tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64251541158888767782024-03-18T11:50:58.205-07:00PetersPenguinPostpeterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.comBlogger143125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-12402191368430397682018-04-07T10:28:00.001-07:002018-04-07T10:28:21.147-07:00Pebble Island in winter - Beach LandingHaving just posted "Road Trip Finale" yesterday, saying it was my last penguin post, I realised I have a few unfinished posts which had suffered from the fact that I am not a "completer/finisher" type of person.<br />
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So, here are a few photos from a midwinter trip last year to Pebble Island. It was snowing in Stanley when we took off, but brilliant sunshine on Pebble. Much to our surprise the pilot decided to land on the 4-mile beach, something we'd always wanted to experience.<br />
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The islands's residents act as a ground crew, with mobile fire-fighting kit and wind sock.<br />
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Unfortunately, the pilot decided to land about 500 metres from where they were waiting, so they had to race down the beach to greet us.<br />
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Afterwards, we explored the island, climbed a hill; got caught in a small snow shower; and experienced frozen pipes for the first time in decades.<br />
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A great place to visit at any time of year.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowy Stanley airport</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freight</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley harbour</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow lying in the trenches dug by the deminers. In other words, former minefields outside Stanley.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main road traversing a huge stone run</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not snow, but sand!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ground crew approach</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival lounge, Pebble Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dot the Dispatcher</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wind sock on a sled.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taxi!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gunning it down the runway</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Takeoff</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fence posts!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impressionist Oystercatchers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowy Sheathbill, Antarctic resident</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The SAS blew up 13 planes during a raid in 1982</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lichen grows on aluminium</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen ground is covered safely with nordic walking poles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not just sheep</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airstrip, but waterlogged, so we used the beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HMS Coventry memorial</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shelter from the snow</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West to Saunders Island, Keppel and more.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west from a World War 2 observation post. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking east to the settlement</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easy navigation</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our transport back to Stanley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen sea</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley runway</td></tr>
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Hope you enjoyed these,<br />
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Peter<br />
April 2018peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-32266666445282533742018-04-06T06:17:00.000-07:002018-04-06T06:17:47.522-07:00Road trip finaleIf you've been following this blog, you'll know my wife and I moved to the Falkland Islands in January 2012. If you've not been following this blog, why not? :-)<br />
Anyway, if you've just arrived you have some catching up to do, but this is probably the last posting, so no need to rush.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darwin settlement with Mt Usborne in the distance</td></tr>
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In January 2017, I suffered a sudden retina detachment, my third in the 6 years here, and despite being rushed to an eye clinic in Oxford, it still takes a long time to travel 8,000 miles. A long time with not much to distract one. I was, and always will be, deeply grateful and appreciative for the treatment and care I received both in Stanley and Oxford, and for the Ministry of Defence flight to RAF Brize Norton which saved my sight.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off road driving can damage your car. Mt Usborne</td></tr>
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But, it's not an experience I would wish to repeat, and so we decided reluctantly that when my wife's contract completed in 2018, we would not renew and stay on in the Falklands, despite our deep affection of the place and its people. When my detachment was diagnosed, I was put on a flight north, which luckily was leaving the next day. It arrived in Oxford the day after, and I was operated on within hours of landing. I simply don't believe I would be so lucky again.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing stone runs can be tiring</td></tr>
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Before we leave later this month, we have a lot to do, but one thing we wanted to do was to visit various places on West Falklands.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pet sheep, Darwin</td></tr>
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En route, we stopped at Darwin House, a favourite and very comfortable lodge about 60 miles from Stanley, and handy for the ferry, about 30 miles further.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goose Green hare, ears down.</td></tr>
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We tried to walk up Mt Usborne, the highest hill in the Falklands. But after slogging up the slopes through the ankle-grabbing white grass, and knee-turning stone runs, the weather closed in and cloud shrouded the summit. So, so we trundled down the hill again. Better safe, than having to call out air-sea rescue teams.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Falkland Islanders are renowned for their re-cycling skills. Here a bus converts to bijou accommodation....</td></tr>
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Darwin, named after Charles Darwin, who visited in 1833, is about a mile from Goose Green. Both were fought over in the first battle of the 1982 war. There are memorials to those killed from the Parachute regiment, including Col. H Jones VC, their Commanding Officer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goose Green</td></tr>
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There is also an Argentine military cemetery nearby, which received about 200 relatives of Argentine war dead on March 26. This event was widely covered by the media, as some 90 previously unidentified occupants of graves had recently been identified by DNA testing, and their relatives given the opportunity of seeing their relative's grave for the first time. Plaques saying "An Argentine soldier known only to God" were replaced with the soldiers' name.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reversing the red car onto the ferry tested my manoeuvring skills!</td></tr>
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So, after fond farewells to the hospitable hosts of Darwin House, we headed for the ferry to West Falklands, along a road which is, apparently, outside the scope of the road traffic legislation, as are the roads of West Falklands. A strange feeling to know that a drunken, speeding, uninsured motorist could crash into me, and he wouldn't have broken any law! To suggest this needs to be sorted out is an understatement.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SDNR6zcPUek/WsIYUVKbHzI/AAAAAAAAcTQ/rxuNY7CMmj4DiW8JcHl_IUPx8A4_n6j5ACLcBGAs/s1600/P1130768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SDNR6zcPUek/WsIYUVKbHzI/AAAAAAAAcTQ/rxuNY7CMmj4DiW8JcHl_IUPx8A4_n6j5ACLcBGAs/s320/P1130768.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Possible Sei whale seen from the Concordia Bay ferry to East Falkland. Saw lots of "blows".</td></tr>
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Fortunately, we survived the roads and enjoyed a wildlife cruise on board the utilitarian ferry, Concordia Bay. We must have seen about 20 whales blowing during the 90 minutes crossing. There were also dozens of dolphins and seabirds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FckQfU67M34/WsIYU5868AI/AAAAAAAAcTU/d3eKQz18uDEh3PoHztV6bExxJHnrSJwGQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1130818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FckQfU67M34/WsIYU5868AI/AAAAAAAAcTU/d3eKQz18uDEh3PoHztV6bExxJHnrSJwGQCLcBGAs/s320/P1130818.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slight hollow gets us out of the wind while we have a picnic...Yes, that's a sheep skeleton.</td></tr>
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Our first stop on the West was Fox Bay West, closely followed by Fox Bay East. They are about 3 miles apart, but due to convoluted booking arrangements, we couldn't stay 2 consecutive nights in either. Not a problem as we received great accommodation in both and enjoyed the landscape and wildlife.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-azYox_b1Er8/WsIYWkziUYI/AAAAAAAAcTY/dlMBpaqx818aN4U5a5DwDM3VE8OKtgEWACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-azYox_b1Er8/WsIYWkziUYI/AAAAAAAAcTY/dlMBpaqx818aN4U5a5DwDM3VE8OKtgEWACLcBGAs/s320/P1140023.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay - We watched the dedicated Zimbabwean deminers working here. It shouldn't be long till the Falklands is mine free.</td></tr>
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We were soon continuing our trip on new, to us, roads. No traffic to speak of until I noticed 3 large trucks in my mirror, carting loads of stone for repairing the road we were about to dive along.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d5hTOhFzxvU/WsIYXCoSzrI/AAAAAAAAcTc/eXcnrCeLAegiBavvieRjND_E0qgnmOkbQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d5hTOhFzxvU/WsIYXCoSzrI/AAAAAAAAcTc/eXcnrCeLAegiBavvieRjND_E0qgnmOkbQCLcBGAs/s320/P1140057.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to Port Stephens. Looks empty....</td></tr>
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Pulling over to let them pass, we slowly meandered south to the settlement of Port Stephens. The human population is about 4, although we had just missed a huge wedding with 99 guests. It must have been a wonderful, traditional occasion if the decorations in the shearing shed were anything to go by!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hE2mf_X2gA8/WsIYXYLpUTI/AAAAAAAAcTg/r7CagJuMoQkOcUnHUgFhQCkiGUNxyeWjgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hE2mf_X2gA8/WsIYXYLpUTI/AAAAAAAAcTg/r7CagJuMoQkOcUnHUgFhQCkiGUNxyeWjgCLcBGAs/s320/P1140059.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With about 50,000 acres to roam in, you'd think the sheep could find somewhere a little less annoying to congregate!</td></tr>
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The landscape around Port Stephens is hilly and coastal, so we were soon out and about following Land Rover tracks up the rounded hills. We didn't see many sheep, more Aberdeen Angus steers and penguins.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gIv-BmPmqrU/WsIYYQ5ZqpI/AAAAAAAAcTk/p8jh0hz_Nx40pZzAiP17-rSgphjTd8QDQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gIv-BmPmqrU/WsIYYQ5ZqpI/AAAAAAAAcTk/p8jh0hz_Nx40pZzAiP17-rSgphjTd8QDQCLcBGAs/s320/P1140089.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Curious cattle</td></tr>
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One day, we set out with a gale behind us to walk to Indian Village about 4 miles away across the bay. From a distance, the eroded rock protrusions vaguely resemble North American teepees. The walk was worth it to see those sculptures close up, but we still had to walk back into the teeth of a gale. Certainly, it blew away the cobwebs that day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xtVFsVNKzdo/WsIYZsOpX9I/AAAAAAAAcTo/CP4XyvaCUqASDLt65YAxX2tBkjqbEx-zgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xtVFsVNKzdo/WsIYZsOpX9I/AAAAAAAAcTo/CP4XyvaCUqASDLt65YAxX2tBkjqbEx-zgCLcBGAs/s320/P1140119.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good drying day!</td></tr>
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Also near the settlement is a large beach with thousands of penguins. They were mostly Gentoos, with a couple of King penguins mingling in their midst. There were also supposed to be Rockhopper penguins on the next beach, but as the walk entailed negotiating steep cliffs in a gale, and the birds may well have migrated away, we resisted finding those guys.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ncUfWTk_4SE/WsIYaAt9eqI/AAAAAAAAcTs/fKj5z8Ple3cpcxXW6GpDZgOPzUGAFVIRgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ncUfWTk_4SE/WsIYaAt9eqI/AAAAAAAAcTs/fKj5z8Ple3cpcxXW6GpDZgOPzUGAFVIRgCLcBGAs/s320/P1140157.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A couple of King Penguins mingle with the hundreds of Gentoos</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JprSXHskMzo/WsIYbhgEe9I/AAAAAAAAcTw/7rSY1tijxeU6KaCqKUzjdR4st54ZOTWkACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JprSXHskMzo/WsIYbhgEe9I/AAAAAAAAcTw/7rSY1tijxeU6KaCqKUzjdR4st54ZOTWkACLcBGAs/s320/P1140198.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wind-blasted rocks, Port Stephens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zB0YSARk29c/WsIYbgLQbtI/AAAAAAAAcT0/pRH-8v_wcvIImpE6hdT3hhmhwFqr3sklACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zB0YSARk29c/WsIYbgLQbtI/AAAAAAAAcT0/pRH-8v_wcvIImpE6hdT3hhmhwFqr3sklACLcBGAs/s320/P1140231.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prime beef on the horizon</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dW2yJijsCIg/WsIcew62LzI/AAAAAAAAcUY/O7IMCzi8b_8sLiB0APoy4kUFJbJuEMuGQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dW2yJijsCIg/WsIcew62LzI/AAAAAAAAcUY/O7IMCzi8b_8sLiB0APoy4kUFJbJuEMuGQCLcBGAs/s320/P1140245.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inquisitive Striated Caracara. Very rare and annoying raptor.</td></tr>
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The scenery was breathtaking, although we were disappointed not to quite make to it the spectacular headland of Calm Head. In taking an easy upward track out of the settlement, I hadn't realised that that meant a rather undulating route later on. So we opted for a distant view, and headed to the penguin beach, via some more amazing rock sculptures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uutKF6zKLxA/WsIcfP3nrzI/AAAAAAAAcUc/HegQ43_aADsj48Q3Cyt0uC-nLSkIqcWEACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uutKF6zKLxA/WsIcfP3nrzI/AAAAAAAAcUc/HegQ43_aADsj48Q3Cyt0uC-nLSkIqcWEACLcBGAs/s320/P1140256.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calm Head(s)</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IN333SUnJuo/WsIcesgaFjI/AAAAAAAAcUU/R5PZkurLCdocdvwr7-tISeyXHRhB83zQACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="201" data-original-width="800" height="160" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IN333SUnJuo/WsIcesgaFjI/AAAAAAAAcUU/R5PZkurLCdocdvwr7-tISeyXHRhB83zQACLcBGAs/s640/P1140261.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking south, from Indian Village (left) to Calm Head (right)</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RtxdXMVm1zM/WsIcgyjcFAI/AAAAAAAAcUg/DKpowgOJ0TAwK-em0FeG1QXjTP1BhY8yACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RtxdXMVm1zM/WsIcgyjcFAI/AAAAAAAAcUg/DKpowgOJ0TAwK-em0FeG1QXjTP1BhY8yACLcBGAs/s320/P1140263.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stephens Peak</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dC22P7VkI38/WsIciYUsSXI/AAAAAAAAcUk/MwtCdraKnMsroxcZfsfHi_Qx7K3pPwmWQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dC22P7VkI38/WsIciYUsSXI/AAAAAAAAcUk/MwtCdraKnMsroxcZfsfHi_Qx7K3pPwmWQCLcBGAs/s320/P1140267.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sphinx?</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F_trdpJcH7M/WsIciZhLw0I/AAAAAAAAcUo/m0DKzpdAu20tMccnH3siwk9-JkUl_stDgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F_trdpJcH7M/WsIciZhLw0I/AAAAAAAAcUo/m0DKzpdAu20tMccnH3siwk9-JkUl_stDgCLcBGAs/s320/P1140269.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calm Head</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mOfyfXvP8ro/WsIci_KchDI/AAAAAAAAcUs/LgGW6OYZr6EBL4BDqlzDfz_w7tMK95kNwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mOfyfXvP8ro/WsIci_KchDI/AAAAAAAAcUs/LgGW6OYZr6EBL4BDqlzDfz_w7tMK95kNwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140291.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourists blocking the view...</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yhovctaj5nI/WsIclaWxumI/AAAAAAAAcUw/sZwVmeMlLEQ-NpTCbb4lXxEiVg4ORXyVwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yhovctaj5nI/WsIclaWxumI/AAAAAAAAcUw/sZwVmeMlLEQ-NpTCbb4lXxEiVg4ORXyVwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140293.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beach has thousands of penguins already ashore and hundreds more at sea waiting to join them.</td></tr>
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Down at the beach, we noticed 3 people at the other end, so we settled down at "our" end to watch the penguins arriving home after a hard day's fishing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hta0q6HjPnc/WsIclwSyu3I/AAAAAAAAcU0/yvPwkEYU3hckp5ZokIE3T7T3UISaIJZPgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hta0q6HjPnc/WsIclwSyu3I/AAAAAAAAcU0/yvPwkEYU3hckp5ZokIE3T7T3UISaIJZPgCLcBGAs/s320/P1140300.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguins porpoising purposefully, propelling themselves to safety.</td></tr>
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Within minutes, we noticed a patrolling sealion, who was obviously also waiting for returning penguins. He would come up for a breath every couple of minutes or so, but mostly he stayed in the shallows, and waited until the penguins were on top of him before attacking.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PTQ7HsC7Ras/WsIcl-o4ChI/AAAAAAAAcU4/21Ba5Dfs5qcprCQxdvpmxSP2pSjsEjq6wCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PTQ7HsC7Ras/WsIcl-o4ChI/AAAAAAAAcU4/21Ba5Dfs5qcprCQxdvpmxSP2pSjsEjq6wCLcBGAs/s320/P1140301.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bull sealion awaiting penguins</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TAyPtyyXvNc/WsIcnyWLE2I/AAAAAAAAcU8/aZM7g-LrttE9Hn0TNyqWG958JnFMyJ2oQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TAyPtyyXvNc/WsIcnyWLE2I/AAAAAAAAcU8/aZM7g-LrttE9Hn0TNyqWG958JnFMyJ2oQCLcBGAs/s320/P1140322.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dark shape is Mr Sealion....</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hy1Ytxeg80Y/WsIcpPTsYrI/AAAAAAAAcVA/WFxFRcyb610MLDDqvbhQvBmLMcLd65PtwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hy1Ytxeg80Y/WsIcpPTsYrI/AAAAAAAAcVA/WFxFRcyb610MLDDqvbhQvBmLMcLd65PtwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140326.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Landfall!</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KmleKXuK2Us/WsIcpI3LD_I/AAAAAAAAcVE/xvSNV8yYfHAurHseJgRSkmqMhV9K2dRXwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KmleKXuK2Us/WsIcpI3LD_I/AAAAAAAAcVE/xvSNV8yYfHAurHseJgRSkmqMhV9K2dRXwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140336.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running for safety</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sKu8dyPd8iw/WsIcp7bTprI/AAAAAAAAcVI/MWKwZjWbYYYwyuQe9OFsK5vEkz4_xp9zwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sKu8dyPd8iw/WsIcp7bTprI/AAAAAAAAcVI/MWKwZjWbYYYwyuQe9OFsK5vEkz4_xp9zwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140342.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acting nonchalant! Look BEHIND you!</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHvrPD59dvA/WsIcrTSYx9I/AAAAAAAAcVM/I2oxcylSlS8uoUiOJfPx53LEQ0rzUe02ACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHvrPD59dvA/WsIcrTSYx9I/AAAAAAAAcVM/I2oxcylSlS8uoUiOJfPx53LEQ0rzUe02ACLcBGAs/s320/P1140345.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's a penguin in the sealion's mouth, and I don't think it's getting mouth to mouth resuscitation...</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6UXMSC3oYOc/WsIcsM4gKjI/AAAAAAAAcVQ/vuoVZfe43WwR3qUFWwS7pE90KqL5z1TpwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6UXMSC3oYOc/WsIcsM4gKjI/AAAAAAAAcVQ/vuoVZfe43WwR3qUFWwS7pE90KqL5z1TpwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140350.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petrels arrive for a piece of the penguin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FmLwPjQBYIg/WsIcs2UMP8I/AAAAAAAAcVU/_m3z8xj9IKoqGDYt7ZGA-qSUDGkifHyYACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FmLwPjQBYIg/WsIcs2UMP8I/AAAAAAAAcVU/_m3z8xj9IKoqGDYt7ZGA-qSUDGkifHyYACLcBGAs/s640/P1140357.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hundreds arrive while the sealion is distracted</td></tr>
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All too soon, we had to leave the penguins and Port Stephens, and negotiate the roads....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bQrr9dOh4HE/WsIctqSuLEI/AAAAAAAAcVY/CAQwrOO2n8QME4MpjL8inRpt1as2oZqbwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bQrr9dOh4HE/WsIctqSuLEI/AAAAAAAAcVY/CAQwrOO2n8QME4MpjL8inRpt1as2oZqbwCLcBGAs/s320/P1140388.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road repairs, West Falklands</td></tr>
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No need for contra-flow systems - simply drive off the road and around the blockage!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FRcJzRNVHjQ/WsIcuT8uzQI/AAAAAAAAcVc/DpL5gcw0_oQJe_4hZtmUWCbQ62P5BeC5wCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FRcJzRNVHjQ/WsIcuT8uzQI/AAAAAAAAcVc/DpL5gcw0_oQJe_4hZtmUWCbQ62P5BeC5wCLcBGAs/s320/P1140446.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Commerson's dolphin while waiting for the ferry to East Falkland</td></tr>
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Waiting for the east-bound ferry at Port Howard we could watch the dolphins doing what dolphins do - feeding, mooching, acrobatics, etc<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WY_0SWt4AdI/WsIcvfNp4HI/AAAAAAAAcVg/9rDdgDA95TEJ7gg2uX0IC7hd93520xNUQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1140453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WY_0SWt4AdI/WsIcvfNp4HI/AAAAAAAAcVg/9rDdgDA95TEJ7gg2uX0IC7hd93520xNUQCLcBGAs/s320/P1140453.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolphins enjoy company.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bv9C868P9dY/WsIcwukutGI/AAAAAAAAcVk/94AtiEzaARgu71z8MHbBZDL0p4J2wdNnACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bv9C868P9dY/WsIcwukutGI/AAAAAAAAcVk/94AtiEzaARgu71z8MHbBZDL0p4J2wdNnACLcBGAs/s320/P1140480.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the West</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wjq74Foh9Mk/WsIcwxTtrxI/AAAAAAAAcVo/SEUAVediQmwBSJqX7Orwx98gUFWnsAcwACLcBGAs/s1600/P1140483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wjq74Foh9Mk/WsIcwxTtrxI/AAAAAAAAcVo/SEUAVediQmwBSJqX7Orwx98gUFWnsAcwACLcBGAs/s320/P1140483.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot an albatross during the crossing.</td></tr>
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It was an exhilarating end to a wonderful trip. We hadn't covered many miles, but those we did were largely devoid of traffic or human habitation. Where settlements were found, we also enjoyed warm welcomes, not to mention teaberry buns. Thanks to everyone who has made this a special trip.<br />
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Adios. Sayonara. See ya. Adieu. Auf Weidersehen. Ciao. So long and thanks for all the fish. xx<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-22065560846284892492017-11-26T17:43:00.002-08:002017-11-26T17:43:45.273-08:00Falklands fauna with family!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
[Another occasional instalment of our life in the South Atlantic, on the Falkland Islands. Last week, we were hosting my brother and sister-in-law (J&M for short). (My multi-talented wife took some of the photos below).]</div>
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We tried to show our guests some of the wildlife the Falklands has to offer. With the excellent service from the government-run air service, FIGAS, we hopped between a few islands and Stanley, and enjoyed the tremendous hospitality of local lodge owners and managers, and the expert advice of the local guides. Most of the pics were taken on Sea Lion Island, where walking is superb due to its compact size.<br />
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On Pebble Island, Josh, our expert guide, took us off-road. All the better to see the black-necked swans... in the distance....<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aTnvxA-ia-4/WhtcjbjTIQI/AAAAAAAAb_c/Vq1QkB-W7DsfLwWbfFNNRZF-UqbaUnt3wCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100703.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aTnvxA-ia-4/WhtcjbjTIQI/AAAAAAAAb_c/Vq1QkB-W7DsfLwWbfFNNRZF-UqbaUnt3wCLcBGAs/s320/P1100703.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IQ-2soV873E/WhsV9epMkAI/AAAAAAAAb8s/uLDfqUfTlFIj5TJTBkP-z4gMwknBsLjGACLcBGAs/s1600/P1050435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IQ-2soV873E/WhsV9epMkAI/AAAAAAAAb8s/uLDfqUfTlFIj5TJTBkP-z4gMwknBsLjGACLcBGAs/s320/P1050435.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gentoo penguins coming over the hill on Pebble Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VJ_JImh53d8/WhsV9QAwz0I/AAAAAAAAb8o/wm0SDPMtaE48N1wxZWSdQasYpDVaZVGkACLcBGAs/s1600/P1050454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VJ_JImh53d8/WhsV9QAwz0I/AAAAAAAAb8o/wm0SDPMtaE48N1wxZWSdQasYpDVaZVGkACLcBGAs/s320/P1050454.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bull and female sealions, Pebble I.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-95EUdoIttuM/WhtcB-3yd6I/AAAAAAAAb_Y/59W5ECTQ39E60QTkztTLYFvspCnLMgxOwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-95EUdoIttuM/WhtcB-3yd6I/AAAAAAAAb_Y/59W5ECTQ39E60QTkztTLYFvspCnLMgxOwCLcBGAs/s320/P1100723.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">"You can see the albatross from up here, but it is windy!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5dRFGL87L-E/WhtcBRpxLBI/AAAAAAAAb_Q/nKCIF0QesREuo4fysv9QKtyvNlnCrZTcQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5dRFGL87L-E/WhtcBRpxLBI/AAAAAAAAb_Q/nKCIF0QesREuo4fysv9QKtyvNlnCrZTcQCLcBGAs/s320/P1100771.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nordic Walkers on the 4-mile beach on Pebble Island.</td></tr>
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After a couple of days exploring Pebble Island, we transferred in 30-knot winds to Sea Lion Island......A Nature Reserve with a purpose-built tourism lodge....and wildlife on the doorstep!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I-ToENdQEBo/WhsWADZhaZI/AAAAAAAAb84/J_HaxpRPslQEToFrhC3wvVUfX5Uxp8vigCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I-ToENdQEBo/WhsWADZhaZI/AAAAAAAAb84/J_HaxpRPslQEToFrhC3wvVUfX5Uxp8vigCLcBGAs/s320/P1100852.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea Lion Lodge is now under new management</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-llkoVJbDRB4/WhsV_2DxWCI/AAAAAAAAb80/PoeSsmqQFzA1JWgSxAzBRx-kQ6alczJsgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-llkoVJbDRB4/WhsV_2DxWCI/AAAAAAAAb80/PoeSsmqQFzA1JWgSxAzBRx-kQ6alczJsgCLcBGAs/s320/P1100888.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were giants on the beach - 3000 kgs of elephant seal. Lodge in the distance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MuSH84gCPfE/WhsWBxRyiHI/AAAAAAAAb88/50vrMhtC6aYfhB-iBv-gGHfnJr4s1ydBQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MuSH84gCPfE/WhsWBxRyiHI/AAAAAAAAb88/50vrMhtC6aYfhB-iBv-gGHfnJr4s1ydBQCLcBGAs/s320/P1100899.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About 700 pups have been born this year, and there were only 2 still suckling, before Mum disappears into the ocean...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QysX5AZM_2o/WhsXNR5MFlI/AAAAAAAAb-g/yh128RS8Iw8DnECYqbPOenu0pjHnqjRGACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QysX5AZM_2o/WhsXNR5MFlI/AAAAAAAAb-g/yh128RS8Iw8DnECYqbPOenu0pjHnqjRGACLcBGAs/s320/P1110199.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magellanic Oystercatcher</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_xjhS5cij0k/WhsWDMg3KlI/AAAAAAAAb9A/JA9N6u3Kiggnmn82uam5a_WyeA3d3px6QCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_xjhS5cij0k/WhsWDMg3KlI/AAAAAAAAb9A/JA9N6u3Kiggnmn82uam5a_WyeA3d3px6QCLcBGAs/s320/P1100976.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Kelp goose (female - the males are all white), protecting her gosling</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f19BW1cA0bA/WhsWDfM1wUI/AAAAAAAAb9E/DFkPVXNWEps9saxcAkIEHmpI03j2Ykc6QCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f19BW1cA0bA/WhsWDfM1wUI/AAAAAAAAb9E/DFkPVXNWEps9saxcAkIEHmpI03j2Ykc6QCLcBGAs/s320/P1100986.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A film crew struggling to film in the wild weather</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aYJ_evvPqNA/WhsWELMklTI/AAAAAAAAb9I/uWBnP5HkrxkrxHyw0T8tBHtEL0zQh3hYACLcBGAs/s1600/P1100991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aYJ_evvPqNA/WhsWELMklTI/AAAAAAAAb9I/uWBnP5HkrxkrxHyw0T8tBHtEL0zQh3hYACLcBGAs/s320/P1100991.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Look into my eyes!" </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5M8QBiAOHuo/WhsWFiwSFxI/AAAAAAAAb9M/njJ7oYFciYoThSiol4kVPq9M9oOxCRO_wCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5M8QBiAOHuo/WhsWFiwSFxI/AAAAAAAAb9M/njJ7oYFciYoThSiol4kVPq9M9oOxCRO_wCLcBGAs/s320/P1110039.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magellanic snipe</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L4hGFUNKu6Q/WhtcB8m5o5I/AAAAAAAAb_U/Z5sCjscQwncEXhxtiPp_cGvG-NGvnMs7QCLcBGAs/s1600/P1050549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L4hGFUNKu6Q/WhtcB8m5o5I/AAAAAAAAb_U/Z5sCjscQwncEXhxtiPp_cGvG-NGvnMs7QCLcBGAs/s320/P1050549.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Snipe are sheltering behind the light grey bush...Does this make me a sniper?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_ArXB38qRGg/WhsWGYEZgEI/AAAAAAAAb9Q/WkwyfNZ7DNoAenI1Pu3NJNiTQDERv8YIACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_ArXB38qRGg/WhsWGYEZgEI/AAAAAAAAb9Q/WkwyfNZ7DNoAenI1Pu3NJNiTQDERv8YIACLcBGAs/s320/P1110063.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snipes?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XGYyDKPpZPY/WhsWG9Mu32I/AAAAAAAAb9U/uCbg5LUgH28oOptfBrJGfe1yd2npLnMDACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XGYyDKPpZPY/WhsWG9Mu32I/AAAAAAAAb9U/uCbg5LUgH28oOptfBrJGfe1yd2npLnMDACLcBGAs/s320/P1110065.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yay!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MeUh_RbYuME/WhsWHnXdjoI/AAAAAAAAb9Y/T0ndii_hKqUoPdebFYVp2JmQbovJyz2JgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MeUh_RbYuME/WhsWHnXdjoI/AAAAAAAAb9Y/T0ndii_hKqUoPdebFYVp2JmQbovJyz2JgCLcBGAs/s320/P1110100.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striated caracara (Johnny Rook) at the HMS Sheffield memorial</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7PAv4FLHJlg/WhsXHoFFwBI/AAAAAAAAb-I/4OlDrjf1wXcUcFyjWtqZNSWd3HtfYjuXACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7PAv4FLHJlg/WhsXHoFFwBI/AAAAAAAAb-I/4OlDrjf1wXcUcFyjWtqZNSWd3HtfYjuXACLcBGAs/s320/P1110098.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memorial to men killed on HMS Sheffield, sunk off Sea Lion Island during the 1982 Falklands War by an Exocet missile.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CiZbm1bt5co/WhsWIpealOI/AAAAAAAAb9c/tZ7bYG43SQUxYLRXiEd7W2M8g85fR2xGwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CiZbm1bt5co/WhsWIpealOI/AAAAAAAAb9c/tZ7bYG43SQUxYLRXiEd7W2M8g85fR2xGwCLcBGAs/s320/P1110116.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">J pointing out where the Rockhoppers climb up the cliff.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zjo2yb8bZLY/WhsV_Z_q0HI/AAAAAAAAb8w/AubITbV92Ucml5k90O82CAPkMtFWO-GDQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1050630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zjo2yb8bZLY/WhsV_Z_q0HI/AAAAAAAAb8w/AubITbV92Ucml5k90O82CAPkMtFWO-GDQCLcBGAs/s320/P1050630.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rockhopper feet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5Kak8W1Ie68/WhsXBGNwu4I/AAAAAAAAb9o/efnupVYJaSc1mVkM7RL7pvMZjKJvI_AmgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1050600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5Kak8W1Ie68/WhsXBGNwu4I/AAAAAAAAb9o/efnupVYJaSc1mVkM7RL7pvMZjKJvI_AmgCLcBGAs/s320/P1050600.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cliff top colonies protect the penguins, but we could feel the spray from the waves even up here. A few years ago, a storm decimated the penguins.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JgZbwD--I24/WhsXAUO9eqI/AAAAAAAAb9k/tjN5RjXx_uM5Dxg-yCOVrWtWc2BEcxF3ACLcBGAs/s1600/P1050642.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JgZbwD--I24/WhsXAUO9eqI/AAAAAAAAb9k/tjN5RjXx_uM5Dxg-yCOVrWtWc2BEcxF3ACLcBGAs/s320/P1050642.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a calm day, but the gale from the day before left the sea boiling</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rXV_MbClHMk/WhtmYMHANuI/AAAAAAAAcAI/bm30fXGNRrclvQavALtlSiBels4F9_xJgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rXV_MbClHMk/WhtmYMHANuI/AAAAAAAAcAI/bm30fXGNRrclvQavALtlSiBels4F9_xJgCLcBGAs/s640/P1110108.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can't work out how they climb 40 metres of sheer,wet cliff...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yF9nNAcX76Y/WhsXBLYqqYI/AAAAAAAAb9s/GchQjP6AzsgisZGnmAvJ58eSz2FsGJsoACLcBGAs/s1600/P1050655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yF9nNAcX76Y/WhsXBLYqqYI/AAAAAAAAb9s/GchQjP6AzsgisZGnmAvJ58eSz2FsGJsoACLcBGAs/s320/P1050655.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;">
As if the weather wasn't bad enough, predators are always around. The Striated Caracara is fearless and intelligent. This one stole the egg from a pair of shags, one sitting on the egg!</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hfVvdmht4N0/WhsXKKiDktI/AAAAAAAAb-M/cNNRUCv6IVsXCpacQwoxPQPbouOoiVkNACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hfVvdmht4N0/WhsXKKiDktI/AAAAAAAAb-M/cNNRUCv6IVsXCpacQwoxPQPbouOoiVkNACLcBGAs/s320/P1110148.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjeMJRo_FD8/WhsXKGGbGEI/AAAAAAAAb-Q/sT8c9ACQRvIASog7xOlkUYNF0lwRAO4cgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjeMJRo_FD8/WhsXKGGbGEI/AAAAAAAAb-Q/sT8c9ACQRvIASog7xOlkUYNF0lwRAO4cgCLcBGAs/s320/P1110150.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now, how to open this meal? Velociraptor, anyone?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4c6E-T0MXhY/WhsXKtQT9TI/AAAAAAAAb-U/A8UzGUkclMImiUEaqhc5ZJ-bSA2oMEfWwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4c6E-T0MXhY/WhsXKtQT9TI/AAAAAAAAb-U/A8UzGUkclMImiUEaqhc5ZJ-bSA2oMEfWwCLcBGAs/s640/P1110152.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reminds me of Jurassic Park.....</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k4WibhoqoF4/WhsXM_A1BsI/AAAAAAAAb-c/2jjz5tux4GYZ5Le3Iy9-kwQTkTcRkD-WQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k4WibhoqoF4/WhsXM_A1BsI/AAAAAAAAb-c/2jjz5tux4GYZ5Le3Iy9-kwQTkTcRkD-WQCLcBGAs/s320/P1110164.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ever alert for a snack, as is the Striated Caracara!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iw0CZTfH0EM/WhsXCqsjXPI/AAAAAAAAb_E/1ZBulPXUEGMo1_5868n9omZh0bSh60qgQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1100932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iw0CZTfH0EM/WhsXCqsjXPI/AAAAAAAAb_E/1ZBulPXUEGMo1_5868n9omZh0bSh60qgQCEwYBhgL/s320/P1100932.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Astro, front, is 20 times heavier than J&M, rear.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-odxxCZQQYaU/WhsXEf0Y2QI/AAAAAAAAb_E/c8vPeov9TGAY16PmR3450yXQPyUuj4IaACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1100940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-odxxCZQQYaU/WhsXEf0Y2QI/AAAAAAAAb_E/c8vPeov9TGAY16PmR3450yXQPyUuj4IaACEwYBhgL/s320/P1100940.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">End of breeding season blues. Better luck next year!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_9k3zICze7w/WhsXFOG0qGI/AAAAAAAAb_E/Pn62Jm3VMaIt8beMCVYCkqUzMJprAMwrACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1100944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_9k3zICze7w/WhsXFOG0qGI/AAAAAAAAb_E/Pn62Jm3VMaIt8beMCVYCkqUzMJprAMwrACEwYBhgL/s320/P1100944.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">A snug corner is much sought after.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WRUH8UlIGt4/WhsXHOXJJpI/AAAAAAAAb-A/NPUHuGiSyz8jFFIDhx-5nXe5qw0Co7oHwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1100945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WRUH8UlIGt4/WhsXHOXJJpI/AAAAAAAAb-A/NPUHuGiSyz8jFFIDhx-5nXe5qw0Co7oHwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1100945.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Happy eles.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xr9uueaiwsU/WhsXHZlHuBI/AAAAAAAAb-E/Sf-uGSJzfoUumqhvTrdSko43kdAJz1ctQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1100949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xr9uueaiwsU/WhsXHZlHuBI/AAAAAAAAb-E/Sf-uGSJzfoUumqhvTrdSko43kdAJz1ctQCEwYBhgL/s320/P1100949.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Dad, Mum and pup. 3000, 800 and 200 kgs, respectively.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ptg3El8KFYs/WhsXMgVvSnI/AAAAAAAAb-Y/BkT_0Q-QB-k_4cj58CftuG2Pyu5GJ1_SACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ptg3El8KFYs/WhsXMgVvSnI/AAAAAAAAb-Y/BkT_0Q-QB-k_4cj58CftuG2Pyu5GJ1_SACLcBGAs/s320/P1110187.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day trips are possible. The airstrip is next to the lodge on Sea Lion island....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUnZqMkJH3w/WhsXP10fYYI/AAAAAAAAb-k/iKEiSOR7cSMhjKBKxM_xIXQU39Sjb2HIgCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUnZqMkJH3w/WhsXP10fYYI/AAAAAAAAb-k/iKEiSOR7cSMhjKBKxM_xIXQU39Sjb2HIgCLcBGAs/s320/P1110200.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balancing lessons on the beach</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EtqInTOHCV8/WhsXQIcw77I/AAAAAAAAb-o/AVlEV5a9kCccL-3zwuxet-a9RTpvz5iogCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EtqInTOHCV8/WhsXQIcw77I/AAAAAAAAb-o/AVlEV5a9kCccL-3zwuxet-a9RTpvz5iogCLcBGAs/s320/P1110205.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just checking the paparazzi aren't waiting on the beach </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeK3sfax1Wo/WhsXQV6qmRI/AAAAAAAAb-s/xb1icVh7NPstapsyxFON4uWhMpoeZ42YACLcBGAs/s1600/P1110216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeK3sfax1Wo/WhsXQV6qmRI/AAAAAAAAb-s/xb1icVh7NPstapsyxFON4uWhMpoeZ42YACLcBGAs/s320/P1110216.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head-high tussac grass can conceal some large residents</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ft6Lwgn-HCI/WhsXS054-qI/AAAAAAAAb-w/gHXwkVqMZbMVz2lz4odzKzYs9wz9F2bkwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ft6Lwgn-HCI/WhsXS054-qI/AAAAAAAAb-w/gHXwkVqMZbMVz2lz4odzKzYs9wz9F2bkwCLcBGAs/s640/P1110228.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 amigos, about 6 weeks old, 200 kgs</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NisDrAjIIEA/WhsXS2-bMtI/AAAAAAAAb-0/xkSKLmao_IkRvfffvfcBHWhYiQp9NBTRwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NisDrAjIIEA/WhsXS2-bMtI/AAAAAAAAb-0/xkSKLmao_IkRvfffvfcBHWhYiQp9NBTRwCLcBGAs/s320/P1110230.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Nvb0E4TJuc/WhsXTX-DszI/AAAAAAAAb-4/MC2vjAcnagE4qI01iUPZ4w4UnuOlx4zGwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Nvb0E4TJuc/WhsXTX-DszI/AAAAAAAAb-4/MC2vjAcnagE4qI01iUPZ4w4UnuOlx4zGwCLcBGAs/s320/P1110232.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beachcombers looking for a vacant deckchair... :-)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UlcYzR-uoCE/WhsXVAaMkCI/AAAAAAAAb-8/zp_93u1qBDUTQH4oarQKch_oqiAH33rawCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UlcYzR-uoCE/WhsXVAaMkCI/AAAAAAAAb-8/zp_93u1qBDUTQH4oarQKch_oqiAH33rawCLcBGAs/s320/P1110234.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No trees on Sea Lion, so grass has to provide shelter in a gale.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v9VxW_hcCAs/WhsXVEkQz2I/AAAAAAAAb_A/apsm6Asa8cUiuTGVMJytY4oE6sW-mILlwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1110253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v9VxW_hcCAs/WhsXVEkQz2I/AAAAAAAAb_A/apsm6Asa8cUiuTGVMJytY4oE6sW-mILlwCLcBGAs/s320/P1110253.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A plane spotter's paradise...100 metres from the Lodge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9TagsP1EIkM/WhtcjUmacdI/AAAAAAAAb_g/2HTMn3dkHZQNLK367ne9I5Bb3wlXOjougCLcBGAs/s1600/P1050661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9TagsP1EIkM/WhtcjUmacdI/AAAAAAAAb_g/2HTMn3dkHZQNLK367ne9I5Bb3wlXOjougCLcBGAs/s320/P1050661.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Despite the wind, J tried his luck at golf. Probably the most southerly golf course in the world! The trick is to keep the ball low into the wind.....!</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, back in Stanley, our garden was being maintained by our friends' sheep, Milo......<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ISNXzllrGFU/WhtcjppeF5I/AAAAAAAAb_k/HnFUkrMc8gc3xgXw8PK9xwcUdKat8Q54gCLcBGAs/s1600/P1100654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ISNXzllrGFU/WhtcjppeF5I/AAAAAAAAb_k/HnFUkrMc8gc3xgXw8PK9xwcUdKat8Q54gCLcBGAs/s320/P1100654.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">M meets Milo, our guest lawn mower.</td></tr>
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Finally, after a week of travelling, I saw a sunrise at Darwin at 5am, so captured it for my guests, who unfortunately didn't see a sunrise or sunset during their visit.....</div>
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However, they did see lots of things to provide memories for years to come!<br />
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<br />
Peter<br />
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peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-84663385940081008342017-08-29T18:33:00.000-07:002017-08-29T18:33:50.159-07:00Arran Adventure<br />
It's been a few months since I posted. Life has been busy in the South Atlantic where I live with my wife, camera and bike. So busy that I couldn't update this blog as regularly as I would have liked. However, I have a few posts in the pipeline, so I hope to publish more soon.<br />
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This first catchup takes me and my wife back to the UK - to the Isle of Arran in Scotland to be precise.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the ferry, heading for Arran (the Sleeping Giant) in Force 8 seas!</td></tr>
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Arran is a favourite island of mine, and I've visited it since childhood, when I was growing up in the southwest of Scotland. I lived in a fairly mundane industrial town on the coast, and could, if it wasn't raining, look across 12 miles of the Firth of Clyde to the mystical "Sleeping Giant" of Arran every day.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This ferry decided to ride out the gale....</td></tr>
