Liberation Day; Booming Economy; and more Rambling..

[An intermittent and personal report on life in the Falkland Islands...... This week, a stroll in the country, Liberation Day, and a booming economy.......]

Turkey vultures in town

It's now midwinter in the Southern Hemisphere.  It's snowing today, but the good news is that the days will start to get longer.  The horses have been moved to their winter grazing grounds on Stanley Common, and the vultures are moving into town, as food gets scarcer.

Snow Ghost and friends

Stanley Common  is a large open area, near the local airport, and horse-owners can graze their horses there during the winter for a nominal sum.  However, it seems that some oil drums (with oil still in them), have been dumped near the common, and this has leaked.  Investigations and clean-ups are still ongoing, but it shows that managing waste on an island, even one with as much space as this  one, can be problematical.

View across Stanley harbour.  A new port site?

If "ordinary" waste such as plastic bags and sewage are not handled well now, then there could be issues when the oil industry arrives in force with more complex challenges.  However, I suspect the oil industry is used to working in strictly controlled environments.  In fact, I know that otters are thriving around oil installations on Shetland, in the north of Scotland.

Housing boom/

Signs of  a booming economy are beginning to appear in the town of Stanley.  Houses seem to be popping up in every available spot.  "Infilling" the traditional, large gardens is a solution for the lack of space in the centre of town.   However, it is not to everyone's liking, and there is much talk about preserving the Falklands' way of life, as inevitable changes appear on the horizon.

Another sign of a healthy economy -  a recent Government budget announced a 5% pay rise for all Government employees!  And in a recent Penguin News, there were 2 pages advertising various vacancies -

Trainers (for Carpentry, Languages, IT, Hospitality),

Handymen

Legislative Drafter

Regulator

Waitresses/bar staff

Electricians

Storemen

Cleaners

Operations Managers

Nursery Nurses....

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Featureless grasslands need good navigation skills.....

As an antidote to the town, I often try to join walkers in exploring less-visited parts of East Falklands.  These walks are often on some of the huge farms, and prior permission is always sought from the landowner.  One farm I recently visited was 45,000 acres, which turned out to be much the same size as Liechtenstein, or bigger than the Channel Island of Jersey!.

White grass underfoot

So, it usually helps to go with someone with local knowledge or a good map and a GPS!  Much of the landscape can appear featureless, so navigation is often an issue.   However, on this walk we were largely following a river valley.  The main problem was the uneven white grass underfoot.   It's impossible to relax and look around, without risking putting your foot in a hole, or stepping on an ankle-turning tussock.

Cloud cover on the high hills.

Even so, some of us diverted to a ridge with panoramic views, while others stayed on the riverbanks

Whichever route was chosen, it was hard going.  At the end, my pedometer showed 5 miles, while it felt more like 15!  There are no paths to follow, and often it seems as if no-one has ever walked there before.

Nearing the finish.....

However, despite the effort, it was an enjoyable couple of hours, culminating in great sightings of the Variable Hawk.  Several of these beautiful birds were soaring above a cliff on the opposite side of the river.
A Grand Day Out!
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"Eyes.........right"

On June 14th, a large crowd gathered at the Liberation monument in Stanley,  to commemorate those men who gave their lives in liberating the Falklands 31 years ago.  Unlike the same day last year, the weather was benign, and despite the sombre aspects of the service, the sunshine lifted the spirits of the spectators.

A full set......

After the service and march-past by troops of the British Army, Navy, and Air Force, and the Falklands Islands Defence Force, everyone (yes, everyone!) was invited to a reception in the Town Hall.   This enabled locals and visitors to mingle with the troops, past and present, and chat about their experiences over a beer and some nibbles.

Mt William

Afterwards, it seemed a shame to be indoors on such a fine day, and a Public Holiday.  So, my wife and I drove a few miles out of Stanley and explored a hill called Mount Harriet, where there are still a number of graphic reminders of the battle that was fought there.  

An old Argentine machine-gun position, looking towards Mt Tumbledown.

