The Prince and the Penguins......

The road out of Stanley.....

Sapper Hill.  Road closed due to high winds!

Berthas Beach (named after one of the hundreds of wrecks around these shores) is a long, pristine crescent of white sand about 40 miles south-west of Stanley, and about 5 miles from Mount Pleasant Airport.

Mt Tumbledown from Sapper Hill

The road out of Stanley climbs around Sapper Hill, then follows the line of hills that became household names 30 years ago – Tumbledown, Harriet, Challenger. The road surface is mainly gravel, with the occasional tarmac. The speed limit is 40 mph, and it is observed, as there is a deep ditch either side of the road, and the wind can whistle down here making high-sided 4x4s difficult to control.

I'd rented a Mitsubishi Shogun, partly for some heavy shopping (milk, and beer supplies for the 6 Nations), but also to explore some of the quiet roads on the Falklands. (Diesel is 75p per litre, by the way!). On Sunday, we drove past the garrison at Mount Pleasant, and then drove, or wobbled, for about 5 miles along a rough track to a parking area near the beach.

Track to Berthas Beach

We were greeted by the MOD Environmental Protection Officer, as this was an area under the stewardship of the military conservation group. He was organising the walk to celebrate World Wetlands Day, and had enlisted the help of a couple of specialists from Falklands Conservation.

http://www.falklandsconservation.com/  (excellent site -  see how far penguins swim for food!)

Sea Cabbage - yum!

With the experts giving us a running commentary of flora and fauna of the Falklands, we set off for a 2-mile ramble along the white sand beach to the Gentoo Penguin colony. Along the way some dolphins were spotted and some crazy Army guys stripped off and tried to swim out to them. 

Hardy squaddie looking for dolphins

As Wellington may have said, "I don't know what effect these men have on the enemy, but, by God, they frighten me!"......

Dolphin fin, honest

Continuing the walk, we were surprised at the number of shoreline birds, especially 2-banded plovers and Oystercatchers.....

Magellanic Oystercatchers

Squaddies drying off after dip.  Windchill is about 5C.

Gentoo penguins

Eventually, we arrived at the penguins dotted about the beach. Most were young birds, about 4 months old, who were waiting for their parents to return with food. At some point, the parents decide that the chicks are big enough and have the right plumage to make their own way in the sea, and stop feeding them. It was almost that time when the first young ventured into the ocean!

Waiting for parents to arrive with food

"When's dinner?"

"You can see my nest from up here!"

"Which way to the beach?"

We watched groups confidently strolling down from the dunes, and if we sat quietly, they would walk right up to, and past, us.

Stay still and the humans will not run away!

Where are they?

Rehearsing for "Nuns on Ice"!

We also observed the rookery, about 400 yards inland. The Gentoo are resident here all year round, which means that predatory skuas are always on the lookout for any unprotected chick. 

Rookery with skuas circling....

Sit still and the chicks approach you

In the distance was the Mount Pleasant Complex with garrison, airfield, shops, cinema, bowling alley....

For those of you familiar with “March of the Penguins”, you'll know that Emporor penguins walk 70 miles inland to lay their eggs. Although harsh, it means the chicks are away from predators.

Gentoo penguins have a year-round supply of food and a fairly benign climate (compared to Antarctica), but they do have to contend with predators like Skuas, and Sea Lions, as well as introduced cats and rats on some islands.

"I want my best feathers.."

Coming closer

No zoom used!

Back on the beach, the wind was picking up.....

Into the wind.....

Never work with animals or children....

On the return journey we were treated by more dolphin sightings, close in to the shore, which highlighted my deficiencies as a photographer. Or maybe it was the camera that was slow? Anyway, I think I'll stick to co-operative penguins.....I had lots of waves and dark shadows in the water, but one of our group had a lovely photo of a dolphin leaping out of the water. Oh well..

Royal watchers dream come true.....The Prince is on the right.

As if all that wasn't enough, we had just finished our al fresco picnic at the car park (using the cars as shelter against the wind), when a shiny Land Rover parked beside us, and a certain Flt Lt Wales got out and headed off to see the penguins! Cue one Mum to grab her kids out of the car and pursue the group through the sand dunes. She eventually caught up with them and had an encounter that you don't normally get in Nature Reserves! Never mind the penguins or dolphins... A Prince!!