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The "Sleeping Giant" nickname comes from its profile, which resembles the face of a giant lying down. Arran's other nickname is "Scotland in Miniature", because it packs the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland into its 20 mile length.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brodick Bay</td></tr>
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In April, we travelled from the Falkland Islands to the UK, and to Arran for a rare break on the island. April and May can sometimes mean good weather, and we certainly were lucky, with 10 consecutive days of sunshine. If you know the west of Scotland, you'll appreciate how lucky we were!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Glen Sannox</td></tr>
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The hills of Arran are a walkers' paradise, with granite mountains rising nearly 3,000 above sea level. The glens and ridges offer endless possibilities, and the chance to catch glimpses of red deer or golden eagles.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low rainfall means easy crossings, North Glen Sannox</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ascending to the ridge, North Glen Sannox</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River crossing</td></tr>
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Arran also has a lot of historical sites, ranging from Neolithic chambered cairns and rings of standing stones, through remnants of Scotland's turbulent medieval history, to the time when sheep replaced people on the land. The people were forcibly evicted ("The Clearances"), and many emigrated to outposts of the British Empire such as Canada, New Zealand, and possibly ending up in the Falklands.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lochchranza Castle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mull of Kintyre ferry, Catriona, arrives at Lochranza</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain clouds sweep down the Mull of Kintyre to Ireland.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "Stavros Niarchos" training ship drops anchor in Lamlash Bay</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rosa Burn, Brodick</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking over Whiting Bay to Holy Isle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tulips in Brodick Castle gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Isle of Arran" with Goat Fell in distance</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Machrie Moor standing stones, with wife and Julie to give it scale!</td></tr>
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Early people may have reached Arran over 5,000 years ago, not long (geologically speaking) after the end of the last Ice Age. They built many forts, and buried their dead in cairns. They also left huge standing stone circles.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King's Cave - where Bruce met the spider!</td></tr>
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Another visitor was Robert the Bruce, before he became king. Legend has it he hid in a cave on Arran from his enemies. As he sat there wondering how long he could continue his struggle, he watched a spider spinning its web. Each time it had almost made a thread between two walls, it broke, making it start again. The resilience of the spider reputedly gave Bruce inspiration, and he eventually won the Kingdom of Scotland.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern Beech, from Chile, in Brodick Castle's Gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another big old tree, Brodick Castle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glen Rosa, a beautiful glaciated glen.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glen Rosa camp site.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laggan Cottage</td></tr>
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Laggan Cottage sits in a remote spot, but there once was a thriving community here, making salt from the seawater, and even mining coal, to sell to buyers on the mainland about 12 miles east.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTgHc04CLKc/WRpAqLcKgGI/AAAAAAAAbMw/KyeiXivLBDwvH7p73OzTP9vDg040RPSggCLcB/s1600/P1060016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTgHc04CLKc/WRpAqLcKgGI/AAAAAAAAbMw/KyeiXivLBDwvH7p73OzTP9vDg040RPSggCLcB/s320/P1060016.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandstone Boulder</td></tr>
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Arran also has huge appeal for geologists. James Hutton, the father of modern geology, found rock formations which did not fit into the existing theories of how old the Earth was. "Huttons Unconformity" can still be found to the north of Arran, where layers of different aged rocks are tangled together.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YXDnvFrnjmY/WRpArFEHP5I/AAAAAAAAbM0/0JqY4wqTTQEH482yn_waeJEFSDUe1XGWwCLcB/s1600/P1060107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YXDnvFrnjmY/WRpArFEHP5I/AAAAAAAAbM0/0JqY4wqTTQEH482yn_waeJEFSDUe1XGWwCLcB/s320/P1060107.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Otter off Kildonan beach</td></tr>
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If you keep your eyes open on Arran, you will almost certainly see deer, and possibly majestic Golden Eagles and rare hen harriers and merlins. In May, you may be lucky enough to hear the evocative cuckoo returning from Africa to breed in remote Scottish glens.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I3DtRe9zHOU/WRpAutUqCNI/AAAAAAAAbM4/2X5QXWgPTrQ_s7kKnRuCKviZqSI50SoOQCLcB/s1600/P1060121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I3DtRe9zHOU/WRpAutUqCNI/AAAAAAAAbM4/2X5QXWgPTrQ_s7kKnRuCKviZqSI50SoOQCLcB/s320/P1060121.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Otter!</td></tr>
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And despite my many visits, and knowing exactly where to find them, I had never seen a wild otter on Arran, until this year. We were walking along a beach in the south with friends, and I optimistically said that otters were sometime spotted on the rock about 100 metres offshore. And, as if summonsed, one appeared and started eating a fish it had caught! Magic! Within minutes we had a crowd of people staring out to sea wondering what we were looking at!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8x2NG1x2U4/WRpAvlXGbdI/AAAAAAAAbM8/cQA1wY5Q42YFByNIkoW2YUkYy6LqOSFAgCLcB/s1600/P1060135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8x2NG1x2U4/WRpAvlXGbdI/AAAAAAAAbM8/cQA1wY5Q42YFByNIkoW2YUkYy6LqOSFAgCLcB/s320/P1060135.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very nice house, belonging to friends</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k9ZrK3rPqQo/WRpAv7Cf6EI/AAAAAAAAbNA/zzWwNR0QeI49Mj4LNhK1mKSWbwjIpYpiQCLcB/s1600/P1060161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k9ZrK3rPqQo/WRpAv7Cf6EI/AAAAAAAAbNA/zzWwNR0QeI49Mj4LNhK1mKSWbwjIpYpiQCLcB/s320/P1060161.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soay sheep, Holy Isle</td></tr>
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In a sheltered bay, which once housed a Viking longboat fleet before it lost the Battle of Largs (1263) and its hold over much of Scotland's western seaboard, lies Holy Isle.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-980ieRqqZdA/WRpAw5c246I/AAAAAAAAbNE/iPrwizTnjSYs1qwpO1CEwfQ0yjgnaE2-ACLcB/s1600/P1060188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-980ieRqqZdA/WRpAw5c246I/AAAAAAAAbNE/iPrwizTnjSYs1qwpO1CEwfQ0yjgnaE2-ACLcB/s320/P1060188.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View north from Holy Isle</td></tr>
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Holy Isle is now a Buddhist retreat where the public can attend training courses or lock themselves away from the outside world.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q2viKqDbIxA/WRpAzSBmWuI/AAAAAAAAbNI/CYtnVEgv-esFxU2UOpUbl1KRDNjn_09FwCLcB/s1600/P1060200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q2viKqDbIxA/WRpAzSBmWuI/AAAAAAAAbNI/CYtnVEgv-esFxU2UOpUbl1KRDNjn_09FwCLcB/s320/P1060200.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pods for individual meditation</td></tr>
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Monks meet daytrippers like ourselves arriving on the small ferry, and explain the ground rules, and what can be seen on the island.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ml67KdOws-k/WRpAz4mrVgI/AAAAAAAAbNM/NY2_AI2Z0OAZ2D2u9qczsrSSRMEoBh7jQCLcB/s1600/P1060227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ml67KdOws-k/WRpAz4mrVgI/AAAAAAAAbNM/NY2_AI2Z0OAZ2D2u9qczsrSSRMEoBh7jQCLcB/s320/P1060227.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eriskay pony and Stephenson lighthouse</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QhgnV9usiXc/WRpA0TPAY_I/AAAAAAAAbNQ/HnrdkBL62YwBPZ1cGfjrvv9FXTsfVonogCLcB/s1600/P1060253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QhgnV9usiXc/WRpA0TPAY_I/AAAAAAAAbNQ/HnrdkBL62YwBPZ1cGfjrvv9FXTsfVonogCLcB/s320/P1060253.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddhist statues.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LIyIPfeC-EI/WRpA2eaxVaI/AAAAAAAAbNU/a3FGbgN7CUEbcKe6PVzjRqq-byAo03aJwCLcB/s1600/P1060267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LIyIPfeC-EI/WRpA2eaxVaI/AAAAAAAAbNU/a3FGbgN7CUEbcKe6PVzjRqq-byAo03aJwCLcB/s320/P1060267.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Russian yacht in Lamlash Bay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sir2nrE1XEI/WRpA46AE5sI/AAAAAAAAbNc/r57YEogPaggsTn0wEsqcSerIGN6jirOHACLcB/s1600/P1060285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sir2nrE1XEI/WRpA46AE5sI/AAAAAAAAbNc/r57YEogPaggsTn0wEsqcSerIGN6jirOHACLcB/s320/P1060285.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seal sunning, Brodick</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zCTu_cDUDV8/WRpA4Q2DF2I/AAAAAAAAbNY/8ziuD3CWiTIIHPyyqJRPRsp6L3iNH6dGQCLcB/s1600/P1060289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zCTu_cDUDV8/WRpA4Q2DF2I/AAAAAAAAbNY/8ziuD3CWiTIIHPyyqJRPRsp6L3iNH6dGQCLcB/s320/P1060289.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Granite boulder, roadside near Sannox</td></tr>
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A 55-mile road hugs the Arran coast and its undulating surface is a true test for the many cyclists who try to complete the circuit in time to catch their ferry back to the mainland!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4iMp6qP6IA/WRpA5-cdaDI/AAAAAAAAbNg/7PlIVgzxedgiy5DkpZvweAsnSa1PTW36gCLcB/s1600/P1060296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4iMp6qP6IA/WRpA5-cdaDI/AAAAAAAAbNg/7PlIVgzxedgiy5DkpZvweAsnSa1PTW36gCLcB/s320/P1060296.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isle of Arran distillery, Lochranza</td></tr>
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But for those who want to sample other delights, Arran is famous for it fresh dairy produce, seafood, venison, beef and lamb, and Arran Mustard! Oh, did I mention the distillery? And the Brewery?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vxqGgjlCQSc/WRpA7P1E9TI/AAAAAAAAbNk/1rYfjBbMuUE4A9xYPjOr29zOcuxzS-3owCLcB/s1600/P1060349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vxqGgjlCQSc/WRpA7P1E9TI/AAAAAAAAbNk/1rYfjBbMuUE4A9xYPjOr29zOcuxzS-3owCLcB/s320/P1060349.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whisky taste guide, Oystercatcher pub, Otter Ferry, Cowal, Argyll.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0yiDGN5Iids/WRpA7so5UlI/AAAAAAAAbNo/zrWGNBEAd5gQz_jvqFFgsME7Zjxc7hhiACLcB/s1600/P1060356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0yiDGN5Iids/WRpA7so5UlI/AAAAAAAAbNo/zrWGNBEAd5gQz_jvqFFgsME7Zjxc7hhiACLcB/s320/P1060356.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down from The Rest and Be Thankful</td></tr>
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All too soon, our adventure was over, and we departed Arran by the small ferry to the Mull of Kintyre. From there, another small ferry transported into the hidden Cowal Peninsula - a large unspoilt area normally bypassed by visitors heading to the better-known Highlands.<br />
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A final stop at the beautiful lochside Oystercatcher pub, and then one of the best views in Scotland - the aptly-named Rest and Be Thankful pass. Indeed, we were Thankful.<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-62480687749257203872017-04-11T16:42:00.000-07:002017-04-13T03:40:07.305-07:00Honeymoon at Volunteer Beach[For new readers....My wife and I moved to the Falkland Islands over 5 years ago, initially for two years. But we have yet to be bored with the opportunities for work or the wildlife. Plus most of the people are very friendly and helpful.]<br />
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This week, we headed to Johnson's Harbour, a massive sheep farm which includes a private nature reserve, about an hour out of Stanley, with two friends on board. At the end of the gravel road, we waited at the tiny settlement of about 4 houses for the Warden to arrive and transport us in his big 4x4 (SUV) to the House, about 12 miles away, over very boggy untamed ground.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgMQFVgJ1-Q/WO1fKbvDULI/AAAAAAAAamQ/x-5nkAMJHH442Ah5cq5ifchN9OPys16vwCLcB/s1600/P1010921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgMQFVgJ1-Q/WO1fKbvDULI/AAAAAAAAamQ/x-5nkAMJHH442Ah5cq5ifchN9OPys16vwCLcB/s320/P1010921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The 12 miles took about 75 minutes to traverse. The main tourist track to the beach was closed due to being too wet, but as the Warden lived at the House, he could use a quiet track which was relatively pristine, as it received little traffic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ozLwgt3qv8/WOqjz5ZvnqI/AAAAAAAAako/DqEsbmjbi2ICHOdjGLKwWr3Pv__QT-DYwCLcB/s1600/P1050253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ozLwgt3qv8/WOqjz5ZvnqI/AAAAAAAAako/DqEsbmjbi2ICHOdjGLKwWr3Pv__QT-DYwCLcB/s320/P1050253.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The track had been closed for 2 weeks, due to being wet!</td></tr>
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One reason it may not have had much traffic during the season, was that it crossed a tidal lagoon. So knowing the local tides was an essential requirement for arriving at the destination.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcyVk1D0-jA/WOqjzKPOYkI/AAAAAAAAakk/Yh4vvYUiTTAG0PV9S4uEgovsqMb-EZUzwCLcB/s1600/P1050255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcyVk1D0-jA/WOqjzKPOYkI/AAAAAAAAakk/Yh4vvYUiTTAG0PV9S4uEgovsqMb-EZUzwCLcB/s320/P1050255.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is not due to rainfall - this is a tidal lagoon. The main track is worse!</td></tr>
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After admiring some skilled driving, we arrived at the House, and quickly got down to the 2-mile long beach to see the main attraction - penguins! It is "PetersPenguinPost", after all!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indecisive King Penguins</td></tr>
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King Penguins are relatively rare in the Falklands, but this was the biggest colony - about 1,000 pairs, plus hundreds of chicks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rpq6ZrHBt3w/WOqkFKm5-8I/AAAAAAAAak4/MDQfAqBTM78TO_ndaM1o6NCIptItUrGDACLcB/s1600/P1050287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rpq6ZrHBt3w/WOqkFKm5-8I/AAAAAAAAak4/MDQfAqBTM78TO_ndaM1o6NCIptItUrGDACLcB/s320/P1050287.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"OK, form a line"</td></tr>
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There are Magellanic and Gentoo penguins, too, but these can be found close to Stanley, and all over the Falklands. The Kings were what we wanted to see. And the huge numbers also attracted predators such as Sea Lions.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lc0zOc-pqcQ/WOqkEAqtyqI/AAAAAAAAak0/oKAeMwDQGrMxNXXcHbfOceAOeazbnEEVQCLcB/s1600/P1050288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lc0zOc-pqcQ/WOqkEAqtyqI/AAAAAAAAak0/oKAeMwDQGrMxNXXcHbfOceAOeazbnEEVQCLcB/s320/P1050288.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Follow me!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-igTWVxNud7U/WOqkUv8jexI/AAAAAAAAalE/gIGVGb8xstceve59qKEPnFh4f-kMax0KACLcB/s1600/P1050296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-igTWVxNud7U/WOqkUv8jexI/AAAAAAAAalE/gIGVGb8xstceve59qKEPnFh4f-kMax0KACLcB/s320/P1050296.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hallo, 'allo, 'allo!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N8o_qMxGU_A/WOqkUKVBXyI/AAAAAAAAak8/UiyCwhCIUb00t3_hN7K3_eH9aG4GgZhLQCLcB/s1600/P1050298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N8o_qMxGU_A/WOqkUKVBXyI/AAAAAAAAak8/UiyCwhCIUb00t3_hN7K3_eH9aG4GgZhLQCLcB/s320/P1050298.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
We watched a line of penguins waddle into the surf, only to emerge moments later at top speed as a dark shape was spotted in the waves!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M1JCZCbjWm4/WOqkUhlTtwI/AAAAAAAAalA/oKCITsbGdMczV2XI0t6rcbNe-p_y7AbWACLcB/s1600/P1050314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M1JCZCbjWm4/WOqkUhlTtwI/AAAAAAAAalA/oKCITsbGdMczV2XI0t6rcbNe-p_y7AbWACLcB/s320/P1050314.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gentoo wins the race!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HT3tQPuQkLg/WOqkh-DaU2I/AAAAAAAAalM/ldc7m8oUqMcIKb8h3fcsmGv9SlOD7ai6QCLcB/s320/P1050316.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh dear...</td></tr>
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As well as watching the wildlife, we had hoped our friends would enjoy their visit. It was a sentimental journey for them, as they had first come here on their honeymoon - 40 years ago!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2JgFFkzZid4/WOqknKjMWAI/AAAAAAAAalQ/DZdyUZYaOawE23M703qQaRTcYsYIJNeHgCLcB/s1600/P1050324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2JgFFkzZid4/WOqknKjMWAI/AAAAAAAAalQ/DZdyUZYaOawE23M703qQaRTcYsYIJNeHgCLcB/s320/P1050324.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-rumped Sandpiper and a 2-banded plover</td></tr>
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<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Bride's Grandparents had given them <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">a flight in a Beaver float plane to take them to a shack at Volunteer Beach. With a bag full of compo rations from the Royal Marine barracks where the Groom was billeted, along with the other Marines in Naval Party 8901, they set off on their honeymoon.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BusAckPPHqg/WOqkeH2xe7I/AAAAAAAAalI/Tzj_B4k1-ngFe9LCrz0z0fKgyRuDpWlgQCLcB/s1600/P1050329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BusAckPPHqg/WOqkeH2xe7I/AAAAAAAAalI/Tzj_B4k1-ngFe9LCrz0z0fKgyRuDpWlgQCLcB/s640/P1050329.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">The float plane landed on the nearby lagoon. As the shack was uninhabited, there was no-one to greet them. So no boat to get them ashore from the float plane in the middle of the tidal lagoon. So the Groom had to give the Bride a piggy-back lift to dry land!</span><span style="color: #222222;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kU5JNxXkGlM/WOqk2w6kyZI/AAAAAAAAalU/MV_x_YStG90EVoqilfG4QDjPmATQg9TPQCLcB/s1600/P1050341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kU5JNxXkGlM/WOqk2w6kyZI/AAAAAAAAalU/MV_x_YStG90EVoqilfG4QDjPmATQg9TPQCLcB/s320/P1050341.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feeding time at the creche</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Not only were there no people at the shack, there was no electricity. "I remember playing cards by candlelight", said the Bride. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">The peat stove was fired up and a Fray Bentos Steak and Kidney pie was heated. Baked beans were warmed for breakfast. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-410NuRbKAKw/WOqk4rhQbhI/AAAAAAAAalY/u_OauKkHMZsWL_7JilNPA2Ae-R3pr9ZdQCLcB/s1600/P1050353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-410NuRbKAKw/WOqk4rhQbhI/AAAAAAAAalY/u_OauKkHMZsWL_7JilNPA2Ae-R3pr9ZdQCLcB/s320/P1050353.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swimming all day makes one tired</td></tr>
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Two days later, they returned to the lagoon to await the plane. There was no phone in 1977, so after hours of waiting they gave up, and guessed, correctly, that the plane was grounded by the strong winds. The same thing happened the next day! Eventually, the plane arrived and rescued them.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More feeding</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JWf6AstA_Ww/WOqlMlzqmfI/AAAAAAAAalg/4ESV1ZDSnL4TiH2l1Ugyt4c78GqCPlGgQCLcB/s1600/P1050374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JWf6AstA_Ww/WOqlMlzqmfI/AAAAAAAAalg/4ESV1ZDSnL4TiH2l1Ugyt4c78GqCPlGgQCLcB/s320/P1050374.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are not allowed inside the white stones.</td></tr>
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Anyway, the 2017 visitors had no need to bring rations - champagne was enough. The Warden and his wife provided superb hospitality in their home, with delicious meals and yummy fresh home baking. Teaberry cheescake is a Falklands delicacy, which I was lucky enough to taste twice on the one day. It is worth the calories!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wyRE24QkxiY/WOqlOndEtZI/AAAAAAAAalk/Z-lIBNS-zGIWEgrGsenbnoW-sMh_1WMZwCLcB/s1600/P1050383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wyRE24QkxiY/WOqlOndEtZI/AAAAAAAAalk/Z-lIBNS-zGIWEgrGsenbnoW-sMh_1WMZwCLcB/s320/P1050383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young one</td></tr>
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However, we did work some of the calories off by long walks along the beach and cliffs. Saw more Sea Lions and peregrine falcons.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f_rVLVIWn8M/WOqlOxDet3I/AAAAAAAAalo/QKEcv9XWnrM9jDp9VDAAzQVrDDMcsViugCLcB/s1600/P1050384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f_rVLVIWn8M/WOqlOxDet3I/AAAAAAAAalo/QKEcv9XWnrM9jDp9VDAAzQVrDDMcsViugCLcB/s320/P1050384.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Leave it!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fCviyL9mjgE/WOqlgo75a4I/AAAAAAAAals/JdC3gKMv8YAdcqCfsBWUt4aIDag_VHUMQCLcB/s1600/P1050415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fCviyL9mjgE/WOqlgo75a4I/AAAAAAAAals/JdC3gKMv8YAdcqCfsBWUt4aIDag_VHUMQCLcB/s320/P1050415.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some people miss all the fun of arrival by the track....</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-weNzCahqlg0/WOqlk0TAA-I/AAAAAAAAal0/-qOqHZrEDLADV7LRZObzhQHessyRdkkKACLcB/s1600/P1050435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-weNzCahqlg0/WOqlk0TAA-I/AAAAAAAAal0/-qOqHZrEDLADV7LRZObzhQHessyRdkkKACLcB/s320/P1050435.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Group beach stroll</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CVRpCOmUr9Y/WOqluLk6STI/AAAAAAAAal4/91I1E5uhE2oK8BUu6yiNJG1_HSZTlQnLgCLcB/s1600/P1050492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CVRpCOmUr9Y/WOqluLk6STI/AAAAAAAAal4/91I1E5uhE2oK8BUu6yiNJG1_HSZTlQnLgCLcB/s640/P1050492.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">House is beside the green trees, right. Volunteer Beach in the centre.</td></tr>
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All too soon, the visit was over, and we enjoyed the swaying ride in the Warden's car over the bumpy countryside. Once again, we felt very, very privileged to have been able to visit one of the best wildlife spots on the planet. But unlike many tourist hotspots, there are no crowds and because Man has only lived here for about 200 years, the wildlife is as curious about us as we are about them.<br />
<br />
More in a few weeks,<br />
Peter<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eqMngTELv8M/WOqlzMZK3QI/AAAAAAAAamA/sznBexE5BlwNLVe-saDNMXfvMvd5W-CcgCLcB/s1600/P1050524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eqMngTELv8M/WOqlzMZK3QI/AAAAAAAAamA/sznBexE5BlwNLVe-saDNMXfvMvd5W-CcgCLcB/s320/P1050524.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea Lions</td></tr>
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peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-911694933776884452017-04-03T18:05:00.000-07:002017-04-03T18:05:02.219-07:00Interviewing a PythonIt's been a wee while, but I have been busy.......<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.penguin-news.com/" target="_blank">http://www.penguin-news.com/</a><br />
<br />
If you go to that site, you'll find my interview with Michael Palin last week. A wonderful man: very humorous, and interesting, and I have been a life-long fan. As I'm often told - I'm a lucky, lucky man!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P7zEOEZ2Y2Y/WOLo2XDgKNI/AAAAAAAAahE/vlHV4EVaUXA73LJ3gOQqJhRw8qMQFB3QgCLcB/s1600/P1050218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P7zEOEZ2Y2Y/WOLo2XDgKNI/AAAAAAAAahE/vlHV4EVaUXA73LJ3gOQqJhRw8qMQFB3QgCLcB/s320/P1050218.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blackish Oystercatcher</td></tr>
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He was in Stanley and the Falklands for a few days to research his new book on the <i>Erebus</i>, a ship that sailed around Antarctica, and to the North-west Passage in the early 19th century.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--VWbZY4eWxI/WOLo7S8R2cI/AAAAAAAAahM/W7BjmB8NoGE8y4S0Q_WGPPgK68t8wAHeACLcB/s1600/P1050210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--VWbZY4eWxI/WOLo7S8R2cI/AAAAAAAAahM/W7BjmB8NoGE8y4S0Q_WGPPgK68t8wAHeACLcB/s320/P1050210.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly Falklands Thrush</td></tr>
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<br />
The ship and its crews had amazing stories to tell. The first voyage found volcanoes on Antarctica, and Captain James Clark Ross named them after his ships, the <i>Erebus </i> and <i>Terror. </i> They also were the first men to see the Ross Ice Shelf, and reach the South Magnetic Pole. The captain of the <i>Terror</i> was a man called Crozier. Both men are remembered in the street names of Stanley - they were instrumental in founding the place!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zyiZzWD9nLE/WOLo67AcXGI/AAAAAAAAahI/Y6fEc5YyErg2tXsvsnH-jHBAGdQiwTvQwCLcB/s1600/P1050212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zyiZzWD9nLE/WOLo67AcXGI/AAAAAAAAahI/Y6fEc5YyErg2tXsvsnH-jHBAGdQiwTvQwCLcB/s320/P1050212.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last penguin to leave for Brazil!</td></tr>
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But it was the second and final voyage, under Sir John Franklin, to find the North Magnetic Pole, which placed the <i>Erebus</i> firmly in the history books. The whole expedition was lost for decades - no sign of it anywhere - until some bones were found in remote north Canada....<br />
<br />
And only a few years ago, the ships themselves were discovered. So, the hunt continues for clues to the mystery of what happened....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B7BM_pGnyQs/WOLsXFek_MI/AAAAAAAAahY/6cjLLkobUZA46XNOujzjQXpKjCvbI-wNACLcB/s1600/P1050123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B7BM_pGnyQs/WOLsXFek_MI/AAAAAAAAahY/6cjLLkobUZA46XNOujzjQXpKjCvbI-wNACLcB/s320/P1050123.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cockleshell Heroes</td></tr>
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<br />
Rather unbelievably, on the same day I was talking to Michael Palin, I also enjoyed listening to former Royal Marine Commando, Mick Dawson tell of his 7,000 mile row across the Pacific with Chris Martin. See "189days.com" for full details. Can you imagine ROWING from London to Buenos Aires?????<br />
<br />
Last week, he was "merely" kayaking 120 miles around the Falklands with Steve Grenham, to raise awareness of his project (Cockleshell Endeavour) to help PTSD sufferers. The two paddlers (both novices) entered Stanley Harbour followed by a pod of dolphins to keep them company. Amazing.<br />
<br />
Please help support these men, without whose sacrifices, the Falklands War and other conflicts would have ended differently.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.cockleshellendeavour.com/" target="_blank">http://www.cockleshellendeavour.com/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.189days.com/" target="_blank">http://www.189days.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Sorry for the break. I'm going for another one soon, but there is plenty to get your teeth into while I'm away,<br />
<br />
Enjoy<br />
Peter<br />
<br />
PS - did you spot the April Fool in the Penguin News?<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-38908882868601393242016-11-06T06:58:00.001-08:002016-11-06T06:58:13.053-08:00Zombie Penguins, Peregrines and Leopards!An occasional slice of life in the south Atlantic. This week I was lucky enough to be treated to a short trip to Volunteer Point - home to several thousand penguins, peregrines and a leopard......<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vy4lETPtG0k/WBnEk9pB5PI/AAAAAAAAVaE/UxP25Rcnxq4AOy6JjfO0Va-qOWYLaYQgQCLcB/s1600/P1010921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vy4lETPtG0k/WBnEk9pB5PI/AAAAAAAAVaE/UxP25Rcnxq4AOy6JjfO0Va-qOWYLaYQgQCLcB/s320/P1010921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
If you had never seen a penguin in the wild before, would you recognise these furry creatures as members of the species??<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y9SGfDs9h9o/WBk0KYA9yGI/AAAAAAAAVWk/nFooh8lea4UFnNcZPVbZuc7n1_LNSL-GwCLcB/s1600/P1020010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y9SGfDs9h9o/WBk0KYA9yGI/AAAAAAAAVWk/nFooh8lea4UFnNcZPVbZuc7n1_LNSL-GwCLcB/s320/P1020010.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping cool at the watering hole</td></tr>
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They are, if you haven't already worked out, chicks of King penguins. The breeding cycle of Kings is quite unusual, in that it doesn't follow an annual cycle. From mating to "leaving the nest" takes about 15 months.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OeY_y2lKuZc/WBk0KYeu4cI/AAAAAAAAVWs/CT0gkIllwicBZ1U6Y160pTEFWdHeopEDACLcB/s1600/P1020023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OeY_y2lKuZc/WBk0KYeu4cI/AAAAAAAAVWs/CT0gkIllwicBZ1U6Y160pTEFWdHeopEDACLcB/s320/P1020023.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Exterminate"</td></tr>
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So, a pair of Kings, can only produce 2 chicks in 3 years.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hvDJ6lR32Mg/WBk0N7vgP_I/AAAAAAAAVW4/KxogU1e1lGYJkRcrr-KqXhPKhFOrq4VnQCLcB/s1600/P1020024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hvDJ6lR32Mg/WBk0N7vgP_I/AAAAAAAAVW4/KxogU1e1lGYJkRcrr-KqXhPKhFOrq4VnQCLcB/s320/P1020024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"EXTERMINATE"</td></tr>
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During their early life, chicks are sometimes guarded by a parent; ot other times, left long spells in a creche while the parents forage far and wide for food.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AuCURhfnyIQ/WBk0NkBBsgI/AAAAAAAAVW0/UrMdw_dBLs8mEQU6lk8mc0nZWBQ4VO8IACLcB/s1600/P1020025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AuCURhfnyIQ/WBk0NkBBsgI/AAAAAAAAVW0/UrMdw_dBLs8mEQU6lk8mc0nZWBQ4VO8IACLcB/s320/P1020025.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">"EXTERMINATE!"</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While most of the parents are away, these fluffy "teenagers" mooch around slowly using up their reserves and trying to keep cool in their fur coats.<br />
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In a few weeks, they will start to moult and lose these first feathers, and produce the oiled adult feathers which enable them to fend for themselves in the sea.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MfSmbvUCJK0/WBk0QxwC6LI/AAAAAAAAVW8/D_EsWaQA55sqUJxJ1HiSi_sFbh5NY7kyACLcB/s1600/P1020032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MfSmbvUCJK0/WBk0QxwC6LI/AAAAAAAAVW8/D_EsWaQA55sqUJxJ1HiSi_sFbh5NY7kyACLcB/s320/P1020032.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
These chicks have had a few problems this winter, with several hundred dying or being killed by predators such as vultures. The parents can swim as far as Antarctica, about 1,000 miles south, looking for food, and can be away for a couple of weeks. While they are gone, the chicks are vulnerable.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Volunteer Point is a private Nature Reserve within a 50,000 acre sheep farm, about 20 miles due north of Stanley, capital of the Falklands. However, to get there, one must drive on the rural roads for over an hour, then drive off-road for another hour.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y66ssv0rOrs/WBk0UhjuU6I/AAAAAAAAVXQ/VCHo08MQtysiYj42hpovFPQYh9ButLpzQCLcB/s1600/P1020041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y66ssv0rOrs/WBk0UhjuU6I/AAAAAAAAVXQ/VCHo08MQtysiYj42hpovFPQYh9ButLpzQCLcB/s320/P1020041.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The creche is for penguins only</td></tr>
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We were picked up at the road end by the resident warden, Derek, who lives near a 2-mile long beach in a shanty. The shanty is an old shepherd's house, but now it is cosy and hospitable, taking 4 guests at a time. We shared the meals with Derek and wife Trudi, but were free to come and go whenever we wished.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jcGn1Gj9qLc/WBk0XrS6u0I/AAAAAAAAVXY/dbyU0_d_qn0WMXNyJTY-0o-ZvrQSOpr7wCLcB/s1600/P1020077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jcGn1Gj9qLc/WBk0XrS6u0I/AAAAAAAAVXY/dbyU0_d_qn0WMXNyJTY-0o-ZvrQSOpr7wCLcB/s320/P1020077.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feeding time</td></tr>
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Outside, a few chicks were being fed......<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pS4u3-rkZSI/WBk0aqMSQTI/AAAAAAAAVXk/GT2yKZ637uE7rxvwWrNisy_uivxGYKtTQCLcB/s1600/P1020078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pS4u3-rkZSI/WBk0aqMSQTI/AAAAAAAAVXk/GT2yKZ637uE7rxvwWrNisy_uivxGYKtTQCLcB/s320/P1020078.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YEGhCrssG3s/WBnEqk_PEYI/AAAAAAAAVak/o7YusfoMOY4ep0zcARCRVBDxG6SxvEjNwCLcB/s1600/P1020084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YEGhCrssG3s/WBnEqk_PEYI/AAAAAAAAVak/o7YusfoMOY4ep0zcARCRVBDxG6SxvEjNwCLcB/s320/P1020084.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'm pretty sure, anywhere else in the world, there would be an exclusive and expensive luxury lodge built there. But we had the beach and reserve to ourselves, plus one other visitor, who happened to be a luminary of Polar tourism.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BiJJ_OfCB5I/WBk0bQhMpWI/AAAAAAAAVXo/u6M8BJQpblskq-d0mX0ZDvY3woIRhq6-wCLcB/s1600/P1020086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BiJJ_OfCB5I/WBk0bQhMpWI/AAAAAAAAVXo/u6M8BJQpblskq-d0mX0ZDvY3woIRhq6-wCLcB/s320/P1020086.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adult</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When cruise ships call into Stanley, hundreds of passengers get ashore as early as they can and join the convoy of 4x4 (SUV) cars heading to Volunteer Point. Some pay a couple of hundred dollars each for the privilege, but where else can you get so close to so many breeding penguins in a pristine area?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0vWMav5OOC4/WBk0cgcaWWI/AAAAAAAAVXs/80UldwNdmPcCTuuu0jDgP3yOolB41hH4QCLcB/s1600/P1020100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0vWMav5OOC4/WBk0cgcaWWI/AAAAAAAAVXs/80UldwNdmPcCTuuu0jDgP3yOolB41hH4QCLcB/s320/P1020100.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross-eyed?</td></tr>
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The main problem with being a day visitor, apart from the cost, is the long overland, bumpy journey for a short time with the penguins. So, it was delicious to be able to relax and know we had all day and most of the next day. Then the fog came in...... :-(<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1uvsE1VxL3M/WBk0daA2gSI/AAAAAAAAVXw/1MTOI4ax1KgitnJvha-0GvouyyennMKnQCLcB/s1600/P1020104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1uvsE1VxL3M/WBk0daA2gSI/AAAAAAAAVXw/1MTOI4ax1KgitnJvha-0GvouyyennMKnQCLcB/s320/P1020104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Does my bum look big in this?"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GEoh4KvKXwg/WBk0d4b3C6I/AAAAAAAAVX0/Q0Yyl7aa-TMWM5GKGL96Rdlr7AWwYWfagCLcB/s1600/P1020106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GEoh4KvKXwg/WBk0d4b3C6I/AAAAAAAAVX0/Q0Yyl7aa-TMWM5GKGL96Rdlr7AWwYWfagCLcB/s320/P1020106.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguin feet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3IQuLHjHlso/WBk0e5uSqJI/AAAAAAAAVX4/gx0I8mQZElQZmNWsKZP4Hp6wm4ZP_yGMQCLcB/s1600/P1020109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3IQuLHjHlso/WBk0e5uSqJI/AAAAAAAAVX4/gx0I8mQZElQZmNWsKZP4Hp6wm4ZP_yGMQCLcB/s320/P1020109.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The creche is within the white stones.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vSKkUnVtXcg/WBk0gAt3XyI/AAAAAAAAVX8/jSRee9B3Mr8UgOlQUjtWSkUeOSknmlkWQCLcB/s1600/P1020138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vSKkUnVtXcg/WBk0gAt3XyI/AAAAAAAAVX8/jSRee9B3Mr8UgOlQUjtWSkUeOSknmlkWQCLcB/s320/P1020138.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four Gentoos</td></tr>
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<br />
As well as the "stars", the King penguins, there are several hundred (at least) breeding Gentoo and Magellanic penguins.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s6bMi_HhUrU/WBk0hADNcvI/AAAAAAAAVYE/rld7QBBlST8tx6Ky-r8uMKscnzDVdHBoQCLcB/s1600/P1020146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s6bMi_HhUrU/WBk0hADNcvI/AAAAAAAAVYE/rld7QBBlST8tx6Ky-r8uMKscnzDVdHBoQCLcB/s320/P1020146.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Out of the mist...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ehyu1Uy4mw/WBk0iAXikTI/AAAAAAAAVYM/IqAYbWfwg5obXo071rRBHHdR6DyDLbH_QCLcB/s1600/P1020154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ehyu1Uy4mw/WBk0iAXikTI/AAAAAAAAVYM/IqAYbWfwg5obXo071rRBHHdR6DyDLbH_QCLcB/s400/P1020154.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kings in the mist</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C45oHLMq_R4/WBk0jeeZy6I/AAAAAAAAVYQ/2rVOIsN1fREJnCKrKt4nxM49SrX-qQ0ewCLcB/s1600/P1020166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C45oHLMq_R4/WBk0jeeZy6I/AAAAAAAAVYQ/2rVOIsN1fREJnCKrKt4nxM49SrX-qQ0ewCLcB/s320/P1020166.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shanty. 10 miles from the nearest road...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eTigBrAJAr8/WBk0jgUVdkI/AAAAAAAAVYU/gnux__op-A0xsZIs4rwm4vJNo7t7gKelwCLcB/s1600/P1020167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="174" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eTigBrAJAr8/WBk0jgUVdkI/AAAAAAAAVYU/gnux__op-A0xsZIs4rwm4vJNo7t7gKelwCLcB/s640/P1020167.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Volunteer Beach. 2 miles long. No deckchairs. No people.....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jFA2q1RymGQ/WBk0mo4FFUI/AAAAAAAAVYc/GB0SXllqDZ4wSlRCNql5-qvLwxHkuQ3OwCLcB/s1600/P1020178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jFA2q1RymGQ/WBk0mo4FFUI/AAAAAAAAVYc/GB0SXllqDZ4wSlRCNql5-qvLwxHkuQ3OwCLcB/s320/P1020178.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three Kings....</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sFLFngjqe1s/WBk0nEujzEI/AAAAAAAAVYg/qXDp0JtMRvUKpXoOdDt5yaRaY8srKAwkgCLcB/s1600/P1020184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sFLFngjqe1s/WBk0nEujzEI/AAAAAAAAVYg/qXDp0JtMRvUKpXoOdDt5yaRaY8srKAwkgCLcB/s320/P1020184.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two Oystercatchers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photobombed. Well, it is a sheep farm.....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zARg6PRTwAg/WBk0takTBQI/AAAAAAAAVZE/yX5ebUX77t07HJ4tZwGmgTXFoq1P8aVuACLcB/s1600/P1020202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zARg6PRTwAg/WBk0takTBQI/AAAAAAAAVZE/yX5ebUX77t07HJ4tZwGmgTXFoq1P8aVuACLcB/s320/P1020202.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Moulting Kings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x8fe5F1TEao/WBnEjqa_ItI/AAAAAAAAVaA/eww4wbCiCnohhGatlS8X-LQaVE3t_MdQwCLcB/s1600/P1010928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x8fe5F1TEao/WBnEjqa_ItI/AAAAAAAAVaA/eww4wbCiCnohhGatlS8X-LQaVE3t_MdQwCLcB/s320/P1010928.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L1VbVlLAPi0/WBnEld_YrKI/AAAAAAAAVaI/IAeFILVGUQUGDvJQncnU34iv8N7siEb0ACLcB/s1600/P1010956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L1VbVlLAPi0/WBnEld_YrKI/AAAAAAAAVaI/IAeFILVGUQUGDvJQncnU34iv8N7siEb0ACLcB/s320/P1010956.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfecting Nordic Walking technique</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wall to wall penguins...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In case you get lost....</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguins everywhere.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parents with the Incredible Sulk</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To youngsters, we might be adults bringing food......</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With so many penguins, predators are never far away.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He might be wondering what kind of penguin we are!</td></tr>
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The walls of the shanty are covered in stunning photos taken by our hosts. One in particular, is a fantastic portrait of a peregrine falcon landing, wings outstretched, on its nest. We were told we might see the bird if we kept our eyes open....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peregrine, going fast.....</td></tr>
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Amazingly, about 15 minutes walk from the house, we heard an unusual screeching, and looked up to see two peregrines engaged in an aerial display. I nearly managed to get a photo of them both, but they were just a bit too fast for me!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea cliffs, home to the peregrines.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same cliff, with raptor atop....</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Falcon food....</td></tr>
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After a breezy walk along the cliffs, we returned to the beach hoping to see the sea lion again. What we found was another "first" (after the peregrines) for me!<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESd9ioNXTQc/WBnE0bxb44I/AAAAAAAAVbY/mwq9zqQ2KfwdHSmK4D3HVhialkFyS6lkwCLcB/s1600/P1020263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESd9ioNXTQc/WBnE0bxb44I/AAAAAAAAVbY/mwq9zqQ2KfwdHSmK4D3HVhialkFyS6lkwCLcB/s320/P1020263.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See that log in the middle of the beach.....?</td></tr>
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We were about to tuck into our packed lunch, when I thought the log on the beach looked a funny shape.......<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a log, but a Leopard Seal. Magellanic penguins consider their options.</td></tr>
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On closer inspection, it turned out to be a resting Leopard Seal.....<br />
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These seals are top predators, with some very sharp teeth and a penchant for penguins!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dreaming of penguins....</td></tr>
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In a unique occurrence, several years ago, one even drowned a British Antarctic Survey scientist who was diving near an Antarctic base.<br />