Few of the British troops that liberated the Falklands would have enjoyed this view, as all the fighting was at night, and they were under severe shelling from Argentine guns during the day.  However, because of their actions and sacrifices, we, and others, can enjoy it now....

Peter

Sunset, sunrise and more horses....

The last month has had some great weather - mostly fine, stable and cold.  The main exception being the morning of Liberation Day (14th June) when the assembled troops, bands, Veterans, locals and visitors endured heavy, driven snow.  As usual, the weather was completely different in the afternoon!

Stanley Growers' Union Flag on dawn of Liberation Day

 I've had to scrape ice off the car windscreen most mornings, and on one occasion discovered that the ice wasn't clearing as it was mostly inside the car!

 The skies have been amazing, too.  Stunning dawns and sunsets most days.  And the night skies have delighted anyone who cares to look up.
For more details of what's up there, try here >  http://spaceweather.com/

Dawn, 9am,  28th June

This week has given the opportunity to see Mars (clearly pinkish to the naked eye)  and Saturn in the evening, and Jupiter and Venus shining brightly for an hour or so before Dawn (around 9am).

Venus and Jupiter in pre-dawn sky

 And while casually watching the planets one morning, we spotted the International Space Station, zooming across the sky at 17,000mph....

The start of 30th June

Below are various views of Stanley and environs.  As it is now July, I have a new month's allocation of internet usage and will not be able to use it all, so am loading up many photos this week, while I can!  Most don't need any comment from me.  Enjoy.

Silver lining

Dusk of Liberation Day

Bedroom view - west

Bedroom view - east

Liberation Monument

The Liberation Monument this morning at 8am, with Venus and Jupiter shining bright.

Two Sisters

Icy pond

A dusting of snow on the dunes....

Horses on common, near airport

Typical Falklands potholed road, near Stanley Harbour

Looking for food, but carrots are £1 each!

Stanley Harbour and hills in distance

Two Sisters

Liberation Monument

Lady Elizabeth sunset

The days are getting longer, so hopefully warmer weather is on the way.  We're off soon to warmer places in South America.  Back in August...

Happy Birthday tomorrow, Sophie - don't eat too many cakes!

Peter

Liberation; snow; and Mouse Survey Team wanted..

Well, after the long anticipation, the 30th Liberation Day, June 14th, arrived.  The day that the Falkland Islanders remembered those that died so that they could have their freedom.  255 British servicemen died 30 years ago, and many of their comrades returned this year to join with the Islanders in paying respects and to re-live traumatic times.

Liberty Ball - flags everywhere, even on frocks.

Many events were planned to commemorate and celebrate the 30th Anniversary of the War.  Knowing I was a bit under-dressed at the previous social event - Queen Night - I decided to wear my kilt to the Liberation Ball on the eve of Liberation Day.  Unfortunately, this coincided with a downturn in the weather, and it was a bit chilly around the South Atlantic, I can tell you.

Unexpected change in the weather....

Miss Liberation contestants - winner has patriotic dress.

However, many of the local youngsters had made a big effort, and were impressive in their suits and ball gowns.   There was a contest to see who would be voted "Miss Liberation", so I repaired to the bar in case I confused the judges.  Unlike the dance floor, the bar was absolutely heaving with dignitaries, Veterans and locals.  It seems that because there were under-18s at the Ball, the drink was restricted to a small bar area and couldn't be taken out to the dance hall.  So the choice was - get squashed and inebriated but find a  interesting character to talk to, or watch the alcohol-free ballroom dancing.  Decisions, decisions.....

The band played on through the snow

Perhaps because of my kilt, several people mistakenly thought I'd been with the Scots Guards on Mount Tumbledown during the war, but I had to explain that  I was hiding out in Bootle at that time.  I did chat to a helicopter pilot from the conflict who calmly explained that it was quite "hairy" at times, with troops from both sides firing at aircraft, in case they belonged to the enemy.  Of the three machines and crews in his unit, his team were the only survivors.

