A Long Walk on Princes Street....in Darwin's and Shackleton's footsteps.

Continuing the tales from the South Atlantic.  October brought gales, fog, snow, penguins, memorable dinners, stunning walking, the return of the tourists, and much more.....!

White Horses, Long Island Farm (courtesy of wife, and landowners)

 Spring has arrived in the South Atlantic.  Lambs are being born, birds are laying eggs, the days are getting longer, penguins, seals and albatrosses are returning to breed, and the weather is gradually improving.

Black-capped night herons nesting

 October - the April of the southern hemisphere - sees winter finally relinquish its grip on the weather, with just a few snow flurries to remind us we are only 600 miles from Antarctica.

HMS Iron Duke visits Stanley

However, the Falklands are the same distance from the Equator as London, so despite the slightly cooler weather, the islands receive plenty of daylight in Summer.  This, and their remoteness, makes them ideal breeding grounds for sea-going birds and mammals of the southern ocean.

One of the first Magellanic penguins to return to their burrow and await their partner.

 Every Spring, thousands of birds, seals, etc return to the place of their birth to continue the cycle.

Outdoor exhibit at the new Museum.

On the human side of life, a new museum has opened its doors just in time for the tourist season. It covers the Natural History of the Falklands, as well as the social history of the people here.

You don't want to get this close to a live Leopard Seal! Note the 3-pronged teeth!

There are excellent exhibits of Victorian-era shops and homes; coverage of the 1982 conflict; modern life, including the Fishing and Oil industries.  There is a room set aside for Antarctic exploration, much of which used the Falklands as a supply point.   A hut, which was used by British explorers  in the 1950s, has been transported to the Museum, and offers a great insight how men survived that harsh climate for months on end.

Ramblers on the ridge.

Just as a Postscript to the Museum, a couple of recent tourists made some very blunt comments in the Visitors Book, suggesting that the Falklands belonged to Argentina.  There was also some anti-British graffiti left around Stanley at the same time, and in the same handwriting!  As these visitors had signed their names, it was quite easy to check their Facebook pages, and see them boasting of their exploits there...

Energy-sapping whitegrass

Meanwhile, the Ramblers group organised a very long and scenic walk in the hills to the west of Stanley.  Unlike most of the hills a few miles to the south, these slopes did not see any fighting or mine-laying, but they had panoramic views that made the effort of ascending them worthwhile.

Mt Vernet summit

On a very cold Sunday, a group of us set out from near Estancia Farm, while another group took some cars to the end of the walk at Long Island Farm, where we would all meet up 4 hours later.

Watching for stragglers

We estimated the walk was about 12kms (8 miles), which may not sound massive, but the ground underfoot had no paths, and was either ankle-twisting swards of white grass, or very tiring boulder fields, known as Stone Runs or "Rivers of Stone", as Charles Darwin described them when visiting on the Beagle's voyage, which would later make him famous.

Stone runs are unique obstacles.

These Stone Rivers are formed by repetitive freezing and thawing over millennia, and are not found anywhere else, I believe.  The one we crossed is also the longest, and known as Princes Street, after the long, broad thoroughfare in Edinburgh.  By coincidence, I was to fly over Princes Street a few weeks later.  More of that flight soon....  A lovely, if tiring, walk!

Princes Street (grey)  from the air.

Also in October, saw the rescue of several oiled King Penguins.  These were being looked after by Falklands Conservation near where we live in Stanley, and volunteers were sought to help with the feeding of the birds.   After a few weeks, the birds are released back into the sea, and hopefully swim back to the beaches before the tourists arrive in numbers!

Feeding time for oiled King Penguins 

 I mentioned at the start that there were some memorable dinners in October.  On Trafalgar Day (October 21), I had the privilege of dining with the Commanding Officer, British Forces, South Atlantic Islands.  He is in charge of all the troops  based in the Falklands in order to defend the islands.  A fascinating evening, but sadly, no photos.

 Like London buses, a second unusual dinner invitation came along that week.  This time as guest of His Excellency, The Governor, who hosted a dinner at Government House.  We had a short tour of the historic building, with its conservatory housing the most southerly grapevine in the world!

