Bonfire of the Loyal Subjects

News from the Falkland Islands......the remote outpost of Britishness, anchored in the middle of the South Atlantic.  Residents and visitors brave wild weather, banana shortages, and aggro from the neighbour, but sometimes all that is forgotten when we enjoy an event that links us with millions across the globe, and with our ancestors millions of years ago!

A few hours later, the sea was beyond the flagpole!

Along with other parts of the world that used to be coloured pink in Atlases, there were celebrations here to mark the Diamond Jubilee of HM Queen Elizabeth 2.  On Monday, as millions watched Her Majesty light the beacon outside Buckingham Palace, several hundred Falklanders gathered on a beach outside Stanley.

Biggest Beacon in the World?

All weekend, volunteers had collected valuable pallets and stacked them on the beach.  As the day progressed, the pile got higher and the sea came closer!  The full moon may have raised the High Tide mark by a few metres!  The surf was well and truly up, and local residents of the furry kind were enjoying body surfing in the huge waves.  We watched this guy (below) for about 30 minutes, throwing himself onto the rollers.

Relaxed seal surfing in Surf Bay...

Come the appointed hour (6.25, Stanley Time; 22.25 BST), the pyre was lit , and the crowd looked on in wonder.  Would the fire take hold, before the tide came in?

Will the waves put the fire out?

It was a close-run thing, as the crowd was gradually moved higher up the beach to avoid the encroaching sea.  The beer tent was not so lucky, as the waves came under the walls.  Some people had had the sense to wear wellies, and so continued drinking until the bonfire reached its climax.

The sea makes an appearance in the beer tent!

As well as the beer tent, there was a BBQ and hot drinks, plus loud music.  But the star of the show was not Rolf Harris, or Tom Jones, as in London, but the Beacon!

Going up in flames; encroaching waves on right.

Having watched the "bush TV" a few times in Africa, I can understand how this ancient form of heating and lighting has captivated Man down the millennia.  I think there is something that transports us back to those pre-historic days.  Watching the flames devour the wood, and feeling the heat through 5 layers of clothing,  I could imagine staring at a fire at the entrance to our cave, as the whole tribe settled down to chewing the cud after a successful day hunting mammoth....

Fascinating... .. Could our ancestors have watched a fire like this?

Hypnotic - the fire and the waves...

All too soon, the flames began to dwindle, as did the crowd.  (The Jubilee concert from London was about to be shown on Falklands TV!).  But the bonfire builders looked to have planned it to perfection. The incoming tide would gentle extinguish the last embers, thereby saving the the Falklands Fire & Rescue team having to be called out to rescue any penguins that strayed too close.

The flagpole and fire about to be engulfed

The hackle of a Fusilier.

Some of the spectators came from the Mount Pleasant garrison.  I noticed their distinctive hackles, which I thought were traditionally only worn by Scottish Regiments.  But chatting to some of the soldiers, I learned that the Royal Regiment of Fusiliers are allowed to wear the hackles to commemorate the stealing of them from defeated French troops  at the battle of St Lucia in 1778.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Regiment_of_Fusiliers

Something reminded me of that classic film noir, "The Wicker Man"!

The next day, I returned to the beach for some exercise.  If I hadn't have seen it, I would never have guessed that anything had taken place as there no evidence, except some bulldozers tracks.  The wood had had been consumed by the flames, and the ashes washed out to sea.  The tents had gone, hopefully onto a lorry and not out to sea.....

Verdict - Better than TV!  

And no annoying commentators to spoil ones' enjoyment.  Hip, Hip...HOORAY!!

Peter

JubiLiberations! Combined celebrations!

The Liberation Monument

One of the few TV programmes I manage to catch here in Stanley is that lovely dry spoof of the preparations for the London Olympics, "2012", and one episode centred round the realisation by senior planning staff that there was something else happening in London this summer - the Queen's Diamond Jubilee!

So the creative types came up with a name for the combined celebrations - "The Jubilympics!"

No shortage of bunting in Stanley, although too chilly for street parties.

 Well, here in the Falklands, we have a similar dilemma.  Not only is the Queen's Jubilee celebrated by the many loyal subjects, but it is, on June 14th, also the 30th anniversary of the Liberation of the Falklands Islands.

As this might be the last "big" anniversary to be celebrated (at least for some time), there is a lot going on, and many war veterans are re-visiting the islands this year.

