Tuesday, 17 September 2013

100 Not Out! Yorkshire Day! Penguin feeding!

[Continuing the reports on the minutiae of life in the Falkland Islands, as experienced by someone who arrived about 20 months ago......Sorry the gestation period for this episode has been a bit long, but I've been unusually busy in the last month.....However, if you would like a more regular view of the Falklands through a different set of eyes, I can recommend a look at this new blog >
http://alifedownsouth.blogspot.co.uk/]
Horses on the horizon
This blog has reached the milestone of being the 100th such update of trivial travails in the town of Stanley, capital of the Falkland Islands.   A century of blog posts!  Many thanks to those who encouraged me, especially Nick O'D (my mentor in a previous employment), and all of you who spur me on by simply reading and commenting on the blog.
Local micro-brewery
Looking at the statistics, it's clear I know only a handful of readers personally.  The bulk are scattered around the globe.  The original idea was to keep friends and family in the UK and Australia informed about how my wife and I were getting on in our new home, as communications links here are expensive, slow and often inconvenient, due to time differences.
Worth supporting...
However, it is clear that people from all over have shown an interest in life here as the Top 10 list of countries by viewers, read as - (in order of activity) -

UK
USA
Russia
Germany
France
Poland
Australia
Canada
Ukraine
Isle of Man !

I know someone on the Isle of Man, but I'm not aware of knowing anyone in Ukraine or Poland, or most of those countries, so "Thank You" for taking an interest!
Local (and free) lawn  trimmers.
The weather here is slowly getting warmer, but the biggest change is the increasing amount of daylight.  My wife now leaves for, and returns from, work in daylight.  The trudge through the dark for the last 3 months is over, and it feels as if Spring is coming soon.

And with Spring will come penguins, elephant seals, albatrosses and tourists!
Penguin beach near Stanley
To brighten up the dark winter nights, my wife (born in Yorkshire - "God's own county) decided to invite friends to celebrate Yorkshire Day.  OK, we were a couple of weeks late, but by the end of August most people had returned from their trips to the northern hemisphere in search of warmth and family.
White Rose of Yorkshire bunting
After finding some Yorkshire flags on the Internet and some Yorkshire beer in the shops, we defrosted a bag of Aunt Bessie's Yorkshire Puddings and invited some friends round to sample the delicacies.....
"You can always tell a Yorkshireman...... but you can't tell 'im much!"  Friends give up time down t'pit and whippet training to attend Yorkshire Day celebrations.....
We scoured the supermarket shelves for Yorkshire produce - Black Sheep Ale from Masham; Theakston's Old Peculiar; pickled eggs from Selby;  Liquorice Cakes from Pontefract.
The hall overflows with discarded footwear.....A Falklands tradition.
Friends contributed home-made potted meat, and Parkin - famous Yorkshire delicacies......
If you want to test your knowledge of Yorkshire, there's a Yorkshire Quiz from the famous regional newspaper -
http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/features/video-and-yorkshire-day-quiz-how-well-do-you-know-god-s-own-country-1-5908350
Yorkshire exports......now empty.
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Meanwhile, there have been some equinoctial storms heralding the arrival of Spring.  One of these damaged one of the many wrecks in Stanley Harbour.   The Jhelum has rested on the shallow water for about 100 years, but suffered badly in the recent gales.
Jhelum timber points to the wreck. The Sun sculpture behind.
Jhelum this week after the storm
Jhelum last year after 100 years on the spot.
http://www.falklands-museum.com/index.php/history/maritime/wrecks-a-hulks
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The Ramblers group have been out and about in September, this time around an abandoned settlement near Fitzroy, about 20 miles south-west of Stanley.
A bridge
 It was thick fog as a convoy of cars left Stanley early one Sunday, but the blue skies soon returned.
No bridge
 We seemed to cross quite a few streams and rivers, but largely kept our feet dry, except on the occasional shallow ford.
Half a bridge
There was quite a few new faces on the walk, as the new term had brought in a batch of teachers.  (Is that the right collective noun?).  It was interesting to hear their obvious enthusiasm for their new home.
Previously the main route across East Falklands
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On the wildlife front, summer visitors are beginning to return to breed.  Unfortunately, one King penguin has been found on a local beach covered in oil.
Penguin-feeding training.  Open wide!
Falklands Conservation staff rescued her and cleaned her up.  But it may take weeks for the waterproofing to return to her feathers.  So she is being kept in a facility in the meantime, and volunteers have been trained in feeding her.  Not that difficult, actually...open wide!
The alternative to TV.
Well, that's me just about up-to-date with happenings.   My driving instruction is tailing off, as the regular, full-time instructor returns from holiday.  But another 2 students passed their test on Friday,  so that was a tense day.
................
The Government here  has agreed to commission a memorial to Mrs Thatcher, who is held in high respect here, after all she did for the Islanders in 1982.   My office window, on Thatcher Drive (!), should have a good view of the memorial when it's built.  Photo to follow....
..............

