"East is east, but West is best......."

[Welcome to my diary of a life in the Falklands.  My wife and I are working here for at least a couple of years.  While here, we are exploring the remote islands and neighbouring South America in our spare time.]

"East is east, but West is best.......", is a phrase we'd heard often here in Stanley (East Falklands), and  we had wanted to visit West Falklands for some time.

A rare road sign

So, last Friday, we set off down the bumpy road out of Stanley, heading for the ferry "port" at the western side of East Falklands.

Rainbow and beef cattle on the savannah.....

As it happened, the road had dried out, but was still badly potholed.  But we allowed 2 hours to cover the 70 miles to Newhaven, and had time to enjoy the rainbows and penguins (who have a residence beside the "port").  I say "port", as it is just a slipway at the end of the road.

Gentoo penguin indifferent to a Snowy Sheathbill.

Cars lashed to the deck.

 The ferry was waiting for us and once we'd reversed onto the deck, we cast off and headed into the sunset!

Go West, young man!

 Shaped like a large landing craft, the Concordia Bay headed the 20 miles across Falklands Sound to West Falklands.  Having a square bow can mean some uncomfortable journeys, but we were lucky on both legs with only a slight swell and moderate breeze.  There's a passenger lounge onboard with an urn and some tea and coffee, but we'd been told that whales and dolphins are often sighted during the crossing.  Unfortunately, we  had to make do with penguins and cormorants, until it got too dark to see anything but the stars.

"Slow! Free range children!"

 We arrived in the dark, and were guided along a dark track with a 6 foot drop into the sea on one side to our self-catering accommodation for the weekend.  Quickly, we settled in and soon a delicious meal of Spaghetti Bolognaise (and bottle of Malbec) was on the table.  Outside, the Milky Way was the main illumination and the twinkling stars promised frost in the morning.....

Store.  Open 4-5pm, Mon., Wed., Friday. (Our place on right).

 Sure enough, there were icy puddles the next day, but it was sunny and still, so we set off to explore our surroundings......

 The settlement of Port Howard reminded me of a remote Scottish village: it had a pier and one road out, and about 12 houses scattered around the head of a sheltered sea loch.  I'm told there is a golf course here, somewhere, but no school or church.

The shearing shed.

 Rolling hills surrounded the loch, and there was hardly a ripple on the water.  Quite a change from the more exposed Stanley.  We could also see the buildings and paraphernalia of the wool industry.  The shearing shed was being cleared of accumulated sheep droppings, which were then being deposited onto the local gardens!

Port Howard.  Looking north from the jetty

We also took a drive out of town, on the only road.  It's hard to convey the feeling of space and emptiness.  In about 30 miles, we saw a few native birds (eg Red-backed hawks and Crested Caracaras), and the familiar sheep and beef cattle, but no people, and only one building!

A rare Crested Caracara, in a rare tree...

The border of two huge farms.

The road was good, although dirt.  I don't think it gets the heavy traffic that roads on the East receive.  It is also drier on the West and so the roads don't often turn into potholed quagmires after some rain.

A good road across the interior of the West.

West Falklands saw very little action in the Falklands War in 1982, although there were Argentine troops stationed there.  However, a number of fighter planes were shot down over it.  This large piece of wreckage (below) from an Argentine jet juts out from the endless rolling grassland, and we were to find other parts of it in the small museum in Port Howard.  I understand the pilot ejected safely, although I have heard differing accounts as to whether he was shot down by a RAF Harrier or by a Surface-to-Air (SAM) missile fired by Argentine troops on the ground!.

(Argentine) Casualty of War 

 More details of C404 can be found if you click on this link >>>
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=at-TsISYZl8C&pg=PT136&lpg=PT136&dq=dagger+c404&source=bl&ots=zxeJDzsax6&sig=YE2rULoD_sMSWff28diWoyHUZEw&hl=en&sa=X&ei=lUfbUZarE7KM0wXs3oGYBA&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAA

Port Howard, looking west.