Weather update - Warmest and driest January on record.  But wind affects the temperature.  Sunshine and hail squalls are not uncommon.  Last week, a large cruise ship was unable to anchor because of teh wind, even in sheltered waters,and sailed on with her 1200 passengers.

More weather and webcams here - http://www.cwfi.co.fk/

To come.....Last night, we walked through 8 foot high tussock grass - the natural vegetation which is now only found on islands which have no sheep - being careful not to upset the massive sealions dozing there.  We also spotted 4 different kinds of penguins. Can anyone name them?

But the trip was to mainly experience a unique natural spectacle.  More next week.

Peter

One Day I walked out from Stanley....

"One Day I walked out from Stanley".  No, not an entry in David Livingstone's diaries of his travel in darkest Africa. Just a description of a very pleasant day in the Falklands.

Upland geese with Hanseatic in harbour

(Chores done...) The sun was shining but there was a cool breeze as I set off for the day. From my house on the hill, I could see an expedition ship, Hanseatic, in the harbour. This had about 200 passengers, so the town wouldn't be swamped by visitors. In fact, I was to pass only one other person during the day.
Heading downhill to the shore, I passed the Narrows Bar, opposite the Narrows entrance to Stanley Harbour. This tight entrance restricts the bigger cruise ships to the outer bay.

Kelp goslings

From here, I could see the picturesque wreck, Lady Elizabeth, at the end of the harbour. There are many wrecks around Stanley and the Islands, but this one is close to shore and virtually a tourist attraction.

Lady Elizabeth

Using my Nordic Walking poles on the foreshore, I passed the potato fields, just about ready for harvesting, and then arrived at the massive floating docks and warehouse complex that was left behind after the conflict, and subsequent reconstruction, 30 years ago.

Bridge to floating dock.  (One for Duncan?)

Continuing past the oil storage tanks, the path was now surrounded by diddle-dee plants, unique to the Falklands with their bright red berries beginning to appear.  They make great jam.

Diddle-dee berries

Road Maintenance

I crossed a creek by way of a bridge built by Royal Engineers, and noted the warnings not to touch anything on the shore, as mines had been washed up here in the past. A few minutes later, I was walking past Lady Elizabeth and had a view back to Stanley, and mountains beyond.

I also had some waders and shoreline birds such as Oystercatchers for company, and unlike most birds, they didn't fly away, as they have little fear of Man, having only come across us relatively recently in the evolutionary cycle. I'd always wanted to photograph an Oystercatcher, but the British ones wouldn't let me within 100 yards....

Magellanic Oystercatcher

I then followed the coastline for a couple of miles, skirting the beautiful Yorke Bay and frustrated that the pristine, sandy beaches were out of bounds, except to penguins.

Only penguins go here

Sole penguin, centre.

The end is in sight

Eventually, my destination came in sight. A retired lighthouse at the most easterly point of the Falklands.

Cape Pembroke Lighthouse

Sign on the door - “To gain entry, please collect key from Museum”. Bother! Never mind, the views from ground level were pretty good. Looking north, I could make out Volunteer Point, where most of the King Penguins are. Beyond that, was Ascension Island and the UK.
http://www.falklands-museum.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=100&Itemid=167

Merchant seaman memorial

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Atlantic_Conveyor   Southwards, was the Antarctic Peninsula, closer than South Georgia, at around 600 miles. A sobering view. Even more sobering was the memorial to seamen who had been killed when “Atlantic Conveyor” was attacked during the Falklands Conflict, 30 years ago.

Somehow, I think it more sad that merchant seamen were killed then. They didn't sign up for the military action. They were just doing their job as deckhands, cooks, navigators, etc..

Looking East. Next land is 12,000 miles away!

Eastwards, was the southern ocean. The next LAND in that direction was the west coast of Chile, 12,700 miles away!!

Turning round and heading west, I passed Stanley's tiny airport, which was bombed by Vulcan bombers in 1982 to prevent being used by invading forces. The “domestic” flights to outlying islands start and finish here, and I hope to be on one myself soon.

Stanley airport

No need for online checkin – simply listen for your name being read out on the radio the night before you fly!