Next time - how a rat won first prize at the Craft Fair, and whether anything is worn under the kilt!

Peter


Sunday, 25 August 2013

Snow fun....

[This being an occasional look at my life in the Falkland Islands.....  The last week has seen intermittent snow showers sweeping across the islands.  The weather delayed the Airbridge flight from the UK - causing the passengers to enjoy the delights of Ascension Island for a couple of days.  One of those delayed also happens to be a reader of this blog, and I bumped into her at my neighbours' house today.  What a small world and what a delightful surprise!  Welcome to the Falklands, Emily!  Hope you enjoy it here.]
Snow Penguin
Just as I thought Spring was in the air, the wind direction changed to the South, and bought with it numerous snow showers.  In between the showers, bright sunshine shone on the carpet of icing sugar.
Whalebone Arch, Stanley
All very pretty, but it does play havoc with teaching people to drive, which I am doing at the moment.  Some roads are gritted in Stanley, but most of the roads on steep hills are not.  Hill starts can be a problem on ice!
Upland Goose
The geese have been finding it difficult to find food under the snow, but they are now daily visitors to my back garden, and are doing a great job of keeping it trim.  Although we do have to be careful where we stand when hanging out the washing!

Keeping the grass in trim, just prior to the snow...
Meanwhile, realising we hadn't seen penguins for a few months, we set off to the sand dunes in Yorke Bay, just east of Stanley, where there is a large gathering of Gentoo penguins.
Penguin watching, Yorke Bay
Gentoos stay in the Falklands all year round, and these penguins have been at this location for a couple of years.  They don't appear to be breeding, but otherwise seem a healthy population.
Gentoo penguins in the dunes.
The only drawback is the restricted access due to a minefield! However, this probably provides the penguins with some peace and quiet.
Commersons Dolphins, surfing, in Surf Bay
Later in the same day, we visited Surf Bay - a long, sandy crescent facing east, and usually sheltered from the prevailing winds.  Although sheltered, some of the huge swells that travel through the Drake Passage and around Cape Horn, make landfall here.  The breaking waves can be spectacular, and we were lucky enough to watch a pod of dolphins surfing in the huge waves.
Flock of two-banded plovers, Surf Bay
There were also flocks of plovers, searching for insects in the rotting kelp that had been thrown onto the beach by recent storms.
Stanley direction post - the Griffin.
Meanwhile, back in Stanley, the sunshine and snow continued.....no sooner had a path been salted and thawed, than the snow covered it again, then freezing to sheet ice overnight.
Plenty of parking at the West Store
Christchurch Cathedral, and International Tours and Travel office.
If you would like more information about visiting the Falkland Islands, there are a couple of  travel agents, eg, International Tours and Travel -
http://www.falklandislands.travel/