Liberation line-up

The next day, the weather took another turn for the worse, and I made some more dressing mistakes.  This time, I left the house without a hat, and soon realised that my mum had been right all those years ago.... Worse was to come as the heavy, wet snow started to stick to my clothes, hair and glasses, and I discovered that my jacket was no longer waterproof.  Still, when I looked around the large crowd, I could see that most of the military and ex-military people were wearing fewer layers than I was, so I decided to stick it out, hoping the snow would ease off.

These guys wore no gloves!

How the bandsmen played their instruments with frozen fingers was beyond me.  But they did, and then they marched past the recently-laid wreaths to waiting buses, which took them to the Government Reception in the Falklands Islands Defence Force Hall, where most of the population, young and old, gathered to thaw out and meet up with neighbours and saviours.

"We will remember them!!"  3 Para Group

  Everyone on the Islands - residents and visitors alike - was invited to the Reception, and I'm sure it would have been well-attended even it hadn't been a free bar! It was a very convivial occasion, with strangers greeting strangers with a handshake and "Happy Liberation Day".  The Veterans were the Guests of Honour, obviously, and many toasts were made to them and their comrades. As it says on many memorials -  "For their tomorrow, we gave our today"........

Liberation Monument

Meanwhile, the sun had come out, and it was a perfect day for kids to sledge down the hilly roads that hadn't been gritted.  There was very little traffic on the roads, as it was a public holiday!

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Good sledging hill, Stanley

Lots of horses moved down from the hills after the snow

There is very little crime on the Falklands, which is just as well, as I don't think I would have had much of an alibi if anything untoward had happened that evening - "Where we you between the hours of 8pm and 11pm on June 14th?".  Well, I remember watching a BBC radio show being broadcast live from the bar in the Malvina House Hotel, and I recall seeing His Excellency The Governor in the Victory Bar some time later, but apart from that, it's all a bit blurred...

Two Sisters, 3 miles away

 Luckily, I was able to work off any excesses with some Nordic Walking on the frozen ground the next day. The clear nights had produced a severe frost, resulting in ice on the inside of the car windscreen, and my trusty water bottle turned into a solid block of ice.  Luckily the beach is normally frost-free.

Resident wildlife

Although I usually have my camera at the ready to capture the local wildlife, I was too slow to capture a wonderful scene.  As our group strode along, there was a line of dorsal fins breaking the surf about 100 yards offshore.  Just as we stopped to watch the dolphins, they turned as if in formation and swam, side by side, straight towards us, catching up and then riding the big rollers that were washing ashore.  Then they turned, and headed out to sea.   It was amazing watching wild animals doing something just for pleasure!

Seal surfing

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On a more mundane level, there was a bumper souvenir issue of Penguin News.   But I was grabbed by the  variety of Vacancies advertised -

Teaching Assistants,
Learning Support Assistants,
Home Help,
Tutor,
Painter/Handyman,
Mechanic,
Aircraft Engineer, and
Mouse Survey Team !

The last position is for a Team Leader and Assistant to work in remote locations and adverse weather.  Assessment of rodent-bait uptake is essential!  (The work is sponsored by the RSPB  (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) to find out how many mice are out there - they devour birds' eggs).

The week ended with the sudden cessation of electricity coursing through the house, as our pre-paid meter ran out of funds.  The meter is fed by cards bought from a local shop, but is inconveniently located in the garage, and I haven't been going in there much recently so had forgotten to check how much was left.

So, just as the England/Sweden match (Euro 2012, for those not aware) was coming to its climatic finish we were plunged  into darkness.  I now realise I should keep spare cards in the house, but even if I had had some, I don't think I would have been venturing outside when it's -5C.  So, head-torch attached, it was off to bed, watch the stars, and await the sunrise  (9am).

Sunrise over a British outpost.

Peter

Evita, Mr Darcy, and the fight for the Falklands.....

As I write, I've just seen on Sky News a British MP ask the Prime Minister why the UK taxpayer is still making loans, via the World Bank, to Argentina!  Yesterday, a Referendum on sovereignty in the Falklands was announced.  The media spotlight is returning to the Falkland Islands for a few days.  Meanwhile, tomorrow is Liberation Day........