Bridge built by Royal Engineers

Passing the Lady Elizabeth again, and the road graders (smoothing the gravel roads), I finally made it back to town, where I popped into the Seamen's Mission for an excellent bacon roll. Sky News was on the TV, and the reporter was saying how the Falklanders were looking forward to greeting Prince William. Oh no – more journalists!

A cracking day! 30,000 steps, 23 kms. Skuas, oystercatchers, Turkey Vultures, a Magellanic penguin, Upland Geese, Kelp Geese, and goslings, wrens (probably), and plenty of photos.

Tomorrow, rain is forecast. The gardens need it!

Peter

South Georgia's on my mind...

Where else can you see reindeer and King Penguins?

I mentioned in my last post about meeting up with a taxidermist who had created a remarkable exhibit of an albatross for the South Georgia museum. Small world.....

http://www.sgisland.gs/index.php/Main_Page

I was lucky enough to visit remote South Georgia (about 1,000 miles south-east of the Falklands) last year on a cruise. It is a remarkable place, not least for being associated with the dramatic rescue, in 1916, of Sir Ernest Shackleton and his Endurance expedition, when the ship was crushed by ice. Five years after those events, he returned to Antarctica, stopping at South Georgia to re-supply, but died suddenly of a heart attack. His ship sailed on without him, and his body was taken back to Montevideo for onward transport to the UK, but his wife sent a telegram that he should be buried in South Georgia – the place he loved.

Shackleton's grave

http://www.antarctica.ac.uk/

It is also 'home' to some scientists of the British Antarctic Survey (more details at above site), as the waters around Sth Georgia have remarkable life – both with an abundance and variety found in very few places. This sea-life supports millions of penguins, albatrosses and seals which breed on the island, and it featured on the BBC series “Frozen Planet”.

King Penguin rookery

Last summer, a newcomer (I'll call her Anita, as that's her name) to our Nordic Walking group in Bushy Park, London, appeared, and as I tried to help her feel relaxed as she picked up the technique, I asked where she had been on holiday recently.

“Oh”, she replied, “you won't have heard of it.... a tiny island called South Georgia”.

I was happy to tell her that not only had I heard of it, but, I too had just come back from it! To say she was surprised is an understatement.

It seems we were there about a week apart, despite only a handful of boats going there each year.

Anita was primarily visiting her daughter who was managing the boats on behalf of the scientists. Her daughter kept fascinating blog about her routine, which I followed with interest. How often do you get to hear what it's like to live on a isolated, inhospitable island in the South Atlantic?

http://www.racingyachtmanagement.com/blog/

I emailed Ashley a couple of times, asking how life was on the island, and exchanging news and views about “Frozen Planet” (the base there had a DVD of the series provided by the producers, and watched each episode as it was transmitted in the UK!).

To cut a long ramble short – I thought at one point I might bump into Ashley either in South Georgia or else on the Falklands, but she had to leave in January to climb, Aconcagua, at 22841 feet / 6962 m, the highest peak in South America, as you do.

But, before leaving South Georgia, she had found an old pair of snowshoes, and emailed me to ask if I was interested in having them? They might come in handy, I thought, so “yes, please”. But how would she get them to me?

No problem – they would be left with a friend, Leigh Anne, in Stanley.

It was only when I arrived here and remembered that I didn't have her surname that I realised it might be trickier that I first thought to track her down. But the other day, I was browsing in an art gallery-cum-camping store – The Pink Shop – when I glanced at some stunning paintings of penguins. And the artist's name was Leigh Anne!

So, from meeting Nordic Walkers, I have learned about life on the real Frozen Planet set; and had introductions to some talented and interesting people!  The kindness of strangers...

Happy recipient of snowshoes...

South Georgia landscapes

South Georgia residents

Oh, and Prince William has arrived here. It may be on the news......

Peter

Far, Fresh, Friendly, Familiar in parts....

Hi from Stanley -

Christ's Church Cathedral and whalebone arch

First impressions had been very positive. I am now in the throes of finding out where everything is and who does what. I was reminded of the Iceland telephone directory, which lists people by first name, as it's easier to find people that way, rather than plough through all the “Magnussons”!

You want your lawn mowed? – call Bert the grass man. Or Michelle for cakes, or Jim for unlocking Sim cards, etc.

Lonely King Penguin

 The shops stock an eclectic mix of products. Some familiar - eg, Black Sheep Ale from Yorkshire and “Arran Mustard”.