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As far as I know, Leopard seals only rarely frequent Falklands' waters. But there have been dozens of sightings this year, so I suspect something has gone awry with the normal food chain or distribution of food. The squid had a very poor year, so it's possible the seals are foraging far and wide. Their home range is Antarctica, and sub-Antarctic islands.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good bit of track.</td></tr>
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<br />All too soon, we were being driven the miles over the rough Camp tracks back to our car at the end of the road. It took about 2 and a half hours to do the 45 mile journey.<br />
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A peregrine falcon could have flown from Volunteer Point to Stanley in 6 (yes, six) minutes!<br />
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Thanks to Derek and Trudi for their warm hospitality, stunning photos and driving ability; to my wife for organising such a fabulous trip, and to Denise, whom we met there and shared some experiences with - a pleasure to meet you.<br />
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How can I follow that? :-)<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-61293195753614795832016-10-29T06:25:00.000-07:002016-10-29T06:25:52.036-07:00"To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield", on South Georgia<br />
[An intermittent insight into island life. The Falkland Islands are remote and windswept, and home to about 3,000 people, including me and my wife. About 800 miles south-east is South Georgia Island - covered in glaciers, temporary home to a few British Antarctic Survey scientists, and millions of penguins. However, there is no shortage of people who want to go there......]<br />
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In the last couple of weeks, I have been lucky enough to meet two parties of explorers whose lifetime ambitions included walking or skiing across South Georgia. Their exploits deserve telling....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrpCV1EPlZY/WAvUCdAjWUI/AAAAAAAAVTk/XQHIExlKKp8VwARhmqv_kjC4Cs4TxwnkQCLcB/s1600/25Sep2016_South%2BGeorgia100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrpCV1EPlZY/WAvUCdAjWUI/AAAAAAAAVTk/XQHIExlKKp8VwARhmqv_kjC4Cs4TxwnkQCLcB/s400/25Sep2016_South%2BGeorgia100.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starbuck Peak, (4705 feet, 1435m) (Photo courtesy of Simon Richardson).</td></tr>
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The Climbers........<br />
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Crossing South Georgia would be an amazing feat at the best of times, but some climbers also wanted to climb some unclimbed peaks along the way! Now, there are good reasons why some of those peaks are unclimbed! They are too difficult! However, there was a spell of remarkably good weather which allowed a small British group to climb the stunning Starbuck Peak for the first time! When they first saw its vertical slopes, their thoughts were that it was "probably impossible".<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Le7xyEt7IMU/WAvUEzzUsZI/AAAAAAAAVTw/0R5V0AwXkAA2w6c_JeTy8Lo14ILTmVZDQCLcB/s1600/P1000823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Le7xyEt7IMU/WAvUEzzUsZI/AAAAAAAAVTw/0R5V0AwXkAA2w6c_JeTy8Lo14ILTmVZDQCLcB/s320/P1000823.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><i>Pelagic Australis</i>, sister yacht to <i>Pelagic</i></td></tr>
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About a month ago, 3 British mountaineers sailed to South Georgia on the <i>Pelagic Australis</i> with two guides - Stephen Venables and Crag Jones - and owner of Pelagic Expeditions, Skip Novak. Both Skip and Stephen have explored South Georgia many times in the past.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w8Dz1eG3eFA/WAvZLYvtxlI/AAAAAAAAVUo/f5LWuAGUvvwuntf4HspFw34_gXTIbnoNQCLcB/s1600/P1030944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w8Dz1eG3eFA/WAvZLYvtxlI/AAAAAAAAVUo/f5LWuAGUvvwuntf4HspFw34_gXTIbnoNQCLcB/s320/P1030944.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yours truly on South Georgia</td></tr>
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This photo shows South Georgia at the end of summer. At this time of year, October - early Spring, it is covered in snow and ice, despite being the same distance from the Equator as the Isle of Man - 54 degrees south! The reason for this is the very cold ocean waters surrounding it. The climbing party spent 5 days in their tents on arrival, waiting for a blizzard to blow itself out.<br />
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But the blizzard had the beneficial effect of giving a good base of snow for their ski-touring and climbing. They then had sunshine for 12 days, and climbed 5 peaks, including the highest unclimbed peak on the island, Mt Baume (6,272 feet, 1,910m). Some of the mountains are so rarely visited that they have yet to be named!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JfZqyyNIxvk/WAvUK1x3IbI/AAAAAAAAVUM/8NFm9GBMHfgQahdCNd1z_ZLuGZjm_7T4ACLcB/s1600/P1010645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JfZqyyNIxvk/WAvUK1x3IbI/AAAAAAAAVUM/8NFm9GBMHfgQahdCNd1z_ZLuGZjm_7T4ACLcB/s320/P1010645.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Skip and co. in Stanley.</td></tr>
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I met the party - Skip Novak, Henry Chaplin, Simon Richardson and David Lund, (Stephen Venables, Crag Jones were still in South Georgia with the Crean Team. See below) - when they arrived back in Stanley. Another party I met this month had very different fortunes.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NLrMwRWcsLM/WAvUCkbf8pI/AAAAAAAAVTo/7iT9xnts_m0E0B6hPjW1qhR87vO82H4kwCLcB/s1600/P1000722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NLrMwRWcsLM/WAvUCkbf8pI/AAAAAAAAVTo/7iT9xnts_m0E0B6hPjW1qhR87vO82H4kwCLcB/s320/P1000722.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whaling harpoon, Stanley</td></tr>
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Team Tom Crean Centenary Traverse.........<br />
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100 years ago, one of the most miraculous journeys in history was completed by Ernest Shackleton, Frank Worsley and Tom Crean, when they walked into the whaling station of Stromness on South Georgia. Having been shipwrecked for 18 months on Antarctic ice floes, they then managed to sail a small boat 1200 miles to South Georgia. Sadly, they landed at the uninhabited south coast of South Georgia. With barely any equipment or food, they set off to cross the unmapped interior of South Georgia to find help. They walked for 36 hours solid.....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Shackleton's grave, South Georgia</td></tr>
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When they reached the whaling station, they asked to see the manager, who had wined and dined them before they had headed south 18 months previously.<br />
Shackleton - "Don't you know me?"<br />
Manager - "I know your voice".<br />
Shackleton - "My name is Shackleton".<br />
Manager - "Come in, come in".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CHM3UoUnP3Q/WAvYGzbNCDI/AAAAAAAAVUg/C-S2InGjuwgHoAOIMHROnO_6ZMtwQ1I1QCLcB/s1600/P1070460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CHM3UoUnP3Q/WAvYGzbNCDI/AAAAAAAAVUg/C-S2InGjuwgHoAOIMHROnO_6ZMtwQ1I1QCLcB/s320/P1070460.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down to Stromness, South Georgia.</td></tr>
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And so, 100 years on, the grand-daughter of Tom Crean, Aileen Crean O'Brien, decided to retrace Tom's route across the island, to commemorate the centenary of the epic crossing.<br />
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The group was guided by the two guides who were already on the island, Stephen Venables and Crag Jones, and comprised Aileen's partner Bill Sheppard and her two sons, Cian and Morgan D'Arcy. I met them as they passed through Stanley, where they joined the yacht, <i>Pelagic</i>, skippered by Alex and Giselle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9TWu44_RGJE/WAvUGH8yfQI/AAAAAAAAVT4/hBSfshdOunoftxiayh1frr6UgMLfBxZGgCLcB/s1600/P1010336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9TWu44_RGJE/WAvUGH8yfQI/AAAAAAAAVT4/hBSfshdOunoftxiayh1frr6UgMLfBxZGgCLcB/s320/P1010336.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aileen and Bill, with Shackleton South Georgia tea towel, on the <i>Pelagic</i></td></tr>
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I knew they had virtually no time in Stanley, so I presented them with a tea towel with a map of "Shackleton's" route across South Georgia, which they were about to retrace. (Maybe it would come in handy if they got separated from their guides?).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Team Tom Crean on the </span><i style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pelagic</i><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">, Stanley</span></td></tr>
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The next morning, <i>Pelagic </i> sailed out of Stanley harbour through the Narrows. It was almost flat calm, and, through binoculars, I could see the skipper rolling a cigarette. It was probably his last relaxed moment of the trip.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pelagic </i>sailing out of Stanley Harbour</td></tr>
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After five days at sea, they reached South Georgia, and prepared for their trek. They had been in training in Kerry, Ireland for more than a year, dragging car tyres round the back roads near their home in Kenmare.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--TewBOILEHc/WAvUKfvskqI/AAAAAAAAVUI/K-lvuOU0HLol7ex36ZcthgrksRB_-0dRACLcB/s1600/P1010365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--TewBOILEHc/WAvUKfvskqI/AAAAAAAAVUI/K-lvuOU0HLol7ex36ZcthgrksRB_-0dRACLcB/s320/P1010365.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pelagic</i>, through the Narrows.</td></tr>
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I would strongly urge you to read the story of Shackleton, Crean and Worsley. Aileen's version got off to a good start, climbing up onto glaciers in the first day of four. Near the end of day two, and they were abseiling, one at a time, down onto the Crean glacier. There was still a slope to negotiate and Aileen followed those ahead of her. Unfortunately, things went awry and she ended up with a bloody face and a smashed leg. Her grandfather had done something similar at the same spot and walked away with nothing worse than ripped trousers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qoecHIOUhQ/WA6kIOeZpEI/AAAAAAAAVVg/5eEgFZBnWhYx1CPLJpTm5Z8qHq9al4-LACEw/s1600/P1030969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qoecHIOUhQ/WA6kIOeZpEI/AAAAAAAAVVg/5eEgFZBnWhYx1CPLJpTm5Z8qHq9al4-LACEw/s320/P1030969.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crean Lake, where Tom Crean fell through the ice!<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">For the next two days, Aileen was dragged on a modified sled by Stephen and Crag. Very gingerly, they descended down to Fortuna Bay, where the <i>Pelagic </i> was waiting. Aileen somehow got into the zodiac, and was then winched aboard, and lowered through a hatch to a bunk. The next day, the yacht arrived at Grytviken, an abandoned whaling station, and now home to a couple of dozen British scientists. Luckily, a doctor put her leg in a splint. But she still faced an extremely uncomfortable week, sailing across the South Atlantic to Stanley...</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_K2luipk3g/WAvUCmhafuI/AAAAAAAAVTs/8NFiz9eoEscZgVLrOSpm0Wd4O8snp1NBwCLcB/s1600/P1000720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_K2luipk3g/WAvUCmhafuI/AAAAAAAAVTs/8NFiz9eoEscZgVLrOSpm0Wd4O8snp1NBwCLcB/s320/P1000720.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">HMS Clyde</td></tr>
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However, HMS <i>Clyde, </i>the Royal Navy's patrol vessel in the South Atlantic, fortuitously<i> </i>appeared over the horizon at just the right moment, and offered to return Aileen to the Falklands at full speed. So, she exchanged a cramped bunk for a small cabin, and parted from her partner and sons. They still had 5 miles of hiking to complete the South Georgia traverse, and so set off for Stromness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SXEj7-IsZPA/WA61UA_6-WI/AAAAAAAAVVs/xpWXEuT7sIY4uwvN7lFDzx-4d9ekpnC9QCLcB/s1600/P1030976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SXEj7-IsZPA/WA61UA_6-WI/AAAAAAAAVVs/xpWXEuT7sIY4uwvN7lFDzx-4d9ekpnC9QCLcB/s320/P1030976.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Shackleton's Falls, Stromness whaling station on the coast.</td></tr>
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After 18 months of isolation, Shackleton, Crean and Worsley arrived at this spot. It was dark, but realising it was a few minutes to 7am, the men paused and listened. Sure enough, at 7am, they heard the sound of the factory whistle summoning the whalers to work. Apart from their own, it was the first man-made sound the explorers had heard in 18 months. Team Tom Crean finished their traverse without further incident.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-po_lHZ_5RvA/WAvULFvI-hI/AAAAAAAAVUQ/VM5FyDaHqXcYFV7Et6FCLgFp29_jlcVmwCLcB/s1600/P1040385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-po_lHZ_5RvA/WAvULFvI-hI/AAAAAAAAVUQ/VM5FyDaHqXcYFV7Et6FCLgFp29_jlcVmwCLcB/s320/P1040385.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><i>Pelagic Australis</i>, with <i>Hans Hansson </i>in the background.</td></tr>
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However, they now had to follow Aileen back to Falklands through stormy waters....... Once back in the Falklands, Aileen had been ferried to the hospital in Stanley by helicopter. There, her leg was set in plaster to immobilise it. But repairing the knee needed specialist attention. It was decided to evacuate her to Santiago in Chile.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d09mCvtakLk/WAvUE1T2iSI/AAAAAAAAVT0/inaOJp52OUcSjTTVoRbMdf2ExeHb47aUQCLcB/s1600/P1000741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d09mCvtakLk/WAvUE1T2iSI/AAAAAAAAVT0/inaOJp52OUcSjTTVoRbMdf2ExeHb47aUQCLcB/s320/P1000741.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">HMS <i>Clyde </i>in Stanley Harbour</td></tr>
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While Aileen was awaiting her flight to Chile, I mentioned to our local librarian, Coleen, whom I knew to have a special interest in South Georgia, having spent some of her childhood there, that Aileen was in the hospital. "Oh, my grandmother told me that Tom Crean was the hungriest man she'd ever met!" It turned out that Coleen had heard of Tom Crean from her grandparents who ran the First and Last Hotel in Stanley. When the <i>Endurance</i> explorers had arrived back in the Falklands, Sir Ernest Shackleton had been put up at Government House as the guest of the Governor, but the men had made do in an hotel. And they made up for 18 months of deprivation, while they waited for help to rescue their colleagues on Elephant Island!<br />
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It would take four attempts to eventually save them. A Chilean Pilot, Pardo, is still celebrated in his home port of Punta Arenas for achieving what the Royal or Merchant Navy could not do - pluck 28 men from Elephant Island.<br />
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Just before she flew off, Aileen's cast was split open for the flight, as bodies sometimes expand with the changing air pressure.... She didn't much like the cast anyway, as she is a proud Kerry woman, and the doctor had written "Up Wexford" on it!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQsWb3oe1LY/WA6hAHOjkAI/AAAAAAAAVVQ/QHkub_FiDL0IVZhFg5FWmDJRhHv_tCJ4QCLcB/s1600/P1010901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQsWb3oe1LY/WA6hAHOjkAI/AAAAAAAAVVQ/QHkub_FiDL0IVZhFg5FWmDJRhHv_tCJ4QCLcB/s320/P1010901.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aileen with the "Up Wexford" cast, cut open for the flight.</td></tr>
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I've been delaying posting this until I had heard where the rest of Team Tom Crean were. Today, as I drove to work, I saw the Pelagic moored at the public jetty. Having seen some movement onboard, I guessed I could re-introduce myself. Everyone was OK, although most were slightly shaky on their legs after 9 very rough days at sea. They had the look of men who had been through the wringer, and then put back through again.<br />
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It wasn't a time for chatting or reflection. I passed on news of Aileen, and gave then souvenir copies of Penguin News which had articles about them. Then I wished them well on their homeward leg. In the afternoon, I bumped into Bill looking for the library and Coleen, but I was giving a driving lesson, so couldn't stop! <br />
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According to historians, the Heroic Age of Antarctica was about 100 years ago. However, I feel that some of the recent exploits are nothing short of heroic.<br />
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I once worked with a remarkable man, and one of his favourite works was "Ulysses", by Tennyson.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">"<i>One equal temper of heroic hearts,</i></span><i><br style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will</span></i><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><b><i>To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield</i>.<span style="font-size: 14px;">" </span></b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></b></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">It just came to mind. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">To Team Tom Crean - it was a pleasure to meet you. I think Tom would have been proud of you. Go well. Stay well. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">Peter</span></span>peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-83133581513059036672016-10-20T19:01:00.001-07:002016-10-20T19:01:05.994-07:00Not Little Britain - more the United Nations[This is an occasional glimpse into the lives of a couple of British expats living in Stanley in the Falkland Islands, South Atlantic. This week, to celebrate the fact that there are dozens of different cultures and nationalities living here, people came to together to enjoy the differences.....and food!]<br />
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To reflect the growing diversity of the Falkland Islands, a weekend of events was organised by volunteers. Of course, what do many people miss when they move to somewhere new, apart from friends? Yes, food.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meat deliveries, pre-supermarket </td></tr>
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So, although there were national dances, costumes and customs, food seemed to be the dominant theme. These old photos of Falklands' life (shown at the Historic Dockyard Museum) show how people coped before fridges, freezers and regular food supplies from abroad.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collecting penguin eggs to survive the winter</td></tr>
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A big event was held on Saturday, with about 12 different nationalities offering some tasty treats from their homelands. Being Scottish, I would loved to have cooked a haggis, but the supermarket had run out!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EmEEHl2i-eA/WAgFrhGOavI/AAAAAAAAVRc/bn_-AAk0Gv82wqPiJhlM67phL4iyBbGkwCLcB/s1600/P1010673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EmEEHl2i-eA/WAgFrhGOavI/AAAAAAAAVRc/bn_-AAk0Gv82wqPiJhlM67phL4iyBbGkwCLcB/s320/P1010673.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">His Excellency the Governor and his wife sampling Peruvian food.</td></tr>
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The Falklands stand had quite a variety of home-cooked food - goose pate; mutton chops, delicious smoked trout, and so on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1X3Hu4XKJeU/WAgFuGvZO2I/AAAAAAAAVRk/pov-p81jLJo0I-Thh7vRK52YkCZW-XGJACLcB/s1600/P1010679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1X3Hu4XKJeU/WAgFuGvZO2I/AAAAAAAAVRk/pov-p81jLJo0I-Thh7vRK52YkCZW-XGJACLcB/s320/P1010679.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Falklands Fayre - Upland goose pate, smoked trout, mutton chops,potted meat.......</td></tr>
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But the more exotic stands were attracting the crowds. Firstly, I needed to get some filling and delicious Irish Stew inside me!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The minimalist Irish stand - Hurley sticks, Guinness, soda bread and Irish Stew. What more do you need?</td></tr>
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The Australian and New Zealand stand had some interesting additions to my culinary education. The baked bean sandwiches seemed popular with our student population, and such a simple recipe....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ANZAC biccies</td></tr>
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There was a Phillipines stall, reflecting the large number of Filipino people that have made the Falklands their home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HFHTOihqJoM/WAgFxNt0byI/AAAAAAAAVRw/cOVM8TNhtbIR_jKsE5GkyyKwqfzIB5ycwCLcB/s1600/P1010692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HFHTOihqJoM/WAgFxNt0byI/AAAAAAAAVRw/cOVM8TNhtbIR_jKsE5GkyyKwqfzIB5ycwCLcB/s320/P1010692.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cheerful Zimbabwean ladies.</td></tr>
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The Zimbabwean food was appreciated by most, although the smoked caterpillar was an acquired taste. I had three, and didn't acquire the taste at all. Many Zimbabweans are in the Falklands to clear the thousands of mines left behind by Argentine troops after the war of 1982. Their efforts are greatly appreciated by Islanders, and their presence adds much to local life. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QicS7QUvXio/WAgFwWfyveI/AAAAAAAAVRs/zvLgcY4sMEIWSiTIYfC6zCVohH2vFPYogCLcB/s1600/P1010689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QicS7QUvXio/WAgFwWfyveI/AAAAAAAAVRs/zvLgcY4sMEIWSiTIYfC6zCVohH2vFPYogCLcB/s320/P1010689.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Man vs Caterpillar</td></tr>
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There was also food from Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal. Feeling a bit bloated, I was happy to hear that the national dancing would be starting soon. First up was Chile - I forgot to mention the excellent empanadas etc on the Chile stall!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4wgG9MqASQM/WAgFxa92XoI/AAAAAAAAVR0/zws0A8dxChweKJyGguNus-myQ2uto7qNACLcB/s1600/P1010724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4wgG9MqASQM/WAgFxa92XoI/AAAAAAAAVR0/zws0A8dxChweKJyGguNus-myQ2uto7qNACLcB/s320/P1010724.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caramba!</td></tr>
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Those Chilenos could dance! They were followed by Gurkhas, Filipinos, Falkland Islanders and more. But my camera batteries had run out........ :-(<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R5TLTIYoxPk/WAgeAxFfZ1I/AAAAAAAAVSI/wUrH6IWq4gAInpi3iSFer9k6DpW_CoBXwCLcB/s1600/P1010762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R5TLTIYoxPk/WAgeAxFfZ1I/AAAAAAAAVSI/wUrH6IWq4gAInpi3iSFer9k6DpW_CoBXwCLcB/s320/P1010762.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old Filipino recipe....</td></tr>
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The next day, at the Racecourse, camera batteries fully charged, we ventured out to try more cultural experiences.....and food!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qjDjZzbKRoA/WAgeBaQQYaI/AAAAAAAAVSQ/cAEyiIaNeMk3CIEtZWMQquyqIXdw-LB8gCLcB/s1600/P1010770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qjDjZzbKRoA/WAgeBaQQYaI/AAAAAAAAVSQ/cAEyiIaNeMk3CIEtZWMQquyqIXdw-LB8gCLcB/s320/P1010770.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilean asado. </td></tr>
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The choice of food may not have impressed a vegetarian, but for carnivores, the slow-roasting lamb and pig were a delight. Especially as the Chilean and Filipino community had added their special preparations for these meals.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zmaOI5p47po/WAgeBGgVhMI/AAAAAAAAVSM/Qtap8k3HGfQOJjNelUmk8BT8-zQ5o9-KwCLcB/s1600/P1010781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zmaOI5p47po/WAgeBGgVhMI/AAAAAAAAVSM/Qtap8k3HGfQOJjNelUmk8BT8-zQ5o9-KwCLcB/s320/P1010781.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dog trials get underway... "Guilty!"</td></tr>
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While waiting for the meat to cook (gas mark 2 for 6 hours.....), we were entertained by more "culture" - in the shape of sheep dog trials, sheep shearing, and numerous races and competitions.... It was just a very relaxing and chilled way to meet up with friends and enjoy the sights and smells wafting across the racecourse.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ibiUqDPYpX8/WAgirBEkPHI/AAAAAAAAVS0/gCsDqQMst7UXwHqUezBD_K9XV6crIKWOACLcB/s1600/P1010847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ibiUqDPYpX8/WAgirBEkPHI/AAAAAAAAVS0/gCsDqQMst7UXwHqUezBD_K9XV6crIKWOACLcB/s320/P1010847.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Another happy sheep shorn.....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C1uE0g44iuI/WAgeD-L5bTI/AAAAAAAAVSU/NpTC_o_jfeME1attG3cztqGgVwyvnkRngCLcB/s1600/P1010820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C1uE0g44iuI/WAgeD-L5bTI/AAAAAAAAVSU/NpTC_o_jfeME1attG3cztqGgVwyvnkRngCLcB/s320/P1010820.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Probably the best chicken I've tasted......over an hour on the grill and still succulent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hEWCfBbG_P8/WAgeEA2PRQI/AAAAAAAAVSc/AlzFVp0y7UkI5lqTGDhm-HzcFsKwfVXUQCLcB/s1600/P1010826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hEWCfBbG_P8/WAgeEA2PRQI/AAAAAAAAVSc/AlzFVp0y7UkI5lqTGDhm-HzcFsKwfVXUQCLcB/s320/P1010826.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not fast food.......but worth the wait.</td></tr>
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By about 2pm, queues were beginning to form near the BBQs. The smells were making most people salivate.<br />
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To keep them occupied, the organisers (all volunteers), laid on a tug-of-war between the boys and girls. The contest was very close until someone said "Heave", and the girls went backwards at a rate of knots.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girls vs Boys tug-of-war. Girls won.....</td></tr>
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The boys asked for a rematch, and were even more quickly routed. Next up was a batch of sheep who were only too happy to get rid of their winter fleeces.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheep looking happy to lose the woolly layer.......</td></tr>
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The skill involved was breathtaking, and watching the shearer was hypnotic. I stood beside one lovely lady, who said, "I can't believe I'm still fascinated by this - I must have seen 30,000 sheep being sheared!"<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKl2Xk7VqF0/WAgeFx0KbvI/AAAAAAAAVSg/NiIso-A5sxE5WWe5n0dRfm9vhYwzSPNrQCLcB/s1600/P1010877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKl2Xk7VqF0/WAgeFx0KbvI/AAAAAAAAVSg/NiIso-A5sxE5WWe5n0dRfm9vhYwzSPNrQCLcB/s320/P1010877.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start of the mile race.</td></tr>
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All too soon, we had to say our farewells. The energetic were still racing each other to the end of the racecourse and back, but we had a literally fruitless journey to the fruit and veg shop, to find out that Chilean Customs had once again stopped our fresh produce arriving in the islands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8nFUe4d6nYI/WAgeGM0buXI/AAAAAAAAVSk/X3SsepxsfFEShd066yrHEn6KqkaNKTHVgCLcB/s1600/P1010878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8nFUe4d6nYI/WAgeGM0buXI/AAAAAAAAVSk/X3SsepxsfFEShd066yrHEn6KqkaNKTHVgCLcB/s320/P1010878.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mile race heads out to the turn.</td></tr>
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However, considering that I had tasted smoked caterpillar, and lots of other tastier foods this weekend, it didn't seem like we were going to starve any time soon.<br />
<br />
A great weekend: lots of exotic cultures, mixed in with lots of traditional activities. And all within walking distance of our house!<br />
<br />
More soon<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-91841992753490570092016-10-08T19:29:00.000-07:002016-10-09T04:15:10.596-07:00West is Best.....[The blog of expat Brits living in the South Atlantic, on the Falkland Islands - a little of Britain, but with an identity all of its own. This week, travelling with a lovely friend and her rugged Land Rover, we managed a road trip on West Falkland: a big, sparsely-populated island given over to sheep farming and trout fishing.....]<br />
<br />
To break the journey to the West, we stopped overnight at the very comfortable Darwin House, about 60 miles south-west of Stanley, the capital of the Falklands. "Smoko" can be afternoon tea or morning coffee - a time to enjoy the scenery and some home baking......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_Z0dZoYCE8/V_ma3n7OqUI/AAAAAAAAVOU/e9Dp4jGxmoY9ct_8vxdE1Hcx_cbfyknYACLcB/s1600/20161002_161525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_Z0dZoYCE8/V_ma3n7OqUI/AAAAAAAAVOU/e9Dp4jGxmoY9ct_8vxdE1Hcx_cbfyknYACLcB/s320/20161002_161525.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoko at Darwin House</td></tr>
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We had taken the long route to Darwin, on the road that keeps to the north of the spine of mountains that traverse East Falklands. And we had a long journey on West Falkland, so it made sense to pause and then get the ferry in the morning.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vj_WrgZ8e8g/V_ma4IDbrJI/AAAAAAAAVOY/jfepegCq7l4CxLbvvNxs2C4Uyvr9N5JigCLcB/s320/20161003_081040.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking north from Darwin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fgzYmefdBLo/V_mF2a81l9I/AAAAAAAAVLc/t8mK-3feC8MlAZBfRxiOmunoM1f0DB6vgCLcB/s1600/P1010402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fgzYmefdBLo/V_mF2a81l9I/AAAAAAAAVLc/t8mK-3feC8MlAZBfRxiOmunoM1f0DB6vgCLcB/s320/P1010402.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darwin House, with Mount Usborne in the distance. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lvB3GL2_VR8/V_mF2kq78cI/AAAAAAAAVLg/cvS0OEs_dXAZLH2MyVrc0jgIyiWr62eZwCLcB/s1600/P1010405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lvB3GL2_VR8/V_mF2kq78cI/AAAAAAAAVLg/cvS0OEs_dXAZLH2MyVrc0jgIyiWr62eZwCLcB/s320/P1010405.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the stone corral, Darwin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WHepOXtxu5M/V_mF1o2NMpI/AAAAAAAAVLY/UZO19eHbv30u5IoZxeZm7tKSridZ1gH9gCLcB/s1600/P1010410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WHepOXtxu5M/V_mF1o2NMpI/AAAAAAAAVLY/UZO19eHbv30u5IoZxeZm7tKSridZ1gH9gCLcB/s320/P1010410.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloud cover on Mt Usborne through the emergency exit, Darwin House</td></tr>
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The ferry terminal is about 20 miles from Darwin, so we had a leisurely breakfast and drove to the end of the road, where a small colony of Gentoo penguins greeted us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VatyVgr7PKo/V_mF4yw3bkI/AAAAAAAAVLk/9-mn_LniZ4gXU-A13Yj0fUav4Jqd3q-pQCLcB/s1600/P1010417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VatyVgr7PKo/V_mF4yw3bkI/AAAAAAAAVLk/9-mn_LniZ4gXU-A13Yj0fUav4Jqd3q-pQCLcB/s320/P1010417.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gentoo Penguins waiting at the ferry terminal, Newhaven</td></tr>
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After a short wait, the ferry came into sight, and disgorged some of the revellers who had been celebrating 150 years of the Port Howard Farm over the weekend. Today was Peat Cutting Monday - a public holiday, so no-one was rushing....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cvdjnY3xjFg/V_mF4wMmWhI/AAAAAAAAVLo/3R7WV0C_CD8tozSFD3cAmqhQ7LdBFW7wwCLcB/s1600/P1010424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cvdjnY3xjFg/V_mF4wMmWhI/AAAAAAAAVLo/3R7WV0C_CD8tozSFD3cAmqhQ7LdBFW7wwCLcB/s320/P1010424.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Concordia Bay approaches Newhaven</td></tr>
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Reversing onto ferry with several skilled drivers of mechanical diggers watching was fairly stressful, but I managed not to hit anything or any of the crew!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FeXPVqVvPvw/V_mF5JhOfdI/AAAAAAAAVLs/2O9CVZRX2xUBIZyJYKVpqjKbQHTRp1CGQCLcB/s1600/P1010429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FeXPVqVvPvw/V_mF5JhOfdI/AAAAAAAAVLs/2O9CVZRX2xUBIZyJYKVpqjKbQHTRp1CGQCLcB/s320/P1010429.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A crowded deck</td></tr>
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The crossing of Falkland Sound took about 90 minutes and was uneventful. The main change was the approaching fog.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-36ozo0F6IEo/V_mF7O2ylGI/AAAAAAAAVLw/AlOn85XgNmgxKxPtoyrgVjMo7wcD_b3bACLcB/s1600/P1010432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-36ozo0F6IEo/V_mF7O2ylGI/AAAAAAAAVLw/AlOn85XgNmgxKxPtoyrgVjMo7wcD_b3bACLcB/s320/P1010432.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ship's clinometer shows the tilt!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ipP9N6kehkM/V_mF8IBLXTI/AAAAAAAAVL4/DaaO9sJShFQZnEcgIpNA2xEbYT8dCgK3ACLcB/s1600/P1010438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ipP9N6kehkM/V_mF8IBLXTI/AAAAAAAAVL4/DaaO9sJShFQZnEcgIpNA2xEbYT8dCgK3ACLcB/s320/P1010438.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port Howard Lodge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g69C9n-UnDg/V_ma8ZoxdaI/AAAAAAAAVOo/rbbFWn9qON44Dc8ierj6UIe56Pno2P4bgCLcB/s1600/20161003_144213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g69C9n-UnDg/V_ma8ZoxdaI/AAAAAAAAVOo/rbbFWn9qON44Dc8ierj6UIe56Pno2P4bgCLcB/s320/20161003_144213.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">War remnants are easy to find</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After passing through Port Howard, we headed for Hill Cove on the north coast.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SjBJImhoQeI/V_mF9oGipUI/AAAAAAAAVL8/IiTlpgrkwtoXvj1LUAwZGidIl6ZELTupgCLcB/s1600/P1010442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SjBJImhoQeI/V_mF9oGipUI/AAAAAAAAVL8/IiTlpgrkwtoXvj1LUAwZGidIl6ZELTupgCLcB/s320/P1010442.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm convinced miles are longer on the West.....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The fog we were to see for the next two days was gradually spreading over the landscape.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kL-PUi3M7yo/V_mF-MIEHPI/AAAAAAAAVMA/TO-eL9MrqeEKH16sA6rQwMIhig4DdbdlgCLcB/s1600/P1010444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kL-PUi3M7yo/V_mF-MIEHPI/AAAAAAAAVMA/TO-eL9MrqeEKH16sA6rQwMIhig4DdbdlgCLcB/s320/P1010444.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The duvet clouds separate the mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8fhOMCiDGk0/V_ma-VXaErI/AAAAAAAAVOw/oaut3sALM40FpSfy_fEZutLStHNMCnw9wCLcB/s1600/20161004_113743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8fhOMCiDGk0/V_ma-VXaErI/AAAAAAAAVOw/oaut3sALM40FpSfy_fEZutLStHNMCnw9wCLcB/s320/20161004_113743.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old road...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But the remote roads were a joy to drive, once we got used to the surface and the lack of traffic.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESXECqY-YJs/V_mF-icduRI/AAAAAAAAVME/oO1dad_4cX80K4RhEHcFyllbqO-Z_0lAACLcB/s1600/P1010450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESXECqY-YJs/V_mF-icduRI/AAAAAAAAVME/oO1dad_4cX80K4RhEHcFyllbqO-Z_0lAACLcB/s320/P1010450.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roads are direct....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9otywujK0ZQ/V_ma_PVtejI/AAAAAAAAVO4/pkLUc4kgY0Ij-JiifCm_LFpA5UhMJQ2CQCLcB/s1600/20161005_112925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9otywujK0ZQ/V_ma_PVtejI/AAAAAAAAVO4/pkLUc4kgY0Ij-JiifCm_LFpA5UhMJQ2CQCLcB/s320/20161005_112925.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a difference a day makes...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--01gYZx2A34/V_ma8zUca0I/AAAAAAAAVOs/HroCjqTRiu4cGucPYniq1z5vo6BOmtbbACLcB/s1600/20161004_112357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--01gYZx2A34/V_ma8zUca0I/AAAAAAAAVOs/HroCjqTRiu4cGucPYniq1z5vo6BOmtbbACLcB/s320/20161004_112357.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_cCU61vk_sA/V_mF_mUAlyI/AAAAAAAAVMM/Dy9__RxHwHwvKKHNJqJ-FGnGefsj5Pt6QCLcB/s1600/P1010456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_cCU61vk_sA/V_mF_mUAlyI/AAAAAAAAVMM/Dy9__RxHwHwvKKHNJqJ-FGnGefsj5Pt6QCLcB/s320/P1010456.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Islands in the sun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8H7a3J2bKnc/V_mGBUuUVVI/AAAAAAAAVMU/IkaKqiQ6qD0V9iYbQ7Eq1Cs7ciPLf_q5wCLcB/s1600/P1010469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8H7a3J2bKnc/V_mGBUuUVVI/AAAAAAAAVMU/IkaKqiQ6qD0V9iYbQ7Eq1Cs7ciPLf_q5wCLcB/s320/P1010469.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roy Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Le20c0FK4QQ/V_mGCo6XLbI/AAAAAAAAVMY/gf5XHgg361MExsQpt7PhV9DkK8JxFxcCQCLcB/s1600/P1010470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Le20c0FK4QQ/V_mGCo6XLbI/AAAAAAAAVMY/gf5XHgg361MExsQpt7PhV9DkK8JxFxcCQCLcB/s320/P1010470.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big House, Roy Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EAUo8xBlZz8/V_mGC2cX3DI/AAAAAAAAVMc/QCiQslKPPhkoT1ywblGC8t_Oe_9HxT31ACLcB/s1600/P1010480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EAUo8xBlZz8/V_mGC2cX3DI/AAAAAAAAVMc/QCiQslKPPhkoT1ywblGC8t_Oe_9HxT31ACLcB/s320/P1010480.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">National Forest, Hill Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eaZvYPq526w/V_mGDGOut3I/AAAAAAAAVMg/OMtaLL_iMr4MTRErzMUFwgWF_loYqklmgCLcB/s1600/P1010483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eaZvYPq526w/V_mGDGOut3I/AAAAAAAAVMg/OMtaLL_iMr4MTRErzMUFwgWF_loYqklmgCLcB/s320/P1010483.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming in under the fog</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aH3aFCafoTs/V_mGEZoq56I/AAAAAAAAVMk/sGRfNdNalnkyYQXTNxYHHbteprHpFNxXgCLcB/s1600/P1010489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aH3aFCafoTs/V_mGEZoq56I/AAAAAAAAVMk/sGRfNdNalnkyYQXTNxYHHbteprHpFNxXgCLcB/s320/P1010489.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over 100 miniature horses on one farm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4TC4FRkvxk/V_mGF21YZqI/AAAAAAAAVMs/pWiLjNdxLsYjvo0TQDrsfILJ5bK6EKtNgCLcB/s1600/P1010495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4TC4FRkvxk/V_mGF21YZqI/AAAAAAAAVMs/pWiLjNdxLsYjvo0TQDrsfILJ5bK6EKtNgCLcB/s320/P1010495.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hardy miniature horses</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OqGl98ZSACg/V_mGFs0vYDI/AAAAAAAAVMo/bpTI29NmVo0UPAipX3SjXrLijcW0RJgmgCLcB/s1600/P1010506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OqGl98ZSACg/V_mGFs0vYDI/AAAAAAAAVMo/bpTI29NmVo0UPAipX3SjXrLijcW0RJgmgCLcB/s320/P1010506.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many variations of a Variable Hawk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NuRlnQplmwY/V_ma-9gZ_II/AAAAAAAAVO0/ZdwlEaPAWdU48VS9QkCPy5r2K8AOK9YGwCLcB/s1600/20161005_081359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NuRlnQplmwY/V_ma-9gZ_II/AAAAAAAAVO0/ZdwlEaPAWdU48VS9QkCPy5r2K8AOK9YGwCLcB/s320/20161005_081359.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shallow Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_OMqWbsdLN8/V_mGIQ1hESI/AAAAAAAAVM0/zaD7CiDidloXcHsaP0ZkHixKtj85O2x8QCLcB/s1600/P1010517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_OMqWbsdLN8/V_mGIQ1hESI/AAAAAAAAVM0/zaD7CiDidloXcHsaP0ZkHixKtj85O2x8QCLcB/s320/P1010517.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to Keppel Island </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DGjhsdy4WyU/V_mGKu4ZMOI/AAAAAAAAVM4/K-Sf6bnM3DEbhcIwbfsOhGEDkg0gDkXdQCLcB/s1600/P1010522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DGjhsdy4WyU/V_mGKu4ZMOI/AAAAAAAAVM4/K-Sf6bnM3DEbhcIwbfsOhGEDkg0gDkXdQCLcB/s320/P1010522.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stone buildings are unusual on the Falklands</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kJzHOyjtOsE/V_mGAtDBOwI/AAAAAAAAVMQ/dtFIGjXIZwYUQQyf5YXuIlDsXCZZ9sBrQCLcB/s1600/P1010465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kJzHOyjtOsE/V_mGAtDBOwI/AAAAAAAAVMQ/dtFIGjXIZwYUQQyf5YXuIlDsXCZZ9sBrQCLcB/s320/P1010465.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Clean and simple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImIeIjH27xU/V_mGKtGvTrI/AAAAAAAAVNA/plOK9mzM_LYZJ5FQ8TmByxy4fttEvM2ZQCLcB/s1600/P1010534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImIeIjH27xU/V_mGKtGvTrI/AAAAAAAAVNA/plOK9mzM_LYZJ5FQ8TmByxy4fttEvM2ZQCLcB/s320/P1010534.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eventually, the fog lifted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaubEg3F8mw/V_mGMcSUXzI/AAAAAAAAVNI/6UnDeqO46vs-apZAYuSToYsjB6XPsrrFgCLcB/s1600/P1010537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaubEg3F8mw/V_mGMcSUXzI/AAAAAAAAVNI/6UnDeqO46vs-apZAYuSToYsjB6XPsrrFgCLcB/s320/P1010537.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keppel Island, former Missionary station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZnDTAFtXrow/V_mGLwjGhqI/AAAAAAAAVNE/7UONnPFPk7kRC8HFp3KoNtMKWzazJKzDQCLcB/s1600/P1010538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZnDTAFtXrow/V_mGLwjGhqI/AAAAAAAAVNE/7UONnPFPk7kRC8HFp3KoNtMKWzazJKzDQCLcB/s1600/P1010538.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overlooking Keppel Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I23YRia_o0o/V_mGMpvCFYI/AAAAAAAAVNM/rBCzzWcGtLsyMXwtIdcY-_BSSEVED64ewCLcB/s1600/P1010539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I23YRia_o0o/V_mGMpvCFYI/AAAAAAAAVNM/rBCzzWcGtLsyMXwtIdcY-_BSSEVED64ewCLcB/s320/P1010539.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hill Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aHLeHgeTeX0/V_mGOKT2H-I/AAAAAAAAVNQ/I39rOwJlMuIO4X2LANBWbPSJhCvlakLFACLcB/s1600/P1010542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aHLeHgeTeX0/V_mGOKT2H-I/AAAAAAAAVNQ/I39rOwJlMuIO4X2LANBWbPSJhCvlakLFACLcB/s320/P1010542.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shallow Bay, with Pebble Island in the distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We visited a couple of outlying farms and settlements, where,if we did bump into people, we were told that it was a shame we couldn't see the wonderful views. But on day three, the fog lifted and we realised why people had recommended the West ("West is Best")!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N3Ri7O9O9H4/V_mGOwX6BiI/AAAAAAAAVNU/k9ps73Ng0_0XXdSF5CHhl4vk5MPeYfyzQCLcB/s1600/P1010553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N3Ri7O9O9H4/V_mGOwX6BiI/AAAAAAAAVNU/k9ps73Ng0_0XXdSF5CHhl4vk5MPeYfyzQCLcB/s320/P1010553.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the three cars we saw in 4 days.....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0NgWMPXp0fM/V_mGRHDR0cI/AAAAAAAAVNg/bduqNpz-4MInrjD9C7Uy1lJOyowbBQV0QCLcB/s1600/P1010555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0NgWMPXp0fM/V_mGRHDR0cI/AAAAAAAAVNg/bduqNpz-4MInrjD9C7Uy1lJOyowbBQV0QCLcB/s320/P1010555.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Straight stretch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NZf_yKKr5mg/V_mGQhaghvI/AAAAAAAAVNc/QOpXYSomGAMq-l_XJsEbwYJDxKQv_alewCLcB/s1600/P1010569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NZf_yKKr5mg/V_mGQhaghvI/AAAAAAAAVNc/QOpXYSomGAMq-l_XJsEbwYJDxKQv_alewCLcB/s640/P1010569.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chartres River</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FyS7c-_--Ks/V_mbBR9yEEI/AAAAAAAAVPE/dUimDrGMc6oPhqMmhK0kRFAwaKfdjyCzACLcB/s1600/20161005_123013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FyS7c-_--Ks/V_mbBR9yEEI/AAAAAAAAVPE/dUimDrGMc6oPhqMmhK0kRFAwaKfdjyCzACLcB/s320/20161005_123013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Chartres settlement</td></tr>