Signing the underside of the table is a popular tradition...

But, for some guests, the highlight of the tour was the snooker table on which explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton played whilst trying to organise a rescue for his men stranded on Elephant Island.  A few enthusiastic people felt the need to examine the underside of the table where thousands of visitors, including the Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Andrew and many others,  had left their messages for posterity.

A memorable evening in a memorable week!

Peter

Back "home", and on Weddell Island

[The story so far..... we are halfway through a 4-year stint in Stanley, Falkland Islands, South Atlantic.  My semi-indolent house-husband lifestyle took a turn for the worse in November when I had problems in both retinas and was evacuated to the UK for 2 months.  Many thanks to the RAF, the staff at the local hospital and the people at the Oxford Eye Clinic for saving my sight.  The consultant there happened to be visiting the Falklands in January and said my eyes looked good, with just some "gunk" (his term) in the right eye, which he would happily clean out next time I'm in the UK.....Mmmm, another eye operation?  Let me think about it.

January was a blur.  I was trying to get discharged, and then trying to get on a flight to Stanley.  Not an easy task at short notice. Now I'm back in sunny Stanley, and working 'hard' showing tourists from cruise ships around the town and the penguin colonies. February has seen about 20 large cruise ships visit Stanley.]  

Biscuits in the Horticultural Society show!

First of all, a VERY  BIG "THANK YOU" for all the messages and good wishes that have been coming my way since I had my eye problems.  I have been cheered up tremendously while recovering from the operations.

And a BIG "Sorry!"  for not posting on the blog for a couple of months.  Since returning to the Falklands at the end of January, I've had a few loose ends to finish off.  I also had problems with my neck (brought on, I believe by lying on my face a couple of weeks, and generally not exercising recently).  This has prevented me spending much time at my PC

All made from marzipan - a cake entry at the Horticultural Show.

But with some lovely physiotherapy, again from the local hospital, I am now feeling almost good as new and desperate to assuage the guilt of not keeping in touch with readers.

Local gingerbread house

 Last week, I helped set out entries to the very competitive Horticultural Show, where local gardeners compete to present the best produce.  Many of the flowers and vegetables are grown under glass or in polytunnels, so not very obvious when walking about town.

More flowers than you normally see in months.....

So, it was quite a surprise to see scores of boxes arrive with pristine potatoes and succulent tomatoes.  There was also a home produce section full of chutneys, pickles, home-made gorse wine, cakes, breads and muffins galore.  Home baking is popular here!

Fierce competition in the carrot category

 The other major excitement here has been the ending of the Governor's tour of duty.  Governor Nigel Haywood has been here for over 3 years, and is returning to the UK.

Governor Nigel Haywood handing back his sword at the end of his tour.

There was a parade by the Armed Forces, and, as he is the Queen's representative, a Royal Salute.  This should have been the firing of cannon 17 times, but there seemed to be a problem obtaining the required amount of ammunition.

Smoke from across the harbour. The Governor's "royal salute"

Undeterred, the military minds decided that 17 detonations would be an adequate send-off.  However, for public safety reasons, these were to take place across the harbour.   Eventually, after a long delay (long enough for an announcement to be made informing the crowd that it had been cancelled), the detonations suddenly broke the silence, and their smoke rose like signals.

The crowd cheered and ex-Governor Haywood departed to the airport.
===========================
Weekend on Weddell......................

Weddell Island settlement

The lodge on Weddell Island.

 Recently, we spent a weekend on Weddell Island, in the far south-west of the Falklands archipelago, about an 80-minute flight from Stanley.  Weddell is the third biggest island in the Falklands, after East and West Falklands.

Commerson Dolphins near the shore 

 The couple running the lodge and the 2 self-catering cottages are the only residents.  The island is about the size of Malta (population 400,000)!

Inquisitive Gentoo penguins

 Very conveniently, there is a large penguin colony a few minutes' walk from the settlement.  And dolphins are often seen in the small harbour.

Valentine's Day breakfast!