I'd had many a happy time on Arran, just off the Scottish coast in the Firth of Clyde. So, even though we were far from the UK, we could still obtain little tastes of a previous life. I did buy some mustard, and also some delicious local home-made (by Harry Ford) pickled beetroot. In the UK, you don't see international brands side-by-side on the shelf with home-made produce.

Penguin emporium

Some products are in short supply – wireless modems, apparently – resulting in me visiting several wifi hotspots in an effort to connect to the outside world. Eggs are scarce, unless you keep chickens, and one has to keep an ear to the ground to find out whose chickens are good layers. Still, it makes one an imaginative cook, if we are to avoid the “Not beetroot sandwiches again?!” cry from “the Boss”.

Sunset view from kitchen

 Other reminders of the UK come from the radio and TV, which is mostly BFBS (British Forces Broadcasting Services), an eclectic mix of the “best” bits of BBC Radios 2, 4, 5 etc. So, we might wake up to the familiar voices of John Humphreys or Nicky Campbell belittling some politician and warning us of traffic delays between junctions 8 and 10 of the M25!

But the weather forecasts cover places like Cyprus, Oman, Afghanistan and the Falklands – wherever British Forces are stationed. Makes a change from finding out that the West of Scotland is in for a hurricane, again.

Kay's B&B

 Thought some of my UK friends might like the photo of this B&B - maybe a little business for someone?

Kay's B&B's garden

 This is the garden of the B&B with dozens of 'residents'.

Flightless Steamer Duck - unique to Falklands

So, those aspects of media provide a tenuous link with the UK, although I think I'll be weaning myself off it, as I become more immersed in local activities, and less interested in congestion on the M25. There are also Falkland Islands TV and Radio, which provide for the local community. I've not yet had time to explore these avenues. And, of course, the excellent Penguin News.
http://www.penguin-news.com/

Female Flightless Steamer Ducks?

 What I have done, that I never thought I would have the chance to do, is join a Hash House Harriers session.  Falkland Island Stanley Hash House Harriers (FISH) advertised for new runners and walkers, so, as it was a beautiful sunny day, I went along to see what this entailed. I had a rough idea from speaking to expats I'd met, but was still pleasantly surprised by the friendly and informal “run/walk” around Stanley.

Star Princess and Amsterdam outside the Narrows

 It was a small, but dedicated, group of all ages who ran, jogged, walked and stumbled up and down the hills.  The Nordic Walking poles were particularly useful on the uphill sections.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hash_House_Harriers

Afterwards, we had time to socialise in the garden of the Globe Tavern, and I discovered one of the organisers was a taxidermist who'd worked for the local museum, including that on South Georgia.

"Penguin Travel"...beats swimming!

Spookily enough, I had visited that very museum about 10 months earlier, and had been struck by the stuffed albatross! How do you find a dead albatross to stuff? And doesn't it look a lot bigger when it's in a room rather than gliding over the waves of the Southern Ocean?

Anyway, here sitting next to me was the man who created that stunning sculpture. Small world, as they say..

Anyway, enough hogging of the bandwidth. I must get some exercise on those hills.  More later,

Peter

Heading south for the winter...and summer!

Packing up....and leaving on a Titan plane.....

Definitely a Blue Planet!

WE DID IT! It was stressful, anxious, fraught, and looking decidely unlikely to happen, but in the end, with a lot of help from friends.... we managed to get our bags packed 10 minutes before the taxi arrived!

With an allowance of 54kg per person, it shouldn't have been a struggle, but it is quite difficult to condense your worldly goods into a few suitcases. However, some friends popped in to say a final farewell, and found themselves taking possession of a couple of cases which were no longer deemed essential.

As we got in the taxi – actually an 8-seater people-mover - some neighbours and friends had unexpectedly gathered at the end of the street to wave us off. We felt like Royalty, but realised we would miss them a lot.

Flying south for the winter.....and summer!

RAF Brize Norton was a revelation. The antithesis of Heathrow, with its crowds, shopping malls and fancy restaurants and bars. Brize Norton had no crowds, no bars and one shop. It sold newspapers and sweets and the usual travel gadgets, but also seemed to offer a wide selection of boot polish and gaffer tape!

The only other flight that night was to Camp Bastion, Afghanistan – important to go to the correct gate!