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Soon, we headed south to Fox Bay, via a picnic stop in Chartres.....Sun all the way.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SedA9pUvu04/V_mGRIpDAII/AAAAAAAAVNk/zwNFuRe6GkUT75CNSZbQeBJ3em3HP_cxwCLcB/s1600/P1010571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SedA9pUvu04/V_mGRIpDAII/AAAAAAAAVNk/zwNFuRe6GkUT75CNSZbQeBJ3em3HP_cxwCLcB/s320/P1010571.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Post Office Museum, Fox Bay East</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1tcsxhB9yHY/V_mGTGY-V1I/AAAAAAAAVNs/z6tYEgGc33AyrCBTUx5FEz_xHTexq_vuwCLcB/s1600/P1010573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1tcsxhB9yHY/V_mGTGY-V1I/AAAAAAAAVNs/z6tYEgGc33AyrCBTUx5FEz_xHTexq_vuwCLcB/s320/P1010573.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Postal Museum, Fox Bay East. Opened by Princess Anne this year.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g7XMcOxpQ9M/V_mGTi1IFmI/AAAAAAAAVNw/VnSinLofdU4k4KpoAnk1qGmkY1WejBROQCLcB/s1600/P1010583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g7XMcOxpQ9M/V_mGTi1IFmI/AAAAAAAAVNw/VnSinLofdU4k4KpoAnk1qGmkY1WejBROQCLcB/s320/P1010583.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small horses, Fox Bay West</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fUzaAE766HQ/V_mGSvPXOmI/AAAAAAAAVNo/mn0DBFGb03M6k5ziRRWMw1Btluyqzm_ggCLcB/s1600/P1010588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fUzaAE766HQ/V_mGSvPXOmI/AAAAAAAAVNo/mn0DBFGb03M6k5ziRRWMw1Btluyqzm_ggCLcB/s640/P1010588.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay West</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0y3tGtQ_k2Q/V_mGU55IJbI/AAAAAAAAVN0/esLbLhIE9r8XVcy5UrBZQXVOLNQ__tLPQCLcB/s1600/P1010589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0y3tGtQ_k2Q/V_mGU55IJbI/AAAAAAAAVN0/esLbLhIE9r8XVcy5UrBZQXVOLNQ__tLPQCLcB/s320/P1010589.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Shanty House, Fox Bay West</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-snMXL8_VyN4/V_mbA637xCI/AAAAAAAAVPA/iT8ZdofPZv0RXhy--RjmPRgDtZA_mcutwCLcB/s1600/20161006_065428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-snMXL8_VyN4/V_mbA637xCI/AAAAAAAAVPA/iT8ZdofPZv0RXhy--RjmPRgDtZA_mcutwCLcB/s320/20161006_065428.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay West, dawn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBa13kwCaWI/V_mbBzQHH9I/AAAAAAAAVPI/JCBkV1mrJ0gcdUUSgCrGm09V41x5WNxAwCLcB/s1600/20161006_083220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBa13kwCaWI/V_mbBzQHH9I/AAAAAAAAVPI/JCBkV1mrJ0gcdUUSgCrGm09V41x5WNxAwCLcB/s320/20161006_083220.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upland Geese doing 40mph. No speed limit on the West</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7SeKHP9xOV8/V_mbC0H9-JI/AAAAAAAAVPQ/DFuxjgBXVxoouUOjKIRi02yGp8IEjNo-ACLcB/s1600/20161006_084019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7SeKHP9xOV8/V_mbC0H9-JI/AAAAAAAAVPQ/DFuxjgBXVxoouUOjKIRi02yGp8IEjNo-ACLcB/s320/20161006_084019.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading for the ferry on fast open roads.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_m-H5WiEeoA/V_mGWG--EfI/AAAAAAAAVN8/P3t311dsh_4usKztu_aWcazD4kHGKhx-wCLcB/s1600/P1010600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_m-H5WiEeoA/V_mGWG--EfI/AAAAAAAAVN8/P3t311dsh_4usKztu_aWcazD4kHGKhx-wCLcB/s320/P1010600.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sailing home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After an all-too-brief stay in Fox Bay, we headed north again for the ferry back to the East.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gGtqVVnEKrM/V_mGXLmPUZI/AAAAAAAAVOA/GOv5oQmVU3keWAJUaAm-Ba8k5J54PiLGACLcB/s1600/P1010601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gGtqVVnEKrM/V_mGXLmPUZI/AAAAAAAAVOA/GOv5oQmVU3keWAJUaAm-Ba8k5J54PiLGACLcB/s320/P1010601.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Missing the West already</td></tr>
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<br />
A wonderful trip, despite the fog. And an opportunity to briefly meet some friendly farmers for whom the West is home, and who shared their home with us. Lastly, thanks to fellow-travellers for photos, transport and great week.<br />
<br />
More soon<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-46452067044215441442016-09-18T11:30:00.001-07:002016-09-18T11:30:10.418-07:00Sea Lion; See Elephant Seals....[This is an occasional look at life on the Falkland Islands from the point of view of British expats. One of the reasons my wife and I wanted to live here was the incredible wildlife, so last week, we had a short trip to one of the "jewels in the crown" of outlying islands where the wildlife just gets on with life, and ignores humans........]<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cBkfMmDebco/V96bJ1BYjAI/AAAAAAAAVFo/nlI6Yk2O3jYtfOak-D1m3v6ZCzT9z1cNQCLcB/s1600/P1010142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cBkfMmDebco/V96bJ1BYjAI/AAAAAAAAVFo/nlI6Yk2O3jYtfOak-D1m3v6ZCzT9z1cNQCLcB/s320/P1010142.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
By the way, I should say I am incredibly flattered that many people around the world look at this blog. It was only started as a means to let friends back in the UK know what we were up to in the South Atlantic, but I now see from recent statistics that I have readers all over the place! Below is a list of the Top Ten countries by views in the last week -<br />
<br />
United Kingdom<br />
Ireland ("Hello, Ireland!" Where have you been?)<br />
United States<br />
Falkland Islands<br />
Russia<br />
France<br />
Germany<br />
India<br />
Ukraine<br />
Argentina<br />
<br />
If I look at the views per month, St Helena and Cayman Islands, two remote British Overseas Territories, also feature. So, "Hello" to you guys, too, and anyone else that reads this.<br />
<br />
Enough waffle. We had booked our flight on FIGAS, a government air taxi service. Our checkin was at 11am, so in the morning we packed and left the house about 10:50! We and our bags were weighed, and we took off about 11:30, after waiting on the apron while two RAF Typhoon jets completed their Saturday morning exercises above the runway!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C5yTrDI7Qpc/V97SYHwX-zI/AAAAAAAAVGU/-0ozRw3p9dc0sWoaGh5WDFY3UuE0iosbwCLcB/s1600/20160910_121912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C5yTrDI7Qpc/V97SYHwX-zI/AAAAAAAAVGU/-0ozRw3p9dc0sWoaGh5WDFY3UuE0iosbwCLcB/s320/20160910_121912.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typhoons at 11 o'clock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fBOeNA_MYtI/V96awHfwboI/AAAAAAAAVD0/vCzs8vSNJ3ony7vrsVP0jqoMJrNc-kTMACLcB/s1600/P1000828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fBOeNA_MYtI/V96awHfwboI/AAAAAAAAVD0/vCzs8vSNJ3ony7vrsVP0jqoMJrNc-kTMACLcB/s320/P1000828.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west over Stanley Harbour.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lSZvBPYg3bs/V96awpwodJI/AAAAAAAAVD8/zYHBHCUTEMAhuHydF99QBhfLlVEVqCcQQCLcB/s1600/P1000864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lSZvBPYg3bs/V96awpwodJI/AAAAAAAAVD8/zYHBHCUTEMAhuHydF99QBhfLlVEVqCcQQCLcB/s320/P1000864.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Within 5 minutes walk of our Lodge</td></tr>
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After about 45 minutes in the air, we landed at Sea Lion Island, and walked the 50 metres to the Lodge. The manager welcomed us, and told us we were the only guests that weekend! Pausing only to have a light lunch, we were soon back on the beach, and coming face-to-face with the main attraction - Southern Elephant Seals. 3 tonnes of blubber and muscle, who annually arrive here to fight other males, and breed.<br />
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This guy wobbled back into the sea when he saw us, and we thought we had frightened him.....<br />
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Far from it. He followed us for about a mile, along the whole length of the beach, swimming parallel to us just a few yards offshore.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z5gAmVOe5qE/V96aygApmiI/AAAAAAAAVEE/LFRU14OsgEI62eMsaM-9d6q7Vu6GHO5JgCLcB/s1600/P1000875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z5gAmVOe5qE/V96aygApmiI/AAAAAAAAVEE/LFRU14OsgEI62eMsaM-9d6q7Vu6GHO5JgCLcB/s320/P1000875.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
We passed huge colonies of Gentoo penguins that are resident all year round, and then headed through the sand dunes to see who else had arrived.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Td7dnttR98I/V96a0YHY5zI/AAAAAAAAVEI/N6bkt_n3yR8D4ZOjd9lNBBB7eYXuJ8ERQCLcB/s1600/P1000897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Td7dnttR98I/V96a0YHY5zI/AAAAAAAAVEI/N6bkt_n3yR8D4ZOjd9lNBBB7eYXuJ8ERQCLcB/s320/P1000897.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female seal making use of the shelter</td></tr>
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<br />
The seals are monitored by a team of Italian scientists, who spend six months of the year on the Island counting, weighing and observing the seals. More information and fantastic photos can be found at their Facebook page -<br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/eleseal.org/?fref=ts" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/eleseal.org/?fref=ts</a><br />
<br />
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<br />
We soon came across some big boys dozing in the dunes.<br />
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And the scientists were trying to take tissue samples or, if they recognised the seal, spraying their "name" on them, to make them easy to identify as they roam the beaches in coming weeks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VHpYK5W4nGs/V97Sa03q5ZI/AAAAAAAAVGg/WxYDLyYMzUAq7g3_fJqKY_N0HfWMfBqWgCLcB/s1600/20160910_181853-001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VHpYK5W4nGs/V97Sa03q5ZI/AAAAAAAAVGg/WxYDLyYMzUAq7g3_fJqKY_N0HfWMfBqWgCLcB/s320/20160910_181853-001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scientists on a log watching a seal shelter...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5PAEgOVLBAY/V96a0mgVy2I/AAAAAAAAVEM/s5tKAid2FZoPM5wPLc1TJGXkeObu6jg6QCLcB/s1600/P1000900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5PAEgOVLBAY/V96a0mgVy2I/AAAAAAAAVEM/s5tKAid2FZoPM5wPLc1TJGXkeObu6jg6QCLcB/s320/P1000900.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice teeth</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were also some vantage points above the beach if you wanted to get close. I relied on a powerful zoom lens....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OFuQW4kRkvk/V97SYk6GxKI/AAAAAAAAVGY/05azY8CtLvQ0wR9dm7R9Mw2xvxhwVH3LQCLcB/s1600/20160910_163116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OFuQW4kRkvk/V97SYk6GxKI/AAAAAAAAVGY/05azY8CtLvQ0wR9dm7R9Mw2xvxhwVH3LQCLcB/s320/20160910_163116.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female emerging from the sea, and me avoiding getting between the male and female.....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J0wA3rhba1s/V97Sa14tYfI/AAAAAAAAVGc/MXbuJ1NWn_kHeoZbkd0FmqukhIKEmWDDwCLcB/s1600/20160910_163348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J0wA3rhba1s/V97Sa14tYfI/AAAAAAAAVGc/MXbuJ1NWn_kHeoZbkd0FmqukhIKEmWDDwCLcB/s320/20160910_163348.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The male showing an interest in the new female....</td></tr>
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<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MlzqESmsjJM/V96a2yLCZGI/AAAAAAAAVEU/xBdmnMgstD8DWw3dTUNuElBSqbY1Kh9TwCLcB/s1600/P1000935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MlzqESmsjJM/V96a2yLCZGI/AAAAAAAAVEU/xBdmnMgstD8DWw3dTUNuElBSqbY1Kh9TwCLcB/s320/P1000935.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How would you like to wake up next to this?</td></tr>
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We only saw a couple of females, but have since heard that one has given birth to the first pup. Soon hundreds will be born there. The females will then mate with a dominant bull, and return to sea, leaving the pup on its own, living off its puppy fat, built up from the richest milk in the world.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDJYt0LaXJw/V96a3jXuSFI/AAAAAAAAVEY/TkJ83e2ggAcnHeTeUFQE9you1JaFhy4TwCLcB/s1600/P1000936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDJYt0LaXJw/V96a3jXuSFI/AAAAAAAAVEY/TkJ83e2ggAcnHeTeUFQE9you1JaFhy4TwCLcB/s320/P1000936.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">But Sea Lion Island has so much more. In the 1850s, when fur seals were almost extinct due to the actions of the sealers, penguins became a target for their oil. This contraption above is the remains of where penguins were boiled down for their oil - 1 pint per penguin. Millions were killed in a few decades.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ov7lGhrEK-U/V96a50MnovI/AAAAAAAAVEg/JJxHcEZwxyE3lJi29S5-AinDub05y_haQCLcB/s1600/P1000947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ov7lGhrEK-U/V96a50MnovI/AAAAAAAAVEg/JJxHcEZwxyE3lJi29S5-AinDub05y_haQCLcB/s320/P1000947.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying Falklands Steamer Duck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_Xaz3sRsUi4/V96bGitYO7I/AAAAAAAAVFc/XqREItoHmhU4li6HYLQn1-u1q8UoglGiACLcB/s1600/P1010105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_Xaz3sRsUi4/V96bGitYO7I/AAAAAAAAVFc/XqREItoHmhU4li6HYLQn1-u1q8UoglGiACLcB/s320/P1010105.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flightless Falklands Steamer Duck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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But the birdlife has recovered and is spectacular, especially in Spring. Winter is still clinging on here, so we saw no Rockhopper penguins, or Skuas, but the resident birds were a delight.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bBWuo8MNAYg/V96a6UH8i0I/AAAAAAAAVEk/ghmn_R0sRgw8R_1BiMszqFGu3PZFsrS5gCLcB/s1600/P1000957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bBWuo8MNAYg/V96a6UH8i0I/AAAAAAAAVEk/ghmn_R0sRgw8R_1BiMszqFGu3PZFsrS5gCLcB/s320/P1000957.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striated Caracara</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--npL0XI21Ms/V96a61uo3oI/AAAAAAAAVEo/jwk01oEdV4UhGBhlQ8V54_BGgfItveS5QCLcB/s1600/P1000959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--npL0XI21Ms/V96a61uo3oI/AAAAAAAAVEo/jwk01oEdV4UhGBhlQ8V54_BGgfItveS5QCLcB/s320/P1000959.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sealions on Sealion Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Pwck3Z8ElY/V96a8Ch6MnI/AAAAAAAAVEs/Q7Ym_iojnQEdmr_Zm-QrYipM8AS2L1ALwCLcB/s1600/P1000960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Pwck3Z8ElY/V96a8Ch6MnI/AAAAAAAAVEs/Q7Ym_iojnQEdmr_Zm-QrYipM8AS2L1ALwCLcB/s320/P1000960.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picnic, with Lodge in distance, and caracaras near. Sealions below.</td></tr>
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We found a sheltered spot for a picnic lunch overlooking a beach which sealions like. Sure enough, a couple of massive bulls were dozing and grooming about 10 metres below us<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qe__9OccJE8/V96a9EtDsHI/AAAAAAAAVEw/G5OJ_JhJREErtwPG7Ug39Bcj1RMyUyYjACLcB/s1600/P1000968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qe__9OccJE8/V96a9EtDsHI/AAAAAAAAVEw/G5OJ_JhJREErtwPG7Ug39Bcj1RMyUyYjACLcB/s320/P1000968.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yDQXZyExXWk/V96a-L77OdI/AAAAAAAAVE0/MIqHf0xQCfk08Xuid4lyMAiMmb6zaV9kwCLcB/s1600/P1000990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yDQXZyExXWk/V96a-L77OdI/AAAAAAAAVE0/MIqHf0xQCfk08Xuid4lyMAiMmb6zaV9kwCLcB/s320/P1000990.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
But while we enjoyed the show, the fearless Caracaras came ever closer, looking for food or anything they could steal.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQEsTEiOtUs/V96a-vu4lsI/AAAAAAAAVE4/1x5vS4_LLz0GVDZFivf5CBggKXV_hlByQCLcB/s1600/P1000993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQEsTEiOtUs/V96a-vu4lsI/AAAAAAAAVE4/1x5vS4_LLz0GVDZFivf5CBggKXV_hlByQCLcB/s320/P1000993.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Our Nordic Walking poles saved us a few times, as the birds tried to work our how to grapple with this new prey species they had found - us!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RnqEdRKQO7w/V97SbmBkcNI/AAAAAAAAVGk/cFE5Gpe3_Y4Xs_BBnDocQOIIKgzleCBjQCLcB/s1600/20160911_135857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RnqEdRKQO7w/V97SbmBkcNI/AAAAAAAAVGk/cFE5Gpe3_Y4Xs_BBnDocQOIIKgzleCBjQCLcB/s320/20160911_135857.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Circling the prey - us!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wfQS4FQDNp4/V97SeFOJbQI/AAAAAAAAVGs/fl8JxytqQMwMtmhHOH7SxYoU7KYpYn75ACLcB/s1600/20160911_141119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wfQS4FQDNp4/V97SeFOJbQI/AAAAAAAAVGs/fl8JxytqQMwMtmhHOH7SxYoU7KYpYn75ACLcB/s320/20160911_141119.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IeJGghJkxtU/V96bAZOXfZI/AAAAAAAAVE8/0vnImM7IuaY0Ryrx2JHGnuJy6VByZjN8gCLcB/s1600/P1010011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IeJGghJkxtU/V96bAZOXfZI/AAAAAAAAVE8/0vnImM7IuaY0Ryrx2JHGnuJy6VByZjN8gCLcB/s320/P1010011.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
They attack prey - usually penguin chicks - by running at them, and they tried the same tactics on us!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9zioyJQIXxg/V96bBfGQ__I/AAAAAAAAVFE/VAqLMpGwkowDqby7ECh_qlCYktTVhBXxgCLcB/s1600/P1010023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9zioyJQIXxg/V96bBfGQ__I/AAAAAAAAVFE/VAqLMpGwkowDqby7ECh_qlCYktTVhBXxgCLcB/s320/P1010023.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Endemic Cobb's Wren</td></tr>
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While we were keeping an eye on the Caracaras (also called "Jonny Rook" on the islands), a tiny Cobbs Wren popped up from underneath a rock. These birds are unique to the Falklands and only found where there are no cats, rats or mice.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OCS6feqpfNc/V96bCq7r_lI/AAAAAAAAVFI/dveF5kzCluMbR_1SsEogokeM_ufRMnZpwCLcB/s1600/P1010051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OCS6feqpfNc/V96bCq7r_lI/AAAAAAAAVFI/dveF5kzCluMbR_1SsEogokeM_ufRMnZpwCLcB/s320/P1010051.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grooming</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3s2klhIKY3Y/V96bDZYQIJI/AAAAAAAAVFQ/MTG--IiOd8g6D2VbqYqfnXcM0WMGwyIfwCLcB/s1600/P1010053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3s2klhIKY3Y/V96bDZYQIJI/AAAAAAAAVFQ/MTG--IiOd8g6D2VbqYqfnXcM0WMGwyIfwCLcB/s320/P1010053.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Velociraptor?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nxegighJlGc/V96bDKVuY3I/AAAAAAAAVFM/zuyKIXYZJvkQvbldc1pKtWyJHw90DdUrwCLcB/s1600/P1010077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nxegighJlGc/V96bDKVuY3I/AAAAAAAAVFM/zuyKIXYZJvkQvbldc1pKtWyJHw90DdUrwCLcB/s320/P1010077.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowy Sheathbill</td></tr>
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There were plenty of other birds, too. Eventually we found some early-returning Magellanic penguins, making their burrow neat before the arrival of their mate from her winter holidays in Brazil!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B_7JWUYoFfY/V96bFiMGQsI/AAAAAAAAVFY/Xejkw1ZpWRYomV4PeRD8jOV_tkI4uHwAgCLcB/s1600/P1010104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B_7JWUYoFfY/V96bFiMGQsI/AAAAAAAAVFY/Xejkw1ZpWRYomV4PeRD8jOV_tkI4uHwAgCLcB/s320/P1010104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to give birth to a 30kg pup.....</td></tr>
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I have just seen on the Elephant Seal Research Group's Facebook page that they have sighted Orcas today. Pods of Orcas patrol the islands and some are expert at taking pup from rock pools.<br />
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As usual, we didn't see any, but we may be lucky on another visit,<br />
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What we did see was amazing. All too soon, a little Britten-Norman Islander arrived to take us back to Stanley<br />
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The sky was cloudless and the sea crystal-clear as we tried to spot dolphins or whales on the way home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QpJOCA4mOHY/V97SdykRgdI/AAAAAAAAVGo/j16xBFMBWwsevYYwueKH7Ixaj-Mu6jkzwCLcB/s1600/20160912_115240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QpJOCA4mOHY/V97SdykRgdI/AAAAAAAAVGo/j16xBFMBWwsevYYwueKH7Ixaj-Mu6jkzwCLcB/s320/20160912_115240.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lady Elizabeth, stuck at the end of the harbour. Arrived 1912</td></tr>
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Soon, we were back in Stanley. The airport must be one of the quickest to get through in the world. Ten minutes later we were home, checking behind the sofa for any stray elephant seals. But all we had brought back were memories and photographs....<br />
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Peter.<br />
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peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-24675848527337272682016-09-03T19:23:00.001-07:002016-09-03T19:23:24.966-07:00Bleaker in Winter?[This is the blog of two Brits, happily marooned on the remote Falkland Islands, near South America, for a number of years. We are lucky enough to work here, and the opportunities for wildlife watching - one of our favourite pastimes - are amongst the best in the world. This week, we took a 30-minute flight from Stanley, the capital, to a quiet island, Bleaker. It was still winter, and few penguins around, but still lots of wildlife.....]<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OjVOM9daaPc/V8s2JJsoyVI/AAAAAAAAU_Y/vBWcoMk2YfgtdzfwrGMuH--hzk7WX2_sACLcB/s1600/P1000541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OjVOM9daaPc/V8s2JJsoyVI/AAAAAAAAU_Y/vBWcoMk2YfgtdzfwrGMuH--hzk7WX2_sACLcB/s320/P1000541.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west along Stanley harbour. FIPASS in foreground. Narrows (harbour entrance) on right</td></tr>
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FIPASS (Falklands Interim Port And Storage System) was a short-term solution to the lack of docking facilities after the 1982 war. It is still used by fishing trawlers and small cruise ships as well as fishery protection vessels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kxs92E4KJII/V8s2JIC8DuI/AAAAAAAAU_U/gc7LoUNWw0kXrHUMf6mPFF1XwRTbmNd0QCLcB/s1600/P1000556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kxs92E4KJII/V8s2JIC8DuI/AAAAAAAAU_U/gc7LoUNWw0kXrHUMf6mPFF1XwRTbmNd0QCLcB/s320/P1000556.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bleaker Sandy beach, home for hundreds of penguins.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Soon we were looking down on what has been rated one of the Top Ten Beaches in the World. It is normally busy with penguins, but it is a few weeks too early for migrating penguins coming home to breed, and the resident penguins are mostly offshore feeding.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2J2TG9wtp7Y/V8s2I76ySBI/AAAAAAAAU_Q/s1uXWro4tSUcVWDAvTNkkS7XN8pQB9pqACLcB/s1600/P1000564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2J2TG9wtp7Y/V8s2I76ySBI/AAAAAAAAU_Q/s1uXWro4tSUcVWDAvTNkkS7XN8pQB9pqACLcB/s320/P1000564.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cobbs Cottage </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The island is about 20 miles long and 1 mile wide. Near the centre is a small settlement with the usual farm buildings - shearing shed, manager's house; but also a couple of purpose-built self-catering cottages. We were the only visitors for two days, so had the place to ourselves, apart from the hospitable owners, and the wildlife.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IfJD0XnB0U/V8s2QTvdbUI/AAAAAAAAU_0/HYKhVo3rfs40jhBzRykQJcxZ6rnwFOdxACLcB/s1600/P1000671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IfJD0XnB0U/V8s2QTvdbUI/AAAAAAAAU_0/HYKhVo3rfs40jhBzRykQJcxZ6rnwFOdxACLcB/s640/P1000671.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bleaker settlement</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are sheep and beef cattle on the island, but we had come for the fresh air, gentle walking and the chance to watch native wildlife closeup.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V8cvwElDR_I/V8s2SahiHXI/AAAAAAAAU_8/6qqvtqgBLwsQ8n5o8T7q58wMX9dtUyxjACLcB/s1600/P1000680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V8cvwElDR_I/V8s2SahiHXI/AAAAAAAAU_8/6qqvtqgBLwsQ8n5o8T7q58wMX9dtUyxjACLcB/s320/P1000680.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">No shortage of sunlight or wind....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We didn't have long to wait. After about 15 minutes strolling along the tussac-grassed coast, we stumbled (literally) across a small group of Sea Lions. I'm not sure who was more surprised. Once we had retreated to a safe distance, the bull of the group decided to watch us while we had a picnic on the beach.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1bYjECBGbXA/V8s2PEikRuI/AAAAAAAAU_s/AhOQWN27fn8BDOtt7J_8dDddrrEt7DtjQCLcB/s1600/P1000595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1bYjECBGbXA/V8s2PEikRuI/AAAAAAAAU_s/AhOQWN27fn8BDOtt7J_8dDddrrEt7DtjQCLcB/s320/P1000595.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bull Sea Lion and Pale-faced Sheathbill</td></tr>
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While we ate our sandwiches, another sea lion popped up to see who was disturbing the peace.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IhtflWG3wnY/V8s2O0sVvEI/AAAAAAAAU_o/zl8vaTy2lYAUFD7vsDg-WWHu2wgusd9gQCLcB/s1600/P1000615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IhtflWG3wnY/V8s2O0sVvEI/AAAAAAAAU_o/zl8vaTy2lYAUFD7vsDg-WWHu2wgusd9gQCLcB/s320/P1000615.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Female sea lion</td></tr>
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But beyond the sea lions, we suddenly noticed some black fins cutting through the kelp. We thought they were dolphins, but as we got a better view of them, we felt they were almost double the size of the local dolphins. On later checking some field guides, I suspect they were pilot whales, but it's difficult to tell without seeing them close or with other sea mammals nearby.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gCeVER9GPvs/V8s2MOkF_bI/AAAAAAAAU_g/yL6wi3SrMrYk3FU2Bjz97x24rgOCX7pegCLcB/s1600/P1000583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gCeVER9GPvs/V8s2MOkF_bI/AAAAAAAAU_g/yL6wi3SrMrYk3FU2Bjz97x24rgOCX7pegCLcB/s320/P1000583.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Either Pilot whales or Peale's dolphins</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As far as we could see, they were all black, but the two local dolphin species, Commerson's and Peale's have grey or white markings .<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--2RAspSBKVo/V8s2MMTM8BI/AAAAAAAAU_k/NsKqG-mPyRIssVmn59oxbvpAoqyVpgoowCLcB/s1600/P1000592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--2RAspSBKVo/V8s2MMTM8BI/AAAAAAAAU_k/NsKqG-mPyRIssVmn59oxbvpAoqyVpgoowCLcB/s320/P1000592.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilot Whales?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aF9u-i3RRt0/V8s2P6n8j3I/AAAAAAAAU_w/R96RGEVzgtcqhOrG_A6_zOonbVkfha0UgCLcB/s1600/P1000660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aF9u-i3RRt0/V8s2P6n8j3I/AAAAAAAAU_w/R96RGEVzgtcqhOrG_A6_zOonbVkfha0UgCLcB/s320/P1000660.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striated Caracara, or Johnny Rooks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Whatever they were, they were a joy to watch, as they patrolled the small inlet. </div>
<br />
Even without the mammal sightings, we would have been happy with the multitude of birds that we saw. Not that many in number, but a large cross-section of the native birds of the Falklands.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GsrHyy4FPJk/V8s2L1C5WlI/AAAAAAAAU_c/YH-rjojTpWgmG65dZwzDxgNYzNvwMr6LgCLcB/s1600/P1000575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GsrHyy4FPJk/V8s2L1C5WlI/AAAAAAAAU_c/YH-rjojTpWgmG65dZwzDxgNYzNvwMr6LgCLcB/s320/P1000575.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Male Steamer Duck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We can see the Falklands' Flightless Steamer Duck in Stanley Harbour, but it is a welcome sight anywhere. But you can only see it on these islands! Nowhere else in the world!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TCumJNO6Kuo/V8s2RWOcQGI/AAAAAAAAU_4/BbqFRbt6lBEfhiOp7vqHxBgs2y_k-bTuACLcB/s1600/P1000661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TCumJNO6Kuo/V8s2RWOcQGI/AAAAAAAAU_4/BbqFRbt6lBEfhiOp7vqHxBgs2y_k-bTuACLcB/s320/P1000661.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speckled Teal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of our favourites is the very shy, black-necked swan. Unusually for Falklands birds, these don't like you getting too close and tend to paddle in the opposite direction as soon as they catch sight of you. But this was the first time we had seen them without cygnets, so perhaps they were a bit more relaxed, and we managed to get a couple of good sightings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X9XTw6nU1Uk/V8s2Srr3KlI/AAAAAAAAVAA/JvGjnaEinV8ZrxhkVpL2_Jxg1VScuyOhACLcB/s1600/P1000689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X9XTw6nU1Uk/V8s2Srr3KlI/AAAAAAAAVAA/JvGjnaEinV8ZrxhkVpL2_Jxg1VScuyOhACLcB/s320/P1000689.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-necked swan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Sheathbill is a normally a visitor from Antarctica, and struts around penguin colonies living off tasty tidbits in the penguin droppings or intercepting food being regurgitated from the adult bird to the chick! Looking like an albino pigeon, the Sheathbill is unlike every other Antarctic bird in that it does not have webbed feet, so how it makes the 600+ mile journey from Antarctic without getting its feet wet is beyond me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--EnoSaKr6n0/V8s2Tsouj8I/AAAAAAAAVAE/_AqBqRr-VC8tOLTx8A2q1_pFmkX7s01twCLcB/s1600/P1000692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--EnoSaKr6n0/V8s2Tsouj8I/AAAAAAAAVAE/_AqBqRr-VC8tOLTx8A2q1_pFmkX7s01twCLcB/s320/P1000692.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pale-faced Sheathbill - remarkable bird</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All too soon, we were heading back to the airport to await the Islander aircraft arrive on the grass airstrip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gm42T-mt2dA/V8s2UndK5TI/AAAAAAAAVAI/TB1JGiV-xd0wGLcFUXRJBvGCEncMBMVoQCLcB/s1600/P1000693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gm42T-mt2dA/V8s2UndK5TI/AAAAAAAAVAI/TB1JGiV-xd0wGLcFUXRJBvGCEncMBMVoQCLcB/s320/P1000693.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bleaker airport, with either Customs or Immigration on the roof</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The landing strip was cleared of sheep, geese, and giant petrels as we watched the small, red plane approach, land gently and taxi towards us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m8F5EdMlwTY/V8s2VJi_K4I/AAAAAAAAVAM/_VHYP_CJxNAfKbLpbrpE_ZTkXGuOs7duACLcB/s1600/P1000698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m8F5EdMlwTY/V8s2VJi_K4I/AAAAAAAAVAM/_VHYP_CJxNAfKbLpbrpE_ZTkXGuOs7duACLcB/s320/P1000698.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Streamlined baggage-handling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Soon we were flying eastwards above Stanley Harbour viewing familiar streets from unfamiliar angles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TF5YNVvVopM/V8s2V_srYxI/AAAAAAAAVAQ/IWdG-U6-KnAywC-VFozYi90J12jb87BswCLcB/s1600/P1000716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TF5YNVvVopM/V8s2V_srYxI/AAAAAAAAVAQ/IWdG-U6-KnAywC-VFozYi90J12jb87BswCLcB/s320/P1000716.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think that's the Pharos leaving the harbour.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A lovely short break to recharge the batteries and enjoy some of the best wildlife in the islands. Our thanks to hosts Mike and Phyl.<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Peterpeterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-10179493879747696002016-08-27T14:34:00.000-07:002016-08-27T14:34:43.580-07:00Tasmania - Convict country.....[Part 2 of more than 2. We are a couple of British expats living and working on the Falklands. Occasionally, though, we manage to explore other parts of the southern hemisphere. This time, we had flown around the globe to Australia, and were exploring the stunning state of Tasmania.....]<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xjh4UjqjEiI/Vzx1g34DoTI/AAAAAAAAUXA/cT-zAYwS4N0x6zwsLOoZbJCfGKRtt3D9gCLcB/s1600/DSC_3213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xjh4UjqjEiI/Vzx1g34DoTI/AAAAAAAAUXA/cT-zAYwS4N0x6zwsLOoZbJCfGKRtt3D9gCLcB/s320/DSC_3213.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Smaller than the Bass Strait ferry. The Fatman on the Pieman...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Soon we were across, and again travelling through the familiar, dense forest. After a couple of hours, the landscape cleared, and we approached the harbour town of Strahan - home of Atlantic salmon (!) and Tasmania's first penal colony........<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S8gLms52NG4/Vzx26vksFrI/AAAAAAAAUXY/gQ7iZd6iLq84ZbjQmdylr7ILqTibfCk1gCLcB/s1600/DSC_3245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S8gLms52NG4/Vzx26vksFrI/AAAAAAAAUXY/gQ7iZd6iLq84ZbjQmdylr7ILqTibfCk1gCLcB/s320/DSC_3245.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bonnet Island - home of Little penguins.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Strahan is a pleasant waterfront place, catering for tourists now that the mining and timber industries that caused it to be established have largely gone. It sits on the shores of MacQuarie Harbour, which is bigger than Sydney harbour, but has the disadvantage of having a tiny, rocky entrance, known as Hell's Gate. On the plus side, the unpolluted, sheltered water makes it ideal for fishing companies to farm trout and imported Atlantic salmon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ounKV5mikao/Vzx26tcFPZI/AAAAAAAAUXU/584dwBqL5KMc_h2GTLnxQ93Iy8A5Re2fQCLcB/s1600/DSC_3279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ounKV5mikao/Vzx26tcFPZI/AAAAAAAAUXU/584dwBqL5KMc_h2GTLnxQ93Iy8A5Re2fQCLcB/s320/DSC_3279.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Hell's Gate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
About 60 years before Strahan was founded, in 1822, Sarah Island in the harbour was deemed to be the perfect spot to establish a punishment penal colony - for convicts who couldn't be held by other prisons. It was hundreds of miles, over impenetrable forested mountains, from the nearest settlements on Tasmania. Escape was supposed to be impossible.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t3HkqEBUAD0/Vzx26i4pihI/AAAAAAAAUXQ/OhEd5RYI8KIp8cm1q_bgL6B528wQUwVKgCLcB/s1600/DSC_3300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t3HkqEBUAD0/Vzx26i4pihI/AAAAAAAAUXQ/OhEd5RYI8KIp8cm1q_bgL6B528wQUwVKgCLcB/s320/DSC_3300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sarah Island - Tassie's first penal colony.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Punishments were so severe that one prisoners killed another prisoner so that he could be executed, and escape the regime. Another prisoner, Matthew Brady, escaped twice: each time surviving in the bush by eating his fellow escapees. Sitting round their camp fire at night must have been tense!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dsWxJCA6VuQ/Vzx28chxaVI/AAAAAAAAUXg/sziKg4rBuEkqpNA8HYkcO3lI7xP5TpwvgCLcB/s1600/DSC_3304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dsWxJCA6VuQ/Vzx28chxaVI/AAAAAAAAUXg/sziKg4rBuEkqpNA8HYkcO3lI7xP5TpwvgCLcB/s320/DSC_3304.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Remnants of the shipyard.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But, over time, the regime softened, and the prisoners became skilled and productive shipbuilders. Work parties logged the native (and waterproof) Huon pine, and floated it down the Gordon River to the prison. The prison became the busiest shipyard in Australia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FJpco7dCKOg/Vzx28NqbiPI/AAAAAAAAUXc/LGQLAebR4_U1FH1tim5wo9iVvNRKc371gCLcB/s1600/DSC_3337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FJpco7dCKOg/Vzx28NqbiPI/AAAAAAAAUXc/LGQLAebR4_U1FH1tim5wo9iVvNRKc371gCLcB/s320/DSC_3337.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Gordon River.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Their story is hilariously re-enacted every night in an open-air theatre in Strahan. "The Ship That Never Was" is one of the most entertaining productions I have ever seen, and it is the longest-running play in Australia. I won't spoil the plot, but the actors (and participating members of the audience), bring alive the true story of the last ship built there, and the 10,000-mile escape attempt to Chile! In 1833, the colony was closed and prisoners moved to Port Arthur near Hobart (of which, more later).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NMkfr8E_v3k/VzYqhMR2ahI/AAAAAAAAT_w/EAB8fe3IaYwDAXCW53j4XmDxBPQUh0tfgCLcB/s1600/20160424_185841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NMkfr8E_v3k/VzYqhMR2ahI/AAAAAAAAT_w/EAB8fe3IaYwDAXCW53j4XmDxBPQUh0tfgCLcB/s320/20160424_185841.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The regular cast of "The Ship That Never Was"</td></tr>
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The next day, we drove the incredibly twisty roads over high mountain passes. How the early pioneers and prospectors, not to mention the Aborigines, navigated this trackless wilderness was beyond me. By the way, we saw two Little (or Fairy) penguins at Strahan, but like most wildlife, they only appear in the dark, so photography was not really an option.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Ross - another historic stone town.</td></tr>
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Once clear of the mountains in the west, it became obvious that the farming belt was having a drought. Fields were parched, and we later heard that it was the driest year on record. It was also unseasonally warm - in the mid 20s centigrade - but luckily, a few days after we left, it snowed across the island! (The island also had the worst floods in 100 years in June).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kKgb000EuxQ/VzYqie7EHqI/AAAAAAAAT_0/N7hWo4hM8bMkSBK3EeprT7a7bnAsjnTwgCLcB/s1600/20160426_064516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kKgb000EuxQ/VzYqie7EHqI/AAAAAAAAT_0/N7hWo4hM8bMkSBK3EeprT7a7bnAsjnTwgCLcB/s320/20160426_064516.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Swansea sunset. Not the Welsh one.</td></tr>
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Tasmania was also suffering from the loss of a power and internet cable to 'mainland' Australia. Diesel generators were having to be used to augment power supplies as the hydro-electric dams (controversially built on wild rivers) were at a low level. Internet access was slow and patchy. We felt at home!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Wineglass Bay, Freycinet peninsula.</td></tr>
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After a long, relaxed drive, on two-lane roads, from the west to the east coast, we explored the Freycinet peninsula for a couple of days. This unspoilt peninsula comprises mostly low, granite mountains, pristine sandy beaches and a myriad of hiking trails.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UAjDPWjpM0w/VzzHUduXYqI/AAAAAAAAUX0/OklCMpSP6XM8FpizsaMCQYHEiLkUP3WOACLcB/s1600/DSC_3416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UAjDPWjpM0w/VzzHUduXYqI/AAAAAAAAUX0/OklCMpSP6XM8FpizsaMCQYHEiLkUP3WOACLcB/s320/DSC_3416.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Eroded granite boulders, Freycinet National Park</td></tr>
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Although the much-photographed Wineglass Bay is an obvious destination, there are several quiet beaches, some with camping and others reached by walking.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Hazard Mountains</td></tr>
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The clear waters support an oyster industry, and it used to be a whaling centre. Now visitors come for whale-watching rather than hunting.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Swansea sunset.</td></tr>
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We stayed at a nearby village called "Swansea". Perhaps some Welsh convicts, transported to Tasmania, were feeling homesick?<br />
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Heading south, we visited the famous ruins of the Port Arthur penal colony. This is a massive site - basically a self-contained town - and we could have spent a few days exploring, but, as usual, we had underestimated the time needed to explore Tasmania.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Port Arthur penitentiary</span></td></tr>
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The island/state is about 30% of the size of Great Britain, or a bit smaller than the island of Ireland. But has a population of 500,000. On our travels, we saw no Aboriginal people as we had done on previous visits in the Northern Territory, around Darwin and Alice Springs. When convict ships arrived, food was required for the new population, and kangaroos and emus were literally "easy meat" for hunters with dogs and muskets. Within a few years, they were wiped out on Tasmania, causing conflict with the Aborigines. Within a few decades, Aboriginal people were endangered, too. Systematic round-ups, such as the "Black Line", as well as diseases and forced relocations, eventually saw them all but wiped out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Derwent River from Mt Wellington. Tasman Highway, centre.</td></tr>
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We left the sombre Port Arthur and headed for a few days in the capital, Hobart. The scenery around the small city is stunning. I regret not doing the 20-mile downhill bike ride from the top of Mt Wellington back to the centre of town, but the views we saw were great, too.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Derwent River from Mt Wellington</td></tr>
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Hobart has a beautiful and busy harbour, finish of the annual Sydney-Hobart yacht race, and the starting point for many expeditions to Antarctica. The old stone docks and warehouses are now trendy restaurants and bars and apartments. On Saturdays, the main street is closed to traffic and the massive Salamanca market takes over for the day, offering every possibly craft creation or Tassie tidbit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Salamanca Market, Hobart, with Mt Wellington in distance</td></tr>
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Hundreds of stalls display amazing craftwork, or handmade clothes, or specialist food. The choice is dazzling.<br />
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We wandered around the harbour, past the many seafood restaurants to a place we had come to Hobart to see. The Australian pioneer of Antarctic exploration was Douglas Mawson, who had turned down the invitation to join Captain Scott's ill-fated dash for the South Pole, to lead an eploration expedition for Australia.<br />