 But Land Rover tours are also on offer, which means we could explore more of the island and see some of the unique wildlife.  As well as the usual sea lions, dolphins and penguins, there are about 600 sheep, a few wild horses and a reindeer.

Horse and penguins keeping their distance.

 There is also a large population of Patagonian foxes, which were introduced by previous owners.  These take over penguin burrows and apparently live off insects and berries, as well as the occasional penguin chick in the breeding season.

A large population of Patagonian Foxes now live on Weddell

 We were driven around for about 9 hours, and were shocked to discover, when we checked a map later, that we had only seen one small peninsula on this huge island.

Many foxes survive by eating Diddle-Dee berries.

The host couple had previously worked for the RAF in the base at Mount Pleasant on East Falklands, and had obviously fallen in love with the islands.  Their hospitality and food was amongst the best I've experienced here, despite the fresh vegetables not arriving on our plane!

Mrs Sealion

 Our comfortable cottage had a sea view, whilst Mountain View cottage was occupied by a young family.  They had expected to fly back to Stanley on the Sunday, but low cloud prevented the plane landing and despite us hearing the plane flying in circles above our heads, it eventually gave up, and so they were marooned for another night.

Fox on the beach.  Penguin chicks beware.

The next day, the fog persisted, and it looked like we would be stuck on the island with them.   There are worse places to be stuck.

But the skilful pilot found a gap in the clouds and came down to almost sea level for his approach.  Within minutes were flying through the thick fog, until we burst into the sunlight at about 5,000 feet.

Stanley, with jiggers in the harbour, and the new static caravan park in the foreground.  Our house is  near the red roof!

So, once again, thank you for your kind thoughts;  and thanks to the medical skills in Stanley and Oxford.  And not forgetting my brother and his wife, who put up with me for two months.  It couldn't have been easy. And, of course, my wife, who had to cope without me.  :-)  I'm a lucky man.

Peter

PS - The Harvest Festival and Shrove Tuesday are this week!

Marmite Scones for tea; oiled penguins from the sea!

[Continuing an occasional diary of living and working in the Falkland Islands.....]

I don't get many invitations to free food and drink, but then this week 2 arrived for the same evening!  :-(

His Excellency the Governor," requests the pleasure of the company" of my wife and I at an evening reception at Government House!!

What an honour!  We duly donned the glad rags on Wednesday, and strolled up the driveway to the large detached house which doubles as an official residence and an outpost for Foreign Office diplomats.  Inside was a throng of lucky people who had secured the honour of  being selected to this exclusive gathering.  (Only later did we discover that these receptions were held every week, and it's a mystery (to me) as to how people get invited...)

Government House, with internet connection behind.  Sky subscribers?

We mingled with passing dignitaries and yachties, teachers, dentists, military bods, and Falklanders.  We tried the delicious nibbles offered by friendly waitresses - Marmite scones are the house speciality!  But all too soon the bar was closed, and the beautiful people were moving on.  Looking for something a bit more substantial than bite-sized Marmite scones, we recalled an oil company had invited everyone (and I mean, everyone) to a presentation at the Narrows Bar, and offered free food and drink to attendees!

Meadowlark admiring our collection of dandelions.....

Wishing to learn more about the socio-economic impact of the oil industry on a tiny, remote community, (and being quite peckish), we headed to the far end of town...  The Narrows Bar is actually quite wide and long, but it faces the Narrows, the entrance to the harbour.  Sadly, though, we weren't alone in wanting to know more about the socio-economic impact of the oil industry on a tiny, remote community, and we found only a few curled sandwiches and cold pizza segments were left from the massive buffet.  :-(

Visiting yacht - Icebird.

There have a been a lot of newcomers this week.  The yacht, Icebird, moored in Stanley prior to sailing through Antarctic waters.  It has some unusual features, including heated towel rails and airconditioning!  So, if you want to visit Antarctica in a small boat, but like your creature comforts, this could be for you!
Icebird information

View from the Waterfront cafe

Also new in Stanley is the Kitchen Cafe of the Waterfront Hotel.   Not only does it have the best views in town, but some of the best savoury and sweet dishes.  Old favourites are given a new twist, so "braised duck pie" for example.  Lots of sweet and sticky things too, as you might expect.  But also many healthy salads, juices, and soups.