Overlooking Stanley Harbour

In my previous post, I went into some detail about the battle for Mt Longdon.  In the following 36 hours, the entrenched paratroopers were to lose another 4 comrades to the incessant and accurate Argentine artillery.  After going into some detail about the Battle for Mt Longdon, I won't subject you to a repeat.  But, for the British Forces, the battles on the 13th/14th June saw a repeat of the successful tactics which had enabled three hills to be captured on the night of the 11th June:  heavy naval artillery fire and close-quarter fighting at night, using highly-trained young soldiers.

In fact, so effective were the British troops, that captured Argentine officers assumed the decisive advantage had been the use of night-vision goggles.  The couldn't believe that the Task Force only had a handful of these goggles and all had been issued to helicopter pilots and none to ground troops!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Mount_Tumbledown

Scots Guards - Killed In Action

 The Battle of Mount Tumbledown, and the impact on one participant - Lt Robert Lawrence - was depicted in the film "Tumbledown", starring a young Colin Firth (completely naked in one scene, if anyone needs an incentive to watch it!).

Memorials on Mt Tumbledown

Abandoned Argentine field kitchen 

 Like many of the surroundings hills, Tumbledown has a low cliff of sheer rock around most of its summit, so the defenders had to be engaged bunker by bunker, rock by rock.

North face showing its defensive properties

 About 900 British troops, comprising mostly Scots Guards, attacked the heavily-fortified hill during the night, simultaneously with attacks on neighbouring mountains.

Remains of defensive stone fortifications (sangars) dot the landscape.

 After 10 hours of bitter, hand-to-hand fighting, the high ground was under British control and the street lights of Stanley could be seen about 3 miles away.  At least 40 combatants lost their lives during the night.

Some troops moved on to the next objective, but already it was becoming obvious there was a general retreat of Argentine troops back into Stanley (where the main body of troops were stationed).  It was now the role of the British commander of land forces, General Jeremy Moore, to ensure the Argentines surrendered quickly and didn't prolong the conflict with street-to-street fighting amongst the residents of Stanley.  He moved into the outskirts of the town, and skilfully secured the surrender that day, the 14th.

Tumbledown, with Mt Longdon about 2 miles to the north.

All that remained to do was to round up, disarm, feed and then repatriate 10,000 Argentine troops; rescue 1,800 Stanley residents trapped in various buildings; detect and defuse 25,000 unmapped mines (work pending); destroy hundred of tons of ammunition and weapons;  repair roads, houses, water supplies, airports, as well as return the victorious troops back to their loved ones as soon as practical.

Tumbledown, this week, from near Stanley.

All in all, a shed-load of work which took years to complete, and some, like the mine clearance, remains deliberately incomplete.  (Several soldiers were injured in the aftermath while trying to clear minefields (with captured Argentine assistance), and the commanding officers felt it was too much of a risk for too little reward.)

However, the political and economic post-war resurgence in the Falklands has left a legacy of good schools and health care;  a network of roads (albeit without tar) connecting remote settlements; an international airport; a world-class fishery; excellent wildlife tourism infrastructure; a large military garrison, and the prospect of an oil industry.

The blot on the horizon of this South Atlantic idyll is the Argentine President's continuing call for the Falkland Islands to be "returned" to Argentina.

No Islander takes her proclamations seriously. (She never gives interviews or debates in Parliament, preferring to issue announcements from the balcony of the Casa Rosada in Buenos Aires, a la Eva Peron (Evita)).

However, her lack of acknowledgement of the status of the Falkland Islanders and the huge sacrifices made by both antagonists,  is a great regret to all who feel that the war should have been an end to the matter.

"Those that cannot remember the past are doomed to repeat it".  Tomorrow, and in the future, the Falklanders will remember the sacrifices made on their behalf.

Wildlife tourism - the future's bright.

Peter
Stanley
13th June, 2012