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His original hut is still in situ in Antarctica and is being repaired by a team of volunteers. To raise money for this expensive maintenance, an exact replica of the hut has been created on the harbourside in Hobart.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Mawson's bunk, Mawson's Hut</td></tr>
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It provides a fascinating insight into the lives and work of early polar pioneers, and we were lucky enough to have on hand some guides in the museum who had spent most of their working lives in Antarctica. Their knowledge was fascinating, and we discovered we had some mutual acquaintances in the Falklands. Small world!<br />
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More on Australia soon,<br />
Peter</div>
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<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-8335746929386623222016-05-24T05:04:00.000-07:002016-05-24T05:04:18.041-07:00Exploring Van Diemen's Land - on the Road to Nowhere.....[An occasional glimpse into our expat lives in the South Atlantic. This month, we ventured to the other side of the world, Australia, to see family and friends. We left Stanley on Saturday morning, and arrived in Western Australia on Tuesday afternoon!.....]<br />
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The flight was roughly 10,800 miles. (London is about 8,000 miles (12,000km) away from the Falklands). It would have been 2,000 miles shorter taking the direct route over the South Pole, but emergency runways may have been few and far between.....<br />
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I will detail other parts of the trip on separate blogs, but this part started when we boarded the "Spirit of Tasmania" in Melbourne one evening, and arrived the next morning in Devonport, Tasmania.<br />
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The Bass Strait had been as calm as a millpond, so we disembarked on foot, to be met by the sniffer dog checking we weren't bringing any unwanted produce into the state. He managed to detect which bag had contained our bananas the day before, so it's not worth trying to smuggle anything in!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguin in Penguin. Small town, big penguin.</td></tr>
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Our hire car was waiting a few yards from the quay, and the very efficient representative of Europcar found I had been quoted too high a price, and knocked $300 off the rental! A good start, and it was only 7.30am. Off onto the relatively empty Bass Highway......<br />
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Before we headed south for the mountains, we wanted to see some places along the northern coast - namely the small towns of Penguin, and Stanley. What would it be like to live in a place called "Penguin"? Penguin was very neat, and everything was penguin-themed: litter bins, barbers, "Penguin Meals on Wheels"!! Right on the unspoilt coast. Delightful.<br />
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Stanley was a historical town (one of many in Tasmania!), which is now the centre of the lobster industry. An extinct volcano rises above it, providing great views over the surrounding countryside. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pademelon</td></tr>
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As we walked round the hill, we could hear the scuttling of many marsupials, but they were very difficult to photograph. I found out later that most were nocturnal, so my wife did well to capture this pademelon. No, I'd never heard of it, either!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley</td></tr>
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I couldn't work out why it was so hazy, as Tasmania claims to have "the freshest air in the world", but some forest fires had been burning for months in the west, and lingering in the peat soil. They would flare up intermittently in the lightly-populated region.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley</td></tr>
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Stanley was very well-preserved, but we had some miles to drive to reach our destination for the night - Cradle Mountain. Cradle Mountain forms part of a huge World Heritage Site. It's a rugged wilderness area, but there is easy access at the north and south ends of the park.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cradle Mt and Dove Lake</td></tr>
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Cradle Mountain/Lake St Clair is a National Park within the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Site - a great area for hiking and home of the famous Overland Track. The Wilderness covers about 20% of Tasmania!<br />
<a href="http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=7771" target="_blank">http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=7771</a><br />
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Although the road ends at Dove Lake, you can leave your car outside the park and utilise the minibuses which shuttle between the entrance and Dove Lake, about 7 miles south.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QDGksQvVSNM/VzYrqp8IBpI/AAAAAAAAUAM/3FrLyW7yAUkaOw7BGrfQMilJMeRtIIUGQCLcB/s1600/DSC_3112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QDGksQvVSNM/VzYrqp8IBpI/AAAAAAAAUAM/3FrLyW7yAUkaOw7BGrfQMilJMeRtIIUGQCLcB/s320/DSC_3112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
From there, a number of hikes fan out: some flat, around the lake, and others to the top of Cradle Mountain and beyond. On our first day here, we saw no mountains - the clouds were at road level (about 1,000 feet), and it rained heavily. The bus driver explained that it rains about 250 days of the year here and snowed on another 50. The average rainfall in this part of Tasmania is 3 metres per year! (Other parts of the island were having the driest year on record). We were quite glad to see blue skies and sunshine the next day.<br />
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The mountain complex is a basalt intrusion into the sedimentary rocks, and has resisted erosion over the aeons, so that it now rises to over 5,000 feet (1,545metres) above sea level. Twenty-thousand years ago, glaciers carved out several tarns and corries around the massif.<br />
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The views were enhanced by Australia's only deciduous native tree, the fagus or Beech, which changes colour in the Autumn. This tree is unique to Tasmania, but is related to other beech trees in Patagonia and New Zealand - a relic of when the land masses were joined together as Gondwanaland.<br />
<a href="http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=3244" target="_blank">http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=3244</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PwaKG3yW-6k/VzYrsjVLi8I/AAAAAAAAUAY/yb3BsYST7l4LtJFiHwbFw4G1_vloKQRIACLcB/s1600/DSC_3127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PwaKG3yW-6k/VzYrsjVLi8I/AAAAAAAAUAY/yb3BsYST7l4LtJFiHwbFw4G1_vloKQRIACLcB/s320/DSC_3127.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marion's Lookout</td></tr>
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Although the park is the home of the famous Overland Track, and we walked on some of the route, the paths were extremely well-maintained, and within a couple of hours we had reached a wonderful, if windy, viewpoint.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NICn1XSNdH8/VzYrszvFRfI/AAAAAAAAUAc/WT66YoGT6780GjT85ypFJafveVdV4jkYQCLcB/s1600/DSC_3132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NICn1XSNdH8/VzYrszvFRfI/AAAAAAAAUAc/WT66YoGT6780GjT85ypFJafveVdV4jkYQCLcB/s320/DSC_3132.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cradle Mt and glaciated landscape</td></tr>
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From Marion's Lookout, we partially retraced our steps (and, en route, finding my glasses which I had absent-mindedly left beside the path when I had put on some sun cream. Lucky or what?), and then diverted downhill to arrive back at the start of the Overland Track. We passed groups of walkers who were just starting out on their 6-day, 65km hike, laden with their backpacks. Their thighs must have been in good condition after climbing a kilometre in a couple of hours, much of it up a steep boardwalk through the forest.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPwf4XSSrLY/VzYruzBLEMI/AAAAAAAAUAk/mhsGRqFgCcACnd1LBQ-_i92gTapsltIZQCLcB/s1600/DSC_3143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPwf4XSSrLY/VzYruzBLEMI/AAAAAAAAUAk/mhsGRqFgCcACnd1LBQ-_i92gTapsltIZQCLcB/s320/DSC_3143.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The path is very steep in places</td></tr>
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As we got lower, we passed through parts of the park which had been logged for timber, before the park had been protected in 1922. Many of the trees in Tasmania are extremely slow growing and, once felled, can struggle to re-establish their former extent. Button grass then takes over and changes the landscape from forest to moorland.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uBRhWqLhutM/VzYrvO7osMI/AAAAAAAAUAo/NPH2jXmy8NAvuJ9QwnY7w80GHhUz6sWVACLcB/s1600/DSC_3150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uBRhWqLhutM/VzYrvO7osMI/AAAAAAAAUAo/NPH2jXmy8NAvuJ9QwnY7w80GHhUz6sWVACLcB/s320/DSC_3150.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Button grass thrives when trees felled.</td></tr>
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The Overland Track is a very popular hike, so, in summer, numbers are restricted, and walkers need to book and can only travel north to south.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22C7v-3l44o/VzYrvCkmeMI/AAAAAAAAUAs/Q4zvDL9Tdmg2eHF2BTHvL1l-1UtPF9s7wCLcB/s1600/DSC_3162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22C7v-3l44o/VzYrvCkmeMI/AAAAAAAAUAs/Q4zvDL9Tdmg2eHF2BTHvL1l-1UtPF9s7wCLcB/s320/DSC_3162.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start of the Overland Track</td></tr>
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We had heard the wildlife was superb, and had seen copious amounts of the unique cubed dung of the wombat, but had seen no animals on our walks. However, we discovered the best time to see the wildlife was at dusk or at night, so we joined a 4x4 evening tour, which also included a visit to a sanctuary for the endangered Tasmanian Devils.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvwp2Z9pI6s/VzYrooB2UMI/AAAAAAAAUAE/TiENXqfOsQwqTUTxi6MrJRWWOHLrwFmawCLcB/s1600/DSC_3060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvwp2Z9pI6s/VzYrooB2UMI/AAAAAAAAUAE/TiENXqfOsQwqTUTxi6MrJRWWOHLrwFmawCLcB/s320/DSC_3060.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Tasmanian Devils</td></tr>
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These unique creatures have recently been devastated by a contagious cancer of the face which is passed by saliva. As their feeding is usually done in groups and by ripping apart carrion (or roadkill), the disease has spread rapidly through the population. But centres like this one are now breeding disease-free animals to be released back into the wild. <br />
We also saw more pademelons, wombats, wallabies and quolls - a marsupial predator which filled the evolutionary niche that small cats do in other parts of the world. Unfortunately, feral and domestic cats brought from Europe have now made most native species endangered........<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DrZYsrlSYwM/VzYrwguP4CI/AAAAAAAAUA4/WeUreJ2YtqAmmYfZVFyqv7TFsiRj41cTACLcB/s1600/DSC_3184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DrZYsrlSYwM/VzYrwguP4CI/AAAAAAAAUA4/WeUreJ2YtqAmmYfZVFyqv7TFsiRj41cTACLcB/s320/DSC_3184.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crepuscular Wombat</td></tr>
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We saw lots of wombats on the night drive, and a few at dusk. We had been warned to keep well clear of them on the roads, as they are very robust and the car is likely to suffer more damage than them in a collision. Sure enough, we saw a lot of roadkill - mostly wallabies - but no wombats on the roadside!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xAvQaZnAxNE/VzYrx4SRheI/AAAAAAAAUA8/tKn5-sAnal8WPu5omW8a_eQJH-6X4K5rQCLcB/s1600/DSC_3188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xAvQaZnAxNE/VzYrx4SRheI/AAAAAAAAUA8/tKn5-sAnal8WPu5omW8a_eQJH-6X4K5rQCLcB/s320/DSC_3188.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waratah, once the mining centre of Tasmania.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XzVCkg3TPFI/VzzJLw6yC7I/AAAAAAAAUYY/apDVtEi7ifsaA5X1vbXGgNvw12F7MhimwCLcB/s1600/DSC_3204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XzVCkg3TPFI/VzzJLw6yC7I/AAAAAAAAUYY/apDVtEi7ifsaA5X1vbXGgNvw12F7MhimwCLcB/s320/DSC_3204.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forest fern</td></tr>
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Leaving Cradle Mountain, we headed west, into the Tarkine - the world's largest temperate rain forest. Filling up with petrol at the sleepy town of Waratah, we asked what the road ahead was like. "Oh, The Road To Nowhere? Good Luck"!! Luckily, I trusted my navigator.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_qIVG83RkY/VzYryLB-83I/AAAAAAAAUBA/xBkIam4uaBkIbqGUMfk7cU0EZzoO8oJ4wCLcB/s1600/DSC_3191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_qIVG83RkY/VzYryLB-83I/AAAAAAAAUBA/xBkIam4uaBkIbqGUMfk7cU0EZzoO8oJ4wCLcB/s320/DSC_3191.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road to Nowhere, on left, in trees.</td></tr>
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Soon, we were driving in dense, impenetrable forest, with centuries-old trees, and a thick carpet of ferns and mosses. The only sign of human habitation was a small compound of huts servicing what had once been the world's biggest tin mine. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pXnULa4tr7c/VzYqeQ6UXXI/AAAAAAAAT_c/OJIOe1Z37xA3HQ-oHECXZWG3URlubOqAgCLcB/s1600/20160423_124024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pXnULa4tr7c/VzYqeQ6UXXI/AAAAAAAAT_c/OJIOe1Z37xA3HQ-oHECXZWG3URlubOqAgCLcB/s320/20160423_124024.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After an hour, the road becomes unsealed....</td></tr>
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After that, the road surface changed from tar to gravel.....this would test our little Hyundai i20 ...and the driver! Still, navigation was easy. And traffic was non-existent....Ho Hum.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TFaYFEWGUOQ/VzYqeiGYAWI/AAAAAAAAT_g/6iKChq2bjzgaQgYQygButAKpwLaKy6lewCLcB/s1600/20160423_125732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TFaYFEWGUOQ/VzYqeiGYAWI/AAAAAAAAT_g/6iKChq2bjzgaQgYQygButAKpwLaKy6lewCLcB/s320/20160423_125732.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The forest closes in</td></tr>
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Eventually, after a couple of hours, we came to a clearing in the forest, with a few buildings scattered around. This was Corinna. The end of the Road to Nowhere.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LIa_oD5FSNw/VzzJL-ibOXI/AAAAAAAAUYc/hacpCPK-vFEBd7wRP5M3n-0Zpnhd2P9XgCLcB/s1600/DSC_3211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LIa_oD5FSNw/VzzJL-ibOXI/AAAAAAAAUYc/hacpCPK-vFEBd7wRP5M3n-0Zpnhd2P9XgCLcB/s320/DSC_3211.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The end of the Road to Nowhere...</td></tr>
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We had reached the Pieman River, and the only way across was by the Fatman.......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J_EyLN7z23U/VzYqgowbdpI/AAAAAAAAT_o/eL-iONsKircMR2ZY6eAUJNu0rUXnOXnAwCLcB/s1600/20160423_133925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J_EyLN7z23U/VzYqgowbdpI/AAAAAAAAT_o/eL-iONsKircMR2ZY6eAUJNu0rUXnOXnAwCLcB/s320/20160423_133925.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferry instructions</td></tr>
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The Fatman was a one-vehicle ferry, which winches itself across the river by means of a wire. (I have just heard that the wire snapped this week). We parked the car in the middle of the clearing, forming what we hoped would be an orderly queue for when the ferryman reappeared after lunch. <br />
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Unfortunately, 8 mature motorbike riders soon appeared from the local hotel and claimed they had been waiting longer. We weren't in any rush, so were happy to explore the clearing while the ferry shuttled them across the river.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xjh4UjqjEiI/Vzx1g34DoTI/AAAAAAAAUXA/cT-zAYwS4N0x6zwsLOoZbJCfGKRtt3D9gCLcB/s1600/DSC_3213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xjh4UjqjEiI/Vzx1g34DoTI/AAAAAAAAUXA/cT-zAYwS4N0x6zwsLOoZbJCfGKRtt3D9gCLcB/s320/DSC_3213.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smaller than the Bass Strait ferry. The Fatman.</td></tr>
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Soon we were across, and again travelling through the familiar, dense forest. After a couple of hours, the landscape cleared, and we approached the harbour town of Strahan - home of Atlantic salmon (!) and Tasmania's first penal colony....<br />
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More about the convict history of Tasmania in the next instalment...<br />
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Peterpeterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-33506926121750389662016-04-07T07:05:00.000-07:002016-04-08T12:31:39.499-07:00Fox Bay relaxation[This is an intermittent dip into our life in the South Atlantic. British expats working on the Falkland Islands since 2012. Life in Stanley, the capital, is rarely dull, but it is good to have a change of scenery. For a recent wedding anniversary, my wife and I flew to Fox Bay on West Falklands......]<br />
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Seconds after take-off in the tiny Britten-Norman Islander plane, we were looking down on Stanley and the harbour. At times, it's busy with cruise ships or fishing trawlers, but today the main occupant was an oil rig supply vessel - soon to be leaving the islands, as the oil rig was finishing its exploration programme.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v0wFwGFPans/VwQBFqv98HI/AAAAAAAAR8k/VwE-LdwFrG4BaFjCf4C3J3tT2ZornmDFA/s1600/P1340759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v0wFwGFPans/VwQBFqv98HI/AAAAAAAAR8k/VwE-LdwFrG4BaFjCf4C3J3tT2ZornmDFA/s320/P1340759.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley Harbour with oil supply vessel at jetty. The Narrows beyond</td></tr>
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We made a brief stop en route at the military base, Mount Pleasant, which also acts as the international airport for the Falklands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wVH7eGnCwqo/VwQBExqdm1I/AAAAAAAAR7w/kL1aXESQ5mAZRJu-E5rEbZWGN8SNcAtvw/s1600/P1340785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wVH7eGnCwqo/VwQBExqdm1I/AAAAAAAAR7w/kL1aXESQ5mAZRJu-E5rEbZWGN8SNcAtvw/s320/P1340785.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A slightly bigger plane at Mount Pleasant</td></tr>
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Continuing west for another 50 miles or so, we flew over Lafonia, a largely featureless grazing region in the south of East Falklands. In the early days, to gather and drive all the thousands of sheep, and bring them to the world's largest shearing shed at Goose Green, was a time-consuming task on horseback. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h2SAOqKR0Mg/VwQBFZ1kYSI/AAAAAAAAR70/EMWTF6bgy8c98mS1lI0v8jZRYCvHmGjGA/s1600/P1340798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h2SAOqKR0Mg/VwQBFZ1kYSI/AAAAAAAAR70/EMWTF6bgy8c98mS1lI0v8jZRYCvHmGjGA/s320/P1340798.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodie Creek bridge, most southerly suspension bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, in the 1930s, a huge short-cut was created by building the Bodie Creek Bridge across a large sea inlet. Nowadays, with trucks and quad bikes, and roads, gathering the sheep is much quicker, and the bridge has fallen into disuse.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EGWQETOEfCE/VwQLsPwYaxI/AAAAAAAAR-E/k3rUC-6EuVEQit8y2qL2-CK4p1hJkPgaw/s1600/P1340807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EGWQETOEfCE/VwQLsPwYaxI/AAAAAAAAR-E/k3rUC-6EuVEQit8y2qL2-CK4p1hJkPgaw/s320/P1340807.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay arrivals.</td></tr>
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Soon, we were across Falkland Sound and landing at the airstrip at Fox Bay (FB).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_xeyMVFhuR8/VwQLsSDg3PI/AAAAAAAAR-I/dNLDocN6i0QcLrNyC-VMP-p-563DqKZkA/s1600/P1350078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_xeyMVFhuR8/VwQLsSDg3PI/AAAAAAAAR-I/dNLDocN6i0QcLrNyC-VMP-p-563DqKZkA/s320/P1350078.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay West, looking southeast-ish</td></tr>
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We were met by our welcoming hostess, and driven a couple of miles to the small settlement of Fox Bay West, which faces its larger neighbour across the bay.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wV3DsjOko0k/VwQLt4nvzNI/AAAAAAAAR-M/ogULdMKcI8YYvj-6iaLw_al05R-NPDhZQ/s1600/P1350107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wV3DsjOko0k/VwQLt4nvzNI/AAAAAAAAR-M/ogULdMKcI8YYvj-6iaLw_al05R-NPDhZQ/s320/P1350107.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay, looking south</td></tr>
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There are two families living in FB West, and one was away, so we would have most of the place to ourselves. Our hosts owned the adjoining farms - comprising several thousand acres and sheep thereon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UZs5ccgUsys/VwQKAtrifLI/AAAAAAAAR84/yApPK38ecY8VLkrUmyWqEzNbKnqKaiqHg/s1600/P1340808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UZs5ccgUsys/VwQKAtrifLI/AAAAAAAAR84/yApPK38ecY8VLkrUmyWqEzNbKnqKaiqHg/s320/P1340808.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards Fox Bay East</td></tr>
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Once we had been shown around the lovely Black Shanty house (which is neither black nor a shanty), we decided to walk back to FB East to explore.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BUAC7VZ9bb4/VwQJ_PF6fmI/AAAAAAAAR80/qMzqSODK6kg5R_yfntWNKRInMUWvqK1ew/s1600/P1340909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BUAC7VZ9bb4/VwQJ_PF6fmI/AAAAAAAAR80/qMzqSODK6kg5R_yfntWNKRInMUWvqK1ew/s320/P1340909.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fox Bay West with telephoto lens. It's about 1km away, or 6km by road.</td></tr>
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Unfortunately, we had to walk around the bay - about 4 miles or 6km. The walk was fairly dull, made worse by being able to see our destination all the way, and it never seeming to get any closer!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JnOsWMdkpv8/VwQBJyY9AcI/AAAAAAAAR8E/fVG7ki2QyUUf0JeXyNKzpqpVNCKla8k0Q/s1600/P1340838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JnOsWMdkpv8/VwQBJyY9AcI/AAAAAAAAR8E/fVG7ki2QyUUf0JeXyNKzpqpVNCKla8k0Q/s320/P1340838.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Walking to Fox Bay East. Little traffic.</td></tr>
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As we could see the destination, we couldn't get lost. There was also a giant road sign should any car come that way!<br />
<div>
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<tr><td><div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FNI-bM3gz7o/VwQBLq2WTHI/AAAAAAAAR8I/I7tJGBU8DbsmJ4_7Boj8byYAhUY7P4Z2A/s1600/P1340841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FNI-bM3gz7o/VwQBLq2WTHI/AAAAAAAAR8I/I7tJGBU8DbsmJ4_7Boj8byYAhUY7P4Z2A/s320/P1340841.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Halfway</td></tr>
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So, after an hour or so striding out, we came to the strung-out settlement.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yBGFWkJjbcU/VwQBMIejTrI/AAAAAAAAR8M/jbWqoLmDXcUmPu9DO2zv7nC2TQ2Imj9qQ/s1600/P1340855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yBGFWkJjbcU/VwQBMIejTrI/AAAAAAAAR8M/jbWqoLmDXcUmPu9DO2zv7nC2TQ2Imj9qQ/s320/P1340855.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Arriving at Fox Bay East</td></tr>
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Our first port of call was the newly-restored Post Office Museum. Two dedicated and talented people had restored the old Post Office and displayed historic artefacts from the early days of Falklands history.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a6hkW61N4_Y/VwQBM0OkE1I/AAAAAAAAR8Q/tfAxmi0DW7YPcJGnnDm3zJA9DMbWg8-3w/s1600/P1340861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a6hkW61N4_Y/VwQBM0OkE1I/AAAAAAAAR8Q/tfAxmi0DW7YPcJGnnDm3zJA9DMbWg8-3w/s320/P1340861.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The Post Office Museum, Fox Bay</td></tr>
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Princess Anne opened the building when she was here in January. <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bJe9NhrFW5o/VwQBOql8FoI/AAAAAAAAR8U/lWCbSJLI_D43tk5T5P2DCCP8_DU5ACyyg/s1600/P1340865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bJe9NhrFW5o/VwQBOql8FoI/AAAAAAAAR8U/lWCbSJLI_D43tk5T5P2DCCP8_DU5ACyyg/s320/P1340865.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The renovated Post Office Museum</td></tr>
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Life would have been so different in the last 2 centuries, when it could take 6 months to a year to get a reply to a letter. We are spoiled by email.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gSz-z_Tv0A/VwQBRLJsoeI/AAAAAAAAR8c/pjAOABCT0P8e-qzWl_j48nCX8jSlquMsQ/s1600/P1340927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gSz-z_Tv0A/VwQBRLJsoeI/AAAAAAAAR8c/pjAOABCT0P8e-qzWl_j48nCX8jSlquMsQ/s320/P1340927.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
After wandering around the settlement for a while, we strolled back to the other side of the bay. Strangely enough, despite it being Friday and the Social Club being open, we didn't fancy strolling back later for a pint!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-36b8LV9kR54/VwQBRT35nkI/AAAAAAAAR8g/BPb3ZguwxgQ5OPEvvVSCd9CcqbViU34vQ/s1600/P1340939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-36b8LV9kR54/VwQBRT35nkI/AAAAAAAAR8g/BPb3ZguwxgQ5OPEvvVSCd9CcqbViU34vQ/s320/P1340939.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There be penguins in them thar hills!</td></tr>
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The next day, we set off to explore the hinterland around the farm. The immediate area has several minefields in it (relics of the 1982 conflict), so preventing a direct path to the penguin colony. But we were in no hurry, so skirted them and headed down the coast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ltmMsCpSU2M/VwQKDey1b5I/AAAAAAAAR9A/dOSBzhYK-vYmE8lj3JTlj9cNlSXy-k5Vw/s1600/P1340968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ltmMsCpSU2M/VwQKDey1b5I/AAAAAAAAR9A/dOSBzhYK-vYmE8lj3JTlj9cNlSXy-k5Vw/s320/P1340968.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch</td></tr>
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After about 90 minutes tramping through deep whitegrass, we came to the beach where the penguins congregate. One guy was particularly curious about us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ooPs6Z91KUQ/VwQKErYEXXI/AAAAAAAAR9E/MBq0S4po-J4Pvb_nsBYsdZs7-djIjf8bQ/s1600/P1340975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ooPs6Z91KUQ/VwQKErYEXXI/AAAAAAAAR9E/MBq0S4po-J4Pvb_nsBYsdZs7-djIjf8bQ/s320/P1340975.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeping seal.</td></tr>
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We also noticed a young elephant seal having a snooze about 10 metres away. The animals are so unafraid of Man here.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Eqy-mPH_n7g/VwQKHkApdPI/AAAAAAAAR9M/ub9m_Jg-KFsgiGUqm3EWhJdRJDWik8MYA/s1600/P1340978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Eqy-mPH_n7g/VwQKHkApdPI/AAAAAAAAR9M/ub9m_Jg-KFsgiGUqm3EWhJdRJDWik8MYA/s320/P1340978.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dreaming of squid.......?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Soon, the assembled Gentoo Penguins decided to head up the hill to their colony. We followed them part of the way, but gave up, partly because I think we were alarming some of them, and also because we could see their colony was about another mile uphill !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efv8o3f0210/VwQKJ_i5x4I/AAAAAAAAR9Q/YsPRdmpDWTIouc4X39H1bHVZQNB5UwocA/s1600/P1340994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efv8o3f0210/VwQKJ_i5x4I/AAAAAAAAR9Q/YsPRdmpDWTIouc4X39H1bHVZQNB5UwocA/s320/P1340994.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homeward bound</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We also wanted to get back to the house in case the forecast rain appeared, so left the penguins to their peace and quiet.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JtjYisAWGAc/VwQKKnWicVI/AAAAAAAAR9U/xYiwgJrqIAUk7zsm-ugm8HoyWPB7HuDcw/s1600/P1340998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JtjYisAWGAc/VwQKKnWicVI/AAAAAAAAR9U/xYiwgJrqIAUk7zsm-ugm8HoyWPB7HuDcw/s320/P1340998.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lichens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FeZ8K3Cqf9Q/VwQKOFX7l6I/AAAAAAAAR9g/Seqh6SJYRvkz2HKEAuJXY42e34BKlUzUw/s1600/P1350024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FeZ8K3Cqf9Q/VwQKOFX7l6I/AAAAAAAAR9g/Seqh6SJYRvkz2HKEAuJXY42e34BKlUzUw/s320/P1350024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up the hill</td></tr>
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We retraced our steps, as we enjoyed the solitude and scenery. As far as the eye could see, there was no sign of Man, except the occasional fence.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jx7UF64eIJs/VwQKR1DzVTI/AAAAAAAAR9o/_jA6YtOy9CA5jYpCSL1w4Hkyj0SBDp_AQ/s1600/P1350058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jx7UF64eIJs/VwQKR1DzVTI/AAAAAAAAR9o/_jA6YtOy9CA5jYpCSL1w4Hkyj0SBDp_AQ/s320/P1350058.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turkey Vulture </td></tr>
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Back at the house, our hostess had kindly laid in some supplies and we enjoyed a delicious home-cooked meal, and then watched the 6 Nations Rugby. What more could you want apart from a Scotland victory?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlJYU9D3-8U/VwQKRVHPb9I/AAAAAAAAR9k/04P8WmKUG2MtFcxdpwOljdf12eky7q21w/s1600/P1350087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlJYU9D3-8U/VwQKRVHPb9I/AAAAAAAAR9k/04P8WmKUG2MtFcxdpwOljdf12eky7q21w/s320/P1350087.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Shanty House. Very comfortable.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fn30uDfjbCM/VwQKTv7wO6I/AAAAAAAAR9s/ANA0CPbNxRotLuds-zgJ9sJWUUKVBU3Dw/s1600/P1350091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fn30uDfjbCM/VwQKTv7wO6I/AAAAAAAAR9s/ANA0CPbNxRotLuds-zgJ9sJWUUKVBU3Dw/s320/P1350091.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pier with FB East across the bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OA2_d05XkYg/VwQKVPZz9xI/AAAAAAAAR90/8YupUaZ0bJQB9IX9TvU7sFnTThoFjj6fw/s1600/P1350169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OA2_d05XkYg/VwQKVPZz9xI/AAAAAAAAR90/8YupUaZ0bJQB9IX9TvU7sFnTThoFjj6fw/s320/P1350169.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Static caravans in Stanley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All too soon, we were winging our way back to Stanley. Another relaxing weekend deposited in the memory bank.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GfraKMIQoY/VwQKUrI8ErI/AAAAAAAAR9w/MxP_cJ21lF8rmyvLjqXG2Alr5K_cxjVlA/s1600/P1350171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GfraKMIQoY/VwQKUrI8ErI/AAAAAAAAR9w/MxP_cJ21lF8rmyvLjqXG2Alr5K_cxjVlA/s320/P1350171.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shipwrecked Lady Elizabeth, in Stanley harbour, with runway on the right.</td></tr>
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More memories in a couple of months,<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br /></div>
peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-2097793151554534942016-01-27T15:01:00.000-08:002016-01-27T15:01:06.175-08:00Antarctic Adventures<br />
[This is an occasional look at life in the South Atlantic, usually on the Falkland Islands. However, this month, we ventured much further south, to the Great White Continent....Antarctica! This is long, so I've split it into sections -<br />
# Getting there;<br />
# Stunning Scenery;<br />
# When you are in a hole - stop digging!;<br />
# "Thar she blows!";<br />
# Deceptive Deception;<br />
# In Shackleton's Footsteps;<br />
# Birds, birds, birds.]<br />
<br />
<h4>
GETTING THERE......</h4>
A long, long time ago, in a galaxy not far away, my wife and I attended a Charity Ball in aid of Falklands Conservation (<a href="http://www.falklandsconservation.com/" target="_blank">http://www.falklandsconservation.com/</a> ). The top prize in the auction was a trip to Antarctica!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OgTdFX291l0/Vp7gRfQ1cGI/AAAAAAAARjA/31ihKapP2qY/s1600/P1320330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OgTdFX291l0/Vp7gRfQ1cGI/AAAAAAAARjA/31ihKapP2qY/s320/P1320330.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checkin on Antarctic Airways, Punta Arenas.</td></tr>
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Having over-indulged in the excellent wine, I was first to bid in the Dutch auction (where the auctioneer lowers the price until someone bids). The trip was ours! The company donating the prize informed us we could go on any of their voyages to Antarctica, as long as the journey started or finished in the Falklands, which was fine by us!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YD6Tagu6OKA/Vp7gTPw4WtI/AAAAAAAARjM/p1NYTrA938g/s1600/P1320332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YD6Tagu6OKA/Vp7gTPw4WtI/AAAAAAAARjM/p1NYTrA938g/s320/P1320332.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">British Aerospace 146</td></tr>
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After 18 months of anticipation, we eventually boarded the regular, weekly flight from the Falklands to Punta Arenas, Chile. For a change, we weren't passing through, and enjoyed exploring the remote city at the southern tip of mainland South America. Then the day loomed. Checkin at the airport for the 2 hour flight to a Chilean base in Antarctica, where we would join the ship! (I think I am going to wear out the exclamation key!!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-emH-9rbd73Q/Vp7gUmGmESI/AAAAAAAARjY/h23kKWEXrgI/s1600/P1320344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-emH-9rbd73Q/Vp7gUmGmESI/AAAAAAAARjY/h23kKWEXrgI/s320/P1320344.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brazilian transport plane that didn't make the runway....</td></tr>
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After an uneventful flight (which saved us two days of sailing across the notorious Drake Passage), my initial impressions of the "airport" on King George Island were somewhat mixed. The air was cold. The snow was piled high. The runway was very rough gravel, reminiscent of the roads on the Falklands. The only building in sight was a control tower 400 metres away. Waiting on the apron, I recognised a Brazilian Air Force transport plane that had famously not quite managed to land on the runway and was now sitting forlornly, engine-less, on the apron. (I had made the mistake of earlier researching the base and discovered it had the lowest success rate for landings, anywhere! I didn't share this knowledge with my fellow-passengers!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cqqY49iclFM/Vp7gWtOq-fI/AAAAAAAARjk/XOQmyLTAW6U/s1600/P1320345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cqqY49iclFM/Vp7gWtOq-fI/AAAAAAAARjk/XOQmyLTAW6U/s320/P1320345.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King George Island arrivals lounge</td></tr>
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So, we had arrived in Antarctica. What now? Where was the welcome? The crew? The ship? Our luggage? :-)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7druwLaDTog/Vp7gWtHUchI/AAAAAAAARjg/1wlDH7if8zM/s1600/P1320350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7druwLaDTog/Vp7gWtHUchI/AAAAAAAARjg/1wlDH7if8zM/s320/P1320350.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glad I brought my FIGAS hoodie. It's a bit nippy!</td></tr>
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We were later to discover that the logistics of accommodating tourists on a remote scientific base could be challenging. But some people climbed into a waiting helicopter and took off on their adventure......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SjoDWOWtk88/Vp7gXo7wv4I/AAAAAAAARjw/Z_afTv4oL-c/s1600/P1320361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SjoDWOWtk88/Vp7gXo7wv4I/AAAAAAAARjw/Z_afTv4oL-c/s320/P1320361.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shuttle to the private yacht</td></tr>
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The rest of us milled around and stamped our feet, the novelty of the cold air and frozen ground beginning to wear off. We had expected warm jackets and trousers to be provided on arrival, and I had only a light rain jacket on. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lcx0Oi_um4g/Vp7gabCthNI/AAAAAAAARj8/v9Xpy_uMZMg/s1600/P1320363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lcx0Oi_um4g/Vp7gabCthNI/AAAAAAAARj8/v9Xpy_uMZMg/s320/P1320363.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Firstly, find some warm clothes.....</td></tr>
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Soon, though, a pickup truck arrived with crates containing warm jackets, salopettes and rubber boots. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wIaHvLoe05A/Vp7gaYEOKUI/AAAAAAAARj4/xkLt2iWduBg/s1600/P1320366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wIaHvLoe05A/Vp7gaYEOKUI/AAAAAAAARj4/xkLt2iWduBg/s320/P1320366.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secondly, carry your bags along the runway... </td></tr>
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Apparently, the ship was in the bay, about a kilometre away. Ground transport was not available, so everyone had to pick up their rolling luggage and walk along the runway to the far side of the island. I felt smug that I had worn my own hiking boots on the flight and had a backpack for luggage.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mM7rLY9pJFE/Vp7gbh-AQqI/AAAAAAAARkI/HyGMzX3O72c/s1600/P1320369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mM7rLY9pJFE/Vp7gbh-AQqI/AAAAAAAARkI/HyGMzX3O72c/s320/P1320369.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost everywhere is North.</td></tr>
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En route, we passed the departing passengers and met more of our expedition team.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fEU2e9L57XY/Vp7geJQu7NI/AAAAAAAARkU/SP7QYxV7izo/s1600/P1320376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fEU2e9L57XY/Vp7geJQu7NI/AAAAAAAARkU/SP7QYxV7izo/s320/P1320376.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local transport was not taking passengers.</td></tr>
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To be fair, it was all part of the adventure, and it was very interesting walking through the base. Much more interesting than being bussed to some soul-less airport or mundane port. Next door to the Chilean base was the Russian "Bellinghausen" base, with its Russian Orthodox church high on the hill, And the "Great Wall" was a neighbouring Chinese scientific base, not a takeaway restaurant as some hoped.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bQGtJ6fWaMk/Vp7ggyxJiiI/AAAAAAAARkg/vRtRBpOcYwU/s1600/P1320377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bQGtJ6fWaMk/Vp7ggyxJiiI/AAAAAAAARkg/vRtRBpOcYwU/s320/P1320377.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The yacht Vava hiding our ship.</td></tr>
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After about 20 minutes, we arrived at the beach, where some zodiacs and penguins were waiting!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WAVbKO-1u7g/Vp7ghtbJg8I/AAAAAAAARko/Blj_8SnfzOg/s1600/P1320378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WAVbKO-1u7g/Vp7ghtbJg8I/AAAAAAAARko/Blj_8SnfzOg/s320/P1320378.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Also in the harbour were some yachts. Two were the traditional sailing yachts, but one was a super luxury floating resort, and was where the passengers on the helicopter had gone. Apparently, they were here for a spot of heli-skiing, on some virgin Antarctic mountains. Spookily, the yacht, Vava, arrived in Stanley Harbour 3 weeks later for a short visit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Voq0yGp8qnc/Vp7ghSh7J-I/AAAAAAAARkk/4GxW9aVqJZU/s1600/P1320383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Voq0yGp8qnc/Vp7ghSh7J-I/AAAAAAAARkk/4GxW9aVqJZU/s320/P1320383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Russian Orthodox Church. Not what we expected to see.....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QruL-cE3_QM/Vp7gjAqDazI/AAAAAAAARk4/gFOwS3ugazE/s1600/P1320384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QruL-cE3_QM/Vp7gjAqDazI/AAAAAAAARk4/gFOwS3ugazE/s320/P1320384.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilean base</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sxs4ZvghmKY/Vp7glKHK6KI/AAAAAAAARlI/OLV-whdOP9Y/s1600/P1320386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sxs4ZvghmKY/Vp7glKHK6KI/AAAAAAAARlI/OLV-whdOP9Y/s320/P1320386.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Post Office</td></tr>
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Chile has created a small town, and families lived all year round there. There was a school, a post office, and scientists from the other bases frequently paid social visits.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gzvZuGsDOOo/Vp7gkFURadI/AAAAAAAARlA/Mwa7OTkuuro/s1600/P1320408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gzvZuGsDOOo/Vp7gkFURadI/AAAAAAAARlA/Mwa7OTkuuro/s320/P1320408.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vava - not our ship</td></tr>
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On the beach, we donned waiting life preservers and were briefed on how to board a zodiac, how to sit in it, how to stand in it to take photos and what to do if someone fell overboard into the freezing water... ......The expedition team - naturalists, zoologists, ornithologists, kayakers, etc, wore orange hats. We listened to them......<br />
An exciting first hour in Antarctica. Just another 288 hours to go!<br />
================================================================<br />
<h4>
STUNNING SCENERY.....</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BMw3AqnWQN0/Vp6lb_GOXDI/AAAAAAAARf8/bfqcp_AwGlU/s1600/P1020408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BMw3AqnWQN0/Vp6lb_GOXDI/AAAAAAAARf8/bfqcp_AwGlU/s320/P1020408.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Breathtaking.</td></tr>
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Soon, we were on the ship, our home for 12 days, the Akademik Sergey Vavilov - a former Soviet research ship, built for stealth and polar waters. Extremely quiet, stable and manoeuvrable! It was registered in Kaliningrad. The crew of 40 were Russian. The company leasing it, One Ocean Expeditions, was Canadian, and most of the expedition team were Canadian, with a smattering of Australians, Brits, Japanese and Chinese. All were multi-talented as we were to discover later.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qC89mXx8czo/Vp7gmCkYe8I/AAAAAAAARlQ/HzSoV_TxyUs/s1600/P1320444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qC89mXx8czo/Vp7gmCkYe8I/AAAAAAAARlQ/HzSoV_TxyUs/s320/P1320444.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seabourn Quest</td></tr>