For information about tours, guides, and accommodation throughout the islands, this site is very good - The Tourism Board site -
http://www.falklandislands.com/
Dean Street - off limits to drivers.
John Street awaiting the gritting lorry.  Pink Shop on the left.
Marmont Row (formerly the Upland Goose Hotel), and a white Victory Green....
George, the local pet reindeer, scraping for fodder.
On the social front, our quiz team has been knocked out of the Falkland Islands Radio Service (FIRS) Winter Quiz.  We only narrowly lost in the semi-finals (having received a bye!), finding the round on identifying the local voices a tad tricky!  Must do more research!
Snowy kelp on the beach
Whalebone Cove
If you would like to see parts of the Falklands at any time of the day, you can look at the webcams on this site (formerly Cable & Wireless) -
http://www.sure.co.fk/
Another spectacular sunset over Stanley

And if you want to see more stunning clouds, this is the place for you >> http://cloudappreciationsociety.org/

There are also pages on Facebook where Falklands photographs are published regularly: some historic, some about sunsets, and some just about people having fun in the Falklands!

More soon,

Peter

Wednesday, 14 August 2013

Port Harriet Ramble

[Continuing the everyday ramblings of a Falkland Islands' visitor/resident.  Away from work, my wife and I really enjoy exploring the Falklands' countryside.....]
Belted Galloway - a hardy Scottish breed - observes the Ramblers.
 Last Sunday brought clear, blue skies, and a touch of frost.  Perfect winter walking weather.  About 20 Ramblers headed out of Stanley in a small convoy of cars, some of which parked at the walk's finish, while the rest carried on about another 5 miles.
 We had agreement from the landowner to walk around the Port Harriet farm, and set off downhill from our cars, across moorland, 3 miles to the coast.  For the main part, we followed a bubbling stream, which sometimes spread out to form bog, and at other points, squeezed between rocky outcrops.
Either climb or squeeze through small gap.
 At one such outcrop, we explored a small cave, which, in another continent, in another time, may have been home for a family.  But the Falkland Islands have been "adrift" in the South Atlantic for about 400 million years, and so there is no sign that Man has ever been here.

A sea inlet
Once we had negotiated this cliff, and repaired heads that had clashed with the rocks, we set off south again, across the boggy moor.  After about an hour, we reached a sea inlet, and followed the coast for another few miles.
Picking a route through the pathless moorland.
 The walking is hard-going due to the constantly uneven surface.  Every footstep has to be checked before putting your weight down.  Several times, hidden holes caused the unwary walker to stumble.  Nordic Walking poles proved very useful in regaining the vertical, although it took a bit longer to regain one's dignity!
A sheltered lunch-spot.
We had now been walking for about 2 hours, it seemed a good spot for a refreshment.  The bay was sheltered, and the warmth from the sun made one think that winter was coming to an end.
Following a Landrover track
Soon, we were on the move again, as we still had about another 3 miles to cover to the cars.
Taking in the scenery
 Passing a small herd of Belted Galloway cattle, we soon came to the south coast, where a gentle swell was breaking on the rocky beach.
Balsam Bog plants amongst the rocks.
Unfortunately, we didn't see any penguins, but did see lots of cormorants, petrels and ducks.
Cliff-top walk
 However, we could now see a large grey cold front approaching from the west - the forecast snow and hail!
Pleasant camping spot, but Cold Front approaching from the west.
The sunshine was going; the wind was picking up, and discarded layers were being retrieved from rucksacks.  Spring had not yet sprung and Winter was approaching rapidly.
Handy shelter from the sleet.  No more "Mr Blue Sky".
Within about 30 minutes, squalls and hail encouraged us to shelter at a pile of sandbags (purpose - blast shelter?), while the car drivers returned to the start to retrieve the rest of the vehicles.

While we waited, we could watch the large number of Southern Giant Petrels and Turkey Vultures which frequented this spot, as it is where the waste from the nearby abattoir is discarded!

Soon we were back in Stanley, and able to thaw out in a hot bath, while the snow carpeted the town.  My driving lessons were in jeopardy this week!
Another fine dawn.  This at 08:10, so getting later every day!
more soon,

Peter