 So, this weekend, we had a "Queen Night" , and, in two weeks, a Liberation Ball.

"Red, white and blue...What does it mean to you?"

 I thought the theme of the Queen Night charity ball was "Red, White and Blue" and a celebration of the Monarchy.   However, there was a lot of artistic licence allowed in the costume department, and I soon realised that I may have been one of the few men not wearing fish-net tights, a mini-skirt or a vest and dark moustache!

Patriotic thumbnails

There were prizes for the best-dressed Queen (of either sex); the overall best fancy-dress costume; and the best Freddie Mercury (of Queen fame), which many women competed in with convincing moustaches and biceps!

Boudicea and a Freddie Mercury 

Queen Bee - Best Costume award

Mystery Woman

 The Ball was held in the drill hall of the Falkland Islands Defence Force (FIDF), and a large white camouflage net was hung from the ceiling to create a cosy atmosphere.

Superman, WonderWoman and a more traditional dancer.....

 Once the delicious 3-course meal (courtesy of the Malvina House Hotel) was cleared away, people took to the dance floor to the loud music of a local band...

Some of these costumes will be back on the flagpole tomorrow!

Genuine?

On Monday, as HM Queen is lighting a beacon in London, the most southerly beacon in the world will be lit in the Falklands.  A barbecue is planned for the beach setting of the beacon.   Although there is meant to be a marquee for shelter, I feel it may still be a bit cold.  I introduced some people to Nordic Walking on the beach on Saturday and much of the sand was frozen solid!  The dunes were like ski slopes.

Two Sisters, with snow covering

 So, midwinter approaches here, and the temperatures have plummeted at night.  Many of the town's streets which go up and down the steep hill, are closed off due to ice.  I heard that the gritting lorry had three minor crashes yesterday!

It must be cold if  these guys have coats on!

I shall report back next week on the Beacon and BBQ.  If you are celebrating the Queen's Jubilee, enjoy your street party or whatever. I'm sure our old street in Teddington will be having a huge spread.

If you don't support the UK Monarchy, you could always  find a copy of "Bohemian Rhapsody" and enjoy that  Queen, instead.

Peter

"There's a green one and a pink one...". Little boxes.

Stanley Calling ......... continuing a look round the capital of the Falkland Islands.  We're about as far from the Equator as London, so this week we've have been enjoying fog, sleet and snow flurries, between the bright sunshine.  (Unlike London, we are only 600 miles from Antarctica, so the frozen continent has big effect on weather.  World maps never, or rarely, show the true extent of Antarctica as no-one lives there).

The Pod Gift Shop

Does anyone remember the Pete Seeger song, "Little Boxes"?  I'm sure it'll be on YouTube or whatever, but videos aren't good for my broadband allowance (20Mb per day!), so I'll leave you to find it.  Here are some low-bandwidth lyrics, though.....

"Little boxes on the hillside
Little boxes made of ticky tacky
Little boxes 
Little boxes
Little boxes all the same
There's a green one and a pink one
And a blue one and a yellow one
And they're all made out of ticky tacky
And they all look just the same........"

Streamlined for gales....note modern addition of satellite dish.

Well, that song rang round my head the first time I saw the primary-coloured houses in Stanley.  Except, they don't all look the same.  Quite the opposite - it's unusual to see two similar houses.

Jubilee Villas - Queen Victoria's Jubilee!

Some cottages are built of stone, but most are made of tin, and recently well-insulated kit houses have been springing up to meet the increasing demand.

Neat garden

Next year, another 35 houses will be built by the government to house the growing population of locals and incomers.

Patriotic (or maybe wants jets to know which side he's on)

Traditionally, the plots in Stanley were long and narrow, running up and down the  hillside overlooking the harbour.  Sufficient space was needed to accommodate crops of potatoes and domestic livestock - horses, sheep, chickens - all of which can still be seen in some gardens today.

Long, narrow gardens were a feature.

Some of the gardens have evergreen hedges, to provide protection from the wind.

Summer grazing, and no need for lawn mowers, or manure.

But, with the long-standing pressure for building plots in town, some of the large, narrow plots have been subdivided once or twice. It is rare now that you see the house on the hill with a great sweep of lawn or vegetable garden in front of it.

Matching mustard

Pioneer Row

Some of the earliest houses are to be found in Pioneer Row.  Built for Chelsea Pensioners in the 1840s, they are still popular homes despite their lack of draught-proofing.  They are central, and have buildings on only one side of the road, so offering a panoramic view of the harbour.