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I later found out the chefs were the only crew members who weren't Russian - they were Argentine. The food was delicious - some of it no doubt sourced in the Falklands! There were 80 passengers, and we all ate at one sitting in the dining room, sitting wherever we wished, making new friends and discussing the day's sightings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5xhiy1Dlp60/Vp6lUaEkNHI/AAAAAAAARfM/P-VE-1n6i7A/s1600/Midnight%2Bin%2BParadise-1020431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5xhiy1Dlp60/Vp6lUaEkNHI/AAAAAAAARfM/P-VE-1n6i7A/s320/Midnight%2Bin%2BParadise-1020431.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Paradise Harbour around midnight, December 30th</td></tr>
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As we sailed south, the weather was amazing. Flat calm for 3 days, with brilliant sunshine for about 22 hours of the day. It didn't get fully dark, and it was disorientating waking up during the night and watching icebergs with penguins on them floating by....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b0BtzRjgAIQ/Vp6lR3muOFI/AAAAAAAARe8/Nwebo6vGP2o/s1600/MERINGUE%2BCASTLE%2BP1020115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b0BtzRjgAIQ/Vp6lR3muOFI/AAAAAAAARe8/Nwebo6vGP2o/s320/MERINGUE%2BCASTLE%2BP1020115.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pretty iceberg</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"></span>In 2011, my wife and I had been lucky enough to travel to the region, and we knew this weather would probably not last. But it was wonderful to experience the grandeur of Antarctica in such circumstances. The air temperature was around 0 Centigrade.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5KzBUSad3pE/Vp6lWvOs4cI/AAAAAAAARfc/BOa3u5PmDYE/s1600/P1020250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5KzBUSad3pE/Vp6lWvOs4cI/AAAAAAAARfc/BOa3u5PmDYE/s320/P1020250.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin: 0px;">
Like a mill-pond</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0LbQPRHamM/Vp7gncY6vQI/AAAAAAAARlU/qCQkmajRmwo/s1600/P1320522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0LbQPRHamM/Vp7gncY6vQI/AAAAAAAARlU/qCQkmajRmwo/s320/P1320522.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iceberg</td></tr>
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Our journey continued, past innumerable icebergs and glaciers. Every iceberg was different. Some new, some old, some spectacular, some vast, some sculpted by the waves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TOC1oj_ZyyM/Vp6uh1THpxI/AAAAAAAARik/zvmtpCuUzdI/s1600/WHALE%2BBERG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TOC1oj_ZyyM/Vp6uh1THpxI/AAAAAAAARik/zvmtpCuUzdI/s320/WHALE%2BBERG.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Whale iceberg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As evening approached, we could stand on deck for hours watching humpback whales feeding on krill.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o3ToeVyXJB8/Vp6lfPZDaxI/AAAAAAAARgM/O_LrXF0FP3A/s1600/P1020636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o3ToeVyXJB8/Vp6lfPZDaxI/AAAAAAAARgM/O_LrXF0FP3A/s320/P1020636.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Wilhemina Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The landscapes were amazing - like another planet. It was difficult to get a sense of scale, until a familiar sight of another cruise ship hove into view.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ubNjiHjAWLI/Vp6ugxLJUJI/AAAAAAAARiU/LNTscn9BUdQ/s1600/Sailing%2BBy-1020585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ubNjiHjAWLI/Vp6ugxLJUJI/AAAAAAAARiU/LNTscn9BUdQ/s320/Sailing%2BBy-1020585.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Zaandam, a familiar sight in Stanley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, these large ships cannot land passengers in Antarctica. The rules don't allow more than 100 people to go ashore at once. And a ship with over 500 passengers can't let any passengers ashore. I don't know how much the Zaandam passengers enjoyed their trip, but someone once likened it to travelling across the globe to the best restaurant in the world, reading the menu outside and looking in at the diners........ then leaving! <br />
<br />
==============================================================<br />
<h4>
WHEN YOU ARE IN A HOLE - STOP DIGGING!</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTmLc71mojo/Vp7go5vbrRI/AAAAAAAARlg/cXdq8v0XS6E/s1600/P1320739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTmLc71mojo/Vp7go5vbrRI/AAAAAAAARlg/cXdq8v0XS6E/s320/P1320739.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Digging parties preparing the ground</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We had only 80 passengers, so we could all go ashore at the same time. Some of us even took up the offer of camping ashore!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xzFe0dbUz5g/Vp7grV5T0dI/AAAAAAAARlw/3zI-3CV6CGM/s1600/P1320743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xzFe0dbUz5g/Vp7grV5T0dI/AAAAAAAARlw/3zI-3CV6CGM/s320/P1320743.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hole with a view</td></tr>
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One of the many highlights on the trip was the option, weather permitting as always, of spending a night on the continent of Antarctica. I admit I initially thought the expensive cabin on the ship would be a better bedroom, but I was persuaded otherwise by the more adventurous member of the marriage......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nH6ovkeLQ9A/Vp7gri-DjOI/AAAAAAAARl0/VRbvP6jDaw8/s1600/P1320744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nH6ovkeLQ9A/Vp7gri-DjOI/AAAAAAAARl0/VRbvP6jDaw8/s320/P1320744.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portal / Reclus Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, with the weather calm, the lucky volunteers were transported ashore and issued with a bivvy bag, and thermarest mattress and a sleeping bag. Oh, and a shovel. I had had visions of the expedition team erecting tents for us, but most of the team were busy organising the New Year's Eve party on the ship....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qAcLVqxM-CU/Vp7gr0wax3I/AAAAAAAARl4/W9iApQZ-yMs/s1600/P1320770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qAcLVqxM-CU/Vp7gr0wax3I/AAAAAAAARl4/W9iApQZ-yMs/s320/P1320770.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow holes ready for inspection...</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
We were advised to dig a hole in which to place all the bedding, so that if the wind picked up during the night, we wouldn't be hit directly by it. I'm not sure what would have happened if it had snowed overnight!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PqSFJmL6T1A/Vp7gvmuAgrI/AAAAAAAARmY/u8xP_B-4zJ8/s1600/P1320787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PqSFJmL6T1A/Vp7gvmuAgrI/AAAAAAAARmY/u8xP_B-4zJ8/s320/P1320787.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snug, with penguin</td></tr>
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The guides did erect one tent. It contained a barrel, and this was our toilet. Nothing was to be left on Antarctica. No litter. No waste. No yellow snow....Despite the advice about not drinking too much, I couldn't resist a wee whisky from a flask. It was Hogmanay, after all.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igPSpQ4Z7e0/Vp6lfSA-9II/AAAAAAAARgU/TmcQkePJt4M/s1600/P1020751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igPSpQ4Z7e0/Vp6lfSA-9II/AAAAAAAARgU/TmcQkePJt4M/s320/P1020751.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Possibly the first Rockhopper penguins on Antarctic mainland, and the most southerly copy of Penguin News.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The place was really special for us, as it was where the Reclus Hut had been. This had housed a British expedition in the 1950's and the hut is now ensconced in the Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley. We have seen it many times, and had always wondered what it must have been like to live in it. Now we have an idea. I'm so glad I took my wife's advice....<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.bas.ac.uk/about/antarctica/environmental-protection/special-areas-and-historic-sites-of-antarctica/reclus-hut-port-stanley/" target="_blank">https://www.bas.ac.uk/about/antarctica/environmental-protection/special-areas-and-historic-sites-of-antarctica/reclus-hut-port-stanley/</a><br />
==========================================================<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
"THAR SHE BLOWS!"</h4>
One type of wildlife sighting always gives a thrill - Whales!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h-dRqC-p2dA/Vqgmnz9GARI/AAAAAAAARqU/dd6jcuRUP3k/s1600/P1030425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h-dRqC-p2dA/Vqgmnz9GARI/AAAAAAAARqU/dd6jcuRUP3k/s320/P1030425.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Elephant Island. View from the bridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UEZV0YNVcHE/VqgmovsaFYI/AAAAAAAARqc/_aGLcHi237Q/s1600/P1030427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UEZV0YNVcHE/VqgmovsaFYI/AAAAAAAARqc/_aGLcHi237Q/s320/P1030427.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humpback diving</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aJiK-cGrueQ/Vp6lNa3cglI/AAAAAAAARek/IDJN2Pi9y1s/s1600/HUMPBACK%2BP1020357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aJiK-cGrueQ/Vp6lNa3cglI/AAAAAAAARek/IDJN2Pi9y1s/s320/HUMPBACK%2BP1020357.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humpback, from a zodiac!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We saw plenty - mostly Humpbacks, but also Fin and Killer. Maybe other species, too, but some were too far away to clearly identify. Some were miles away, whilst on one occasion the pod was so close to the ship, the guides were shouting at people out on deck to "Look Down!", instead of peering out to sea.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wnqztyhZx6s/Vp6lSbuXnpI/AAAAAAAARfA/IB0OBNgzZcM/s1600/It%2Bwas%2Ba%2Bfluke%2Breally%2B-1030426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wnqztyhZx6s/Vp6lSbuXnpI/AAAAAAAARfA/IB0OBNgzZcM/s320/It%2Bwas%2Ba%2Bfluke%2Breally%2B-1030426.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fluke, honest!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We saw them feeding, which entailed swallowing huge amounts of water, then expelling it but retaining the krill. This is where having specialists on board to explain the behaviour really helps. And, in time, the novice can start to predict, say, when a dive is about to happen and have the camera ready!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vP5lmBtWu30/Vp6lVXigyKI/AAAAAAAARfU/-RsuLo5e2MA/s1600/P1020179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vP5lmBtWu30/Vp6lVXigyKI/AAAAAAAARfU/-RsuLo5e2MA/s320/P1020179.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Krill trawler and krill-eating whale, blowing. Co-exist?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was a bit concerned at a number of fishing vessels in Antarctica. I was told they were extracting krill, But it wasn't clear the impact this would have on whales feeding in the same waters. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UTGEv3fYa5w/Vp6laij0tLI/AAAAAAAARf0/25Y22O4Vqeg/s1600/P1020375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UTGEv3fYa5w/Vp6laij0tLI/AAAAAAAARf0/25Y22O4Vqeg/s320/P1020375.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Climbing Danco Island to see the penguins at the top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Whilst climbing a hill on Danco island, I decided the snow was too soft for comfort and headed for the beach for a zodiac cruise around the icebergs. Pretty dull, eh? We followed some kayakers from the ship for about 15 minutes and watched while whales surfaced just metres from the kayaks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PZB-dqLbOGE/Vp6lYixJRtI/AAAAAAAARfk/EpbX3pkLIFU/s1600/P1020343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PZB-dqLbOGE/Vp6lYixJRtI/AAAAAAAARfk/EpbX3pkLIFU/s320/P1020343.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">First encounter with whales.</td></tr>
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I'm not sure I would have liked to have been in a kayak on this occasion....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DdYSNwErQbU/Vp6ludY9G9I/AAAAAAAARh4/H7IolrKUNIA/s1600/Photo%2BOpportunity%2BP1020345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DdYSNwErQbU/Vp6ludY9G9I/AAAAAAAARh4/H7IolrKUNIA/s320/Photo%2BOpportunity%2BP1020345.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Whale and kayakers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But I've seen the video taken by the kayaker on the left in the above photo. That whale is BIG!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USQ78fkbKd8/Vp6lcBI207I/AAAAAAAARgA/WANRokDYGMs/s1600/P1020614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USQ78fkbKd8/Vp6lcBI207I/AAAAAAAARgA/WANRokDYGMs/s320/P1020614.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Adios"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
======================================================================<br />
<h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
DECEPTIVE DECEPTION.</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_k1wix1O5w/Vp6lhByGltI/AAAAAAAARgk/sVfV5A7zpwc/s1600/P1030013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_k1wix1O5w/Vp6lhByGltI/AAAAAAAARgk/sVfV5A7zpwc/s320/P1030013.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Entrance to volcanic harbour, Deception Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another amazing highlight was the day at Deception Island. An active volcano, with a flooded caldera, it made a very sheltered haven for the early whalers, and, later, scientists from the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey, which later transformed into the British Antarctic Survey (BAS).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P5eh6vCVh2E/Vp6lfvp6h_I/AAAAAAAARgQ/_al_-QUyYG4/s1600/P1020901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P5eh6vCVh2E/Vp6lfvp6h_I/AAAAAAAARgQ/_al_-QUyYG4/s320/P1020901.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whaling industry remnants, Deception Island</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It was abandoned about 50 years ago, after several eruptions and landslides damaged many buildings.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6vonyEv6gKA/VqVj-n1zjOI/AAAAAAAARo4/5FuN3cXuPpU/s1600/P1020863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6vonyEv6gKA/VqVj-n1zjOI/AAAAAAAARo4/5FuN3cXuPpU/s320/P1020863.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The whalers had long gone, but not before killing about 2 million whales from the southern oceans, over about 50 years. Just think how different the seas would be now if there were 2 million more whales in them!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gEJnbkBa7Uo/VqVj-qt8TlI/AAAAAAAARo0/mBPZxJZDKqU/s1600/P1020874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gEJnbkBa7Uo/VqVj-qt8TlI/AAAAAAAARo0/mBPZxJZDKqU/s320/P1020874.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calm kayaking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We had passed Deception soon after landing at King George Island. But it had been late at night and we needed to get further south. This had been the third time my wife and I had sailed past the island and we were pessimistic of ever getting the chance to see it. The weather in Antarctica is too unpredictable to make concrete plans.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QCvHZmtXTps/VqVj-kyUvQI/AAAAAAAARo8/euEEZzj7BU4/s1600/P1020884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QCvHZmtXTps/VqVj-kyUvQI/AAAAAAAARo8/euEEZzj7BU4/s320/P1020884.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whale oil tanks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, we were delighted when Nate, our excellent Expedition Leader (EL) announced one day that we would be trying to enter this almost mythical location when we turned north.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mToFiXk-3hc/VqVkCOuDnBI/AAAAAAAARpM/33T6aBrmcrU/s1600/P1020896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mToFiXk-3hc/VqVkCOuDnBI/AAAAAAAARpM/33T6aBrmcrU/s320/P1020896.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Norwegian grave</td></tr>
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After the ship had squeezed through the narrow entrance known as Neptune's Bellows, we were quickly ashore in the sheltered harbour. The ship's historian, Chris, gave a great walk and talk through the sites, explaining the fascinating history of the place, and the huge scale of the whaling operation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lbIqUdHiYhQ/VqVkCHd_9nI/AAAAAAAARpQ/FvQn4aPhPog/s1600/P1020899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lbIqUdHiYhQ/VqVkCHd_9nI/AAAAAAAARpQ/FvQn4aPhPog/s320/P1020899.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abandoned buildings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The main occupied area was about a mile long, with accommodation buildings, storehouses, hangars (there used to be flights from an airstrip there), as well as the massive tanks for steaming whale blubber and storing the oil.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6V0PhEt0Vwc/VqVkEChZF1I/AAAAAAAARpc/od6cyEeJIdo/s1600/P1020904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6V0PhEt0Vwc/VqVkEChZF1I/AAAAAAAARpc/od6cyEeJIdo/s320/P1020904.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Biscoe" is a famous name in the Antarctic. There is even a street named after him in Stanley.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Despite the cold, I was reminded of a "ghost" town we had visited years ago in Namibia. An old diamond mining town called Kolmanskop which had been abandoned in the desert when the diamonds ran out. The sand dunes were reclaiming the town. Now the whale population had been decimated, the snow was occupying the buildings here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BjuNleGfUDc/VqVkGCBb9II/AAAAAAAARpk/EyXaSXjRSpk/s1600/P1020918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BjuNleGfUDc/VqVkGCBb9II/AAAAAAAARpk/EyXaSXjRSpk/s320/P1020918.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The snow reclaiming old buildings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mqHsxRy0P9c/VqVkHn4WJ_I/AAAAAAAARps/zRjACevtThI/s1600/P1020948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mqHsxRy0P9c/VqVkHn4WJ_I/AAAAAAAARps/zRjACevtThI/s320/P1020948.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boilers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, it wasn't all doom and gloom. The volcanic activity slightly heated the water, so that it was possible to swim in the sea here. Volunteers were sought for the Polar Plunge and, being a veteran of several South Atlantic Midwinter Swims in the Falklands I felt it would be a mistake to miss this opportunity.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cvMVPOLmEI/Vp7g0vdHghI/AAAAAAAARmw/mTR3NuDR2hs/s1600/P1330296-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cvMVPOLmEI/Vp7g0vdHghI/AAAAAAAARmw/mTR3NuDR2hs/s320/P1330296-001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relaxing after the swim.</td></tr>
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<div>
About 20 mad people stripped off on the beach and walked gingerly into the water. And it <i>was</i> warmer than the Falklands, although most of the spectators had 5 layers of clothes on. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYPVhmPNv1o/Vp7gwwA2fXI/AAAAAAAARmg/ZNQ7Ekfja0s/s1600/P1330294-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYPVhmPNv1o/Vp7gwwA2fXI/AAAAAAAARmg/ZNQ7Ekfja0s/s320/P1330294-001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lot warmer than the Midwinter Dip in the Falklands!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
The main problem with these events is getting warm afterwards, but some people took advantage of the hot tub on the top deck and and enjoyed a relaxing soak as the ship squeezed out through Neptune's Bellows again.</div>
<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4ab_w6wGAj0/Vp6lJV14nUI/AAAAAAAAReM/U70Mo81I1Xk/s1600/Deception%2BIsland%2Bnot%2Bwhat%2Bwe%2Bexpected%2BP1030002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4ab_w6wGAj0/Vp6lJV14nUI/AAAAAAAAReM/U70Mo81I1Xk/s320/Deception%2BIsland%2Bnot%2Bwhat%2Bwe%2Bexpected%2BP1030002.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Relaxing in Antarctica, Deception Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
I must try and get the organisers of the Falklands Midwinter Swim to install a hot tub.....!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-vUD4RVBNU/Vp7g2OngDAI/AAAAAAAARm8/ENNQLV-mTHk/s1600/P1330303-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-vUD4RVBNU/Vp7g2OngDAI/AAAAAAAARm8/ENNQLV-mTHk/s320/P1330303-001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No risk of hypothermia here....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
==============================================================<br />
<h4>
IN SHACKLETON'S FOOTSTEPS</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfT-7RK0RNo/Vp7gOw4YrAI/AAAAAAAARi4/wETkOcdAXsI/s1600/P1320078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfT-7RK0RNo/Vp7gOw4YrAI/AAAAAAAARi4/wETkOcdAXsI/s320/P1320078.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Leaning on a replica of the James Caird in Punta Arenas. (Le Boreal cruise ship in the distance.)</td></tr>
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I should say that we also absorbed a lot about Sir Ernest Shackleton on the trip. Not only did we have some great talks from Chris, the Historian, but we also visited a few places that Shackleton and his men had been on their ill-fated voyage between 1914 and 1916.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kdeYXKMSZB0/VqkqmJp-IMI/AAAAAAAARrk/tjIrtm59MS0/s1600/P1030625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kdeYXKMSZB0/VqkqmJp-IMI/AAAAAAAARrk/tjIrtm59MS0/s320/P1030625.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Fleeting glimpse of a Wandering Albatross</td></tr>
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Time and space does not permit me to repeat the amazing feats of exploration, navigation and survival that epitomised Shackleton's Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1914 on the "Endurance".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1F-1W42mWU/Vqkqk1ArwUI/AAAAAAAARrU/yGKZzAa-O6k/s1600/P1030622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1F-1W42mWU/Vqkqk1ArwUI/AAAAAAAARrU/yGKZzAa-O6k/s320/P1030622.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant Island - the beach where the Endurance crew survived for 4 months.</td></tr>
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<br />
But, if anyone is in Punta Arenas, they can see a replica (above) of the Endurance's lifeboat, the "James Caird", which was used by Shackleton to sail from Elephant Island, (where most of the men were to await rescue), to South Georgia, 800 miles away across the world's roughest seas. An unparalleled feat of navigation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BeNPVrSTfic/VqlCN8IbpqI/AAAAAAAARsQ/O7hMxrtc3Z8/s1600/P1330650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BeNPVrSTfic/VqlCN8IbpqI/AAAAAAAARsQ/O7hMxrtc3Z8/s320/P1330650.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wfsjOaB9XJ4/VqlCN9uUBUI/AAAAAAAARsM/3Y0H53OrF0k/s1600/P1330676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wfsjOaB9XJ4/VqlCN9uUBUI/AAAAAAAARsM/3Y0H53OrF0k/s320/P1330676.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lone chinstrap on Elephant Island</td></tr>
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Also in Punta Arenas is the Shackleton Bar in the Hotel Jose Nogueira! His epic story is described in paintings on the wall.<br />
<br />
The bar is certainly a lot, lot more comfortable than Elephant Island. We didn't land there, but were literally within touching distance. It is mostly rock and ice. Shackleton's men waited there for 4 months, living on penguins until rescue came, thanks to the Chilean Captain, Luis Pardo, on the tug, Yelcho!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yelcho_(1906)" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yelcho_(1906)</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4OIKToyKcbs/Vqkqnw_0uYI/AAAAAAAARrw/FjtWH23dM9E/s1600/P1030681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4OIKToyKcbs/Vqkqnw_0uYI/AAAAAAAARrw/FjtWH23dM9E/s320/P1030681.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Drake Passage. Heading north.</td></tr>
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===============================================================<br />
<h4>
BIRDS, BIRDS, BIRDS!</h4>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gPsV_ZOe-g4/Vp7gpgt5bfI/AAAAAAAARlo/GJN1Ou-Xw40/s1600/P1320622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gPsV_ZOe-g4/Vp7gpgt5bfI/AAAAAAAARlo/GJN1Ou-Xw40/s320/P1320622.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Antarctic Shags, Port Lockroy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The seas around Antarctica are so rich in life, they support a vast web of birds, fish and mammals. And, as it doesn't get dark in the Antarctic summer, birds can feed almost 24 hours a day. What better place to rear your young?<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8jyg0mSUikI/Vp6lPCHBh8I/AAAAAAAARes/A3hy9bLlGU4/s1600/Feeding%2BTime%2BP1020513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8jyg0mSUikI/Vp6lPCHBh8I/AAAAAAAARes/A3hy9bLlGU4/s320/Feeding%2BTime%2BP1020513.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Antarctica Shag feeding chick, Port Lockroy</td></tr>
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Huge colonies of penguins - Chinstrap, Adelie, and Gentoo, (with King and Macaroni around South Georgia Island) - vie with similar numbers of shags, petrels and albatrosses, although the latter tend to breed in the Falklands and South Georgia and "commute" to the fishing grounds around Antarctica).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5N43nXSmZK4/Vp6lKVMc_VI/AAAAAAAAReU/29akbsagJf4/s1600/CHINSTRAP%2BACROBATS%2BPERFORM%2B4%2BMACARONIS%2BP1030585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5N43nXSmZK4/Vp6lKVMc_VI/AAAAAAAAReU/29akbsagJf4/s320/CHINSTRAP%2BACROBATS%2BPERFORM%2B4%2BMACARONIS%2BP1030585.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Chinstrap penguins, and Macaronis, Elephant Island..</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UfygKABG2Iw/Vp6lJkr7R7I/AAAAAAAAReQ/lA9BQFPzv9U/s1600/Antarctic%2Bresidents%2BP1030493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UfygKABG2Iw/Vp6lJkr7R7I/AAAAAAAAReQ/lA9BQFPzv9U/s320/Antarctic%2Bresidents%2BP1030493.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Chinstrap and Macaroni penguin lookouts, Elephant Island</td></tr>
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Islands like Elephant and South Georgia are heavily glaciated, but adjacent to great feeding grounds. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k8zMOZQnEiI/Vp6lj65WZiI/AAAAAAAARgs/_eBgf16cJeM/s1600/P1030071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k8zMOZQnEiI/Vp6lj65WZiI/AAAAAAAARgs/_eBgf16cJeM/s320/P1030071.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinstrap chick</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0u54tf-D45M/Vp6lZCPhcWI/AAAAAAAARfo/ty3pYKd6pDY/s1600/P1020310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0u54tf-D45M/Vp6lZCPhcWI/AAAAAAAARfo/ty3pYKd6pDY/s320/P1020310.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Newly-hatched Gentoo chicks, Danco Island</td></tr>
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We were lucky enough to time our visit as many penguin chicks were pecking their way out of their shells. Parents were busy fishing and then regurgitating the nutritious catch for their offspring.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f2TtQg1Hqko/Vp6lj2zZeoI/AAAAAAAARgw/hFpWI-cdF4U/s1600/P1030086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f2TtQg1Hqko/Vp6lj2zZeoI/AAAAAAAARgw/hFpWI-cdF4U/s320/P1030086.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinstrap and chick, Half Moon island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, predators such as Skuas had young to feed, too, and penguin chicks were an easy prey for them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fz36Wlq7V2g/Vp6llJy8uSI/AAAAAAAARg8/G6fbTjbOyTI/s1600/P1030225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fz36Wlq7V2g/Vp6llJy8uSI/AAAAAAAARg8/G6fbTjbOyTI/s320/P1030225.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adelie penguin feeding chick, Brown Bluff, Antarctica.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4JvGvVSz4U0/VqlCMpeShgI/AAAAAAAARsE/Qlxj5uHACgg/s1600/P1330579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4JvGvVSz4U0/VqlCMpeShgI/AAAAAAAARsE/Qlxj5uHACgg/s400/P1330579.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adelie penguins on an ice floe, Brown Bluff</td></tr>
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When chicks were large enough to be left alone for a few hours, they would huddle together in "creches" for protection from predators. When the parents returned, they would call to their chicks and recognise the answering call. No point in feeding someone else's chick!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I74YtstGa1Q/Vp6lnFWY9YI/AAAAAAAARhE/amlX9qCeZO4/s1600/P1030589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I74YtstGa1Q/Vp6lnFWY9YI/AAAAAAAARhE/amlX9qCeZO4/s320/P1030589.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Macaroni!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8B3G_0dJwo0/VqU_Pul9iLI/AAAAAAAARoM/ZfzZsgSJS9Y/s1600/P1020976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8B3G_0dJwo0/VqU_Pul9iLI/AAAAAAAARoM/ZfzZsgSJS9Y/s320/P1020976.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Polar Skua - no bird breeds further south.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k4ikijzJKYA/VqkqlZSR46I/AAAAAAAARrY/Q_l0SSTuozg/s1600/P1030626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k4ikijzJKYA/VqkqlZSR46I/AAAAAAAARrY/Q_l0SSTuozg/s320/P1030626.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Crossing the Drake Passage - no smoothies in the bar today due to the, er, swell.....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gKy3NSfqaS0/VqU_OoAitnI/AAAAAAAARoE/retbt0HJn6U/s1600/P1030716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gKy3NSfqaS0/VqU_OoAitnI/AAAAAAAARoE/retbt0HJn6U/s320/P1030716.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern Giant Petrel, possibly raising a chick in the Falklands.</td></tr>
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One morning, we emerged onto a sunlit deck and a warm breeze in the air. We had crossed out of the Antarctic Ocean into the South Atlantic. No more icebergs or freezing temperatures. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jwfmdF2N2sY/VqU_OOu-A8I/AAAAAAAARn8/-lf3E1bjX_E/s1600/P1030737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jwfmdF2N2sY/VqU_OOu-A8I/AAAAAAAARn8/-lf3E1bjX_E/s320/P1030737.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yet another Southern Giant Petrel....</td></tr>
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What we did have was a mesmerising procession of petrels and albatrosses following, and overtaking, the ship. At times, they would fly effortlessly alongside the ship at eye level, so even a novice could take good photos of them. I could watch them for hours.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LDod3QIZMAI/VqU_QWEdGII/AAAAAAAARoQ/B-4law17-Ns/s1600/P1030756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LDod3QIZMAI/VqU_QWEdGII/AAAAAAAARoQ/B-4law17-Ns/s320/P1030756.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You don't need to be a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.....West Point Island, Falklands</td></tr>
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Also onboard were two professional photographers, whose remit included helping the passengers get the most out of their camera. Various workshops were run and critical, but friendly, eyes were cast over photos, with a view to helping the photographer to improve. One of the photographers, Boomer, is on the left, above, trying to see some sealions spotted by the ornithologist, Simon, on the right. This was our first sight of the Falklands, but the weather was so squally, we couldn't go ashore at West Point Island......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDeakOi2HC4/VqU_S2qvhiI/AAAAAAAARog/hyacC5QzuEI/s1600/P1030798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDeakOi2HC4/VqU_S2qvhiI/AAAAAAAARog/hyacC5QzuEI/s320/P1030798.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No landing, but we still see penguins!</td></tr>
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Sensing the deep disappointment of the passengers, the Concierge team organised a Hula Hoop session...in penguin costumes! Like the other entertainments devised for passengers, this was highly popular and entertaining. (The "Fireside chats" in the bar after dinner, were a fantastic opportunity to hear others' experiences, or listen to great live music. On numerous occasions, the Concierge and Expedition teams went "the extra mile").<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Io-xnlOR9I/VqU_SkzhBEI/AAAAAAAARoc/VPTwwnJmQho/s1600/P1030807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Io-xnlOR9I/VqU_SkzhBEI/AAAAAAAARoc/VPTwwnJmQho/s320/P1030807.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea Cabbage on Saunders Island</td></tr>
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We sailed north and east to Saunders Island, another gem in the crown of Falkland Islands. However, the wind didn't seem to be easing and we waited offshore for 2 hours gazing at the island - our last wildlife destination of the trip, and the last opportunity to see penguins!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6VdyRVDXSho/VqlCPhYO1xI/AAAAAAAARsc/DB_Dp9hHrfc/s1600/P1340004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6VdyRVDXSho/VqlCPhYO1xI/AAAAAAAARsc/DB_Dp9hHrfc/s320/P1340004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Expedition team struggling against the elements, Saunders Island</td></tr>
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Eventually, our intrepid Expedition Leader decided to risk a bumpy zodiac ride and got us all ashore safely to see the various birds - black-browed albatrosses, four species of penguin - Rockhopper, Magellanic, Gentoo and King. It was worth getting wet.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Df-xWMJRWNw/Vp6loKsO0bI/AAAAAAAARhM/yAU2KBU7MAg/s1600/P1030817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Df-xWMJRWNw/Vp6loKsO0bI/AAAAAAAARhM/yAU2KBU7MAg/s320/P1030817.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King! On Saunders Island, Falklands </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZa6mik9UGY/Vp6lpr_pWRI/AAAAAAAARhU/WuMOZgO8sSg/s1600/P1030824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZa6mik9UGY/Vp6lpr_pWRI/AAAAAAAARhU/WuMOZgO8sSg/s320/P1030824.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King Penguins with eggs, Saunders Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gTePvx769jE/Vp6lq6JUFcI/AAAAAAAARhc/D6jhKqz7ArE/s1600/P1030826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gTePvx769jE/Vp6lq6JUFcI/AAAAAAAARhc/D6jhKqz7ArE/s320/P1030826.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gentoo colony, Saunders Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TrtzECfCZQw/Vp6lrQdT9FI/AAAAAAAARhg/d9xSjHFlcAs/s1600/P1030846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TrtzECfCZQw/Vp6lrQdT9FI/AAAAAAAARhg/d9xSjHFlcAs/s320/P1030846.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Neck, Saunders Island.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjB7vFo3Zwk/Vp6ltXPE75I/AAAAAAAARhs/zMFzx_Iqv-A/s1600/P1030879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjB7vFo3Zwk/Vp6ltXPE75I/AAAAAAAARhs/zMFzx_Iqv-A/s320/P1030879.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-Browed Albatross chick, Saunders Island, Falklands.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b2SLvJkUOLo/VqaT6cXk-vI/AAAAAAAARqA/Am7WkKtfJCE/s1600/P1030874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b2SLvJkUOLo/VqaT6cXk-vI/AAAAAAAARqA/Am7WkKtfJCE/s320/P1030874.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-Browed Albatross courting behaviour.</td></tr>
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After the excitement of the zodiac rides and the close-quarter observation of birds that spend most of their lives at sea, there was one more highlight. We were invited to sit at the Captain's table for dinner!! Luckily, my wife had attended Russian classes in the past and knew a few phrases with which to break the ice. "More borscht, Captain?". "Niet!". Seriously, it was a great honour, and allowed us to personally thank the Captain for providing such a unique experience. On one memorable occasion, he turned the ship around in its own length to follow a pod of Orcas. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f6M-SYaEzZ0/Vp6lt1otV2I/AAAAAAAARhw/VmEJ9xS_ioQ/s1600/P1030904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f6M-SYaEzZ0/Vp6lt1otV2I/AAAAAAAARhw/VmEJ9xS_ioQ/s320/P1030904.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following an oil rig supply ship through the Narrows, Stanley harbour. Home is within sight..</td></tr>
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Much of the rest of the evening was a blur, but I woke to see my first familiar sight for 2 weeks - Stanley Harbour. We sailed carefully through the Narrows behind an oil supply vessel, and then turned the bow to face the westerly breeze and edged slowly towards the jetty known as FIPASS (Falklands Interim Port And Storage System).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5yJhI3yQjHs/Vp6uf8GkgdI/AAAAAAAARiM/s8xYm7-DVJk/s1600/Port%2BLockroy%2BP1020502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5yJhI3yQjHs/Vp6uf8GkgdI/AAAAAAAARiM/s8xYm7-DVJk/s320/Port%2BLockroy%2BP1020502.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Haste Ye Back!"</td></tr>
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As ropes were attached to bollards, familiar faces looked up at us from the jetty. We were home! But we would never forget an amazing trip. Our enormous thanks are due to the Captain, crew and expedition team on the Vavilov, and One Ocean Expeditions who enabled us to travel safely and comfortably to such a wonderful wilderness. We are privileged. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GhIciWnhBz0/Vp6uhJ35iOI/AAAAAAAARiY/xmyFh6keYoo/s1600/Southern%2BGiant-1030331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GhIciWnhBz0/Vp6uhJ35iOI/AAAAAAAARiY/xmyFh6keYoo/s640/Southern%2BGiant-1030331.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant Iceberg and Southern Giant Petrel</td></tr>
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<br />
But our experiences would not have been as rich without our fellow passengers, who contributed so much in so many ways. Who would have thought, for example, that I would listen enthralled to a recitation of "The Cremation of Sam McGee" in the bar? Not me! If you read this, I hope you guys enjoyed it as much as we did, even though you all had much longer journeys home!!!<br />
<br />
Go Well! Stay Well!<br />
<br />
Peter, and Annie xx<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-64836634159352761342015-12-19T05:49:00.000-08:002015-12-19T05:49:31.499-08:00Patagonian explorations. Fin del Mundo...<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L75JAUUyfq4/VnGq15SBaVI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/wM3gKiee74A/s1600/DSC_1721-PANO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L75JAUUyfq4/VnGq15SBaVI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/wM3gKiee74A/s640/DSC_1721-PANO.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Perito Moreno panorama, courtesy of google photos!</td></tr>
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[One of the benefits of living in a very remote place, like the Falkland Islands, is that we have to pass through, or over, some very interesting landscapes. Occasionally, we get the chance to linger.....]<br />
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Patagonia is the southern "cone" of South America, with Chile on the west of the Andes, and Argentina on the east (although it gets a bit complicated around Tierra del Fuego!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-buwLA73ADGM/VnGq12ghgKI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/bhUl7hPQdUo/s1600/DSC_1723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-buwLA73ADGM/VnGq12ghgKI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/bhUl7hPQdUo/s320/DSC_1723.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perito Moreno</td></tr>
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In October, we interrupted our return to the Falklands to see more of southern Patagonia, We stayed in Puerto Natales, Chile, about 100 miles north of Punta Arenas, our gateway to the Falklands. Near Puerto Natales is the amazing Torres del Paine National Park. <br />
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Over the border in Argentina, about 5 hours drive away, there is more stunning scenery around El Calafate. The Perito Moreno glacier is famous for its frequent calving, which seemed to happen about every 15 minutes while we were there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ylCEA9QM4Ps/VnGq16RheqI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/7hoavWzLQKQ/s1600/DSC_1725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ylCEA9QM4Ps/VnGq16RheqI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/7hoavWzLQKQ/s320/DSC_1725.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ice recently calved from Perito Moreno glacier.</td></tr>
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It's hard to give a sense of scale, but the front of the glacier is about 2 miles wide. The huge "Ka-Booms" as the ice separates from the glacier and crashes into the lake were startling. However, given the time it took the sound to travel, it was not immediately obvious where it had come from! Hence the lack of action photos!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rSvlCWNtQvc/VnGq139dAdI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/tZ97xFiL1Po/s1600/DSC_1786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rSvlCWNtQvc/VnGq139dAdI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/tZ97xFiL1Po/s320/DSC_1786.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seno Ultimo Esperenza, Sound of Last Hope!</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, back in Chile, we did a relaxing boat trip up the Seno Ultimo Esperenza, which was so-called as the sailors had exhausted all hope of finding a way through the maze of fiords and islands to the Pacific Ocean. This was one of the last areas of the world to be "found" by Europeans.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serrano Glacier, Torres del Paine.</td></tr>
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The trip included two glaciers, and for the Serrano Glacier, we could walk around the glacial lake and gaze at the hundreds of iceberg bobbing about. Very different from the Perito Moreno experience - no coach parties!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eedqkoSFdAM/VnGq1w_47tI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/zZhsHG7M2Ws/s1600/DSC_1896-PANO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="144" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eedqkoSFdAM/VnGq1w_47tI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/zZhsHG7M2Ws/s320/DSC_1896-PANO.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Torres del Paine</td></tr>