Back in the settlement, we found the airport - a grass strip on a relatively flat piece of ground.  Flights take about 40 minutes to Stanley, compared to the 4 hours by ferry and road.  But the place was still quiet this weekend  Many of the residents were visiting Stanley for a week ("Farmers' Week") of meetings and updates from the Government and Development Corporation.

Port Howard Airport terminal

 A lot of money is spent on roads, ports, airports and schools despite the relatively low population (less than 500 people) on the West. (About 2,500 people live on the East Falkland).  Freight charges and passenger fares can make a big differences to businesses in remote areas which rely on ferries and flights to bring in tourists and take away produce.

Busy front garden

Farmer's Week also entails a round of social events, including dinners, dances and get-togethers.  It's not often so many people can get to meet up with friends, family and colleagues, in such a short time.

Well-manured and tidy back garden.

And it meant that we could explore nooks and crannies of Port Howard without disturbing too many residents.....

Disused kennels for the many sheepdogs

The local War Museum had a good collection of war memorabilia, including some lethal-looking weapons and mines.  But it also had a few large parts of crashed planes - some too big to fit inside the building!

British-made ejector seats, proving their durability

 Dotted around the walls were notes explaining the amazing circumstances of how these bits and pieces arrived there.  One very poignant article was about Capt Hamilton, MC, who was killed while leading an SAS observation patrol.  A few weeks earlier, Capt Hamilton had been part of the successful SAS raid to destroy Argentine aircraft on Pebble Island  (see here for more details >>  http://www.raf.mod.uk/history/TheSASraidontheairfieldatPebbleIsland.cfm ), but, later, had been observing Argentine troops from the hills overlooking Port Howard.

Reminders of the war.

However, the 4-man patrol was detected and attacked.  Capt Hamilton was wounded in the back and told the rest of the patrol to escape while he held off the enemy.   This he did until he succumbed to his wounds.  The Argentine officers later said that he deserved the Victoria Cross for his extreme efforts.

But, as no British officers had witnessed his bravery, he could "only" receive a posthumous Military Cross!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gavin_Hamilton_(British_Army_officer)

Concordia Bay arriving at Port Howard.

All too soon, we watched the ferry appear through the gap in the hills and enter the loch.  This time, many cars came ashore, taking their owners back to their homes in the West, after a week in Stanley.

Leaving the West

However, we were the only passengers heading East.  About mid-channel, the ship's radio began to pick up BBC radio 5, and we could listen to that historic Andy Murray tennis match at Wimbledon over the tannoy!   (We couldn't get Internet access or a radio signal at Port Howard).  

It seemed a shame to not be able to watch the historic match live on TV, but we realised that, as the Falklands' BBC TV transmission is delayed by 4 hours, we could still see that match "as live" at our B&B in Darwin.

Major junction

So, pausing only for a brief look at the penguin colony beside the ferry port, we headed back up the main road to Darwin, where the comfortable and hospitable Darwin House was serving afternoon tea.  No strawberries were available, but home-made cakes went down a treat while watched the end of a remarkable tennis tournament.

Sunrise over the Wickham Heights, from Darwin

Next morning, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast while the sunrise entertained us with aurora-like changes of colour.  As we were in no rush that day, we decided to walk around the settlement of Darwin.

Darwin settlement

  This was where the first major land  battle had raged during the Falklands War.  A few hundred yards from our B&B, men of the Parachute Regiment had engaged with over 1,000 dug-in Argentine troops for over 18 hours.

The spot where "H" Jones, VC,  was killed.

However, amongst the many casualties was the Para's commanding officer, Lieutenant-Colonel. "H" Jones, VC.  Frustrated at being pinned down for hours, he had decided to lead from the front and take on the entrenched enemy positions.   The battle continued, until the eventual Argentine surrender at neighbouring Goose Green.