Lupins

New kit house

Conservatories are also quite common, and are home to tomato plants in the summer.

Lilac?

The east and west ends of Stanley have been transformed from "green field" sites since 1982, and has probably doubled in size.

New kit houses, at the east end of town.  Could be Reykjavik?

In the original central part of town, the streets are named after pioneers or explorers or sometimes shipwrecks:  Ross, Brisbane, Fitzroy, Villiers, Crozier, Shackleton, Dean, Discovery, Hebe etc.

A rare stone wall at Sulivan House, official home of Government Chief Exec.  North-facing  conservatory!

Whereas, almost all the new streets commemorate the men who helped liberate the Falklands in 1982 - Jeremy Moore Avenue, Ian McKay Close, etc, or are prominent families in the islands - Rowlands Rise, Goss Road, Pitaluga Way, Sulivan Street, and so on. [Moore was Commander of the Land Forces.  McKay was awarded a posthumous VC after attacking a machine gun on Mt Longdon].

Gilbert House, home of Legislative Assembly

Some of the buildings are now recognised as historic and may have a similar designation as in the UK, eg looked after by the National Trust, or Listed status.

old row of cottages  

Thatcher Drive with Education Dept., and tree, behind.

Liberation Memorial sunset. June 14th is Liberation Day.

Bin men cometh before a squall, as the saying goes.....

In our less-colourful suburban street, the wheelie-bins are emptied on Saturdays.  Unfortunately, last Saturday brought a gale and the street's empty bins went walkabout.  Like drunk Guardsmen, they had to be escorted back to their position on the driveway.

A&E, KEMH (King Edward Memorial Hospital)

The big blue roof of the Hospital can be seen for miles, which is quite useful if you are an Air/Sea Rescue helicopter pilot!  Although named after King Edward VII, it was rebuilt in 1987 after a serious fire which destroyed most of its wooden structure, and killed 8 people.  The hospital now has 28 beds, and a wide range of facilities.


However, if any treatment is required which is beyond the scope of the medical services on the Islands, patients are flown to Chile or the UK for further care.  There is a 1% Medical Services Tax, which all employees pay.


I'm not sure how I drifted into the subject of the hospital, but I seem to have been there a couple of times recently.  I even had a home-made curry from the 2 Pharmacists on Saturday, in one of the historic Pioneer Row cottages.  Thanks, guys.


As ever, if anyone has any questions, feel free to post them, or email me.


Hope my UK readers are not wilting under the heat, or the Jubilee celebrations...


Peter

Eating and Drinking in the South Atlantic

So, here we are in the Falkland Islands - 4 months into a 2-year stint.  Enjoying the simple life in Stanley, the capital, with about 3,000 other souls (census results out soon!).  A few friends from the UK have asked what is there in the way of eating and drinking spots?  I don't claim this report to be comprehensive, but in the interests of research, I have crossed the threshold of many of the local establishments....

One thing to know is that all beer on the island is imported in cans or bottles, so most places sell the same brands of drink as the others.  The two supermarkets sell a range of drink which they buy from either Waitrose or Sainsbury's.   However, a local chap has just been granted a licence to sell his own brew (which I tasted at Fitzroy Sheep Show), so that's something many of us are looking forward to.

Otherwise, the beers are usually cans of Guiness, Boddingtons, Tetleys, Spitfire (bottled), Strongbow or Tennents Lager.  The wine tends to be Chilean.  Occasional shortages make for some novel combinations.  In March, all pubs had run out of tonic, so a strange variety of gin-based drinks were invented, until the next shipment arrived from the UK!

Victory Bar.  "Husband Creche"

The Victory.
Central, popular bar, with good kitchen.  I like the Geochron display on the wall, so I can see what time of day it is anywhere in the world.  ("Damn, I was supposed to phone my sister in Perth, but it's just gone midnight there!") .  Has a busy hot food stall in the car park at weekend evenings, when the pub kitchen is closed.

Rose Bar.  Looks can be deceptive.

The Rose Bar
Quieter  (when I've been there), traditional pub, a few streets away from the "main drag", so perhaps not found as easily by visitors..

Deanos, formerly Kelper Stores. Much bigger than it looks.