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The Torres del Paine National Park is huge, and we took a whistlestop tour to remind ourselves of its highlights. It didn't disappoint. (We had previously spent a week in it in 2013 - see my blogs for April 2013 for more information on the park).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WYMGRUMFz7g/VnGq1-Qo7OI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/OzP_o3fw72A/s1600/DSC_1929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WYMGRUMFz7g/VnGq1-Qo7OI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/OzP_o3fw72A/s320/DSC_1929.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lago Grey icebergs, Torres del Paine</td></tr>
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The beach (above) at Lago Grey (Grey Lake in English!) was formed by a huge glacier retreating. But icebergs still float the 12 miles down the lake from its existing snout, which is part of the enormous Patagonian Icecap, which straddles almost the entire width of Chile.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U1loyok4lSs/VnGq18w52CI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/TtB0qAW0Jjs/s1600/DSC_1836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U1loyok4lSs/VnGq18w52CI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/TtB0qAW0Jjs/s320/DSC_1836.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Torres del Paine from Puerto Natales</span></td></tr>
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The small town of Puerto Natales has a frontier feel, cut off from the rest of Chile by the Patagonian Icecap to the north. The road north goes through Argentina, and buses take about 30 hours to the next city. The ferry north takes 4 days! We headed south for 3 hours to Punta Arenas, where we boarded the Stella Australis, Southern Star, to explore the Beagle Channel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAnGOD20OfU/VnGq15Qou9I/AAAAAAAAQ6k/Bmfjzpr-lcQ/s1600/DSC_2098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAnGOD20OfU/VnGq15Qou9I/AAAAAAAAQ6k/Bmfjzpr-lcQ/s320/DSC_2098.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stella Australis in a sheltered fiord</td></tr>
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This ship sails between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia (on Tierra del Fuego) in the summer, calling at Cape Horn, weather permitting! Captain Fitzroy, of the Beagle, and Charles Darwin, spent three years charting the waters here before moving on to the Galapagos! It's a very unspoiled region, although whoever introduced beavers about 60 years ago, is probably regretting it now! With no predators, the original 14 have multiplied to over 100,000!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YIT65ItKeo0/VnGq1-zGJWI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/0U7E4ORO9Eo/s1600/DSC_2155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YIT65ItKeo0/VnGq1-zGJWI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/0U7E4ORO9Eo/s320/DSC_2155.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Landing at Cape Horn</td></tr>
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We were very lucky with the weather and managed to get ashore on Cape Horn Island without getting too wet. The landscape was similar to the Falklands, with most of the same plants underfoot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCS8L7-R_6A/VnGq1z1-CNI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/xv8OnBUzS1A/s1600/DSC_2163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCS8L7-R_6A/VnGq1z1-CNI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/xv8OnBUzS1A/s320/DSC_2163.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape Horn lighthouse</td></tr>
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Nowadays, a Chilean Navy officer and his family man the weather station. A very lonely existence, except when the odd yacht or the Australis calls in. A very moving place, when one considers the hundreds of shipwrecks around it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CrrLEdKGoBA/VnRqosDABwI/AAAAAAAAQ8A/C3Fz2rTzBFI/s1600/P1300196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CrrLEdKGoBA/VnRqosDABwI/AAAAAAAAQ8A/C3Fz2rTzBFI/s320/P1300196.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape Horn on a calm day.</td></tr>
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But the short cruise also educated us a lot about the indigenous people of the region, of whom there were 5 separate groups. Some were seafarers and fishermen; some hunter-gatherers; some nomads. It is thought, by some academics, that the seafarers arrived from Polynesia, and the nomads from North America - less than 10,000 years ago. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s37uixEMlBw/VnGq1y_33II/AAAAAAAAQ6k/oj9WgCaZrmw/s1600/DSC_2203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s37uixEMlBw/VnGq1y_33II/AAAAAAAAQ6k/oj9WgCaZrmw/s320/DSC_2203.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wulaia Bay - in the 19th century, missionaries brought Fuegans from here to the Falklands, and the UK.</td></tr>
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Some communities kept fires constantly burning in their canoes to keep warm. And when Spanish sailors reported back to their King that it was a land of smoke, he replied, "there is no smoke without fire, so it is the Land of Fire - Tierra del Fuego!"<br />
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Sadly, most indigenous people were wiped out after coming into contact with Europeans and their exotic diseases. In the mid-19th century, missionaries from the UK established a mission station on Keppel Island in the Falklands, and brought over some Fuegans to try and "improve" the lot of the indigenous people. Different times.<br />
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Ushuaia, above, is the main city of Tierra del Fuego, and the embarkation point for most Antarctic cruises. You might notice the Andes rising up to the north and east, yet this is Argentina - it should be on the other side of the mountains! The border area around the Beagle Channel has been hotly disputed in the past. It was only relatively recently resolved by Papal intervention....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQ0T-MSLRA0/VnGq14JbRWI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/mpX4sNOniKU/s1600/DSC_2302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQ0T-MSLRA0/VnGq14JbRWI/AAAAAAAAQ6k/mpX4sNOniKU/s320/DSC_2302.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Magellan Straits, to mainland South America.</td></tr>
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After leaving Ushuaia, our ship would return by a different route to Punta Arenas, arriving around the same time that our weekly flight to the Falklands departed! So, we had to leave the ship in Ushuaia, and get a bus north, in order to catch that flight. Once over the Andes, we travelled across the pampas for 12 hours on a bus that had seen better days. After 3 hours, we discovered the toilet door had no handle and couldn't be opened! The highlight of the journey was the short crossing of the Straits of Magellan. Named after the sailor who discovered them and opened up the New World, saving the dangerous trip around Cape Horn. They were suitable choppy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WINu19BTZSU/VnVelnnpSvI/AAAAAAAAQ8s/KHxrT6DOosM/s1600/P1290314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WINu19BTZSU/VnVelnnpSvI/AAAAAAAAQ8s/KHxrT6DOosM/s320/P1290314.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-neck swans at Puerto Natales</td></tr>
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After a brief refreshment (Cerveza Austral) in the Shackleton Bar in Punta Arenas, all too soon our Patagonian adventure was over.<br />
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At the Punta Arenas airport, we mingled with scores of passengers heading for Stanley to board their ship, the Akademik Vavilov - more of which in 2016! They were sailing for South Georgia, where they were going to film a re-creation of Shackleton's famous walk across the island in 1916. Camera teams were accompanying them. Our enthusiasm about the project waned slightly when we realised that all their ski-ing and filming equipment would mean no room on the plane for fresh fruit and vegetables for the Falklands! And so it proved! Back to Earth.<br />
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Fin del Mundo - The End of the World!<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
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<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-86712581823955798842015-12-16T10:41:00.000-08:002016-02-03T07:00:20.641-08:00Saunders Island revisited![This is an intermittent archive of my life, with my wife, on the Falkland Islands, roughly 400 miles east of Argentina, in the South Atlantic].<br />
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There's a saying about London buses, that you might wait for one for ages, then three turn up at once..... Well, I have lived in the Falklands for 4 years now, and until this month (January 2016), had not been on Saunders Island - one of the premier wildlife locations here. Then, I visited it twice in one week! <br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k1lxxENe70s/VrDWQSkK5NI/AAAAAAAARuU/jbHzRPV9OGo/s1600/P1340143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k1lxxENe70s/VrDWQSkK5NI/AAAAAAAARuU/jbHzRPV9OGo/s320/P1340143.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">One of several empty beaches</td></tr>
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As I mentioned in the "Antarctic Adventures" post, the finale to an amazing trip to Antarctica was enjoying the spectacular scenery and wildlife on Saunders Island - long, sandy beaches and thousands of penguins and albatrosses.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_xVckTT3WiM/VrDWVK_NqwI/AAAAAAAARuo/_Q02qivdi6s/s1600/P1340158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_xVckTT3WiM/VrDWVK_NqwI/AAAAAAAARuo/_Q02qivdi6s/s320/P1340158.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Growing albatross chick</td></tr>
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By a coincidence, my wife had booked, weeks previously, a weekend trip to Saunders for the following week. We were saying farewell to some friends who were returning to the UK, and they, too, had not been to Saunders, either.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6q9SGy9dW_Q/VrDWRIeurdI/AAAAAAAARuY/miTb5YdBqZs/s1600/P1340079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6q9SGy9dW_Q/VrDWRIeurdI/AAAAAAAARuY/miTb5YdBqZs/s320/P1340079.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port Egmont. Union flag raised in 1765. Taken down again in ....1770.</td></tr>
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As well as the wildlife, Saunders Island is famous in these parts as the place where the British flag was first raised, in 1765. Unfortunately, a year earlier, the French had raised <i>their </i>flag on a nearby island.... Neither party knew of the other's existence for about another year. After a few years, Britain withdrew from the islands, but returned in 1833, when the French and Spanish had also abandoned the region. The garrison ruins are still clearly visible. <br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Egmont" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Egmont</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v6GlBppi5LM/VrDWVc1f3tI/AAAAAAAARuw/JoNOZRdo_4Y/s1600/P1340149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v6GlBppi5LM/VrDWVc1f3tI/AAAAAAAARuw/JoNOZRdo_4Y/s320/P1340149.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching the albatrosses at the Rookery</td></tr>
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We had enjoyed the wildlife so much the previous week, that we couldn't wait to see more. We had been at the Neck when we had landed from the Akademik Vavilov, our ship. This time, we got a lift to another part of the island, the Rookery, which had large Black-Browed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguin colonies.<br />
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As there were only about two other people in the vicinity, we had the birds almost to ourselves. And we could sit and watch the parent and chick interactions for hours, without disturbing them.<br />
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Once the chicks leave the nest, they spend about 4 years circling the globe, living on the wing. They then return to the Falklands to breed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4hzZ-upLu6k/VrDWaefsuiI/AAAAAAAARvI/DV35YoH5DwQ/s1600/P1340199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4hzZ-upLu6k/VrDWaefsuiI/AAAAAAAARvI/DV35YoH5DwQ/s320/P1340199.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy parents</td></tr>
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The birds are ungainly on the ground, but the almost-constant wind around the Falklands enables them to effortlessly soar and glide when they take off.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f7J9Kvxem5c/VrDWbHmVNBI/AAAAAAAARvQ/kcobp6ViDgs/s1600/P1340212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f7J9Kvxem5c/VrDWbHmVNBI/AAAAAAAARvQ/kcobp6ViDgs/s320/P1340212.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the feet!</td></tr>
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Whilst feeding their chicks, these beautiful birds might travel to waters around Tierra del Fuego to feed. Around 1200 miles there and back in a couple of days. We may well have seen some of these birds during our voyage from Antarctica, earlier in the month.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TSPODKwZuHg/VrDWdbKPiAI/AAAAAAAARvY/CLMbpM9HHKk/s1600/P1340235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TSPODKwZuHg/VrDWdbKPiAI/AAAAAAAARvY/CLMbpM9HHKk/s320/P1340235.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rockhoppers with chick.</td></tr>
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Close by was a large colony of Rockhopper penguins, whose chicks were now old enough to be left in creches while the adults went out to sea to fish each day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AiaZeJyt3DU/VrDWeWJgcCI/AAAAAAAARvg/gf7OiBDIuBI/s1600/P1340236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AiaZeJyt3DU/VrDWeWJgcCI/AAAAAAAARvg/gf7OiBDIuBI/s320/P1340236.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock shag and large chick</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jT6p6JMIRto/VrDWiFoKlPI/AAAAAAAARvs/rFbSfTm0CpU/s1600/P1340265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jT6p6JMIRto/VrDWiFoKlPI/AAAAAAAARvs/rFbSfTm0CpU/s320/P1340265.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another empty beach, or it might be the same one.</td></tr>
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After we had had our fill of flying and flightless wildlife, we set off back to the settlement along the Land Rover track. I'm guessing it was about 6 miles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E7REb_accew/VrDWh17glRI/AAAAAAAARvo/VDh-GccKfwM/s1600/P1340285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E7REb_accew/VrDWh17glRI/AAAAAAAARvo/VDh-GccKfwM/s320/P1340285.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different empty beach. Keppel Island across the water.</td></tr>
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We saw no-one else for 3 hours. Blue skies, warm breezes... Enjoyed a picnic on the beach. It's not always like this!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pO8ad-QIqXk/VrDWiVCzSeI/AAAAAAAARvw/BcWzCGNC9Zw/s1600/P1340299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pO8ad-QIqXk/VrDWiVCzSeI/AAAAAAAARvw/BcWzCGNC9Zw/s320/P1340299.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good track</td></tr>
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The path gradually climbed up to a saddle, just below the summit of Mt Egmont, at about 1,500 feet, so we took a slight detour to the top and drank in the views.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uWiCItQtFAU/VrDWm4YlnyI/AAAAAAAARwM/dCLVK62eoWU/s1600/P1340318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uWiCItQtFAU/VrDWm4YlnyI/AAAAAAAARwM/dCLVK62eoWU/s320/P1340318.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt Egmont summit</td></tr>
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The views were extensive - the settlement and airstrip below us; West Falklands, to the south; Keppel and Pebble Islands to the east, and the extent of Saunders stretching to the Neck, to the west.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ewEv4T-P6Xc/VrDWlkqb0AI/AAAAAAAARwA/PtSC-F3sy5k/s1600/P1340325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ewEv4T-P6Xc/VrDWlkqb0AI/AAAAAAAARwA/PtSC-F3sy5k/s320/P1340325.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Settlement below Mt Egmont</td></tr>
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Back in the settlement, which is basically a farm with about 20 buildings, we could enjoy a veritable multitude of domesticated animals - pigs, ducks, geese, horses, lambs, cows, chickens - not to mention the wild Striated Caracaras, Upland Geese, Magellanic Oystercatchers, Kelp Geese, and so on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mmQ9-5vQbwo/VrDWnImbSoI/AAAAAAAARwI/DbT22wmOQdw/s1600/P1340351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mmQ9-5vQbwo/VrDWnImbSoI/AAAAAAAARwI/DbT22wmOQdw/s320/P1340351.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farm guard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BkXqLNx5mrE/VrDWoPU8y3I/AAAAAAAARwU/OgolGCdDsaE/s1600/P1340360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BkXqLNx5mrE/VrDWoPU8y3I/AAAAAAAARwU/OgolGCdDsaE/s320/P1340360.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pate</td></tr>
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The shearing gang were about to arrive to separate the 3,000+ sheep from their wool. It was a busy time of year, with dozens of visitors coming and going every week, plus cruise ships calling in.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OTjlssOdnXk/VrDWqIDZCQI/AAAAAAAARwg/OzJ-Yt_KPJQ/s1600/P1340398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OTjlssOdnXk/VrDWqIDZCQI/AAAAAAAARwg/OzJ-Yt_KPJQ/s320/P1340398.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saunders airport</td></tr>
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All too soon, our weekend break was finishing. Our FIGAS (Falkland Islands Government Air Service) flight arrived and we clambered aboard. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4OhkzhNNXJU/VrDWq-KyFsI/AAAAAAAARwk/gLz-v7vXDg8/s1600/P1340428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4OhkzhNNXJU/VrDWq-KyFsI/AAAAAAAARwk/gLz-v7vXDg8/s320/P1340428.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buzzing the ferry on its way to the West.</td></tr>
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Ten minutes later, we dropped off a couple of passengers at Pebble Island, then headed back across Falkland Sound to East Falkland and Stanley.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ECRrpyRLbGU/VrDWsZerYEI/AAAAAAAARww/RSLSTObh7hc/s1600/P1340446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ECRrpyRLbGU/VrDWsZerYEI/AAAAAAAARww/RSLSTObh7hc/s320/P1340446.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Stanley </td></tr>
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Flying low over Stanley harbour, we could easily make out specific buildings in the town. The blue roof covers the Town Hall, court and Post Office. To the left, the bank. To the right, Penguin News office, and Historic Dockyard Museum.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v8LBoH1sA2k/VrDWs-OwboI/AAAAAAAARw0/XJoIntvOTek/s1600/P1340447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v8LBoH1sA2k/VrDWs-OwboI/AAAAAAAARw0/XJoIntvOTek/s320/P1340447.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley</td></tr>
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Had it been worth going back so soon? Well, I would say so. The bird colonies had been different, and we had been almost entirely alone for the day. And instead of squeezing into a zodiac and zipping through the waves to our ship, followed by dinner with the Captain, we had a convivial dinner, with wine, listening to friends recounting their bumpy rides to and from the Neck and their close encounters with King penguins.<br />
<br />
Same island, different experiences.... I'd go again!<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-5614354438954176782015-12-16T06:16:00.001-08:002015-12-16T06:16:23.993-08:00Penguins Galore! New Beer! [An intermittent missive from a British expat in the Falkland Islands.....Now completing our 4th year here..]<br />
<br />
Hi,<br />
<br />
I realise it's been a while since my last update, and a lot has happened in the world and the Falkland Islands since then....... A cruise ship, Le Boreal, was evacuated just offshore, and 357 people were looking for beds for the night! My wife and I have spent some time travelling in the UK and Patagonia, and are about to make another journey soon. These and other activities have conspired to delay me updating this blog. That, and I am a compulsive procrastinator!<br />
<br />
So, to get up to date, here are some photos from the past week. I thought I would revert to the penguin theme!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2VYKZJW3bAE/VnFohTVoa9I/AAAAAAAAQ40/4vu04L5yT94/s1600/P1310623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2VYKZJW3bAE/VnFohTVoa9I/AAAAAAAAQ40/4vu04L5yT94/s320/P1310623.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
We came across this friendly fella, a King Penguin, on Surf Bay during one of our regular walks. He approached us - not the other way around - and may have mistook us for friends!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r9wlMNFK-YA/VnFohV7QN0I/AAAAAAAAQ44/5qxqN_DqNrQ/s1600/P1310632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r9wlMNFK-YA/VnFohV7QN0I/AAAAAAAAQ44/5qxqN_DqNrQ/s320/P1310632.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calling for friends?</td></tr>
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Often, penguins come ashore when moulting or if their feathers are oiled and have lost their waterproofness. But this guy seemed healthy enough.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naOsm5FBl9Q/VnFoih_7NhI/AAAAAAAAQ5E/3_LCjJ-lsnQ/s1600/P1310635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naOsm5FBl9Q/VnFoih_7NhI/AAAAAAAAQ5E/3_LCjJ-lsnQ/s320/P1310635.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking with penguin.</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KOT4BwjItu8/VnFoj-VWlpI/AAAAAAAAQ5M/K1LUE5CSt5Q/s1600/P1310660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KOT4BwjItu8/VnFoj-VWlpI/AAAAAAAAQ5M/K1LUE5CSt5Q/s320/P1310660.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Some other exciting news in Stanley was the bottling of beer from Falklands Beerworks, a local micro-brewery. About 4 beers are made by the brewer, Jeff, and Rockhopper is my favourite, although the others are tasty, too.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cxPfuLbqvlU/VnFoFM0jP8I/AAAAAAAAQ4Q/g9GCfZSFf9I/s1600/P1310669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cxPfuLbqvlU/VnFoFM0jP8I/AAAAAAAAQ4Q/g9GCfZSFf9I/s320/P1310669.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
In an effort to combat the side-effects of beer, I regularly Nordic Walk, and have encouraged small groups to explore the environs of Stanley.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XTjAnYAOnzc/VnFoFFPUNfI/AAAAAAAAQ4M/L6Lz3Kf6JhY/s1600/P1310671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XTjAnYAOnzc/VnFoFFPUNfI/AAAAAAAAQ4M/L6Lz3Kf6JhY/s320/P1310671.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King and Magellanic penguins</td></tr>
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Yesterday evening was warm, sunny and calm, and as we hiked through the sand dunes, we were greeted by a vast swathe of beach covered in penguins! Not only several hundred of the resident Gentoos, but 5 King penguins, and a number of migratory Magellanic!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9-dsAU60WyE/VnFoFbo_D9I/AAAAAAAAQ4U/59NvOLiQwZw/s1600/P1310676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9-dsAU60WyE/VnFoFbo_D9I/AAAAAAAAQ4U/59NvOLiQwZw/s320/P1310676.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nordic Walkers and penguins on the shore.</td></tr>
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Previously, we had only ever seen Gentoo penguins on this beach. It is very quiet and surrounded by a barbed-wire fence, due to the minefield - a legacy of the Argentine occupation in 1982.<br />
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However, in this case, it is probably now beneficial from a penguin point of view. They are too light to trigger the mines, and it means they aren't pestered by people or dogs being exercised on the beach!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJuEQF-RTOI/VnFoIPk1yUI/AAAAAAAAQ4k/D_QbJHuJOlA/s1600/P1310683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJuEQF-RTOI/VnFoIPk1yUI/AAAAAAAAQ4k/D_QbJHuJOlA/s320/P1310683.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where else in the world can you watch penguins so easily? OK, apart from Cape Town.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sRzCvjgMkv8/VnFvDh6UkjI/AAAAAAAAQ5c/LT7a8ypD2XI/s1600/P1310686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sRzCvjgMkv8/VnFvDh6UkjI/AAAAAAAAQ5c/LT7a8ypD2XI/s320/P1310686.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h3>
Peter's Penguin Post!</h3>
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Meanwhile, my birthday had been marked by a couple of trips to my favourite islands in the archipelago. Photos to follow. And many thanks to the kind messages from friends. Sadly, no free bus pass was forthcoming - there are no public buses here...<br />
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And a surprise package on the doorstep. What can it be???!!<br />
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Must start writing the Christmas Card! Season's Greetings to all!<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-86818714139463541402015-09-04T10:08:00.001-07:002015-09-04T10:08:30.705-07:00Searching for Napoleon, in the middle of the South Atlantic.[Hello, again! As a change from the usual news of the Falkland Islands, I have enlisted a guest blogger this month. Earlier this year, my best friend, soul-mate and darling wife travelled to the very remote islands of Ascension and St Helena. For reasons too boring to go into, I stayed at home watching the PC, in case a Skype message appeared. It didn't....until she arrived at Cape Town!<br />
<br />
Below is her account and photos of her trip to find Napoleon's (almost) last resting place.....!]<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-65Npu6lQaxI/VeXxUd1D2hI/AAAAAAAALbU/vDc4z8Vj3Ws/s1600/1%2BThe%2BRMS%2BSt%2BHelena.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-65Npu6lQaxI/VeXxUd1D2hI/AAAAAAAALbU/vDc4z8Vj3Ws/s320/1%2BThe%2BRMS%2BSt%2BHelena.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RMS St Helena</td></tr>
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Until the new airport is opened next year, the only way to get to St Helena is by ship. It is about 1,200 miles west of the Angola coast and 2,500 miles east of Rio de Janiero. The only ship that regularly calls there is the Royal Mail Ship, St Helena, which plies between the UK, Ascension Island, St Helena and Cape Town.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UmjTrY8Sa68/VeXxivLHu1I/AAAAAAAALc0/Oy7O6_sGZyw/s1600/2%2BBoarding.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UmjTrY8Sa68/VeXxivLHu1I/AAAAAAAALc0/Oy7O6_sGZyw/s320/2%2BBoarding.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boarding</td></tr>
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Fortunately for residents of the Falkland Islands, getting to Ascension Island is relatively straightforward. Twice a week, flights to and from the UK (RAF Brize Norton) refuel there. Ascension is near the Equator and a fascinating place. See earlier blogs for more detail.<br />
"Ascending Ascension" > <a href="http://peterspenguinpost.blogspot.com/2013/05/ascending-ascension.html" target="_blank">http://peterspenguinpost.blogspot.com/2013/05/ascending-ascension.html</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qAf0dAgx3v8/VeXxu-XZrQI/AAAAAAAALeA/LJYp4jArjMw/s1600/3%2BWelcome%2BAboard.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qAf0dAgx3v8/VeXxu-XZrQI/AAAAAAAALeA/LJYp4jArjMw/s320/3%2BWelcome%2BAboard.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome Aboard!</td></tr>
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So, in March, my wife and our friend, Bx, flew 4000 miles north to Ascension, to wait for the St Helena. On the following Saturday, they boarded one of the last voyages of the ship to Cape Town.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZLNslF0icA/VeXx1wwQGDI/AAAAAAAALew/LKoyVYQgC5A/s1600/4%2BJohn%2Bthe%2BPurser%2Borganises%2Bdeck%2Bgames.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZLNslF0icA/VeXx1wwQGDI/AAAAAAAALew/LKoyVYQgC5A/s320/4%2BJohn%2Bthe%2BPurser%2Borganises%2Bdeck%2Bgames.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John the Purser organising deck games.</td></tr>
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It takes almost three days sailing to reach St Helena. On board, there are a wide range of activities to entertain passengers, despite this not being your normal cruise liner!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K675ZrtY070/VeXx2-RfM0I/AAAAAAAALe8/k0Wc4lenljI/s1600/5%2BThe%2Bseawater%2Bpool%2Bin%2Bcalm%2Bconditions.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K675ZrtY070/VeXx2-RfM0I/AAAAAAAALe8/k0Wc4lenljI/s320/5%2BThe%2Bseawater%2Bpool%2Bin%2Bcalm%2Bconditions.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calm waters in the seawater swimming pool</td></tr>
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Eventually, just when you are getting the hang of deck quoits, the looming hills of St Helena come into view. As in Ascension, there is no harbour, so unloading cargo and passengers is a time-consuming business.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TgQ7b3jlzBg/VeXx4vzmlWI/AAAAAAAALfE/qcI1ucCfk-Y/s1600/6%2B%2BArriving%2Bat%2BSt%2BHelena.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TgQ7b3jlzBg/VeXx4vzmlWI/AAAAAAAALfE/qcI1ucCfk-Y/s320/6%2B%2BArriving%2Bat%2BSt%2BHelena.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at St Helena</td></tr>
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Due to the irregular pattern of the ship's schedule, passengers could either stay 1 night on the island, or wait for the ship to return from Cape Town in 2 weeks, to take them back to Ascension. My wife could only stay one night, so there followed a whirlwind 24 hours of touring to make the most of their time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ddky-Iwxjkc/VeXx5zYfM6I/AAAAAAAALfM/isIL0nL_aJ4/s1600/7%2BRaising%2Bthe%2Bflag.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ddky-Iwxjkc/VeXx5zYfM6I/AAAAAAAALfM/isIL0nL_aJ4/s320/7%2BRaising%2Bthe%2Bflag.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raising the flag</td></tr>
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Once ashore, they checked in to their hotel, then found the tour "bus" which would help them explore the highlights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6uh6rVQbtFk/VeXx52yxfsI/AAAAAAAALfQ/ldHrhtDEz9c/s1600/8%2BThe%2BWellington%2BHotel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6uh6rVQbtFk/VeXx52yxfsI/AAAAAAAALfQ/ldHrhtDEz9c/s320/8%2BThe%2BWellington%2BHotel.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington Hotel, Jamestown</td></tr>
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The island was discovered, uninhabited, by the Portugese in 1502, but most of its development happened in the early 19th century, when it was decided to use this remote re-victualling outpost, as the secure exile for Napoleon Bonaparte, recent loser of the Battle of Waterloo, and general troublemaker of Europe.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xw1M2z-A6J0/VeXx7VmSWrI/AAAAAAAALfc/2g5pjOthrFE/s1600/9%2BOur%2Btour%2Bbus.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xw1M2z-A6J0/VeXx7VmSWrI/AAAAAAAALfc/2g5pjOthrFE/s320/9%2BOur%2Btour%2Bbus.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tour charabanc!</td></tr>
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For more information about St Helena, try here >> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Helena" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Helena</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3VQsUJS--LE/VeXxVpG_V9I/AAAAAAAALbg/LavpqFhcfd0/s1600/10%2BDistillery%2BShop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3VQsUJS--LE/VeXxVpG_V9I/AAAAAAAALbg/LavpqFhcfd0/s320/10%2BDistillery%2BShop.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Distillery shop</td></tr>
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Making use of the plants that grow there, the world's most remote distillery produces Jamestown gin, spiced rum, Cacti pear spirit and Midnight Mist coffee liqueur.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxd3fcs2xPs/VeXxVqiFqQI/AAAAAAAALbc/SdPGm2_173U/s1600/11%2BLongwood%2BHouse%2B-%2Bresidence%2Bof%2BNapoleon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxd3fcs2xPs/VeXxVqiFqQI/AAAAAAAALbc/SdPGm2_173U/s320/11%2BLongwood%2BHouse%2B-%2Bresidence%2Bof%2BNapoleon.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Longwood House - Napoleon's residence</td></tr>
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Napoleon served his exile in Longwood House, a plantation mansion. He died there in 1821, and was originally buried in the island, but his body was re-patriated to Paris in 1840.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mcR0ZkLWdR4/VeXxXA-GiiI/AAAAAAAALbs/eYObb3tV-iM/s1600/12%2BA%2Blittle%2Bpiece%2Bof%2BFrance.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mcR0ZkLWdR4/VeXxXA-GiiI/AAAAAAAALbs/eYObb3tV-iM/s320/12%2BA%2Blittle%2Bpiece%2Bof%2BFrance.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A corner of France</td></tr>
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However, the house and grounds were given to the French nation in 1858, in recognition of the importance this spot has in its history.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-faKi47mUFn8/VeXxaY69k1I/AAAAAAAALb4/n0WCZxxNclo/s1600/14%2BThe%2BWay%2Bto%2Bthe%2BTomb.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-faKi47mUFn8/VeXxaY69k1I/AAAAAAAALb4/n0WCZxxNclo/s320/14%2BThe%2BWay%2Bto%2Bthe%2BTomb.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This way to the tomb</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-crE1n8-Fby8/VeXxavQ9idI/AAAAAAAALcA/14MuPnSG9AM/s1600/15%2BBurial%2BGround%2B-%2Bnow%2Bvacant.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-crE1n8-Fby8/VeXxavQ9idI/AAAAAAAALcA/14MuPnSG9AM/s320/15%2BBurial%2BGround%2B-%2Bnow%2Bvacant.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A vacant plot. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_USqTzRm9sg/VeXxczN2FAI/AAAAAAAALcM/1FF9DDC9YQk/s1600/16%2BA%2Bresident%2Bwho%2Bmay%2Bhave%2Bknown%2BNapoleon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_USqTzRm9sg/VeXxczN2FAI/AAAAAAAALcM/1FF9DDC9YQk/s320/16%2BA%2Bresident%2Bwho%2Bmay%2Bhave%2Bknown%2BNapoleon.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathan may have met Napoleon!</td></tr>
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The island is about the size of a sheep farm on the Falklands - about 10 miles by 5. 47 square miles or 120 square kilometres. The population is just over 4000, but many "Saints" live and work in the UK or Ascension or the Falklands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LrFNr1r-nW4/VeXxeJwbmXI/AAAAAAAALcU/5n5Q3Ac96Eo/s1600/17%2BPlantation%2BHouse%2B-%2Bwith%2Btortoise%2Blawnmover.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LrFNr1r-nW4/VeXxeJwbmXI/AAAAAAAALcU/5n5Q3Ac96Eo/s320/17%2BPlantation%2BHouse%2B-%2Bwith%2Btortoise%2Blawnmover.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Governor's Residence, Plantation House - with tortoise lawn-mower</td></tr>
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The old Georgian plantation houses still have their elegant gardens, kept trim by the roaming wild tortoises, some of whom may have been sprightly youngsters when Napoleon was around!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rfb0mybVqS4/VeXxenWR91I/AAAAAAAALcY/2ShydLce5cc/s1600/18%2BBeward%2Bof%2Bthe%2Btortoise.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rfb0mybVqS4/VeXxenWR91I/AAAAAAAALcY/2ShydLce5cc/s320/18%2BBeward%2Bof%2Bthe%2Btortoise.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beware of the Tortoise</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NmaRJGpBdBc/VeXxiDWnUtI/AAAAAAAALcs/negtcdzdaqo/s1600/20%2BJacob%2527s%2BLadder.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NmaRJGpBdBc/VeXxiDWnUtI/AAAAAAAALcs/negtcdzdaqo/s320/20%2BJacob%2527s%2BLadder.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacob's ladder</td></tr>
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The island was fortified to help repel potential rescuers of Napoleon, and a ladder of 699 steps was built to connect the capital, Jamestown, in the canyon, with the fort, on the hill above.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-__wriYJx6_M/VeXxkKh4gqI/AAAAAAAALc8/9mcKnj4zvQ4/s1600/21%2BTop%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bladder.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-__wriYJx6_M/VeXxkKh4gqI/AAAAAAAALc8/9mcKnj4zvQ4/s320/21%2BTop%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bladder.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of the ladder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvbpX2SFiY0/VeXxl2dAMAI/AAAAAAAALdE/1Mq033PG3ls/s1600/22%2BJamestown%2Bfrom%2B699%2Bsteps%2Bup.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvbpX2SFiY0/VeXxl2dAMAI/AAAAAAAALdE/1Mq033PG3ls/s320/22%2BJamestown%2Bfrom%2B699%2Bsteps%2Bup.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jamestown from 700 steps up</td></tr>
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The main town, Jamestown, nestles in a narrow canyon. Most of the island is covered with flax, which once supported an industry making rope and string. Now exports come from the distillery and from production of what is said to be the world's most expensive coffee.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tFXGKTic1-8/VeXxm0CcDeI/AAAAAAAALdM/6qTkQYKiUWw/s1600/23%2BHarbour%2BView.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tFXGKTic1-8/VeXxm0CcDeI/AAAAAAAALdM/6qTkQYKiUWw/s320/23%2BHarbour%2BView.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harbour view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1TVUiWass5M/VeXxoMHuI1I/AAAAAAAALdU/BoiU8L2kmK4/s1600/24%2BWi-fi%2B%2526%2Bshade%2Bat%2Bthe%2BConsulate%2BHotel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1TVUiWass5M/VeXxoMHuI1I/AAAAAAAALdU/BoiU8L2kmK4/s320/24%2BWi-fi%2B%2526%2Bshade%2Bat%2Bthe%2BConsulate%2BHotel.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wifi and shade at the Consulate Hotel</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PJBsGJxMytU/VeXxf7JOk2I/AAAAAAAALck/Eg0Ujf6yVQ0/s1600/19%2BThe%2Broad%2Bto%2Bthe%2Bnew%2Bairport.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PJBsGJxMytU/VeXxf7JOk2I/AAAAAAAALck/Eg0Ujf6yVQ0/s320/19%2BThe%2Broad%2Bto%2Bthe%2Bnew%2Bairport.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The road to the new airport</td></tr>
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But all this remoteness and solitude is about to be ripped apart by the arrival of an airport next year. It will have regular flights from Johannesburg, from where travellers can connect with the rest of the world. However, there are many people who would have liked to have seen a regular flight connecting the islands in the South Atlantic, not least those Saints who travel home to families at Christmas. Now they will have to fly via London or Brazil to South Africa first!<br />
==========================================================<br />
All too soon, passengers and freight were brought on board, and the trip resumed. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BgicaR2oZiE/VeXxpYaHZ6I/AAAAAAAALdc/06x5M4PC4OE/s1600/25%2BFarewell%2BSt%2BHelena.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BgicaR2oZiE/VeXxpYaHZ6I/AAAAAAAALdc/06x5M4PC4OE/s320/25%2BFarewell%2BSt%2BHelena.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farewell to St Helena</td></tr>
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Time to slow down and enjoy the trip.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oimD6A0XdNg/VeXxq9Cr0VI/AAAAAAAALdk/pyEuljIlAPI/s1600/26%2BBack%2Bon%2Bboard%2Band%2Bthe%2Bchallenge%2Bof%2B%2Bdeck%2Bquoits.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oimD6A0XdNg/VeXxq9Cr0VI/AAAAAAAALdk/pyEuljIlAPI/s320/26%2BBack%2Bon%2Bboard%2Band%2Bthe%2Bchallenge%2Bof%2B%2Bdeck%2Bquoits.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back to the challenge of deck quoits</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Life on the ship makes the most of calm sailing conditions and sunny days with traditional deck games and a pool to cool off in.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aXmz7bRj-Kc/VeXxsFYQNuI/AAAAAAAALds/zISmze_shEY/s1600/27%2BSundowners%2Bat%2Bthe%2BCaptain%2527s%2BCocktail%2BParty.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aXmz7bRj-Kc/VeXxsFYQNuI/AAAAAAAALds/zISmze_shEY/s320/27%2BSundowners%2Bat%2Bthe%2BCaptain%2527s%2BCocktail%2BParty.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Captain's sundowner cocktail party..</td></tr>
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Deckchairs were rearranged.....and the pavilion made ready.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UesviSgi0HY/VeXxt12XI5I/AAAAAAAALd0/c64PpHavBic/s1600/28%2BReady%2Bfor%2Bthe%2BCrew%2Bv%2BPassengers%2BCricket%2BMatch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UesviSgi0HY/VeXxt12XI5I/AAAAAAAALd0/c64PpHavBic/s320/28%2BReady%2Bfor%2Bthe%2BCrew%2Bv%2BPassengers%2BCricket%2BMatch.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you ever wondered what "rearranged deckchairs" looked like......</td></tr>
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One eagerly-anticipated activity was the 'Crew versus the Passengers' cricket match. Recalling the almost-forgotten days of slow travel before long-haul flights, when touring cricket teams had to spend six months on a ship to reach their opponents on the other side of the world....Oh, did anyone see the Ashes this year?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nRTYWNjQ-fA/VeXxuu1ML4I/AAAAAAAALd8/lELqmNfVUmw/s1600/29%2BThe%2BSouth%2BAfricans%2Btake%2Bit%2Bvery%2Bseriously.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nRTYWNjQ-fA/VeXxuu1ML4I/AAAAAAAALd8/lELqmNfVUmw/s320/29%2BThe%2BSouth%2BAfricans%2Btake%2Bit%2Bvery%2Bseriously.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crew vs Passengers cricket match</td></tr>
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Playing cricket on a ship really helps improve your game, especially if you are in the fielding side. There were some complaints about dampness on the boundary, though!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oT5WyR3VHRI/VeXxw0jTQ-I/AAAAAAAALeM/_y6_mDnqUbc/s1600/30%2BThe%2BRMS%2BQuiz%2B-%2Bthe%2Bwinning%2Bteam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oT5WyR3VHRI/VeXxw0jTQ-I/AAAAAAAALeM/_y6_mDnqUbc/s320/30%2BThe%2BRMS%2BQuiz%2B-%2Bthe%2Bwinning%2Bteam.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The winning Quiz team!</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Post dinner entertainment caters for varied interests and talents, bingo, darts, quizzes being more familiar to most than frog racing. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WTQF6QwIIHY/VeXxyE92YbI/AAAAAAAALeU/TYmeD-O80Sg/s1600/31%2BLast%2Bnight%2B-%2BPrizegiving%2B%2526%2BFrog%2BRacing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WTQF6QwIIHY/VeXxyE92YbI/AAAAAAAALeU/TYmeD-O80Sg/s320/31%2BLast%2Bnight%2B-%2BPrizegiving%2B%2526%2BFrog%2BRacing.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last night prize-giving and frog-racing</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The journey from St Helena to Cape Town takes 5 days, but they fly by and all too soon a familiar shape comes into sight.......</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J6CSVOY08jY/VeXxyJ8fRAI/AAAAAAAALeQ/EuV-IbOVxR4/s1600/32%2BSunrise%2B-%2Bwe%2Brecognise%2Bthat%2Bmountain.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J6CSVOY08jY/VeXxyJ8fRAI/AAAAAAAALeQ/EuV-IbOVxR4/s320/32%2BSunrise%2B-%2Bwe%2Brecognise%2Bthat%2Bmountain.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise over South Africa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Uxb5z99QToE/VeXxzWgkEtI/AAAAAAAALek/Wex9aAGIeGg/s1600/33%2BComing%2Binto%2BCape%2BTown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Uxb5z99QToE/VeXxzWgkEtI/AAAAAAAALek/Wex9aAGIeGg/s320/33%2BComing%2Binto%2BCape%2BTown.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unmistakable Table Mountain</td></tr>