However, the lack of crowds and stressed travellers, makes the airport feel very relaxed. Checking-in took about 3 minutes, with nary a raised eyebrow at our 10 bags with 100kgs of essentials. As almost everyone was going to the Falklands, it was fairly easy to make conversation, and we met people who were about to be our neighbours and colleagues. The friendliness was something we've noticed often in the short time we've been here.

“Passengers for Flight RR1801 to Mount Pleasant, please board.....” That's ours! After donning several fleeces and thick jackets that couldn't fit in the bags, we strolled across the tarmac to our waiting Titan Airways Boeing 767 (No, I'd never heard of them either! But they were fine.). Leaving the Oxfordshire countryside behind, we flew down the Bristol Channel, and then turned left....for 9,000 miles.

Woken about 5am with the delicious aroma of Wiltshire's finest breakfast produce, we were soon landing on the remote volcanic rock that is Ascension Island. Positioned in mid-Atlantic near the Equator, its main use is a communications link for both civil and military purposes. There are no indigenous people – everyone is brought on for a contract, and leave once that is finished. 

Busy ground crew, Ascension Island


Wandering across the airfield to the al fresco transit compound, we enjoyed a coffee, and took off some of the layers of clothes we no longer needed in the balmy 25C warmth of early morning. The TV in the lounge was showing BBC Breakfast live, with Bill and Sian droning on about delays on the M25, and possible snow in Scotland.

Already, we felt as if we were in a parallel universe. Will we wake up soon?

Ascension Island Airport

Rejoining the re-fuelled plane, we headed south again. Another 9 hours over the seemingly-infinite Atlantic Ocean. Luckily, I was reading a very interesting book by Simon Winchester about the waters below us - “Atlantic: a vast ocean of a million stories”. Best of all, it was on my treasured new Kindle, and it weighed practically nothing! Thanks to Kay and all the wonderful walkers who generously gave me this wonderful present!

Eventually, a tiny speck of land appeared on the flight map on the seatback screen. Falkland Islands! Sandy beaches, rolling hills, coves, and what looked to me like lochs, all came into view, as we approached Mount Pleasant airfield.

The tiny airport is surrounded by the military garrison and is about 35 miles from Stanley, the capital. Met by a welcoming Falklander, we were soon bowling along in a Land Rover (almost every car is a Landy), through the rolling landscape, which was dotted with sheep and, sadly, mines. (More later on the subject – parts of the islands are now being actively cleared).

We were dropped off at our house at the edge of town. Its situated on a ridge, and has panoramic views across Stanley's natural harbour. In the UK, our house overlooked the Shepperton to Waterloo railway line. First impressions were good!

More news and photos soon, when I find a faster, cheaper internet connection!

Peter

Leaving on a jet plane...not sure when!

Welcome at Neko Harbour

Happy New Year!   And for those of you wondering what's been happening with me recently, let's just say we've been in a bit of limbo....

The flight (to the Falklands) we were booked on was cancelled at Christmas, and others have been full.  Rather than sit on someone's lap for 18 hours, we've now been booked on another flight in about 2 weeks time.

The hiatus has allowed me to sort some more photos of a recent trip to Antarctica, so if you want to see some penguins, you've come to the right place!

Gentoo penguin with shy chick

These photos were taken around the Antarctic peninsula in March 2011.  The only human inhabitants are working on various research or military bases.  We visited a friendly Chilean base and Port Lockroy,  an ex-British base which is now preserved as a museum, and was run by 4 young female volunteers.  As well as doing some scientific research, the women ran a Post Office and gift shop, for the visitors on cruise ships.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Lockroy

"Look, I don't have any more food!"

It was certainly a remote spot to work, but the women seemed to enjoy being away from "civilisation", for a while.   However, it's not the place to be if you enjoy your home comforts or like your own space.  No running water, and, if you want to be alone,  you can walk around the island in 5-10 minutes depending on the tide!

Bi-lingual penguins!

The Chilean naval base comprised a couple of buildings, but the cheerful personnel were only too happy to allow us to wander around and see the penguins, and buy some souvenirs!

Keeping a lookout at Port Lockroy

A small British outpost in Antarctica

So, now we have a definite date for the flight, we can engage a removal firm and restart the ongoing debate about what to do with our possessions - chuck out, put in storage, or ship them out?

Never a dull moment!

Peter