Deanos Bar.
Popular, central pub with a couple of pool tables.  Entertainment of some kind most evenings.  Several TVs, often showing UK football matches (but with excitable South American Spanish commentaries from ESPN - eg, "Rooo-neeeeeey!!!!  Gooooooooaaaaalll !!!!",   "Tevezzzzzzzzzzzzzz!!!!  GOOOOAAALLLLL!!!!!!!").

Globe Tavern, as seen in Argentine Olympic adverts.

Globe Tavern.
Iconic watering hole beside the Jetty.  Often the first place cruise passengers head for, and some go no further up the hill.  The place to be photographed outside, whether you are a cruise ship passenger or Argentine athlete getting some early-morning propaganda in.  Lots of memorabilia, and pleasant garden. Entertainment.  (Don't ask me "what entertainment?" - I'm in bed by 9pm).

Narrows Bar.  Quite wide, actually!

Narrows Bar.
Large modern, spacious bar.  Good views to the Narrows, the entrance to the harbour, at the east end of town.  Decent food with Chilean influences.  Plenty of room and equipment outside for children....fresh air is good for them....

Stanley Arms.  Reminds me of my time in Bootle.

Stanley Arms.
At the other end of town from the Narrows, in a residential setting, is the Stanley Arms.  Friendly local with pool table.  Regular bingo, music and quiz nights.  Friday is Curry Night!  (A sizeable minority of the population is from St Helena as wages are better in the Falklands.  They bring a different culture and cuisine to the islands, as do the Chilean workforce).

Like the town, The Stanley is named after the 14th Earl of Derby, who was Prime Minister of the UK three times in the 19th century, and who ordered the setting up of the town and harbour in its current location.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Smith-Stanley,_14th_Earl_of_Derby

By a strange coincidence, I used to work in a grim government department, housed in a grim, concrete office block, just off Stanley Road in Bootle, Liverpool.  The Stanley/Derby Earls were big landowners in Liverpool, and are commemorated around the city.  But I can honestly say I am glad I'm not in Bootle now!
I have a few Canadian readers, so they may be interested to know that a relative of the Earl headed to Canada - hence the Stanley Cup!

Malvina House Hotel

Malvina House Hotel.
Prime accommodation in Stanley, with comfortable bar, and, unique in Stanley, has NO pool tables or dart boards!  Good views and good restaurant using local produce imaginatively (the lamb, squid and toothfish are delicious), whenever possible.  Whatever you do, do NOT call it the "Malvinas", as did the BBC people!  You have been warned!  It is named after a former owner.
 Behind the hotel is the Tax Office, where my wife works.

Waterfront Hotel

The Waterfront has a residents' lounge which is open to non-residents eating in the cosy restaurant.  The kitchen is run by the owner, who specialises in Falklands dishes, but with Chilean additions.  As the name suggests, lovely views across the harbour.  There are about 6 comfortable rooms in this boutique hotel.

Some other eateries, less photogenic than the above -


Millers Bar.
On one of the few times I have been here, I had arranged to meet friends.  I noticed two guys playing pool and two barmaids chatting.  I asked for a can of lager, only to be told they weren't open!  Not the sort of welcome I am desperate to receive again!  I believe it is closed and up for sale.


Seamans Mission.
Friendly, economical venue near FIPASS (the Port facility), about 1 mile east of the centre of town.  Home-made food, and library for temporary residents.  There's a pleasant footpath along the coast to it

Michelle's Cafe.
Cafe, run by Michelle; home-cooking, open late.  Probably in the 'greasy spoon' category, and popular as pubs close.

Tasty Treat.
Large selection of meals and baking, with several Chilean specialities

Jacs.
Friendly, popular lunch-time cafe, with large range of home-baking and freshly-made sandwiches. Decent coffee. Closes at 4pm.

Woodbine Cafe.  A Leeds United fan, apparently.

Woodbine Cafe
Traditional and popular chippy. South Atlantic fish like kingclip, hoki, etc.

Shorty's Diner.
Popular, modern American-style diner, with motel attached.  On top of the hill, so great views across town and harbour.  My main issue with Shorty's is the jugs of weak Kona coffee.

The Bread Shop.
Bakery - bread, cakes, rolls, pizzas and 101 things wrapped in pastry.  The bread is good, but I now make my own, which although not quite as good, is very satisfying and always surprising!

I hope this is useful to any potential visitors.  Sorry about the lack of penguins this week, but they must all be out at sea looking for a takeaway.  Here's one that I saw last month......

Peter