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Do you remember the Tony Bennett classic "I left my heart in San Francisco....."<br />
<br />
Well, Spike Milligan of The Goons wrote a tribute....<br />
"I left my teeth, on Table Mountain..<br />
High on a hill, they smile at me!" :-)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_1SpDEZIjY/VeXx1ifeJFI/AAAAAAAALes/pNh5W021WK4/s1600/34%2BFarewll%2Bto%2Bthe%2BRMS%2B-%2Ba%2Bfew%2Bvoyages%2Bstill%2Bto%2Bgo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_1SpDEZIjY/VeXx1ifeJFI/AAAAAAAALes/pNh5W021WK4/s320/34%2BFarewll%2Bto%2Bthe%2BRMS%2B-%2Ba%2Bfew%2Bvoyages%2Bstill%2Bto%2Bgo.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farewell to the RMS. Only a few voyage left.....</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The RMS finishes its regular schedule, providing supplies and a link to the outside world for the St Helenian population, in April 2016. After three special voyages that take in a trip up to London and a final trip to the even more remote British Oversea Territory of Tristan De Cunha it will sail into Cape Town for the last time on 15th July 2016 F</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">lights will be the new link to the Island, but the joy of slow travel will be lost.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">So, a fascinating and unique journey. Now, all my wife had to do was to get back to the Falklands from South Africa.....easier said than done!</span><br />
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<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-41901231808535762842015-09-03T12:28:00.000-07:002015-09-03T12:28:23.657-07:00Pebble winter escape.[Welcome to an occasional look at life on the Falkland Islands, from the point of view of a couple of UK expats: working here for a few years and enjoying what the islands have to offer]<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mfLGMPU7C98/VeiM_bf04iI/AAAAAAAALjc/vvWKF605qcY/s1600/P1290035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mfLGMPU7C98/VeiM_bf04iI/AAAAAAAALjc/vvWKF605qcY/s320/P1290035.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The snow that fell in June had long gone. But, in late August, subsequent short snow showers had again carpeted the capital, Stanley, in a white blanket. This made it seem like a long winter, so my wife and I decided to escape to a remote island. Luckily, there is no shortage in the archipelago, but we chose Pebble, again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JvWzvgXTFR8/VedQOd9jV5I/AAAAAAAALfs/xqaha8cTcDc/s1600/P1290058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JvWzvgXTFR8/VedQOd9jV5I/AAAAAAAALfs/xqaha8cTcDc/s320/P1290058.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow squall approaching Gypsy Cove</td></tr>
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As we took off in the 8-seater plane, we climbed quickly into the gale that was bringing more squalls from the west. Being one of the two passengers on the 40-minute flight, it was quickly decided that I would sit beside the pilot! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R-ihxKVmfuM/VedQObm87hI/AAAAAAAALfw/GKSz8pyL-W0/s1600/P1290088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R-ihxKVmfuM/VedQObm87hI/AAAAAAAALfw/GKSz8pyL-W0/s320/P1290088.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High tide prevented landing here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unfortunately, the tide was high, so we missed out on the chance to experience a rare beach landing. The beach on Pebble Island is about 4 miles long, and we were to see a lot of it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QWsop4ADCr4/VedQkdDZBHI/AAAAAAAALh8/91LzkdM_m5o/s1600/P1290196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QWsop4ADCr4/VedQkdDZBHI/AAAAAAAALh8/91LzkdM_m5o/s320/P1290196.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Nest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HNBTnQQlt0I/VedQOa0rTPI/AAAAAAAALf0/J6og8Ac7D9s/s1600/P1290101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HNBTnQQlt0I/VedQOa0rTPI/AAAAAAAALf0/J6og8Ac7D9s/s320/P1290101.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Nest - snug </td></tr>
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We were met at the airstrip, by Riki, the Lodge manager, and our friendly hostess, Dot, who, with her husband, also farms the island. Apart from them, we were the only people on the island.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OWwlJrwjT5k/VedQoGFHz4I/AAAAAAAALiU/ULcsUyB0ZB8/s1600/P1290205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OWwlJrwjT5k/VedQoGFHz4I/AAAAAAAALiU/ULcsUyB0ZB8/s320/P1290205.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working dogs.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lMnPixKjg0A/VedQT9nAmTI/AAAAAAAALgI/kbK78K7sD4A/s1600/P1290138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lMnPixKjg0A/VedQT9nAmTI/AAAAAAAALgI/kbK78K7sD4A/s320/P1290138.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Too early? A sign of Spring?</td></tr>
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We were shown round the self-catering cottage, The Nest, which, unlike Dr Who's Tardis, was as neat and compact on the inside as it seemed from the outside. However, it was beautifully appointed and proved to be a very comfortable bolt-hole.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H7ElYjPff8o/VedQTGwpFOI/AAAAAAAALgE/P74k3xhNYzg/s1600/P1290125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H7ElYjPff8o/VedQTGwpFOI/AAAAAAAALgE/P74k3xhNYzg/s320/P1290125.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Black-necked Swans</td></tr>
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But, we couldn't linger to enjoy the sofa. My wife had spotted some distinctive birds just before we landed and we were keen to get a closer view. These swans are extremely shy, and difficult to get close to. But the pair on Pebble proved to be co-operative, and within a few minutes of arriving, we were sitting watching these graceful creatures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pU244tajPZY/VedQT8c48DI/AAAAAAAALgM/0YaSNp_SDcc/s1600/P1290139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pU244tajPZY/VedQT8c48DI/AAAAAAAALgM/0YaSNp_SDcc/s320/P1290139.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Island cemetery</td></tr>
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After watching the swans till our bums were numb, we wandered round the scattered settlement, wondering what some of the older man-made devices were for originally.....sculptures?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tParIKFSMTg/VedQWZPJfaI/AAAAAAAALgc/B3iiBYTWKTM/s1600/P1290143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tParIKFSMTg/VedQWZPJfaI/AAAAAAAALgc/B3iiBYTWKTM/s320/P1290143.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Any ideas, please?</td></tr>
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The settlement used to be populated by several families - it had a school. But only a couple of Lodge workers, and the farming family, live there now. Some of the houses are being converted for holiday use, and that's how we came to be staying there, as the Lodge was closed for the winter.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hLKvSKK0kz8/VedQXPXRS4I/AAAAAAAALgg/DcrBrW53f18/s1600/P1290145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hLKvSKK0kz8/VedQXPXRS4I/AAAAAAAALgg/DcrBrW53f18/s320/P1290145.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west to the hills.</td></tr>
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Although the settlement of about 10 houses is roughly central and low-lying, it has extensive views to the hills at the west end of the island, about 10 miles away. To the south, other islands, and the hills of West Falkland fill the horizon.<br />
<br />
The next day, the squalls disappeared, and, after a leisurely breakfast of scrambled eggs, we set out to see the swans again, and walk the long, long beach.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7I7yYAATGSk/VedQq0FttKI/AAAAAAAALig/1MTzx1i8sQU/s1600/P1290207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7I7yYAATGSk/VedQq0FttKI/AAAAAAAALig/1MTzx1i8sQU/s320/P1290207.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Pebble Island Lodge. Upland Geese on frozen pond</td></tr>
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What makes the beach seem even longer is that, every time you turn round, you can still see the large lodge in the settlement. The beach is semi-circular, and even after walking for two hours, we were still about the same distance from the lodge!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M19GUQ7kToc/VedQXo37rkI/AAAAAAAALgo/mYVfmZ6vgI0/s1600/P1290164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M19GUQ7kToc/VedQXo37rkI/AAAAAAAALgo/mYVfmZ6vgI0/s320/P1290164.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Near the end of the 4-mile beach. Settlement on the horizon.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-suscdZBvNUQ/VedQa3WhYWI/AAAAAAAALhA/LShEntfmB5s/s1600/P1290178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-suscdZBvNUQ/VedQa3WhYWI/AAAAAAAALhA/LShEntfmB5s/s320/P1290178.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen streams</td></tr>
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Although sunny, it was also very cold, and a few times we slipped on the frozen sand, where a sheen of sheet ice was waiting for the unwary walker! The cry of "Sheet!" rang out<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FREcZzzQRc0/VedQZlvahOI/AAAAAAAALg0/f5DrU0Jiagg/s1600/P1290166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FREcZzzQRc0/VedQZlvahOI/AAAAAAAALg0/f5DrU0Jiagg/s320/P1290166.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Frozen ponds</td></tr>
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The tide was going out and the wading birds - gulls, oystercatchers, sheathbills, and plovers were our constant companions, even if they were tricky to photograph!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NXHPmR42Pfk/VedQaxyskLI/AAAAAAAALg8/FJWwGQEHzgs/s1600/P1290179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NXHPmR42Pfk/VedQaxyskLI/AAAAAAAALg8/FJWwGQEHzgs/s320/P1290179.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 miles back to the Nest</td></tr>
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Some of the streams we crossed were frozen and the ice had created some amazing sculptures around the grass and waterfalls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KUVUgY0WpjE/VedQe932TzI/AAAAAAAALhQ/NhooTrbk6_4/s1600/P1290180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KUVUgY0WpjE/VedQe932TzI/AAAAAAAALhQ/NhooTrbk6_4/s400/P1290180.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen blade of grass</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LvYSeRb2HIU/VedQfAhN03I/AAAAAAAALhU/SzoPSX8qVlM/s1600/P1290182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LvYSeRb2HIU/VedQfAhN03I/AAAAAAAALhU/SzoPSX8qVlM/s640/P1290182.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low tide on the runway!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CjY_8HjwYC8/VedQh20hbhI/AAAAAAAALhk/2JwEbqQ5tsE/s1600/P1290186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CjY_8HjwYC8/VedQh20hbhI/AAAAAAAALhk/2JwEbqQ5tsE/s320/P1290186.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking east along the semi-circular beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ei2kWf5DvVo/VedQjnTJL6I/AAAAAAAALhw/ZyQUYKa-7Ao/s1600/P1290188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ei2kWf5DvVo/VedQjnTJL6I/AAAAAAAALhw/ZyQUYKa-7Ao/s320/P1290188.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cemetery amongst the gorse bushes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SSfmZzHZTfY/VedQjNIbFHI/AAAAAAAALhs/HCKHgLz-BdY/s1600/P1290191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SSfmZzHZTfY/VedQjNIbFHI/AAAAAAAALhs/HCKHgLz-BdY/s320/P1290191.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset, with Upland Geese</td></tr>
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Dinner that evening was a delicious risotto, washed down with a couple of cartons of good Chilean red wine. (Cartons were lighter than bottles, and we were only allowed 10kgs on the plane!). No TV, no Internet, no radio. Peace and quiet surrounded us. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UFY5v1mhOzQ/VedQmrnzx4I/AAAAAAAALiE/-XhXIzHcHUE/s1600/P1290197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UFY5v1mhOzQ/VedQmrnzx4I/AAAAAAAALiE/-XhXIzHcHUE/s320/P1290197.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Settlement houses.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fhSRLHBlKR0/VedQnRe2MkI/AAAAAAAALiM/mk4ywRsaXOY/s1600/P1290200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fhSRLHBlKR0/VedQnRe2MkI/AAAAAAAALiM/mk4ywRsaXOY/s320/P1290200.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old school looks out to sea.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hZSawGZd5tI/VedQrh5oj6I/AAAAAAAALik/vcVIyOrReiw/s1600/P1290210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hZSawGZd5tI/VedQrh5oj6I/AAAAAAAALik/vcVIyOrReiw/s320/P1290210.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A friendly Jack Russell terrier.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qgrFfCeTRDg/VedQuGziB4I/AAAAAAAALi0/Zi7kTCf5jpY/s1600/P1290212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qgrFfCeTRDg/VedQuGziB4I/AAAAAAAALi0/Zi7kTCf5jpY/s320/P1290212.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jetty</td></tr>
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After the relaxing weekend, the same plane returned to take us back to Stanley. It was full this time, so we squeezed in at the back and snatched glimpses of the snow-covered hills below us.,<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aFcPK8WfbU8/VedQuoIeeaI/AAAAAAAALi4/3DJueFyuESw/s1600/P1290223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aFcPK8WfbU8/VedQuoIeeaI/AAAAAAAALi4/3DJueFyuESw/s320/P1290223.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Estancia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WEs2V7Zx0Q8/VedQwbbQtSI/AAAAAAAALjM/x0Un06Luh5A/s1600/P1290229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WEs2V7Zx0Q8/VedQwbbQtSI/AAAAAAAALjM/x0Un06Luh5A/s320/P1290229.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two Sisters</td></tr>
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<br />
Now, in September, it is light from 7.30am to 6.30pm and getting lighter every day. Hardy flowers are starting to appear in gardens, and reports are coming in of Elephant Seals wallowing ashore to breed on Sea Lion Island - a sure sign that Spring is here!<br />
<br />
With any luck, we should be on Sea Lion in November, enjoying the wildlife and hospitality. If it is as good as that on Pebble, we are in for a treat!<br />
<br />
Peter <br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-2646177640612238492015-07-08T08:53:00.000-07:002015-07-08T08:53:09.507-07:00In the grip of WinterAn occasional glimpse at life in the Falklands........<br />
<br />
I'm not sure what happened to Autumn, since my last posting was about summer. Now we are in the middle of winter! Apologies for the lack of news from the South Atlantic!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HdV3S4PcOC8/VZ0w2zd7I6I/AAAAAAAALZo/cK030smwxIU/s1600/P1280373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HdV3S4PcOC8/VZ0w2zd7I6I/AAAAAAAALZo/cK030smwxIU/s320/P1280373.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christchurch Cathedral</td></tr>
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Winters in the Falklands are not usually severe. In fact, on still days, they can be very pleasant. And we don't normally get much snow. But this year, we've had about 3 flurries in the last month, and it has been cold enough to turn to ice, which makes driving difficult both in the hilly town of Stanley and outside of town, in "Camp", where all the surfaces are gravel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1ZINaoBnE0/VZ0w3Dy30QI/AAAAAAAALZs/rrW-3O6gEq8/s1600/P1280694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1ZINaoBnE0/VZ0w3Dy30QI/AAAAAAAALZs/rrW-3O6gEq8/s320/P1280694.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dean Street</td></tr>
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Only a few key routes in Stanley are gritted/salted, so most of the hills are off-limits to drivers, and the kids can enjoy sledging.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-98mKARmS4ZU/VZ0w3KdIG3I/AAAAAAAALZ0/tPGjhHoMX4o/s1600/P1280842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-98mKARmS4ZU/VZ0w3KdIG3I/AAAAAAAALZ0/tPGjhHoMX4o/s320/P1280842.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land Rover graveyard</td></tr>
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However, today, it was announced that the road out of town to the airport was closed to all traffic due to ice. Even the gritter truck had had difficulties on the surface. I'm not sure what the oil workers who arrived today to do their 2 weeks on an exploration rig feel about being stuck in an airport after an 18 hour flight, but no doubt the topic of the road will come up, again, at local political meetings....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f1KOraN1RyI/VZ0w5DpzZOI/AAAAAAAALaA/Nx4hNhbL20A/s1600/P1280848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f1KOraN1RyI/VZ0w5DpzZOI/AAAAAAAALaA/Nx4hNhbL20A/s320/P1280848.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley cemetery</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, my work as a driving instructor takes a back seat, and I have time to capture some snowy scenes in Stanley.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MeEpSgnSh3c/VZ0w7SgLkDI/AAAAAAAALaM/dByCvbZhVfw/s1600/P1280920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MeEpSgnSh3c/VZ0w7SgLkDI/AAAAAAAALaM/dByCvbZhVfw/s320/P1280920.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chile win Copa America!</td></tr>
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On the sporting front, the last week has been a memorable one. The Falklands sent a team to Jersey to participate in the Island Games, against the likes of Greenland, Faroe Islands, Isle of Wight, Orkney and so on. They did themselves proud, beating Gotland (Norway) in the football, and winning silver medals in the shooting and archery. I think the golfers suffered in the heat, though!<br />
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We had a memorable night in a local pub watching Chile beat Argentina in the Copa America. A very popular result in the community, which has a thriving Chilean minority. A team of ice hockey players also won a competition in Chile, beating an Argentinian team in the final. Yet, we have no ice rink in Stanley! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Asv8XUiCC0/VZ0w7fcbNfI/AAAAAAAALaI/plsjoSUS9_0/s1600/P1280922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Asv8XUiCC0/VZ0w7fcbNfI/AAAAAAAALaI/plsjoSUS9_0/s320/P1280922.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen harbour</td></tr>
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Having said we have no ice rink, two nights ago, the temperature fell to -7C. There was also no wind or sea swell. Overnight, the harbour froze, and all the ice was deposited on the shore as the tide receded. Locals say it is about 20 years since this happened!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FfgGS8tkroA/VZ0xkAh6aXI/AAAAAAAALaY/HUfI1uIjTo0/s1600/P1280708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FfgGS8tkroA/VZ0xkAh6aXI/AAAAAAAALaY/HUfI1uIjTo0/s320/P1280708.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing for Midwinter Swim</td></tr>
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Two weeks ago, the annual Midwinter Swim took place. Many of the participants drive up from the military base about 35 miles away, and compete with each other to see who can stay in the sea longest!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hNo206p-KPo/VZ0xlVQs6AI/AAAAAAAALag/1BXDELlTSjY/s1600/P1280739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hNo206p-KPo/VZ0xlVQs6AI/AAAAAAAALag/1BXDELlTSjY/s320/P1280739.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Organiser (clothed) with Midwinter swimmers...</td></tr>
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Some people wear fancy dress, but quickly find out that a furry penguin costume loses it appeal when soaking wet! Brrrr.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DIqaXcgVYF4/VZ0xlUGjcwI/AAAAAAAALak/odf0al-Cj24/s1600/P1280762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DIqaXcgVYF4/VZ0xlUGjcwI/AAAAAAAALak/odf0al-Cj24/s320/P1280762.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old cycling top gets an outing</td></tr>
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For the fourth year, I joined in the fun, but this year I tried wearing a pair of neoprene socks. They do make a difference. I managed to stay in the water for about 90 seconds!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O0PgE2gcHQ8/VZ0xmSAB8NI/AAAAAAAALaw/UBUrsPTCzeA/s1600/P1280794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O0PgE2gcHQ8/VZ0xmSAB8NI/AAAAAAAALaw/UBUrsPTCzeA/s320/P1280794.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Air-sea Rescue on hand throughout.</td></tr>
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Also in the water, was a member of the crew of the Air-sea Rescue helicopter. He was winched down into the sea, waded ashore, started the Swim, then waded out and was winched aboard the helicopter again.<br />
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However, he was wearing a dry suit, so he doesn't claim the record of the longest submersion.<br />
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Wherever you are, I hope you are coping with the weather!<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-72468397179484354142015-03-27T14:01:00.000-07:002015-03-27T14:01:12.506-07:00End of Summer <br />
Welcome to this occasional look at life in the Falkland Islands, from the point of view of someone who moved here 3 years ago from the UK.......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tktk5N4whjM/VRWybtvHwnI/AAAAAAAALPc/vj_-TC-jlv8/s1600/P1010447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tktk5N4whjM/VRWybtvHwnI/AAAAAAAALPc/vj_-TC-jlv8/s1600/P1010447.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huge luxury yachts visit Stanley</td></tr>
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Summer (December to February) in the Falklands sees a lot of activity. Not only do about 500,000 sheep need to be shorn, but about 50,000 cruise ship passengers arrive into Stanley Harbour, Their ships are either shuttling round Antarctica or plying between Buenos Aires and Valparaiso, via Cape Horn. . Many head off by 4x4 to be driven across country to see the penguins. I lead walking tours in and around Stanley - a very pleasant job when the weather is good, which it mostly was this year.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rBFXnGOio7A/VRWzMdCMx7I/AAAAAAAALQM/1WxEm8EmLWg/s1600/P1010429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rBFXnGOio7A/VRWzMdCMx7I/AAAAAAAALQM/1WxEm8EmLWg/s1600/P1010429.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Small cruise ship doing handbrake turn through the Narrows</td></tr>
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We had one day of heavy rain, and at the halfway point of the walk, we take a minibus for 10 minutes to another location. However, on that day, everyone was so wet we just headed straight for the penguin colony to at least see some of the Falklands' famous wildlife.<br />
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But, usually, most people are happy to walk for 3 hours and soak up the Falklands experience for the day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6BxOqURHrlQ/VRWya03_dRI/AAAAAAAALPU/HsPMa4_PCLg/s1600/P1010435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6BxOqURHrlQ/VRWya03_dRI/AAAAAAAALPU/HsPMa4_PCLg/s1600/P1010435.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jiggers in the harbour</td></tr>
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And in February, about 100 squid fishing ships (jiggers) from the Far East, call in to collect their licences to fish in Falklands' waters. Sadly, some crew decide this makes a great opportunity to jump ship, and 9 men tried to swim ashore this year. Tragically, only 7 made it. They were repatriated to Vietnam. The day after this photo (above) was taken, a fierce storm blew through the harbour and two ships had to be towed off the shore. So, even the harbour can be very dangerous.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k3r9yGpIgfY/VRWyczs2cdI/AAAAAAAALPs/yPodgyTjQT8/s1600/P1010497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k3r9yGpIgfY/VRWyczs2cdI/AAAAAAAALPs/yPodgyTjQT8/s1600/P1010497.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memorial to scientists who died in Antarctica.</td></tr>
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Stanley has been the final port of call for ships heading South for over 100 years. After the exploits of Captain Scott, Ernest Shackleton and others, the scientific research and exploration continued, leading to momentous discoveries such as the hole in the ozone layer, and climate change evidence stretching back millennia.<br />
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Recently, a party of (mainly) retired scientists from the British Antarctic Survey raised a memorial to 28 of their colleagues who left Stanley for Antarctica, and never returned. The most recent to lose their life was Kirsty Brown, who was killed by a leopard seal in 2003. It is a stunning, and moving, memorial, and it is the southern part of an installation - the northern part being at the Scott Polar Research Institute in Cambridge.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IhLXvzlB4_4/VRWygZDDxPI/AAAAAAAALP0/7CpLYv7iDgo/s1600/P1010507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IhLXvzlB4_4/VRWygZDDxPI/AAAAAAAALP0/7CpLYv7iDgo/s1600/P1010507.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winner and 2nd place in the pot plant category. Well done (and thanks to Edmonde).</td></tr>
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March saw the last of the cruise ships come and go. The next to arrive will be in November. Life settles down to less esoteric pursuits, such as growing vegetables, and cultivating plants. My wife won a prize for a spider plant in the Horticultural Show! The vegetable entries were superb, and our crop of tomatoes stood little chance against competition from gardens which have been regularly fertilised by horse manure for decades! (Many thanks to our ex-neighbours for leaving us their plants when they left at Christmas!)<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TXZFY5NtZdo/VRWzNRnB7TI/AAAAAAAALQU/Quu3iZi7Ias/s1600/P1010521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TXZFY5NtZdo/VRWzNRnB7TI/AAAAAAAALQU/Quu3iZi7Ias/s1600/P1010521.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long straight of Ross Road</td></tr>
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Last week. saw the very competitive and arduous Stanley Marathon - the most southerly in the world. Competitive, as two runners smashed the course record by about 7 minutes. For a change, the weather was not too windy or cold, merely damp. But the course is a hilly one and the wind did pick up towards the end, just as some runners were turning into it for the final section.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6cEhr1nW6jM/VRWygnJeRLI/AAAAAAAALP4/EKG2Bp3KjIg/s1600/P1010522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6cEhr1nW6jM/VRWygnJeRLI/AAAAAAAALP4/EKG2Bp3KjIg/s1600/P1010522.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My shoes, powered by a Zimbabwean de-miner, running up a steep hill</td></tr>
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It's also very competitive as many runners enter as teams, each of the 4 runners running about 10 kilometres (6 miles). A group of Zimbabweans, over here to clear some minefields made a request for some running shoes on the eve of the race, and I was happy to hand my size sevens to the chap in the photo above, just prior to the start.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Mt4eo-KdQg/VRWyg6uCIPI/AAAAAAAALQA/Y9z5dmhe80o/s1600/P1010540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Mt4eo-KdQg/VRWyg6uCIPI/AAAAAAAALQA/Y9z5dmhe80o/s1600/P1010540.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Drew about to take 7 minutes off the course record</td></tr>
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The military also enter many runners - the runner-up was in the RAF - and teams of Gurkhas were encouraging each other throughout the course. None could get near local primary school-teacher, Tim Drew, who had an amazing run.<br />
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There were also about 17 Argentine runners, some of whom fly over every year in an attempt to steal the glory and the headlines in Buenos Aires. However, I doubt the local conditions can be found in Argentina to allow them to train for this event.<br />
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As there is only one flight per week, we've had the unusual sight of these runners jogging around Stanley, killing time till their flight tomorrow, back to the South American mainland.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U5llvWzVQo8/VRW_UtaBeOI/AAAAAAAALQk/w2LBhbIajmE/s1600/P1260785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U5llvWzVQo8/VRW_UtaBeOI/AAAAAAAALQk/w2LBhbIajmE/s1600/P1260785.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaucho...</td></tr>
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I'm on that flight, too, as I am hoping to meet up with my wife who has just sailed across the Atlantic on a Royal Mail Ship to St Helena and Cape Town! Anything to try and experience the golden years of the British Empire!<br />
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Hopefully, I can report on how she got on next time. We are hoping to explore the Chilean Lake District. We don't see much of Chile on the BBC News, but in the last month, I've watched the reports of huge floods in the Atacama desert, forest fires around Valparaiso, and an erupting volcano in Pucon, where we will be staying.....!!<br />
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Never a dull moment! And, if you are interested in seeing more of life in the Falklands, there's a new series starting tonight of the BBC2 "Island Parish" ! I'm not sure if it will be available online or broadcast in other countries, but worth looking out for, I hear.<br />
<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006t6m6/episodes/guide" target="_blank">http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006t6m6/episodes/guide</a><br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-75886448246805438282015-02-14T11:17:00.000-08:002015-02-14T11:17:12.824-08:00The Iron Lady....in Bronze![An occasional insight into life as an expat in Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands.]<br />
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Where did January go? :-)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gi3CHgIOMPU/VN4BneHNO5I/AAAAAAAALMc/mKPGXvvjjLs/s1600/P1260089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gi3CHgIOMPU/VN4BneHNO5I/AAAAAAAALMc/mKPGXvvjjLs/s1600/P1260089.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rare tree, and a luxury yacht in the harbour.</td></tr>
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In Stanley, we had about 20 cruise ships call in on their way to or from Antarctica. Actually, some of the bigger ships simply sail back and forth around Cape Horn, between Buenos Aires and Valparaiso.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_xLdkwWjK1g/TnDOBlyQm1I/AAAAAAAACb0/Ln4Cd0WAHx0/s1600/P1070260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_xLdkwWjK1g/TnDOBlyQm1I/AAAAAAAACb0/Ln4Cd0WAHx0/s1600/P1070260.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Antarctica, not the Falklands!</td></tr>
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As a tour guide, I take groups of tourists around Stanley and/or to the local penguin colonies, explaining the sights that we see on the way. A new sight in Stanley is the bust of Baroness Thatcher, unveiled by her son, Mark, on January 10th - Thatcher Day in the Falklands. Funnily enough, I had 4 Argentinians on a tour last week, and all were very scathing of their governments' (past and present) attitude to the Falklands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UmJfmFaSfs0/VN4BmiJtUbI/AAAAAAAALMQ/nHbJDsAI2RY/s1600/P1260097-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UmJfmFaSfs0/VN4BmiJtUbI/AAAAAAAALMQ/nHbJDsAI2RY/s1600/P1260097-001.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mrs Thatcher, in bronze.</td></tr>
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The sculpture is actually very lifelike (although I can't say I ever met Mrs T.). It is the work of a very talented sculptor and taxidermist, Steve Massam, who lives in Stanley. He normally stuffs penguins and albatrosses for the local museum, so to turn his hand to such a sensitive subject was quite an accomplishment.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QzsNGl6kNIM/VN4BpO0YGII/AAAAAAAALMo/RUh5fHKvfig/s1600/P1260125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QzsNGl6kNIM/VN4BpO0YGII/AAAAAAAALMo/RUh5fHKvfig/s1600/P1260125.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer visitors</td></tr>
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Summer has also seen the return of our equine friends, Snow Ghost and Major, who have been wolfing down our grass. The neigh........bouring plot (geddit?) also had a couple of horses in it and the horses were soon getting to know each other, and comparing the quality of the food.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-toJuhMgL22A/VN4BrLBFkHI/AAAAAAAALMw/QxzsrfzR2DM/s1600/P1260129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-toJuhMgL22A/VN4BrLBFkHI/AAAAAAAALMw/QxzsrfzR2DM/s1600/P1260129.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piling from a semi-floating barge.</td></tr>
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In between cruise ships, work is going on to repair the public jetty in the centre of town. This is where the tenders from cruise ships unload their precious cargo of passengers. Sadly, the timbers are feeling the ravages of time, and new piles are being rammed into the sea-bed on the occasional "quiet" days.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tWTsNubBwig/VN4Brz_QyZI/AAAAAAAALM4/MrbWFrX1HJ8/s1600/P1260157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tWTsNubBwig/VN4Brz_QyZI/AAAAAAAALM4/MrbWFrX1HJ8/s1600/P1260157.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lone penguin annoyed by walker...</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, down at the beach, a lonely King Penguin mooched around while he got his bearings, before rejoining his friends along the coast.<br />
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The relatively good weather also saw a good turn-out of Nordic Walkers on the beach. Although only a kilometre long, the beach usually throws up some surprises like the penguin, or dolphins, so walking there is wonderful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-foKEKnY-0WQ/VN4BvatZRYI/AAAAAAAALNQ/KJkATWCLwJY/s1600/P1260257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-foKEKnY-0WQ/VN4BvatZRYI/AAAAAAAALNQ/KJkATWCLwJY/s1600/P1260257.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walkers not that far from Walkers Creek....</td></tr>
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Once a month, a group of walkers venture further afield to explore other parts of the Falklands. This month, we drove about 60 miles south-west to Goose Green, where we parked the small convoy, and set off into a strong breeze.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vD2t2Xmsk08/VN4BwpruhTI/AAAAAAAALNY/Dzz1BbcX5HQ/s1600/P1260261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vD2t2Xmsk08/VN4BwpruhTI/AAAAAAAALNY/Dzz1BbcX5HQ/s1600/P1260261.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodie Creek Bridge, most southerly suspension bridge in the world</td></tr>
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We walked round the coast for about 7 miles, passing the landmark of Bodie Creek Bridge. The bridge is unsafe now, but when it was built in the 1930's it saved a 40-mile detour when bringing sheep in to Goose Green for shearing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k-yigagXFdM/VN4BzkO2WDI/AAAAAAAALNo/bveDr4UZ7Qk/s1600/P1260268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k-yigagXFdM/VN4BzkO2WDI/AAAAAAAALNo/bveDr4UZ7Qk/s1600/P1260268.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Random debris from 1982 war</td></tr>
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It was a pleasant Sunday afternoon, and meant we could meet new arrivals to the islands and pass on some accumulated knowledge, for example, where to buy bananas when there's none in the supermarkets!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YZ_6Z7jbk28/VN45LDc6VFI/AAAAAAAALN4/D5nIXr4eANA/s1600/P1260178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YZ_6Z7jbk28/VN45LDc6VFI/AAAAAAAALN4/D5nIXr4eANA/s1600/P1260178.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snoozebox - new accommodation in Stanley</td></tr>
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Back in Stanley, some new additions to the skyline have appeared. My first thought about the above building was that it might be a new prison, but on closer inspection, it seems to be a no-frills hotel for transient oil workers. "Snoozebox" is the brand name and apparently they are often used at big events like Formula 1 races.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-62Qsp1ldgrU/VN4BndNorJI/AAAAAAAALMY/q9nW6Y0ZHhY/s1600/P1260092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-62Qsp1ldgrU/VN4BndNorJI/AAAAAAAALMY/q9nW6Y0ZHhY/s1600/P1260092.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley sunset</td></tr>
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But if the oil workers are lucky, they might enjoy one of the frequent stunning sunsets we experience in Stanley<br />
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Peter<br />
<br />peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6425154115888876778.post-42402155381683487472014-12-25T08:01:00.000-08:002014-12-25T08:01:20.339-08:00Santa in Stanley[An occasional look at life in the Falkland Islands, which are about the same distance from the Equator as London is........]<div>
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Christmas Day. Dawn is around 4.30. Up early to Skype the rellies.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRnzbJEcc7w/VJsc2TWYIrI/AAAAAAAALKg/u1msBn5CMOw/s1600/P1250564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRnzbJEcc7w/VJsc2TWYIrI/AAAAAAAALKg/u1msBn5CMOw/s1600/P1250564.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gypsy Cove, with penguins</td></tr>
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Put the reindeer in the oven and head to Surf Bay, to have a dip in the South Atlantic with some friends....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xoPMQdUyEnY/VJwoiLa9uVI/AAAAAAAALLY/POLB1PxqyAE/s1600/P1250725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xoPMQdUyEnY/VJwoiLa9uVI/AAAAAAAALLY/POLB1PxqyAE/s1600/P1250725.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Come on in, the water's lovely!"</td></tr>
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Quite a mild day today, around 15C, and a gentle breeze. Two years ago it was snowing on Christmas Day!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hJxOjFoh1do/VJwoi4lk3cI/AAAAAAAALLg/-RcaJ7ySU9U/s1600/P1250731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hJxOjFoh1do/VJwoi4lk3cI/AAAAAAAALLg/-RcaJ7ySU9U/s1600/P1250731.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luckily, the crowds stay away today</td></tr>
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A few days ago, saw a couple of medium-sized cruise ships berth at FIPASS (Falklands Interim Port and Storage System). Interim, in that it was designed to last 5 years, but has been there 25!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cYtYjxCfFX8/VJsc3fX0eMI/AAAAAAAALKo/l_LpEqqXVD8/s1600/P1250671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cYtYjxCfFX8/VJsc3fX0eMI/AAAAAAAALKo/l_LpEqqXVD8/s1600/P1250671.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Boreal and Fram at FIPASS</td></tr>
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The Fram had about 200 passengers and Le Boreal about 500. I was guiding a group from the Fram around the coast to Gypsy Cove to see penguins, shipwrecks, Steamer ducks, Upland Geese, Blackish Oystercatchers and so on. Lots of chicks, goslings and ducklings to be seen, and several endemic Falkland flowers as well<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jVi-XiC1CPo/VJsc3ql6GXI/AAAAAAAALKs/Cu-II2rYzBE/s1600/P1250678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jVi-XiC1CPo/VJsc3ql6GXI/AAAAAAAALKs/Cu-II2rYzBE/s1600/P1250678.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fram squeezing through the Narrows</td></tr>
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I also had the great pleasure of bumping into a guide, Rob Caskie, from Le Boreal, whom we had last seen at Rorke's Drift in South Africa 8 years ago! We later had a chat over a coffee. He, too, is keeping a blog of his adventures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVG49p5FpWY/VJwvIBpUOwI/AAAAAAAALLs/yPXgMj5siwQ/s1600/P1250689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVG49p5FpWY/VJwvIBpUOwI/AAAAAAAALLs/yPXgMj5siwQ/s1600/P1250689.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Boreal</td></tr>
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Rob's a historian and superb story-teller, and is now telling the tales of Antarctic explorers to cruise passengers heading there. Back in South Africa, his stories of the Anglo-Zulu wars are captivating. He tours the UK in May, if you want to hear him. >>>><br />
<a href="http://www.robcaskie.com/blog/post/Falklands-battle-santa/" target="_blank">http://www.robcaskie.com/blog/post/Falklands-battle-santa/</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mL0lUhU8rv8/VJsc8IbkBpI/AAAAAAAALLI/Hec0JcHH3YQ/s1600/P1250694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mL0lUhU8rv8/VJsc8IbkBpI/AAAAAAAALLI/Hec0JcHH3YQ/s1600/P1250694.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No job for reindeer...</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, back in Stanley, an urgent request was received from a couple of German cruise ships in the harbour. They had failed to collect the promised Christmas trees from a neighbouring country, and it wouldn't be Christmas for the mainly German passengers without one. Could the Falklands help??<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qO_0tGgWjys/VJsc7Y_ZmJI/AAAAAAAALLA/CLmoe_IMDxU/s1600/P1250698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qO_0tGgWjys/VJsc7Y_ZmJI/AAAAAAAALLA/CLmoe_IMDxU/s1600/P1250698.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santa delivers!</td></tr>
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Despite the almost-total lack of trees on the islands, a local market garden came up with the trees and made a special delivery them by zodiac!</div>
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Hope you have a Peaceful Christmas and a Happy New Year.</div>
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Peter</div>
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peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11303915651549066703noreply@blogger.com3