2 Para memorial, overlooking Goose Green

As well as the memorial marking where he was killed, there is also another hill-top memorial to the other British casualties of that battle.   About a mile away,  is the Argentine cemetery for their fallen.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Upland Goose

Another reason why the islands seemed quiet recently is that many Islanders are competing in the Island Games in Bermuda!   Participating in events such as swimming, badminton, shooting, football and athletics, representatives of island communities around the world are competing there for the next couple of weeks.

Have a look at the site below if you want more details, or would like to know the result between the Falklands and Greenland at football!

Also taking part are Sark, the Isle of Wight, Menorca, Orkney, Faroe, Aland, and many other places which don't normally feature at the Olympics!

http://www.natwestislandgames2013.com/

Sounds like fun.   I may have to practise my bowling and try and compete in the Commonwealth Games in Glasgow, next year!

Peter

Battle of Mt Longdon. The beginning of the end..

This week in the Falkland Islands, the events of 30 years ago will be vividly remembered.  June 14th is Liberation Day.  The Falklands are very different to what they were like 30 years ago.  To understand why, I think it's important to understnad what happened in 1982.

255 members of the British Task Force lost their lives liberating the Falklands.  3 civilians were killed in Stanley.  649 Argentine lives were lost.

The surrender of Argentine forces was preceded by a series of battles for the high ground overlooking Stanley.  Three battles were fought on the mountains during the night of the 11th June - Mt Challenger, Two Sisters and Mt Longdon.

A few weeks ago, I walked up Mount Longdon, about 3 miles west of Stanley. Like the other hills around the town, it's not that high, or difficult (from the east) - more a ramble than a scramble.  But it was the scene of a bloody battle towards the end of the Falklands War.

105mm rifle.

Getting to the Falkland Islands these days is not that easy - the only options are a twice-weekly flight from RAF Brize Norton, or via Chile once per week (or a cruise ship during the summer).  The nearest big city, Argentina's capital, Buenos Aires, would be a convenient place to fly through from a logistical, but not historical, point of view.

The hill is dotted with crosses.  This gully was heavily defended.

Feelings stemming from the Argentine invasion, and subsequent British retaking, of the islands still run high in Argentina and the Falklands.  The most obvious impact is transport difficulties - people and goods need to take a roundabout route -  and there's a continuing sense of mistrust (at best) between neighbours.

Looking south through the natural fortifications to Mt Tumbledown

 So, that's why I mention the War.  Not to do so would ignore a major aspect of Falklands Islands life.  Whilst I would love to show more picture of penguins, one reason I can't is that I can't access the beaches near Stanley where penguins gather, because they may be mined!  Another unwelcome and lasting reminder of the war.

105mm gun, pointing west.  Two Sisters' summit on horizon. Mt Longdon summit to right.

To recap, Argentine troops invaded in large numbers on April 2nd 1982.  British forces landed at San Carlos on 21st May, at the western coast of East Falklands.  The troops then found that all but one of the Chinook helicopters they had intended using to take them into battle, had been lost when the merchant ship, Atlantic Conveyor, was sunk by Exocets.  12 merchant seaman, who presumably had no say if they went into a war zone or not,  were killed.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Atlantic_Conveyor

There was no  alternative but to walk 50 miles across the trackless terrain in mid-winter, with full packs and equipment.  The 3-day "Yomp" became a iconic symbol of the toughness of the British troops. (Last week, I listened to a ex-company commander, Mike Cole, give a talk on the battle of Two Sisters.  He re-lived the Yomp by walking the full distance again, and sleeping in the hills, to raise funds for a Royal Marine charity.)

War detritus

The bad weather made sleeping rough in flooded foxholes purgatory, and troops suffered badly from Trench Foot for the first time since 1918.   But it also meant that Argentine aircraft could not attack the long lines of walking soldier in the treeless "Camp" (the Falklands name for the countryside).