A small selection of cakes at the Waterfront

As I'm in training for the Stanley Triathlon (don't laugh - I'm roping in others to do the swimming and running), I avoided the sweet creations.  However, I heard on the (British Forces) radio about another tough challenge - the Ironman....   Given my experience of ironing, maybe I should give it a go?

The Mechanical Engineering Section at Camp Bastion undertook an Iron Man Challenge at the weekend. This 24hr charity challenge was raising money for 2 charities, SSAFA and Combat Stress. It was though, an Iron Man Challenge with a difference, as a team of 6 topped up the water levels, plugged in their irons, and once up to temperature, set about ironing countless items of kit. Neil Skinner spoke with one of the ‘Ironeers’, Cpl Al Marriott and event co-organiser, Sgt Lee Hind.

http://www.bfbs.com/radio/article/mes-iron-man-challenge

Some very worthy charities there, if you wish to support them.....

Another new visitor to Stanley was a rescued, oily Rockhopper penguin, Captain Bleakey.  He was found on Bleaker Island and brought in to Falklands Conservation's de-oiling facility.

After about 10 days of been washed and hand-fed a diet of succulent squid, he is ready to fly south to re-join his friends.  (Penguins cost £1 on local flights).

For more information of the work that Falklands Conservation does have a look at their website or their Facebook page. ( I'm having a problem linking to them, but it should be easy to find.)

Capn Bleakey enjoying his daily squid...

An article in the the Guardian (for which, many thanks to my kind friends who presented me with a Kindle so that I can download a daily paper!) caught my eye last week.  Six penguins in London Zoo died of malaria!  Maybe they should be left in their natural habitat?

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2012/oct/10/six-penguins-malaria-london-zoo

Yet another batch of  newly-arrived creatures were the Magellanic or Jackass penguins.  Back from their winter feeding, and now cleaning out their burrows in preparation for raising a new family.

Magellanic penguin in his burrow

This was the view from that burrow!  Not bad, eh?

Lady Liz, Hercules and kite-surfers

We've managed to climb a few more hills.  Mount Harriet is about 5 miles west of Stanley, and is a steep climb of about 1,000 feet.  We were grateful for the added help from our Nordic Walking poles.  On the 11th June, 1982, Marines from 45 Commando (after walking 7 miles in darkness, through minefields) struggled to gain 600 metres in 6 hours, against dug-in Argentine defenders.  2 British, and 18 Argentine, troops were killed that night.  300 were captured.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Mount_Harriet

Ascending Mt Harriet from south

We could clearly see Stanley from the summit, but the British forces had to fight for 4 more days, over several more hills, before they could reach the town and its population.

Looking east from Mt Harriet.  Stanley in distance

The memorial cairn had an ammunition box with mementoes and commendations from comrades.  The views  stretched for over 30 miles.

Convoy of Rapier Missile launchers surround our car...

On returning to our car, we found the car park occupied by a convoy of heavy military vehicles, on exercise. The Argentine government has been complaining loudly about these exercises, but the locals here still have vivid memories of the last military intervention from Argentina, and are very happy to see British troops and equipment around the islands.

Peter

"Happy Birthday, Your Majesty!"

A very bright and cold day dawned on Saturday.   As you will no doubt know, it was HM Queen's birthday, and like loyal subjects everywhere, we were heading off to the celebrations....

First frost of the year

Walking down the hill, we could see HMS Clyde in the harbour, bedecked with bunting. As we approached Victory Green, the crowd grew as we waited for the arrival of the Governor and the military commanders.

Victory Green, with former Upland Goose hotel behind

The green is about 500 yards by 50 yards, lying between the sea, and the main road along the front of Stanley.  It's usually empty, but for some ceremonial cannon, a mast from SS Great Britain (which lay in the harbour for decades), and dozens of Upland Geese enjoying the high-quality grass and the tranquility.  