Whilst the advance troops waited for a second formation to land in the south (this was delayed when ships carrying the Welsh Guards were bombed, with many casualties), patrols were sent out at night to find out enemy troop positions.  Small teams would walk miles in darkness across the boggy landscape, right up to enemy positions and return with this vital intelligence.

Royal Marine Commandos were to attack hills to the south, 3 Para (3rd Battalion, Parachute Regiment) were given Mt Longdon as their objective.

Looking west, where British troops attacked from.  Open ground meant night attacks were the only option.

On the night of the 11th June, 1982, 3 simultaneous attacks on Argentine positions took place. 3 Para's target was Mt Longdon, a rocky outcrop rising about 1,000 from the peat bogs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Mount_Longdon

There are many accounts of the events of that night, but there is no disputing that there was a long, closely-fought, engagement.  British forces fixed bayonets just prior to the attack, and fighting continued throughout the night.

Walking around the summit, there are numerous memorials to fallen comrades.  It is easy to see why it would have been so difficult to winkle out the defending troops, who had had a month to set up their defensive positions.  But the Argentine defenders would also have been debilitated by the cold and poor food.

The remains of a defensive sangar.

In the end, it is difficult to comprehend what happened there that night.  It's a very moving place.

On my way down from the summit, I met another walker on his way up.  He had been there that night, 30 years ago.  This was the first time he'd been back, and he found it a difficult journey on several levels.  For one thing, he had never seen the terrain in daylight.  Immediately after the Argentine forces had been cleared from the hill, their artillery around Stanley zeroed in on their former positions, now occupied by the Paras.  The bombardment was relentless and accurate.  He had fought all night and taken cover all day.

Remains of a heavy machine gun.  The field of fire is huge.

Stone bunker, built around natural feature.

Argentine crosses, with summit cross on skyline.

For the Fallen, Los Caidos.

Tribute from a Para

 "In Memory of all the soldiers who died on this  mountain both British and Argentinian.  May their God watch over them.  May they never be far from our thoughts.  God bless them and their families."

Memorial to Sgt McKay VC, and other paratroopers, who lost their lives here.

Sgt McKay won the last VC of the 20th century.  Pinned down, he attacked a machine-gun bunker with grenades, and was later found dead on the bunker. But the machine-gun had been knocked out, allowing the attack to continue.  You may want to read the Citation - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ian_McKay
His medal is on display at the Imperial War museum, courtesy of Lord Ashcroft.

Some of the many tributes on the hill.

Open countryside in every direction, forcing night battles.

Steel poppies for the fallen.

Memorial to Ian McKay VC.  Yellow ammunition box contains cleaning materials. Summit cross behind.

The local plant, Balsam Bog, acts as a cross holder.

The men (on both sides) who fought on those hills were very young.  Sergeant McKay VC, was 29, and two Paratroopers who died were 17.  Another was killed on his 18th birthday.  I can't remember what I was doing that day, but I wasn't risking my life for my country.

Here is a photo of the hills around Stanley taken this weekend.  Imagine sleeping rough on these hills for a month at this time of year....

Several miles offshore, HMS Glamorgan provided firepower from its guns in support of the night battles.  However, as the battles dragged on, dawn approached and Glamorgan was spotted and hit by an Exocet missile.  The quick reactions of the crew meant the missile hit the ship a glancing blow, and the ship survived, although 13 crew were killed.

As the 11th June became the 12th, the Royal Marines and Paras dug in on the mountain-tops.  They had achieved their objectives.  The Argentine forces still held the three hills closest to Stanley.  But the final phase of the war was imminent.


I find it hard to believe that any lives were worth losing.  An avoidable conflict after a massive failure of diplomacy.  However, the people of the Falklands were, and are, extremely grateful for the sacrifices made.  They will always remember what was done on their behalf, and they will commemorate the British losses every year on Liberation Day.

 "In Memory of all the soldiers who died on this  mountain both British and Argentinian.  May their God watch over them.  May they never be far from our thoughts.  God bless them and their families."
Jimmy O'Connell, ex 3 Para