HMS Clyde and spectators

At one end of the green are a couple of good shops and the West Store, which stocks mostly Waitrose products.  Facing the Green, are Stanley House, a boarding facility for children from Camp attending school in Stanley; the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) office; the former Upland Goose Hotel; the Police Station (and prison!).  At the west end of the Green, on the shore side, is another great gift shop; the Bank; Town Hall; and Post Office.  Downtown!    

Geese enjoying the quiet.....

Around Stanley House and the BAS office is probably the highest concentration of trees on East Falkland.

Vultures - do they know something?

Punctually, His Excellency, the Governor, arrives in a shiny Range Rover.  (By the way, he doesn't govern! He is the Queen's representative.  A Foreign Office diplomat who works closely with the Falklands Islands government on policy matters.  The UK is responsible for the Falklands' Defence and Foreign Policy.  Everything else is run by the Falklanders themselves.)

Accompanied by military commanders from the British Forces, South Atlantic Islands  (BFSAI), he takes the salute as Flags are raised and lowered.  The guard of honour - made up of members of the Falklands Islands Defence Force and counterparts from BFSAI - is inspected.  All seems in order.

Inspecting the troops.

Feathers fly

I've heard gun salutes in London a couple of times, but they were probably a few miles away from me - perhaps in Hyde Park.  You would notice  them, and think "What's that?  Oh, it's the Queen's Birthday", and get on with your sight-seeing.  It was less intrusive than a car horn warning you not to step off the kerb.

"KA-BOOM!"

Not in Stanley.  Not when the guns are 20 yards away.  I heard the first command "Fire!", and that was about the last words I heard for about 15 minutes... The geese got the fright of their lives and flew off cackling for all they were worth.   20 more explosions followed, echoing off the hills, and filling the green with smoke.

RAF and Royal Navy make an appearance

Eventually, the guns fell silent.  Someone, I think it may have been the Governor, suggested "3 cheers for Her Majesty...Hip, hip...".   The guard of honour sloped arms and marched off.  The Governor's entourage made their way back to Government House for a reception, and some of us wandered around waiting for the geese, and our hearing, to return.....

Job done

As we were dispersing, we bumped into a couple of ladies we'd met on Sea Lion Island in February.

http://peterspenguinpost.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/sea-lion-island-where-giants-collide.html

Ashford Spinning Wheel

One of them invited us into her cottage overlooking Victory Green.  It was formerly part of the Upland Goose Hotel, which was the watering hole for senior Argentine officers in 1982, and, subsequently, members of the British press like Max Hastings.  The historic building has recently been converted into a row of cottages, keeping this part of town alive and attractive, although  there is still the occasional knock on the door from a visitor looking for the Upland Goose bar!

Warship in the harbour; Upland Geese on the Green

Our hostess was a retired travelling teacher.  On the sparsely-populated West Falklands, farms are so remote, primary schools are not viable, so teachers moved every few weeks from family to family.  Face-to-face lessons are supplemented by radio, and now Internet, teaching from the school in Stanley.

As she produced much-needed hot coffee and home baking, we couldn't help admire the many examples of her other skills in profusion around the house.  As winter was approaching, the spinning wheel was being brought out for the long, dark nights.  Crocheting, cross-stitching, felting, patchworking, knitting, weaving, basket-making, tapestry,embroidery and more was also in evidence.

There's quite a thriving craft "industry" in the Falklands, although it's definitely at the cottage level.  Cruise ship passengers usually snap up the high-quality, stylish  products, but I feel it could also benefit from a high-profile "Falkland Islands" brand - such as Fair Isle jumpers enjoy.  

Some reviews of shopping opportunities can be found here -
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/South_America/Falkland_Islands/Shopping-Falkland_Islands-TG-C-1.html

As I write, on St Georges Day, it is a Bank Holiday (for the Queen's Birthday) on the Falklands.  Here's hoping the traffic isn't too bad.

The Queen is 86 years old.  Who can remember another British Monarch?  Not many of us.  I wonder if the next monarch will get the crowds out in far-flung corners of the globe?

Happy St Georges Day to my English friends!

Peter
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